Thermopylae

A place of worship and battle, a place of betrayal.
The ultimate symbol of faith in struggle.

“Thermopylae” by C.P. Cavafy:

Honor is due to those who are keeping watch,

Sentinels guarding their own Thermopylae;

Never distracted from what is right to do,

And right to be; in all things virtuous,

But never so hardened by virtue as not to be

Compassionate, available to pity;

Generous if they’re rich, but generous too,

Doing whatever they can, if they are poor;

Always true to the truth, no matter what,

But never scornful of those who have to lie.

Even more honor is due when, keeping watch,

They see that the time will come when Ephialtes

Will tell the secret to the Medes and they

Will know the way to get in through the goat-path.

How can one write about Thermopylae without talking about history, without talking about the heroes who elevated a narrow pass to an insurmountable symbol of faith in the struggle, even if it is a struggle that is a priori doomed? How can one begin an article or tribute to Thermopylae without mentioning the poet who made Thermopylae synonymous with unwavering devotion to duty? Thermopylae, a place of self-sacrifice in defense of freedom, moves every visitor, as it recalls a magnificent resistance against barbarism. What would Western civilization be like if the Persians had ultimately prevailed?

The narrow pass of Thermopylae was the scene of multiple conflicts at various periods in Greek history. However, this pass was completely defeated by nature. The change that took place in the area was so great that it ceased to have any military significance. Over time, the waters of the Malian Gulf receded to the northeast and transformed the small mountain pass into a large, marshy plain, while the debris carried by the Spercheios River shifted its mouth eight kilometers into the sea. This is how the alluvial plain of Spercheios and its tributaries was created, where at the time of the Battle of Thermopylae in 480 BC, the sea reached the boundaries of the old national road, ending in vast marshes. Only the hot springs remain in place, gushing from the earth and forming waterfalls and clear blue pools.

Mythology and history

Thermopylae, a place of worship and battles, is associated with Hercules. Mythology says that the goddess Athena asked Hephaestus to create the baths of Thermopylae, so that Hercules could bathe there and regain his strength after his labors. The mythical hero took refuge there to relieve himself of the pain caused by Nessos’s poisoned tunic, which was stuck to his body as a result of Deianeira’s vengeful jealousy. This is how ordinary people understood natural phenomena. They always sought convincing answers in their imagination in order to understand the world around them, to find plausible explanations for the fumes of springs and steaming waters.

Ten years after the Battle of Marathon, the Persian king Xerxes launches a campaign against the Greek city-states. The Athenian politician and general Themistocles persuaded the Greeks to close the Thermopylae Pass on land and the Artemisium Pass at sea. This was because Thermopylae was the last point where the Greeks could stop the huge Persian army by taking advantage of the narrow passage. The Persians waited four days to attack, and the Greeks resisted for two days. On the third day, Ephialtes, who knew the area well, revealed the Anopaia Pass to Xerxes. There, one of the greatest betrayals in Greek and world history took place. It was a path, a difficult secret passage that started from Fthiotikos Asopos, a tributary of Spercheios, and ended at the third narrow pass of Thermopylae. The supervision of this secret passage was undertaken by 700 Thespians, who were taken by surprise and surrounded. As soon as Leonidas realized the betrayal, he released the allied forces to organize a new defense further south, and resisted fiercely with elite volunteer forces, the legendary 300 Spartans. The main criterion for their selection was that they already had sons, so that their lineage could continue in case they were killed. Joining them in the fight for all was the 700 Thespians, led by Demophilus, and 400 Thebans.

The Battle of Thermopylae highlighted the effectiveness of Spartan military training, the strategic genius of their leader, the value of topographical knowledge, and the power of fighting for a cause. It was resistance to the bitter end that lifted the spirits of the Greeks and paved the way for their decisive victory at the Battle of Salamis. It was a shocking defeat which, like that of Messolongi, turned out to be a supreme victory of mental endurance and faith in the struggle. It was a shining example of self-sacrifice, self-denial, and faith in the ideal of freedom.

The monument of Leonidas

The protagonist of the Battle of Thermopylae, King Leonidas I of Sparta, was honored in modern times with an emblematic monument on the battlefield. At the foot of Mount Kallidromo stands his bronze statue with a helmet, spear, and shield, his gaze fixed on the hill of Kolonos, the site of supreme self-sacrifice. To his right and left, in a lower position, lie the marble figures of Taygetus and Eurotas. The mountain and river of his homeland frame the hero for eternity. The monument was sculpted in 1955 by the sculptor Vassos Falireas. It was unveiled in the same year on the initiative of the Greek-American organization “Order of the Knights of Thermopylae,” in the presence of archaeologist Spyros Marinatos, who conducted the excavations in the area.

For many years, the Athens-Lamia national highway passed right in front of the monument. Cars would stop to admire it or slow down to catch a glimpse of it through the windshield. The conversations between parents and children were typical – “Look, there’s Leonidas” or “Let’s see what they taught you at school” – and there were many staged photos taken under the statue, many nostalgic for heroic times. Few, however, mention the 700 Thespians, whose monument stands right next to that of Leonidas. It is a headless winged youth. Headless, to remind us of the anonymous voluntary sacrifice, winged, to remind us of the value of the ideals defended by the 700 Thespians. Today, to pay tribute to the heroes, we must take a detour from the national highway and exit at Thermopylae or Kamena Vourla. The detour is short, but the debt of honor and rescue from oblivion is great.

The Thermopylae Historical Information Center

Right next to the monument of Leonidas is the Thermopylae Historical Information Center, which offers us a brief tour of history. The architectural floor plan is shaped like a spearhead pointing north. It is a modern, functionally designed building with large glass surfaces that allow light to diffuse throughout the space, and has been scientifically curated by the Foundation of the Hellenic World. It is an excellent choice for refreshing our historical knowledge and for a first-class educational visit for children. In the “Dieneikes” room, wearing special glasses, we watch a 15-minute virtual reality film about the Battle of Thermopylae. We feel as if we are present at the events, as if we are watching Ephialtes lead the Persians through the night from the Anopaia Pass to the western gate, as if we are facing the myriads of “Immortals” from the hill of Kolonos. In the “Thermopylae” room, visitors can activate the interactive table screens with their touch and learn about the Persian Wars, the Battle of Thermopylae, the Battle of Artemisium, the protagonists, and their equipment. All this is based on the historical documentation of Herodotus, according to what the father of history writes in Book VII of his History, that of Polymnia.

The monument at Kolonos

Opposite the monument to Leonidas is a low hill that has been identified with ancient Kolonos, where the final phase of the Battle of Thermopylae took place. This hill was a strategic defensive point, as evidenced by the construction of successive defensive works in the area at various times. In 1939, archaeological excavations supervised by Spyridon Marinatos brought to light a large number of iron and bronze spears and arrowheads dating back to the 5th century BC. It is astonishing to know that the arrows preserved today in museum display cases are the same ones that blocked out the sun on the battlefield in 480 BC. These are the ones that Dienekes defied, replying, “Better to fight in the shade,” a response synonymous with contempt for death. According to Herodotus’s account, the fallen of the Battle of Thermopylae were buried there, and a stone lion and three inscribed monuments were erected in their honor. The epigram composed by Simonides of Ceos sends shivers down the spine of even the most uneducated: “Stranger, tell the Spartans that we lie here, obeying their command.”

We climbed the hill of Kolonos and felt awe. The battlefield has been watered with human blood, the earth has absorbed human bodies; the traveler who climbs up and encounters the legendary epigram, which, even though it is a copy, still moves him, cannot fail to feel this. And even greater is the emotion when you see the modern offerings to the guardians of Thermopylae: a wreath of wild olive and a wreath of laurel. Wild olive for their feat. Laurel for their glory.

The hot springs

Four kilometers outside Thermopylae are the springs of Kallidromo, known since ancient times. Their hot waters emerge from the depths of the earth and are enriched with therapeutic trace elements, chlorides, sodium, and sulfur, which make their smell particularly strong and, for many, unpleasant. The origin of the hot spring is inextricably linked to tectonic faults, as evidenced by the countless earthquakes in the region of Fthiotida. Since 1935, Thermopylae has been operating as a hydrotherapy center, and from the late 1960s to the 1980s, the baths enjoyed their heyday. In 2009, the baths ceased to operate and the hotel building was abandoned until recently, like a lifeless carcass or a washed-up shipwreck. In 2016, Syrian refugees moved there and now live there, bringing it back to life. Their clothes hanging on the balconies are clear proof of this. However, there is also a sense of abandonment and faded grandeur. You will see them enjoying the scenery, splashing around in the warm waters, savoring a unique privilege that life has given them as a small compensation for their expatriation.

As no investments of any kind have been made yet, access to and use of the thermal springs is free. There are avid users of the baths who come from Lamia and the surrounding areas at every opportunity. There are also occasional visitors who, every time they pass by the Athens-Lamia national highway, do not hesitate to make this small detour to treat themselves to an experience that would otherwise cost them dearly. All of them claim to have noticed benefits to their health, mainly in relation to arthritis, asthma, bronchitis, and respiratory conditions in general.

It is not easy to find the baths if you are not in the know. Just before the Leonidas monument, on the way to Athens, turn right onto an unmarked dirt road. The strong smell of sulfur will guide you even if you miss the entrance. Police vehicles are also a trademark, as there is a traffic police station there, as well as many trucks, mainly with Balkan license plates. The steam rising from the ground gives the place a mystical atmosphere. As you get closer, the smell becomes stronger, until you eventually get used to it and it no longer bothers you. You arrive at the site and see people of all ages and nationalities in their bathrobes, either proper or improvised, going in and out of the water, ignoring the weather conditions, as the water temperature remains constant at 41 degrees Celsius in both winter and summer. Around them, behind the rusty railings, a crowd of street vendors display their seasonal products on stalls and hawk them to passers-by. Honey, chestnuts, spoon sweets, walnuts.

Tips for visitors

Bring your oldest swimsuit and your old faded towels. The power of metals and trace elements is so strong that it can alter the color of fabrics. Be sure to remove your jewelry, unless you want to experiment with metals. Flip-flops are essential, because the rocks are slippery. And then it’s time to get in the water. There are two places where you can dive in: at the waterfall, which you see as soon as you arrive at the baths, and in the built “pool” that collects water from the springs, just after the ghost hotel. The temperature is quite high and it may take you a while to get used to it. Afterwards, however, the sensation of heat brings only feelings of warmth and relaxation. Two or three spots are particularly desirable; discover them and enjoy the experience. This is where the water falls on your neck and gives you a special massage. And if you are daring, it is worth letting yourself be whipped by the hot waterfall. There, children and young people play with the water, clinging to the rock and diving into the deepest parts of the natural pools, about one and a half meters deep. You will reach the waterfall by following the ropes, with great care and tightrope walker movements. The landscape is even more magical when the outside temperature is low. Then, everything around you becomes blurred by the steam from the spring, you lose track of time and emerge purified, with a rosy and soft body, warmed up enough to withstand the cold for a while until you get into the car and get dressed.

Leaving Thermopylae, purified by the waters of life and history, you think about who today is capable of guarding the Thermopylae of our time, the narrow passages and red lines that safeguard our personal and collective dignity. You think about how much honor is due to those who rose to the occasion and emerged victorious. And even more, how much greater honor is due to the great losers, the people who, while knowing that the cause they are fighting for is doomed from the outset, nevertheless remain committed to the goal. Ephialtes lurks and points the way. Anopaia Atrapos lies behind every struggle. It is precisely this ancient passage that Kyriakos Papageorgiou will introduce us to. He will teach us to walk in Anopaia Atrapos without Ephialtes or any kind of nightmares.

Bibliography

Wordsworth Christofer, Epitome of Greek Mythology, 1868, Greece, ed. Ekati, 2001