Back to the baths

Hippocrates introduced hydrotherapy as a method of healing diseases in his work “On Airs, Waters, and Places.” Asclepieia were transformed into medical centers, where balneotherapy was practiced systematically and methodically, for every illness. I remember my grandmother and her elderly traveling companions going to spa towns for 21 days of balneotherapy, with their prescription forms. Twenty-one consecutive days, exactly as recommended in ancient times. And while in the past, thermal baths marked the beginning of old age, today younger people seek rejuvenation and physical and mental balance there. Nowadays, you don’t have to be sick to go for balneotherapy. You just need to want some wellness and relaxation.

Historical overview

As we approached the hydrotherapy center, we felt something from the past. Nothing seemed out of place. All the infrastructure was perfectly integrated into the natural environment. We found archive photos and immediately made our comparisons. Then and now. 1910 and 2010. A century of difference in time. But in terms of place, the differences are small. A brief historical overview is always useful, so that visitors can understand the place and its people, but also reflect on their own presence there.

In ancient times, the mountainous location and inaccessibility of the area kept the thermal waters a secret of the inhabitants of the surrounding settlements. Their promotion and systematic exploitation began in 1662 by two wealthy merchants from Smokovitsa, Frangos and Moschos Stravonoglou, who were active in the Danube regions. They built the first permanent baths. Subsequently, Ali Pasha became interested in balneotherapy and organized infrastructure, of which few traces remain. With the annexation of Thessaly in 1881, the baths became the property of the Greek state. In 1903, the politician K. Tertipis from Karditsa took over their exploitation for twenty years in exchange for rent, with the obligation to carry out improvement works. A road, a restaurant, and the hotels “Olympus,” “Macedonia,” “Neuropolis,” “Tertipion I,” “Tertipion II,” and “Falara” ushered in a new era for the area. Then, the Karditsa General Enterprises Company leased the baths for 25 years, on condition that it modernise the infrastructure. Thus, a hydrotherapy center with 52 marble baths was built, and above it, the two-story “Tempi” hotel. For the less affluent, two popular guesthouses, “Pindos” and “Oraia Thessalia” were built, while people from the surrounding villages flocked to the baths for spa therapy with their families, sleeping outdoors without fear.

However, the war interrupted the heyday of the baths. In 1943, the Greek Police Officers’ Academy was housed in the baths’ facilities, which angered the Germans, resulting in the destruction of Loutropolis. In 1952, the baths were transferred to the newly established Greek National Tourism Organization, which announced a competition for their reconstruction. New projects were then undertaken, such as the water supply for the hotels and the inhalation therapy center. This is a brief history of Loutropolis, which naturally follows the history of modern Greece.

Since 1982, the Smokovo Baths have been operating as a community enterprise with prices affordable to all. The thermal waters are strongly alkaline, with a pH of 9.8 and a temperature of 40.2°C. They are recommended for respiratory diseases, rheumatism, arthritis, neuralgia, myalgia, skin diseases, and gynecological disorders. The facilities include a spacious swimming pool, sauna, hammam, massage area, individual whirlpool baths, and a room for individual inhalations and nasal rinses. From October 15 to June 1, the facilities are open to the public on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (for more information: 24430 61210 www.loutrasmokovou.gr).

And, of course, what could be better than enjoying the relaxing pool accompanied by gastronomic delights—guaranteed delicious creations from the hands of Apostolia Zacharaki at the Zacharaki Restaurant-Guesthouse, where dishes are served with warm smiles.

The Kremasi Waterfall

The highlight of our trip was meeting Kostas Roubis, a native of the area, who, during the lockdown, “took to the mountains,” He walked them, got to know them better, and from then on wanted to share the magical trails of the area with others. And especially the trail that leads to a waterfall. So he decided to create a hiking trail, about a mile long, that leads to a waterfall. Small but beautiful, it is called Kremasi. “Every time I see the waterfall, it looks different. With more or less water, even frozen, with swollen or dry crossings,” Kostas tells us enthusiastically.

We will visit Kostas’s birthplace during the last hours of our visit to the area, in the village of Thrapsimi, at an altitude of 650 meters. This village, like most villages in rural Greece, is empty of young people. The few children commute daily to the neighboring village of Kedros, and the older ones, the high school students, to Leontari. Menelaida is the name of the municipality. Kostas’ parents, Eleni and Sotiris, open their home to us and captivate us with their hospitality. His mother even sang us songs.

“The birds of spring made me laugh,” she sang. “They laughed at me and told me I wouldn’t find a wife.” And so, deep in thought, we set off on our way back…