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Travelogue to Ancient Pydna in Pieria

At the top of a fertile hill that stretches its edges to the sea, Ancient Pydna stands eternally. Ruins from different eras, deeply rooted in the land that gave birth to them, blend harmoniously with the water element of nature, creating an ideal getaway. A genuine Greek blend that invites us to discover it!

Text: Λαμπρινή Βλαχοπούλου
Photos: Άννα Καλαϊτζή
Travelogue to Ancient Pydna in Pieria
Categories: Monuments
Destinations: MACEDONIA, Pieria

It was a sunny Monday morning when Anna and I decided to visit Ancient Pydna, a primitive city built on the western coast of the Thermaic Gulf, between Makrygialos of Pieria and the village of Kitros. We already knew about the natural charm of the place and its historical background, so we felt from the outset that it would win us over. All that remained was to find out. So, we set off…

The trip to Makrygialos was quick and pleasant. We had calm conversations about this and that, glanced at the still snow-capped peaks of Mount Olympus looming in the distance ahead of us, and thought eagerly about what we would see. Ancient Pydna has been around for thousands of years since it was first settled in the early Bronze Age. It was a city with significant commercial activity since the Archaic and Classical periods, mainly due to its port, which allowed maritime communication with other commercial centers in Greece. Its bustling rhythms never ceased, except in the 14th century, when they came to a complete halt with the looting of the Catalan Company.

With these thoughts in mind, we hardly noticed when we arrived in Pydna. Only when the ruins of the city began to appear hesitantly on our left did we realize that we had reached our destination. One glance was enough to confirm that our initial impressions of the natural beauty of the place were not mistaken: a lush green field dotted with poppies and all kinds of flowers, whose fragrance could overwhelm you in a matter of moments. Dense angelica and tall acacia trees formed the natural borders of the plain, while in the center stood the imposing monument, protected—almost hidden. At the edge of the field, an old mulberry tree offered its cool shade to anyone resting on the wooden benches below. The blue of the sea, stretching endlessly behind the monument and below the hill, lent harmony to the overall picture, offering unobstructed views of the faint outlines of Michaniona and Thessaloniki directly opposite, thanks to the clear atmosphere. At the foot of Pydna stretched several kilometers of golden coastline, making it the ideal place for short summer getaways—and more.

In Ancient Pydna, we met Thanasis Gioulis, who willingly became our guide and mentor on our little excursion. During a brief tour of the site, he explained that this was where the acropolis was located, with the rest of the city built around it. Its heyday was during the years of Macedonian rule, as suggested by the inscription ANTIGONIDON that he showed us. However, this came to a dramatic halt with the Battle of Pydna (168 BC), which took place in this very area. The conflict also marked the subjugation of Ancient Greece to the Roman Empire. Today, red poppies bloom every spring in the field where the sounds of battle once echoed. It is as if these crimson flowers are a reminder of the blood that was once shed here.

Despite the efforts of the Roman conquerors to substantially degrade Pydna, it remained inhabitable until Byzantine times. The Hellenistic remains became the foundations for the Byzantine basilicas found in the same spot, which in turn were converted into a military fortress during the Frankish occupation (1204). These disparate ruins are all that remain of its glorious past. Their significance, however, lies in their convergence, thanks to which a composite of different eras is constructed.

The beauties of springtime Pydna proved more than enough to satisfy our eyes and minds. Thanasis also informed us about the summer activities of the Makrygialos Cultural Association, which include a series of marathons, summer cinema, and various musical events—all concerted efforts to revitalize the area. He then referred us to the Museum Warehouse of Makrygialos, a well-designed space that offers a comprehensive introduction to the history of Pieria. The space houses an important collection of finds (amphorae, figurines, burial objects, etc.), the number of which is sufficient to give visitors an idea of the way of life of the inhabitants of Pieria. At the same time, visitors have the opportunity to see the process of conservation and exhibition of the finds up close.

Now filled with images, we set off on our return journey. Who would have thought that a place like this could hide such beauty… Ancient Pydna, with its charming character and the harmonious coexistence of nature and history, taught us above all that no matter how small a place may be, its significance is always greater.

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