I am trying to find impressive words in the Greek vocabulary to describe the extravaganza of Vikos. In vain. No word can convey the awe we feel in front of this creation of nature. Gorge, dizzying, abysmal, chaotic. Only climbers, eagles or wildebeests can feel comfortable at the sight of its funnel. All the rest, once they are on the edge of its “balconies”, they back up. But what is the Vikos Gorge?
THE GEOLOGICAL IDENTITY AND CHARACTERISTICS OF VIKOS
A ravine is “a giant break in the continuity of the land, caused by tectonic causes, which was then opened up by the action of water and winds” (1). The ground interrupted by the action of earthquakes is of course N. Pindos and, more specifically, the southwestern terminations of Tymfi and the northeastern terminations of Stouros.
Between the steep slopes of these two mountain ranges, the gorge of Vikos has been formed. Its beginning is located just west of the village of Kipi in Central Zagori and its end in West Zagori, between Papigo and Vikos. After 15 years the memories of the long trail, sometimes smooth and sometimes rough, remain vivid.
Giannis Papaioannou says: “The famous Gorge of Vikos is completely untouched by the progress of civilization, since it is very difficult for anyone to pass through the unique mule track today. Only those whose ‘guts’ are up to it“. (2)
By Presidential Decree 213 of 1973, the wider area of Vikos-Aoos, covering an area of 126,000 acres, was declared a National Park.
However, 100 years ago, already in 1870, Ioannis Lambridis mentioned about Vikos: “Vikos is called a gulf of sightseeing, through which the eponymous river passes, lying on the Zagorian mountain and having a length of 4 hours and a depth of 500 fathoms… The head of the one looking from the top of this amazing abyss is darkened, when even stones, if they roll, fall noisily from the heights! Worthy of wonder is how this solemn chasm escaped the attention of the ancient historians of Epirus.” (3)
The fauna of Vikos includes wolves, foxes and, in smaller numbers, wild boars and bears. In the past there were also many wild goats. In recent years their numbers have fallen dramatically.
The gorge is also famous for the variety of flora. The bed is dominated by plane and willow trees, while above it there are vines, holm oaks, holly and ferns, cedars, maples, firs and pines. However, the great fame of Vikos is due to the variety of its herbs. These were used in the past by the empirical doctors of Zagori, the legendary “Vikogiatroi” (“Doctors of Vikos”). Let’s see how Lambridis describes them:
“A rewarding profession, but not praiseworthy at all, which many Zagorians have been practicing, is that of the empirical doctor… They have been practicing their profession according to some traditions since 1670 and they are called ‘Vikogiatroi’ from the ravine of Zagori. They have a language of their own, unintelligible to others, a kind of Coracist language. And companies of such savages go to the inner parts of Bulgaria and Thrace, and promising everything, they are the victims of no small reproach of Zagori, because they are trying to dissolve cooks, exorcise demons and predict the future!” (4)
A characteristic of Vikos, truly unique, is the numerous viewpoints, the wondrous “balconies” of the gorge. Some are easily accessible, others require more effort or a local guide. In this original itinerary, we aim to present you for the first time in a single article, all the most important balconies of the canyon.
MONODENDRI
The Balcony of Agia Paraskevi
The initiation into the sanctuary of Vikos starts from the famous Monodendri and the spectacular balcony of Ag. Paraskevi. Home of the national benefactors Rizarides, Monodendri was once the “Ano Mahalas” of Vitsa.
It has already become one of the most popular destinations of Zagori, starting point to the historic, built on the edge of the abyss, Monastery of Ag. Paraskevi.
From the square with the imposing building of the Rizareio Handicraft Centre of Monodendri begins the cobbled pedestrian street towards Ag. Paraskevi.
It’s 600 meters. It starts at an altitude of 1,010 metres and, in 8-10 minutes, ends outside the monastery at an altitude of 965 metres. A paved threshing floor with a diameter of more than 13 metres welcomes you in the courtyard! From here we have a first impression of the view of the gorge. Which, of course, becomes much more impressive as we cross the cobbled walkway next to the temple and reach the small balcony above the cliff.
The monastery was built in 1412 by Michael Boevoda. Many frescoes survive in the church in good state of preservation. Our visual contact with the Vico, however, is not yet complete. From the site of the monastery we climb a few steps, between ruined cells, and continue along a paved path. Lambridis mentions about it:
“Before the church, we find an atrapon, with which we find within the rocks the spitakia (little houses) in which the three families from the Mahalades fled during the Albanian raids“.
In a minute we arrive at the “Balcony of Vertigo“. It’s a “natural platform” at the foot of the huge rock wall. Two meters after the chaos, the absolute vertigo, which becomes incomparably greater if we continue along the narrow path carved into the vertical rock. It’s an abysmal semi-circular course of 250 metres or so, ending on the opposite vertical slope after a bridge, old buildings and a cave. On 26 March the snow on the shady path is icy. So we do not dare to repeat the venture as we did 20 years ago.
View Point “Oxia”
An asphalt road leads us about 5 km after Monodendri to Oxia. It is the elongated plateau, with an average altitude of 1,250 meters, made famous because of the impressive formations of slate slices, which rise like a “stone forest” among the natural beech forest.
More famous, however, is the “Balcony of Oxia”. From the parking lot, we descend the modern cobblestone path, which lacks the artistry of the old Zagorian ones. Three minutes later we reach the edge of the abyss.
Leaning against the semicircular stone parapet, we gaze from an altitude of 1,250 metres at the chaotic depths of the gorge, at least 800 metres lower. The muffled sound of the flow of the Vikos River reaches our ears clearly. Opposite us, over the gap of Vikos, beckons another famous balcony, the famous “Beloi”, which takes the baton of awe and admiration.
VRADETO
The Balcony of Beloi
With an altitude of 1,340 metres, Vradeto is the highest settlement of Zagori. According to Lambridis, “this highest village, as from its position it dominates all of Zagori, is situated on a plateau. It has an extensive horizon, vast landscapes, rugged mountains…‘. “And the view of Vikos is amazing“, we would add. Let’s discover it from the balcony of Beloi.
900 meters of dirt road from the entrance of the village leads us to the beginning of the path. We start from an altitude of 1,365 metres in a W-NW direction.
We go out on the opposite slope. An idyllic landscape of yellow crocuses, flowering vines, dried ferns and pastures. The path is clear and the slopes are gentle.
We cross a neck with an altitude of 1,405 metres. Above a slope with cedars. Yellow sign: “Beloi 5′“. We encounter a final yellow sign, a crude, modern cobbled road and then a wooden sign with the word “Beloi”. We pass through a narrow natural gateway between rocks, and soon the Beloi “box” is in front of us. The altitude is 1,385 metres and the time from the trailhead is 22′.
We touch the stone-built, semicircular parapet, like earlier on the one in Oxia. We let our gaze wander across the chasm of the canyon. Across the way we can make out the asphalt road of Oxi. At the end of the funnel we can see some houses of Vikos and in the distance some houses of Old Klidonia. The distant horizon ends at the snowy mass of Nemertsika.
Very close to our right are two abyssal gullies. The second is that of Mega Lakkos. We duck our heads over the parapet. In the bottomless depths is the bed of the mountainous Vikos. Beloi gives us a thrilling immediacy of the wild grandeur of the canyon.
VIKOS
The Balconies of Rachi and Gyftokoukoulo
The settlement of Vikos is in itself the Balcony of the Gorge. It does, however, have two special viewpoints at respective ends of the village. The first is “Rachi”. We drive there in 2 minutes on a wide uphill cobblestone road from the entrance to the village. Here there is a superbly reconstructed stone threshing floor, and a wooden gazebo with views across the SE funnel of the gorge to the Beloi highlands. High to the E, above the dip of the canyon, rises the staggering rocky mass of Guvostitsa. Behind and to the left, the vertical Towers of Astraka lance the sky.
–But there is another balcony of Vikos, less well known. It is that of “Gyftokoukoulo”, at the northern end of the village. It was named so because there used to be a few gypsy-like huts of smiths, explains teacher Kostas Ioannidis, a deep connoisseur of Zagori.
His fine shop, a few dozen meters before Rachi, contains an excellent variety of authentic Zagori souvenirs, such as sweets, tsipouro and liqueur, trahanades and noodles, herbs of Vikos, handmade wooden carvings and many more souvenirs and utilitarian things that remind us of Zagori.
To get to “Gyftokoukoulo”, we cross the square in a northeastern direction, enter a narrow alley between low houses and in a minute we arrive in front of a large grassy threshing floor. 10 metres further on, the vertical cliff disappears below. Fortunately the spot is protected by a natural parapet, a few rocks, standing on the edge, as if planted in the earth.
In the last light of the evening we relax drinking coffee with Giannis Dinoulis, in the courtyard of the hotel “VIKOS”, at the entrance of the village. At some point Giannis enters. He returns holding the 3rd issue of our magazine, Elliniko Panorama, with the legendary cover of Olympus. I had given it to him with a signature in July of 1996!
MEGALO (BIG) PAPIGO
800 meters before the parking area of Papigo, we meet a dirt road on the right. A sign informs us that 450 metres further on is the viewpoint of Vikos.
We take the dirt road and very soon we meet a signpost and a path. The place is overgrown with low cedars and holly trees. We emerge into a grassy clearing, surrounded by dense holly bushes. There is no signposting, however, crossing the upper part of the clearing for about 60 metres (heading S-SW 210o), we find the narrow path again.
In 3 minutes the forest tunnel reaches its end. The horizon opens wide, we are on a small, unadorned balcony with a view of all the celebrities of the place. And all it takes is a slight deviation from the road, a short and very pleasant walk.
VIEWPOINTS WITH A DIFFICULT ACCESS
Kapesovo
We have so far described 5 viewpoints with easy access for all. There are, however, some remote spots, with a demanding route and signposting not always completely obvious. Their approach requires a good knowledge of the area and, most likely, the accompaniment of a local. The “conquest” of such a “recalcitrant” balcony is the greatest reward for a true hiking and touring enthusiast.
So let’s start this second section with our first destination being the viewpoint from Graditsa (or Gradista), the homonymous mountain above Kapesovo. According to Lambridis, this rugged and stony township is one of the best.
Graditsa
Towards this mountain we are directed by the nice information sign and the markings in the upper square of Kapesovo behind the church of The Assumption of the Virgin Mary. We are impressed by the reported march time: 2.45′. We consider it exaggerated for the route we already know from 2002.(5) It remains to be seen.
14:20′. We depart from an altitude of 1,145 meters. The path is very steep, crossing to the north through the last houses of the village.
14:30′. We arrive at the chapel of the Taxiarches, at an altitude of 1,210 metres. Built in 1770, the chapel gives us a perfect view of Kapesovo from its strategic point. 5 minutes later we reach the highest point of Graditsa, the concrete pillar at an altitude of 1,245 metres. We have a stunning view towards Vradeto on the opposite slope of the awesome gorge of Messaria. We follow the ridge with dense markers and heading southwest; cedar, large junipers and impressive century-old oaks. The trail is restful and pleasant, sage scented at every step.
14:45′. Monodendri and Vitsa are revealed. We encounter a long wall with good dry stone. We enter a bark forest, with an excellently marked and cleared path. When, 8 years ago, we first encountered Graditsa, we wrote about it: ‘In most places the forest is not unlike a jungle. Spindly holly, cedar, oak and gorse are crowded together…“. Many things have changed for the better since then. Some people have taken a serious interest in their place.(6)
15:00′. We encounter two signs. The one on the right leads to “THEA VIKOU” (“View of Vikos”) and the one on the left leads to “KAPESOVO”. A few minutes later we pass by the “PELASGIKA WALLS”, a curated dry stone wall with slabs, which survives up to 1.5 meters high and about 70 cm wide.
15:15′. Exactly 55′ after our departure we finish at the edge of the cliff. We find ourselves on a spacious balcony, paved with flat slabs of limestone, laid with great care by nature. We face the Monastery of St. Paraskevi, on the edge of its chaotic cliff. This is the only point from which one can have a distant view of the monastery. We still gaze at Vitsa, Monodendri and Oxia, the ground plan of the Vikos river flow and the gorge, in the initial stages of its formation, which tries to gain the interest and admiration of the visitor. On the horizon rise Mitsikeli and Peristeri. The balcony of Graditsa may not be comparable to the chaotic feeling of Beloi or Oxia, but it is more human-friendly and extremely idyllic. It also has the added advantage of being safe, pleasant and not particularly tiring to access, for the whole family.
We need just 35′ to get back to the car. With the 55′ of transit the total time does not, at a normal pace, exceed 1 hour and 30 minutes.
Kastri: A “Box” for demanding people
-When do you want to start?
-Come right away, teacher.
-After all those hours behind the wheel? Let it be… as you wish.
In the beautiful settlement of Vikos again. Two yellow signs at the entrance of the village indicate the path to Kastri and Elafotopos. The times they indicate are very tempting: 1 hour to Kastri, 1:45′ to Elafotopos. Just a simple rest, that is. But was it really like that?
12:35′. We take one last look at the hostile mass above our heads and start from an altitude of 740 meters.
12:40′. Cement water tank. Trail is dirt, uphill and straightforward. Further up it becomes rough and rocky with sparingly marked.
12:50′. Small loft, the “Messia Skala”, at an alt. 840m. A few breaths and we continue.
13:00′. Characteristic neck at altitude. 900m, with the iconostasis of Agios Nikolaos of “Arabna“. With Slavic origin of the word, it means at the foot of the mountain. Already to the S-SE we are in awe of the vertical hill of Kastri.
We continue on a dirt path. Purnaria, cedars, cedars, gavros, maples and “junipers”, the well-known cedar trees or “murgina“, as the teacher calls them. In the lily paddocks chickweed and lentils were once grown a little wheat and fodder, rowan and oats. The marking here should be more obvious.
13:30′. Across the road, steep cliffs and the caves of Anilio, a refuge for the goats. We enter a forest of black bark beetles. Trail winding, uphill continuous.
14:30′. We meet a fork with a signpost to Elafotopos, at an altitude of 1,275m. We have been walking for 2 hours already and of course we have not reached Elafotopos, nor Kastri. The reliability of the signs is falling apart. In direction N we cross a sweet ridge with lush grass and countless flowers. It’s the summer pastures of Vikos. There’s a threshing floor with large slabs of limestone. The gorge looms low, ever more spectacular. At the end of the ridge, the lonely hill of Kastri already rises.
15:05′. At 2:30′ exactly we climb the hill passing through a natural rocky gateway. The place is rough but pretty with rudimentary traces of an old wall. On the altimeter I see altitude. 1,280 metres, an altitude difference of 540m. from Vikos. The floor plan in the canyon is unique. Equally stunning are the views of the adjacent Stouros massif, the opposite huge rocks of Guvostitsa, Megalo and Mikro Papigo with the legendary hairpin bends of the road, the settlements of Old Klidonia, Ag. Minas and Aristi, the half-snow-covered -even- Nemertsika and further back to Albania.
Kostas Ioannidis, our beloved “teacher”, offers us an apple and an orange. A cool breeze brings to our ears the echo of Voidomatis.
–We’ll come back a little unorthodoxly, says Kostas. From the cliff, straight to the village.
We look at him in wonder. The cliff seems almost impassable.
–Don’t be shaded, he reassures us. We used to go up to Kastri from here.
16:00′. The descent begins. Which proves to be difficult, arduous and – for the uninitiated – dangerous. Steep slopes, sharp limestones, sharp limestone, thorny purples and cedars, rocks that need to be broken down. This is the identity of the return route. Kostas, however, continues light and undaunted, conveying his confidence.
16:30′. Tsiouka’s Ridge. For the first time the village appears low.
17:00′. We finally reach the first meadows, the trail is close. But our joy doesn’t last long. Kostas directs us again to the edge of the cliff, to the “Chteni” location, another stunning balcony in the canyon. We keep going downhill. We suddenly emerge above the concrete reservoir. It is already 17:45.
–We’re there now, I say to Anna, relieved.
-Won’t we go to the “Grenisto“?
-And what is it, Kostas, the Grenisto?
-A balcony I’d be sorry not to show you.
A narrow path, closed in many places by holly and cedar trees, ends in less than 5 minutes at the edge of the cliff, a short distance from the village. We squeeze in next to each other, and gaze – calmly now – at a terrific view of the Monastery of the Assumption, the flow of Voidomatis and all the surrounding famous cliffs.
Evening hours at the small hotel “VIKOS”, by Giannis Dinoulis. We gaze in awe and with a lot of pride at the awesome cliff of Kastri hill. We are lulled to sleep by the nightingale concerts.
SEEKING THE BALCONY OF MEGA LAKKOS
The panoramic photo on the internet depicted Vikos amazingly. We found the Dutch photographer and contacted him. The rest was easy. Or at least, we thought so. So the photo had been taken from some point near the Mega Lakkos gorge. Well, as big as the Lakkos was, it wasn’t nearly as big as Vikos. With a little patience we could find the spot. But first we had to find Charitakis Papaioannou, a biologist, photographer and writer, with many years of service in the management and promotion of the natural environment of the Vikos-Aoos National Park.
We meet Charitakis at the entrance of Kapesovo. We take the ascents to Vradeto. 4.8km later, we enter a dirt road on the right. On 23 April there are still large concentrations of snow. So large, that it prevents us from continuing. We are in the highlands of Avgerino 2.4km from the tarmac, at an altitude of 1,720 metres.
We are heading north-northwest towards Mega Lakkos. We cross steep slopes with icy snow, more than half a meter deep. Then we continue on a vast ridge of grey limestone, with deep cracks and weathering from the ice age. A unique landscape, we have not encountered anything like it in Greece.
We reach the edge of the spine. Below is the beginning of the mouth of the Mega Lakkos, with walls even thinner compared to the huge ones of the continuation. We marvel at the unique majesty of the successive peaks of Tymfi, the alternations of leaden clouds with grey limestone and white surfaces of snow. Later we attempt a southwestward march over the funnel of Mega Lakkos. Landscapes incredible, awesome, we walk for almost 5 hours but do not locate what we are looking for.
In the evening we arrive at Papigo, the ancestral home of Charitakis, an amazing house with a history of at least 300 years. Excellently restored, the house can already accommodate in 5 rooms tourists and nature lovers. We are welcomed by Charitaki’s father, Mr. Giannis Papaioannou, one of the most important personalities of Papigo, an excellent historian and writer. But above all a wonderful man. He lights the heavy cast-iron wood stove with a torch, prepares us a drink of fragrant mint from his yard. The hours roll on wonderfully. When, late at night we retire, all we hear are the divine vocal inventions of the nightingales…
KOKKINO LITHARI (RED ROCK): The Box of Papigo
It’s dawn on a dark day with chill and rain. Low clouds and fog obliterate every part of the canyon from our field of vision. Our disappointment is indescribable. We have already begun to contemplate our departure when, quite unexpectedly, the fog dissipates and the rain stops.
-The sun is about to come out, says Mr. Giannis. Get ready. All will be well.
In a few minutes the huge grey towers of Guvostitsa and Astraka will appear in front of us again. The only colour exception among them is the “Kokkino Lithari“, the formidable vertical wall, endowed by nature with such a special colouring.
Very quickly we reach Mikro Papigo in front of the amazing church of Taxiarchis with the rare century-old maple and plane trees.
11:00′. We start from the church (altitude 955m.). We cross the cobbled streets of the village, leave the hiking trail to Drakolimni and Gamila on our left, drink mountain water from the covered fountains and enter the dirt path. Hazelnut trees, holly, oaks, oaks, gavros and cedars, covered iconostasis of St. Charalambos, with a path to Vikos. After the rain the dewdrops shimmer on the leaves of the trees. The path is always immaculate with smooth slopes. Large limestone caves, a refuge for shepherds and animals, loom low.
11:40′. At a leisurely, enjoyable pace we arrive at the stone iconostasis of Ag. Georgios (alt. 1,060m.). It is a first viewpoint or even a finish line for those who, for various reasons, do not wish to continue. To the S we face Kokkino Lithari and low down the settlement of Vikos. A few minutes later, a small section of the Voidomatis is revealed, as it flows foamy and bubbling between the last and narrowest parts of the great gorge.
12:00′. We cross the narrow, exposed trail at the roots of Kokkino Lithari. It is truly awe-inspiring to turn our gaze to the vertical majesty of this unique crag.
12:10′. The march ends at the iconostasis of Panagia, at an altitude of 12:12.
Mr. Giannis is sitting on a stone terrace. For a while he gazes silently at the gorge. Then he takes out his notepad and begins to write. It’s been many years since he came to Kokkino Lithari. Almost three decades. Today his memories come alive again. We have every reason to be glad to have him with us.
TO MEGA LAKKOS ONCE MORE
–Is there time for a return to Mega Lakkos?, Charitakis asks.
–Of course, we reply.
So, to Vradeto again. It’s nowhere near Papigo. And there’s no shortage of twists and turns either. Fortunately, we’ve gotten used to them these days. They’ve almost become indispensable.
15:50′. We are 900 meters from Vradeto, at the beginning of the path to Beloi. From an altitude of 1,365m, we climb this time N-NW. The path is dirt, unmarked but quite obvious.
16:00′. We reach a plateau at 1,425m. Opposite is the chapel of Agios Ilias. Cement tank and water trough. A dirt road ends here.
16:15′. We arrive above a barn in tin huts. A dirt road connects it to the tarmac road to Vradeto. Had we known, we would have gained 25′ uphill. We find an obvious, narrow path. It circles a huge funnel with smooth gradients, with ruts and rock formations. High to the northeast we see the familiar ridges of the Avgerino. We are accompanied by a signpost in red paint. The course is pleasant and relaxing, with ideal weather.
16:45′. Iron yellow sign shows us “Kakia Skala/Mega Lakkos” heading SW. Altitude 1,575m. Five minutes later we encounter a new, similar sign.
17:00′. We reach a prairie, flat and beautiful, amid spectacular shale formations. The walls of the megalacque stand out formidably. Our balcony, however, is nowhere to be found. We set out in search of it on the edges of the plateau. We are nearing the end of Mega Lakkos. We already feel a great familiarity with it. We have known him from the small original gorge at the foot of Tymfi, to this giddy abyss before he met Viko.
There remains one last unexplored platform above the canyon. It is located before the Lakkos of Criara, in the direction of Beloi.
–It can’t be anywhere else, I can smell it, says Charitakis, with his long experience as a wildebeest watcher.
With optimistic steps we are moving forward. Beautiful place, grass and rock sculptures, tiny orchids, bouquets of flowers rooted in rocks. If we didn’t have a specific destination, we could wander for hours.
17:50′. The podium is coming to an end. The ground becomes rough, hostile. We’re getting worried. And then, between the cracks in the rocks and the thick branches, a flat, paved surface emerges. Behind it is nothing else. Only chaos.
–There it is!, Anna shouts.
In the afternoon sunlight the limestone slabs are warm. We sit on them and from an altitude of 1,465 metres we gaze out: a dragon’s-eye across from us, to the S-SW, Oxia. To the N, very close to us, the mouth of the Mega Lakkos. To the northwest, the funnel of the gorge and the bulk of Nemertsika. A thousand metres lower, the bed of Vikos is developing, with very little water. A green, impenetrable surface of countless trees covers every part of the gorge.
We give ourselves moments of relaxation on the most unseen, unknown and special balcony of Vikos. Our satisfaction is great. But not Anna’s. She is of course taking pictures but the lighting conditions at this time are not favourable.
Suddenly a lively, spring rain breaks out. We put on our raincoats and let it rip at us with a vengeance. In 10 minutes it stops. All that’s left is the scent of grass.
EPILOGUE
The dawn is bright. We say goodbye to our friends in Papigo and Vikos, we look at Kokkino Lithari and Kastri for the last time, places we have ignored until now. A delicate, gnarled silhouette crosses the road before Eafotopos. It’s a beautiful deer, the first we’ve seen in Zagori.
–This time of the day the lighting in Mega Lakkos will be very nice, Anna suddenly says.
I give her a surprised look.
–I don’t think you mean…
She shakes her head in affirmation.
–I think you’d like it too…
This time we start from the stable. At a brisk pace we need less than 40 minutes. I look for and find the most beautiful spot to sit down and look out over the Viko. Calm and carefree now. My mission is over. Anna is lying on her back and taking pictures from everywhere. Sometimes she reaches the edge of the cliff. When she returns, I don’t have to ask. She’s happy!
REFERENCES
(1) Encyclopedia “PAPYROS/LAROUSSE/BRITANNICA”, Volume 11, p. 615.
(2) I.G.Papaioannou, “PAPIGO, ONE OF THE MOST OLD PLACES OF ZAGORIUS”, FIRST VOLUME
(3) “CONTINENTAL GOODS, ZAGORIA”, IN ATHENS 1870.
(4) I.Lampridis, “HEPIROTIC MELETIMAS, ZAGORIAKA”, 1889.
(5) ELLINIKO PANORAMA, issue 26, MARCH-APR 2002.
(6) Thucydides Papageorgiou, owner of a guesthouse and the café “Sterna”.
SUMMARY OF ROUTES
KASTRI
Starting point: Village of Vikos, alt. 740m.
Finish: Hill of Kastri, alt. 1.280m.
Altitude difference: +540 meters
Trail duration: +- 2:30′
Signposting: Unclear in places
Slope: Moderate
Surface: Dirt or rocky path
Difficulty: Moderately difficult
Note: It is recommended to return by the transit route. The descent from the steep slope is very difficult to dangerous.
VIEWPOINT OF BELOI
Starting point: 900m. N of Vradeto. Alt. 1.365m.
Finish: Viewpoint “Beloi”. Alt. 1.385m.
Altitude difference: +20 metres
Duration: +- 25′
Signposting: Generally evident
Surface: Smooth dirt path
Path: Very easy and pleasant
KOKKINO LITHARI
Starting point: Small Papigo/Church of Taxiarches. Alt. 955m.
Finish: Iconostasis of Virgin Mary. Alt. 1.040m.
Altitude difference: +85 metres
Duration: +- 1 hour
Signposting: Adequate
Slope: Light
Surface: Nice dirt path
Path: Generally easy. A little attention is required at some points.
GRADITSA
Starting point: Upper part of Kapesovo. Altitude. 1.145m.
Finish: Southwest end of Graditsa. Altitude. 1.125m.
Altitude difference: -20 metres
Highest point: Top of Graditsa. Alt. 1.245m.
Duration (back and forth): +- 1 hour and 40min
Signposting: Extensive
Slope: mild in general, except for the steep climb of the first 10 minutes
Surface: Wonderful dirt path
Path: Easy and pleasant
MEGA LAKKOS
Starting point:
A) 900m. N of Vradeto. Alt. 1.365m.
B) Sheep shed. Alt. 1.500m.
Finish: Paved platform between Mega Lakkos-Beloi. Alt. 1.465m.
Altitude difference:
A) +100m.
B) -53m.
Highest point: 1.575 meters
Duration:
A) +- 1.15′
B) +- 50′
Signposting: In the two starting points unclear. Then adequate with red marks. At the finish, non-existent.
Slope:
A) Intense in the first 20-25′
B) Lightweight
Surface: Smooth dirt path
Path: Easy and pleasant. At the finish line, care is required on the rough terrain.
THANKS
-To Giannis Dinoulis, for his hospitality at VIKOS Hotel.
-To the teacher Kostas Ioannidis, for the information and his presence with us in Kastri.
-To Mr. Giannis Papaioannou and his son Charitakis, for their warm hospitality.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
-Lambridis Ioannis, “Ipeirotic Products”, Ioannina 1971 and “Ipeirotic Products”, Ioannina 1993, publications of the Ipeirotic Products Association
-Papaioannou C. Ioannis, “PAPIGO, ONE OF THE EARLIEST PLACES OF ZAGORI”, FIRST VOLUME, Papigo 1994, edition C’
-Papaioannou I. Charitakis “Papigo and its mountains”, ed. b’, Papigo 2007
-Macris P. Euripides, “ZAGOROCHORIA”, Ioannina 1996






















