Our coffee runs out sometimes. We would like these moments to last longer, to last a little longer. Which is only for reflection and reminiscence, as the afternoon sun slowly makes its way into the west. And sends its last rays to gently caress Strogoula’s buttocks. A rocky, majestic cone with a slightly rounded top, rising to an altitude of 2,112 meters at the northernmost tip of the Tzoumerka.

This beautiful shape of the cone, full of plasticity and grace, gave architectural inspiration to Nikos Zapsas and Vaso. To create the four self-contained residences of the small mountain tourism unit “THEASIS“. Here in the northwestern lowlands of Tzoumerka, above the settlement of Kistades, between Agnanta and Pramanta.

The second unit, a few tens of meters above, is “CHALET KALYVAS“, owned by George Kalyvas. Here the architectural philosophy changes, we have sharply pointed roofs.

–Why don’t you stay the night?, George says.

–The nights up here are magical, Nikos adds. With no light sources around us, we will make telescopic stargazing fascinating.

–We will stay next time, so that we can have the pleasure of meeting this beautiful Strogoula.

DESTINATION: HIGHLANDS OF STROGOULA

One month after our first meeting we visit Tzoumerka again. This time with a specific destination: the highlands of Strogoula.

Here, in “THEASIS”, one can hardly wish for a more beautiful awakening. A sooty atmosphere, cool mountain air, the sounds of birds chirping. And high up in Tzoumerka a unique picture. The solid limestone cone of Strogoula with its dizzying crags. Only eagles and experienced climbers can feel comfortable up there. A little lower down, the mountain transforms. The slopes become gentler, covered by impenetrable, dark green fir forest. This is the place we intend to climb. A long-standing desire, ever since we first gazed in awe at the impressive rock wall of Strogoula.

You can hear the happy barking of the dogs. They announce the arrival of our good friend Christos Lambris, who will lead us to the mountain.

Christos is a founding member and shareholder of TREKKING HELLAS, which is active in various ways in the region. Its experienced partners can accompany adventure and nature lovers either on the river of Arachthos, or in the surrounding mountains and especially in Tzoumerka.

The September weather, however, does not look particularly friendly. At the time of our departure, an anemic sun winked at us for a moment and then disappeared behind the clouds, to the left of Strogoula.

We take direction S for Agnanta and, 5 km later, we reach the village square, at an altitude of about 640 meters. In order to gain climbing time, we decide to exhaust all the possibilities offered by the dirt road. A dirt road bad in some places, even for 4×4. The route, however, gives us stunning views of Tzoumerka, the vast valley of the Arachthos, in the mountains opposite. Cedar, gorse, plane trees, fir trees and holly trees are crowded on the slopes. The rounded leaves of the goldenwoods begin to turn red, these first of all the other trees preparing each year to welcome autumn.

We cross the settlement of Skeza, we meet a huge rock that has rolled down to the middle of the road, we leave on the right a sign to the Chapel of Analipsi. A little further on we are greeted by an impressive lightning-filled fir tree on the roadside. At 9.5 km. from the square of Agnanta we stop. 100m further on the road ends in front of a stable with a stone-built hut and a spring of cool water.

We start the ascent from an altitude of 1,440 meters at 10:40′ exactly, with general direction N – NE. After the hut the signage is not particularly clear, but the trail, however, follows a course parallel to a hose of water that feeds the hut from a rocky stream just above. Cross the stream and climb up the opposite slope in the direction of N350^ο. The ground is paved with thick grass, low cedars and ferns. Several cows graze on the slopes.

The path becomes easy to walk and with gentle slopes, it allows us to maintain a very satisfactory pace. Thus, at 11:05′, we have already reached an altitude of 1,620 meters. The wind is cold and cloudy, the weather is purely mountaineering. Here a short stop is necessary. Because in front of us the chaotic funnel of Strogoula is revealed, with its dizzying vertical cliffs. The highest point is dominated by the bulk of the peak.

–Will we go up there?, Anna asks in awe.

–There, Christos replies. But it’s not as much trouble as it looks from here.

–The traverse, however, needs attention, Kyriakos adds. At least that’s the impression I get from the trail I can see on the slope.

We climb steeply, through grass and mushrooms, with impressive views everywhere. To the S-SE looms the lone, highly spectacular peak of Roka. A glorious sun fools the clouds for a while, blues the sky. The sun’s rays are very welcome, as the weather has been particularly chilly. The march continues uphill. Opposite us to the E – SE a gentle path can be seen crossing the slope from the direction of Roka.

–I envy that path, I say to Christos.

–It’s very nice, we’ll have the pleasure of walking it on the way back. But we have to climb up to the top.

At 11:40′, one hour after our departure, we are at 1,780 meters, having covered an altitude difference of 340 meters. Distinct in front of us are red marks on a large rock. A few minutes stop at 1900 and we start traversing the steep slope. The trail is completely imperceptible, in many places not even a trace of it is visible. The slope is rocky and rough, with a steep incline, caution is definitely needed. From a distance, however, it looked much more forbidding and dangerous than it actually is.

At 12:20′ the altimeter reads 2,000 meters. Here something unexpected, as well as delightful, happens. The rocks on the slope at one point look wet. As we approach, we find out the cause. It is a liliputian spring that in this terrain, at this altitude, and in such an arid season as late September, still tears with scanty, cold, unpolluted water. Which, paradoxically, is still stored in an unseen natural reservoir in the highlands of the Tzoumerka ridge, just above the spring site. It reminds me of a similar well, at almost similar altitude, at the famous Verlinga of Aspropotamos, high on the slopes of Mount Lakmos. That humble, remote well, along with dozens, hundreds of others, is the beginning of the creation of the course of the Aspropotamos, the legendary Acheloos.

Refreshed after the few minutes of rest and the water of the spring, we continue the time-consuming crossing of the rugged slope. The route offers no walking pleasure as the terrain is uneven, with trap rocks hidden under thick tufts of slippery grass. We have to watch our every step, but the overall landscape, however, exudes a wild majesty that compensates us every time we raise our heads.

At 12:45′ we reach the crest of the ridge, at 2,030 meters. We are now on the final stretch to the much-desired heights of Strogoula. Suddenly Christos and Kyriakos, who are a few tens of metres ahead, disappear from our sight. Gone with them is the peak and the huge gorge of Melisourgoi, low in the NE. In a matter of seconds we feel cut off from reality, as if imprisoned in this intangible but so existent and impenetrable wall of fog, which surrounds us on all sides. But it is not only the fog. A poisonous north wind suddenly begins to hit us mercilessly, freezing the sweat in our bodies. The best we can do is to cover our soaked shirts as quickly as possible with our thin-as-peel but quite effective windbreakers.

Christos shouts in front of us and we immediately answer him. We walk in his direction slowly, side by side with Anna.

–I don’t mind all this fog, I hear her say. It is also an element of the place. I only regret that I didn’t get to photograph some incredible images that appeared for a few seconds and then disappeared.

Anna, of course, means the huge, extremely impressive mountain range of Kakarditsa, the highest of Pindos, which rises like an impenetrable wall along the entire length of the E – NE horizon.

As we walk slowly, the almost flat ground starts to rise, turning rocky. They are rocks with a rough, non-slippery surface, decorated with green and reddish beautiful lichens. Suddenly their colours come alive. As unannounced as the mist enveloped us, so hastily does it leave us, scattering all around like a hunted woman. A few meters ahead of us we see Kyriakos and Christos, who have already reached the top. The moment the clock reads 13:00 we are next to them, at the highest point of Strogoula, at 2,112 metres. It took us 2 hours and 20′ to cover the altitude difference of 670 meters from the starting point to the stable.

–Welcome to Strogoula, Christos says and shakes our hands.

We easily find a place to sit down. Unlike some other mountain tops, which are sharp and inhospitable, Strogoula is very friendly, since it creates a flat circular plateau that can rest several people. Already Christos is preparing a simple snack for everyone: doughy black bread with hard yellow cheese. At the end some chocolate and pure spring water. That’s enough.

I watch his methodicalness, his care for our little companion. He is a true mountaineer, experienced, simple and efficient, who has spent a large part of his life in the mountains. And not only in the Greek mountains, but also in some of the highest and most demanding in the world. I consider it a great honor to have climbed Strogoula with Christos as our guide. In the 11 years of our acquaintance, this is the first time we have climbed a mountain together.

It’s becoming very exciting weather around us. It combines everything: clouds, mists, intervals of sun and distant views, cold air and heat. A jet-black cloud several kilometres long has settled immovably over the valley of the Arachthos and the sierra of Xerovouni. If a wind pushes it towards us we will experience the experience and consequences of a terrible storm. Which is not at all safe to face on top of a mountain. We watch in wonder at the majestic Kakarditsa, which appears at last sometimes sunny, sometimes misty and sometimes cloud-covered.

The horizon is endless in the N-SW. With a clear atmosphere it could have ended in the waters of the Ionian Sea, but today it reaches the sparkling surface of the artificial lake of the river Arachthos. Turning our gaze to the north-northwest we discern at a great distance an unexpected image, which has nothing to do with nature but is due to an artificial work. It is six towering pillars supporting one of the large bridges of the Egnatia Road before Ioannina. We are not forgetting the N horizon. It’s the spine of the Tzoumerka, the narrow ridge with its undulating topography, which in a few minutes will be our way back.

For almost 45 minutes we breathe the light, unpolluted air of the top. It’s such a pleasure to be up here, with all this strange weather. I wish we could stay longer. At 13:45′ we begin our southward march to Roka, this spectacular peak, which we admired a year ago from Christos Lambris’s installations in “Dasiko Chorio” (Forest Village) of Tzoumerka. When we walk along the ridge crest we are exposed to N-NE winds, very cold and strong. Just two meters lower, on the side of the antiprane, the north wind disappears, the climate changes, as if we have been transported to another place.

Our path continues narrow but passable and the signposting is adequate. In any case, the visual contact with Roka is unlimited. Suddenly five partridges take off with the characteristic noise a few meters from our feet and fly away.

We pass successive peaks higher than Strogoula. One has an altitude of 2,125 and the other 2,143 meters. Further away, out of our path, looms the formidable Gerakovouni, a huge solid rock with a trapezoidal shape and a height of 2,364 metres.

At 15:00 we are in the highlands above Roka. This peak has amazed us with its transformations during our journey. In the three changes of perspective so far, it has changed its shape so radically, that if we didn’t know it, we would think it was a completely different peak. Now, as we descend its northern foothills, Roka rises a little lower with a cylindrical bulk that reminds us of the simplicity and severity of a Doric column. The Roka is crowned at the top by a rocky pediment that resembles a pyramid.

Near Roka we find a stone cobblestone and a well with water, not very clean. Next to it a spring is just gushing. We trace NW 340^o. At 15:40′ we are at the beginning of a narrow trail. It’s that nice trail that I envied this morning when we were climbing up the rough slopes. It’s a very long trail, but the trail is so gentle that the descent doesn’t strain the legs.

At 16:45′, exactly three hours after our departure from Strogoula, we arrive at the stable, above the car. We are happy that in this way we complete a 5 hour and 40′ circular walk on the north-northwestern edge of the Tzoumerka massif. A route that, apart from the ascent to the spectacular peak of Strogoula, offers us the experience of a varied route with changing weather and landscapes of unparalleled beauty.

MOUNTAIN UNITS: THEASIS and CHALET KALYVAS

–After you have fulfilled your mission on the mountain, you deserve some relaxation, says Nikos Zapsas. With these words he leads us to the grassy area in front of the hut. Here, a large table full of goodies and fine local wine awaits us.

Dining in the dining room of your home is very different from sharing a table with friends in the charm of the countryside. In a place that is beyond idyllic. And how, of course, could it not be! Imagine. An area of 12 acres at an altitude of 750 meters, with gentle slopes, pleasant terraces and soil covered with natural grass. Small and large native fir trees, amazing tree holly and cedars are scattered everywhere with such a spacious arrangement, that they leave the air and sun free among them. And above all, they do not deprive us of the unparalleled view of Strogoula. This peak of the Tzoumerka, which, without being the highest, is one of the most spectacular.

In this exquisite natural environment, the two small agritourism units are harmoniously integrated, offering us the experience of their unforgettable hospitality. The first unit is “THEASIS”, owned by Nikos and Vaso. Its characteristic feature is the towering roofs in the shape of a cone. Black asphalt tile is the outer casing of the roofs for insulation and durability in difficult times.

The circular masonry of the houses consists of local chipped stone of excellent construction. The light tones of the stone blend harmoniously with the interior wooden surfaces, the solid iron beds and the heavy cast iron wood stove with its panoramic crystals, offering a direct view of the flames of the fire. The position of the wood-burning stove in the centre of the house is reminiscent of all the ancient peoples who, for reasons of absolute practicality and functionality, always placed the fireplace in the centre of the house.

A complete kitchen with all the necessary equipment gives the visitor the opportunity to prepare, if he wants, his food. With a diameter of 8 meters for the two houses and 9 meters for the third, they provide an excellent spaciousness to their residents. The sense of spaciousness is made even greater by the circular shape, very pleasant aesthetically but also very functional. The surprise, however, comes from the flat top of the roof. It is made of thick transparent glass, which in the days lets natural light enter freely, while at night it is a moonlight in the starry or cloudy sky.

Nikos and Vaso lived in Arta, with their two children, Anastasia and Vangelis. Their town was small and quaint, with a much more human face than the big cities. However, their overwhelming desire to live in nature prompted them to renounce the urban environment and the conveniences of the city, to change their lifestyle completely. They acquired this exquisite space and set up their small unit and home here. At the same time, Nikos established his beehives in the natural environment of the mountain. Thus the family and the visitors of the unit enjoy pure, wonderful honey in their breakfast. Difficulties, of course, exist, the weather conditions are sometimes harsh and their life is austere.

–But it is more beautiful than any other city life. We have never regretted our decision, say Nikos and Vaso with absolute certainty.

George Kalyvas, who has created CHALET KALYVAS, a few dozen meters above, is equally satisfied with his decisions. With many occupations in his assets and rich experiences in Greece and Europe, George has chosen the nature of Tzoumerka as his permanent residence. The same idyllic environment here, ponds, fir trees, holm oaks and cedars, which have remained untouched. A small vegetable garden supplies the fresh ecological vegetables that George uses in his cooking.

Our friend is an excellent craftsman, he made with his hands almost everything in his calabashes. Here the roofs are sharply pitched, the presence of wood is strong everywhere and there are large glass surfaces for a clear view and plenty of light. The furnishings, decor and general interior set-up predispose to hours of rest and relaxation.

Late at night the lights in CHALET KALYVAS are on and there is nice music. We are all invited for dinner. George welcomes us and asks us to relax, to feel at home. We hand him a big bag.

–What is this?

–A small gift of nature, a complement to our evening meal.

He takes a look inside and then carefully empties the contents onto the large kitchen counter. A stunning countertop, made of solid fir wood, made by him of course.

–Agaricus campestris, George concludes. Very nice mushrooms. Where did you get them?

–On the grassy slopes of Baros, at an altitude of almost 1900 meters.

–We will cook them in two ways.

He immediately rolls up his sleeves and gets to work.

–How can we help?, says Anna.

–You can’t. In my kitchen I am the only boss.

With feverish and precise movements, he cuts the mushrooms into small pieces and prepares two pans at the same time. In one of them he puts oil, chopped onion, garlic and truffle. In the other, he starts sizzling the fresh butter with coriander, pepper and cinnamon. In a third pan she is already preparing a sauce with fresh tomatoes and a variety of herbs. It is intended to accompany the organic pasta brought by Christos Cordoulas from his organic produce shop in Arta.

In a matter of minutes, the olfactory senses transmit to the brain the most promising messages about what is to come. In the first pan George quenches the mushrooms with balsamic vinegar and in the second with fresh orange juice. In a huge soup tureen the pasta takes its place on the table. We pass successively from taste to taste, without being able to say for sure which one is tastier. Nice red local wine flows abundantly into our glasses. We’re not driving tonight. Here, in the embrace of the Tzoumerka, we will spend the night.

A night of absolute silence, cool and starlit. We take one last look at the cone of Strogoula. It seems so familiar, so friendly, so close. As if no time has passed since we were up there…

SOME GEOLOGICAL AND GEOPHYSICAL INFORMATION ON TZOUMERKA

The mountain complex of Tzoumerka is an elongated and extensive mountain range, which develops over a length of almost 20 kilometres from north-northwest to south-southeast, between the prefectures of Ioannina, Arta and Trikala. The highest peak in the centre of the mountain range is Katafidi, with an altitude of 2,393 metres. Many other peaks exceed 2,000 metres (2,000 ft), with the highest being 2,364, east of Gerakovouni.

The terrain is inaccessible and steep and forms an inaccessible wall, between the Arachthos to the west and the Acheloos to the south-southeast. The highlands are covered by extensive pastures with low vegetation and rich grassland, which favours the development of cattle and sheep and goat farming.

The magnificent forests of Tzoumerka are dominated by fir trees. At lower altitudes we find many species of trees, the main ones being oaks, holm oaks, holly and cedars, gorse, laurel, ferns, beeches and rushes. Willows, plane trees and alders are found on the slopes and in the beds of the streams.

SOME HISTORICAL FACTS

The area of Tzoumerka was probably inhabited since the Bronze Age. In the 4^th century BC the Athamans settled here. The region Athamania and the mountains Athamanian Mountains were named after them. The place was then occupied by Pyrros and the Macedonians, but the Athamanians remained in the region until its conquest by the Romans, when they disappeared for good.

Tzoumerka flourished during the years of the Despotate of Epirus, from 1204 to 1430. In 1480 the region fell to the Turks, but managed to retain important privileges due to its steep terrain and inaccessible mountains. With the emergence of Ali Pasha in 1803, the privileges of the Tzoumerka were abolished, which a few years later took an active role in the Revolution of 1821. At that time, among other chieftains, the famous Katsantonis was active in the region. Tzoumerka was finally liberated in 1912.

THANKS

-To Nikos Zapsas and Vaso for their warm hospitality at the rural houses “THEASIS”.

-To George Kalyvas for the exquisite dining experiences at CHALET KALYVAS.

-To the great mountaineer and good friend Christos Lambris, who led us to the mountain.

TOURING POSSIBILITIES

-Great bridge of Plaka on the river of Arachthos

-Rafting on the river

-Historical Monasteries of Kipina and Vylaza

-4×4 tours in Tzoumerka, Peristeri and Xerovouni

-Hiking and mountaineering routes in Tzoumerka

-Traditional settlements of Syrrako, Kalarrytes, Pramanta, Agnanta.