-Only next to Voidomatis will we find some dew, Anna tells me. In its icy waters and in the shade of the plane trees.

End of August in Zagori. Even in these highlands with their pure nature and minimal human activity, the heat is abnormally high. So perhaps Anna’s suggestion is a, at least temporary, respite of coolness. But it only matters during the day. Because, as soon as it gets dark, the temperature plummets. Here, at the 1,030-metre altitude of Elati, shirts and jackets are worn at night.

-And which part of Voidomatis do you have in mind?

-The whole gorge, of course. That is, the riverside path that connects the bridge of Aristi with the bridge of Klidonia.

-At this hour? It’s almost noon.

-Even better. The temperature difference in the canyon will be more noticeable.

-And who’s gonna pick us up at the canyon exit? Who’s gonna take us back to the starting point and back to the car?

-But no one, says Anna with a disarming smile. We’ll take the trail back again, to enjoy the magic of the river even more.

Listening to Anna’s reply, I think to myself that we have just returned two days ago from our almost catastrophic ascent to Feggari (“Moon”) of Samothrace. The leg muscles have not had time to recover from the long hours of exertion and, in particular, the very fast descent. And now suddenly, instead of resting on some romantic balcony in Zagori, we are getting ready to take to the trails again. Not, of course, just any trail. But, most likely, the top riverside trail in Greece.

AT THE BRIDGE OF ARISTI

It’s an old acquaintance, a great favourite, the Voidomatis Gorge. Not a few times our footsteps have led us there, pilgrims to the unparalleled beauty of the river. (ELL. PAN. issue 42, NOV-DEC 2004 and issue 56, MAR-APR. 2007). Another time we had the amazing experience of the festival of the Monastery of Ag. Anargyroi, July 1, in the famous plane tree below the Monastery. However, by an inexplicable coincidence, all our visits to the river took place starting from the old bridge of Klidonia. We would therefore ascend gently to the monastery, halfway up, and then return. The other half, as far as the bridge of Aristi, we referred to some other time, which, as usually happens on similar occasions, was continually postponed.

-At least now is a good opportunity to get a unified view of the whole route, decided Anna.

-Yes, and even in duplicate, to better consolidate it, I say before we leave the cool balcony of our hotel in Elati.

We cross Zagori in a northwest direction towards Kato Pedina. It’s an amazing long plateau, with an average altitude of about 900 metres. The terrain is flat, with some crops and mainly rich grass. It is the largest lowland area and the most important sheep pasture in Zagori. At the end of the plateau, a good asphalt road, completed in recent years, winds uphill and then descends with steep gradients towards Aristi. Already our field of vision is dominated by the lush valley of Voidomatis and higher up by Papigo, with its famous hairpins and the unique in magnificence “Towers” of Papigo and Astraka. It is impossible to find oneself on the heights of Aristi and not be overwhelmed by an immense awe, not to be “gulled” by the natural splendour that this place exudes. Each time the impression is overwhelming, it is impossible for the vision to feel saturated.

Almost three kilometres below Aristi we meet the bridge and the Voidomatis riverbed. Those who arrive here for the first time are amazed. They get out of their cars, step back and forth across the flat bank under the shade of the plane trees, take countless photos, and utter exclamations of admiration. Not without reason. The image of the river is truly unique. Its waters flow with a stately calm, their colour, depending on the lighting, is light blue in some places and bright green in others, more reminiscent of an exotic island beach than a river. The feature, however, that makes Voidomatis special is the incredible, almost unreal transparency of its waters. A transparency that reveals in every detail even the smallest pebbles of the bed, the tiniest of fishes swaying in the quiet flow. It is not a figure of speech or an exaggeration. Voidomatis is the cleanest river in Greece. And how could it not be? No polluting human activity interferes between the river’s crystal springs in the Vikos Gorge and during its flow: first in its majestic valley and then in the west-southwestern part of the Konitsa plain, to the point where it meets the flow of its bigger brother, Aoos. It is a 15-mile course with fascinating meanderings, in landscapes that are constantly changing. Sometimes between narrow gorges with vertical, impassable cliffs, with cracks in the bed and rushing, foaming waters. At other times, again in landscapes of calm, idyllic landscapes, with flat ground and a peaceful flow on sandy banks. There the Voidomatis looks more like a fairytale lake than a river.

The first part of the river, from its source to the bridge of Aristi, develops between steep slopes, which form the northern mouth of the Vikos Gorge. Here the river banks are inaccessible on foot.

After the bridge of Aristi, the valley of Voidomatis begins, covered with plane trees and beautiful. It is a stunning hiking route, about five kilometres long, on a friendly and relaxing path, ideal for the whole family. This is the route we are preparing to follow and describe. The trail ends at the imposing stone bridge of Klidonia. This is where the plain of Konitsa begins, with flat terrain, rural houses, fields and small farms, both livestock and fish farms. The landscape is still beautiful, however, the magic of the valley is definitely gone.

FROM ARISTI TO KLIDONIA

From the bridge of Aristi we head towards Papigo. At the first hairpin bend going up the mountain, we leave the car off the road. An iron barrier prohibits the entry of vehicles. We pass by and start on the wide – initially – path, among holly and stumps. The altitude here is 475 meters and the time is 11:30′. The shade at this point is minimal and the heat is palpable. A few dozen metres further down, the sound of the still unseen river begins to be heard. Which doesn’t take long to appear low, below the base of the old bridge that was destroyed years ago.

The path goes down beside the bed, dirt, smooth, covered with dry leaves. It is a great pleasure to have our footsteps meet this soft ground, so friendly. The vegetation grows dense and varied. In addition to the sycamores, oaks and gorse, wild hazel, apple trees and cedars cast their shade on the path. Our happiness would be universal if it were not for the sudden appearance of countless flies, which attack the uncovered parts of our bodies, especially our faces. Any attempt to avoid them is doomed to failure. The only countermeasure is a few branches with bark leaves, which, if only for a few seconds, remove the flies from our faces. Without these makeshift “flypaper”, continuing on our course would be painful.

11:45′. We arrive next to the river bank. Its flow is swift and on the boulders particularly murky. Above the left bank are towering, vertical cliffs. For two minutes the path climbs uphill, away from the riverbed. But very quickly he regains the level of the valley. Here are some young, scattered spruce trees. The trail continues, beautiful and relaxing, even for untrained hikers.

12:15′. In a meandering meander the bed narrows, forcing the water to become rapids. At some point the trail surprises us, with a rocky, uphill course, among holly and gorse. The detour does not take more than 5-6 minutes. We rediscover the wide riverbed, with a magnificent flow, which even at the end of August, still retains a significant amount of water.

12:45′. At a very leisurely pace we reach in 1 hour and 15 minutes familiar territory, the famous plane tree below the Monastery of Agioi Anargyroi. Here, every 1st of July, after the Service in the ruins of the monastery, the worshipers from Konitsa, Klidonia and other villages gather. They bring out snacks, tsipouro and wine and start the traditional Epirus dances, with instruments of local musicians. As the sun begins to set over the gorge and the tops of the plane trees, one by one the groups gather their bedding and utensils and move on their way back. Goodbyes are heard and wishes to return in good health next year.

Once again we climb the 100 stone steps – some of which are half-damaged – to the paved, open-air grounds of the monastery. As we arrive, we are greeted by the evergreen and rarely composed, mixed stand of towering maples and holly. From a distance they look like identical trees. Only by getting closer and being observant can one perceive the difference.

The monastery of Agioi Anargyroi stands on the balcony of its steep slope, lonely and ruined. No monk welcomes us with chippuraki and loukoumi. No hermit is motivated – as in the past – to leave the mundane and come to give life, to dedicate himself to this place. Only the figures of the saints gaze at us with their stern gaze from the inner dome of the dome and the walls of the temple. The interior is covered with frescoes, painted as early as 1666. They can be seen in the mezzanine with several deteriorations, although their overall condition is maintained to a satisfactory degree.

The church itself, according to the church inscription on the west wall, was built in 1658. Measuring 4.50 x 4.60 metres, the small trullo church is square in shape. Thanks to maintenance and restoration work, it is generally in good condition. The remaining buildings, the precinct, outbuildings and cells are dilapidated, having not withstood the ravages of time and long abandonment. Those walls that survive, however, are built with grey chipped stone, of very careful construction. Built at an altitude of 485 metres, the monastery is surrounded by a particularly majestic landscape. Peloric limestone cliffs rise to the north, while the impenetrable plane forest stretches below, hiding the flow of the river from our eyes. The surprise, however, is hidden behind the temple, to the east of the monastery. It is the formidable, rocky wall of Astraka, which rises dominantly in the distance, between the dense forests of the valley and the background of the sky. Such a magnificent sight is hard to see from any other part of the gorge.

After the long stop for refreshment and relaxation in the wonderful surroundings of Ag. Anargyroi, we take the trail again. Spontaneously the thought of returning comes to us, since the continuation is very familiar. But the initial decision prevails, to form a complete view of the crossing of the valley. Besides, we do not forget that this part of the route is the most spectacular part of the gorge. Very soon, however, I find how difficult, almost impossible the task is to try to describe, even approximately, the dazzling beauty of the images, the overwhelming variety of the river’s landscapes. I borrow a portion of the description in issue 42, 2004:

“There could be no other heaven on earth. Peloric plane trees centuries old stand their massive trunks, some of them literally jutting out of the water. What tree in nature would not envy the fate of these plane trees, which live to a ripe old age in the crystal clear water of the Voidomatis! We bend down and drink. Always ethereal, always cold, always unique!”

We now also locate our well-known wells after the plantain tree, which gush up next to the bank and end up in the river. Crystal water, ether, from the bowels of an uncontaminated land. It is true happiness to drink and fill our canteens with water of such purity. At a time when all over the world – and certainly in our country – the degradation of the environment and the quality of the water table is one of the greatest threats.

Spectacular cliffs are already rising above the gorge. The flow of water is sometimes light blue and velvety, sometimes noisy and turbulent. Suddenly, some other sounds join the chirping water. They are the sounds of people, laughter and happy voices. Each moment the voices grow louder, approaching swiftly, not from the path but through the waters of the river. It is the inflatable rafts, large and small, that come down Voidomatis, driven by the oars of their crews and the natural flow of the water. Helmets, coloured life jackets, orders from the leader, paddle movements according to the requirements of the various manoeuvres. Everyone seems excited about this experience, including several young children.

Voidomatis is considered an ideal river for rafting, especially for beginners, since the degree of difficulty is low. Thousands of lovers of mild adventure arrive every season of the year in Zagori. Here they benefit from the presence of specialized companies operating in the area, for an unforgettable descent in the crystal clear waters and unique landscapes created in the river gorge.

In the previously deserted Voidomatis, the crowds last for several minutes. More than 10 boats parade past us. As we photograph them, many of the crews raise their hands and wave. Eventually the boats run out, leaving just the two of us and Anna again. Saturday today, so many hours we haven’t met a hiker!

We arrive at one of the most beautiful and spectacular spots on the trail. Excellent trail running along the side of the river. Huge plane trees, several centuries old, dominate the area. Their massive trunks stand in impressive shapes on the banks or protrude through the water. Even stranger is the presence of some rocks. They lie in the riverbed and on them – inexplicably – young plantain trees have grown and developed! It is impossible to understand how their roots have found a way to cling to the surface of the rocks and even support their trunks, leaves and branches.

A few steep ups and downs are interspersed, which, a few minutes later, give way to a bank with smooth ground. Plane trees again with towering trunks. The bed here becomes wide, the water calm and shallow. The most characteristic feature of the area, of course, is the extensive sandy bed covered with fine sand, which brings to mind seascapes. The clear, calm waters are a real challenge. But we do not decide to test our endurance, to confront the icy Voidomatis. Its waters are much colder than any mountain waterfall or pond we have experienced so far.

Immediately after the sandy beach, in an alcove in the bank, we encounter the most beautiful and richest spring of the route. Abundant water gushes up from the bowels of the earth and pours forth with a rush to meet the waters of the river. As long as there are still springs like this one, inexhaustible and full of life in the heart of summer, we have every reason to be optimistic.

Our march through the canyon is nearing its end. A few hundred metres past the spring, the paved path with its amazing stone parapet begins, over the steep slope of the river bank. Low down on the riverbed already dominates the imposing single-arch bridge of Klidonia. At 15:30′, 4 hours after our departure, we arrive at the recreation area under the bridge. Without stops and with a normal pace, the distance of about 5 km can be covered in 1:30′ – 1:45′. But who would ever cross such a paradise without stops, big or small? And for what purpose? In the Voidomati Valley, there is no place for stopwatches and timers. The absolute protagonist is nature and the fascinating path, alongside the cleanest river in Greece.

SUMMARY OF THE ROUTE

Starting point: The first hairpin bend, after the bridge of Aristi, towards Papigo. Altitude: 475m.

Finish: Old stone bridge of Klidonia. Altitude: 455m.

Altitude difference: -20m.

Time (without stops): 1.5 – 2 hours.

Trail: Clear and passable. On the way back, however, at the height of the Agioi Anargyroi plane tree, the signage is inadequate, one may miss the path.

Course: Easy and very pleasant, with long stretches in the shade. At some points, the path is a little steep and rocky.

Attractions: Vegetation of astonishing variety and beauty, plane trees with huge trunks that look like sculptures, frozen springs and the company of Voidomatis, the clearest river in Greece.

Best times to visit: Early autumn with its riot of colourful hues of deciduous trees. Spring is flowery, while winter reveals another beauty.

Disadvantages: On hot summer days there is a chance that hikers may be plagued by annoying flies that abound.