Chipped stones, carefully placed, protective walls and well-made steps, gentle and relaxing slopes, a wise, winding course, hardly dangerous on steep slopes. These are the characteristics that brought together the cobbled streets of the continent, the famous “Skales” (Stairs) that connected the villages. Together with the bridges and fountains, they are the most authentic examples of Zagori’s folk architecture.

Few of the stairs still retain the glory of their original construction. Most of them have been swept away by the wind of wear and tear, indifference and forgetfulness. The best preserved ones are the famous “Skala of Vradeto”, of “Vitsa”, of “Kipoi”, of “Koukouli”, of “Monodendri” and of “Vikos”. But there are still others, which people’s despicableness has condemned them to devaluation and ruin. We will look at them too, and direct our steps to them. We therefore invite you on a long journey to the known and unknown staircases, the humble and the famous, those that time has swept away and those that are preserved as if they were yesterday. Our way of travelling will be the one that is appropriate to Zagori: the traditional, enjoyable, calm and slow: on foot.

FROM KIPOI TO KOUKOULI

Our starting point in Kipi is the Kipi Suites. The guesthouse was created at the eastern end of the village, in an elevated location with a stunning view. With two exquisite 1848 buildings at its core, the accommodation combines in a rare way the architectural tradition with top modern amenities, bridging the past with the present in the most ideal way.

The October morning dawns chilly, with a sun that, depending on the clouds around it, appears sometimes bright and sometimes pale. The horizon to the south and west is covered by the densely wooded and long-stretched Mitsikeli, while in the distance, far to the east, the peaks of the Tzoumerka Mountains, white with the first snow, stand out.

We descend to the western entrance of Kipi, to the Vikaki gorge. The beginning of the path is marked by a yellow sign with the indication “Δ1 TO KOUKOULI”.

11:35′. We start from an altitude of 790 metres. The trail follows the right bank of the gorge and in two minutes brings us to the beautiful bridge of Kontodimos. A variety of images beautify the Vikaki: purple cyclamen and yellow crocuses, vines with red hornbeams, willows, willow trees, anchovies, apple trees and maple trees. Above the bridge stands a solid limestone, vertical but with negative slopes. It is an ideal climbing field, with routes bearing permanent anchors with rock spurs and planks. The climbing routes have names, depending on the poetic mood and originality of the naming climbers.

After the bridge, the path ascends and divides N towards Kapesovo and NW towards Koukouli. We continue towards Koukouli. We are greeted by a couple of hiking foreigners. We would be surprised if they were Greeks. The cobbled road begins, slightly uphill, winding, with terraces at a very functional distance from each other.

11:55′. At an altitude of 860 metres, a forest of large oak trees begins. The first autumn colours appear on the foliage. The trail is nice and friendly. Between the branches we can see Koukouli. Ending the path, the traditional strata gives way to asphalt.

12:20′. 45 minutes after our departure we arrive at the beautiful square of Koukouli, at an altitude of 915 meters. Memories come back vividly after 10 years, when in 2001 we created the first article about Zagori on the subject of Koukouli. A plane tree, cobbled streets, a covered fountain and a picturesque little café. Which still operates under the catchy name of “Vikogiatros”. Nikos Kontodimos from a generation of Zagorian Sarakatsanos from Koukouli embodies the Vikogiatros in practice.

He brings us a drink with five herbs: Mountain Tea, Bee Balm, Balsam, Mint and -unknown to us- Hippophae. He calls it the ‘Potion of Chastity’.

-I suddenly feel ambrosial, I say to our friend, as I take the last sip.

Nikos has been collecting herbs for 15 years. He has at least 100 herbs for his drinks and makes many liqueurs. His specialties are flour pie and nettle pie.

In the square of Koukouli we meet our good friends, Michalis and Fofo. We will never forget their famous flour pie, of which we even published the recipe. Today she changes it a bit, adding zucchini, which makes it just as delicious.

THE SKALA OF KAPESOVO

Kapesovo is geographically inseparable from the most famous staircase in Zagori, the ‘Skala of Vradeto’. This was the only staircase, which until the 1960s connected the two mountain villages. But Kapesovo also needed an exit to the west, to Monodendri in Vitsa and Viko. This strata, concentrating few of the typical characteristics of the “staircase”, was, however, an important path, very spectacular. Let us get to know it.

12:50′. We start from the square of Kapesovo, at an altitude of 1,095 meters. We cross the lower part of the village on a cobbled path, following the signs to Viko. We enter a dense forest of gavros, vines and large oaks. We walk on a shady, dirt and restful path. Its excellent marking is due to the Kapesovite Thucydides. A cute squirrel, stuffed with a nut, senses our presence and disappears with incredible acrobatic jumps from branch to branch. Every attempt to take a photo falls on deaf ears.

13:20′. We reach a rocky clearing. We look down on the bed of the Vikos River with dense vegetation.

A path begins, stony at first and then dirt and unpleasantly muddy from the recent rain. The mud, and the extremely steep gradient make the path extremely slippery. Five minutes later, the ground tans again.

13:50′. A leisurely one-hour hike brings us to a rocky complex at an elevation of 765 meters. A stone path is carved at its roots. At a bend it widens and creates a stunning viewpoint. The immediacy of the view is truly impressive. We treat ourselves to a satisfying stop.

It begins a rough descent into a bark forest. 15 minutes later, the trail becomes dirt again, friendly, extremely idyllic.

14:30′. After a 1 hour and 20 minutes march, our feet step on the rough cobbles of Vikos. The altimeter reads 670 meters, which means an altitude difference of 425 meters from the square of Kapesovo. From the opposite bank of the gorge, the stone staircase to Monodendri starts. Behind us to the E-NE is the mouth of the gorge of Mezaria, which separates the Kapesovo Gradista from the highlands of Vradeto. Red marks can be seen on the stones, but there are also many stone “cuckoos”, which mark the rough path through the bed. These cuckoos, set up by some people during the summer season, will be swept away by the violent flow of the river as soon as the rains begin.

A few deep breaths, some water and we take the path back. Our next destination is the famous Monastery of John the Baptist Rogovou.

FARAGI VIKAKI and MONASTERY OF ROGOVOU

From Kapesovo we ascend towards Tsepelovo. Before the famous head village a sign shows us the downhill asphalt road on the right, which after almost 700 meters leads to the monastery. Built on the sunniest side of the wild gorge “Vikaki” or “Selato”, the monastery was given the name “Rogovos”, which means “trench” in Slavic, and “steep place” in Serbian. It is said to have been built in the 11th century by Pulcheria, sister of the Emperor Romanus III the Silver. The catholic is the creation of the monk Nicodemus of Konica in 1749. The carved stones and slabs on the roof are very beautiful. The strong buttresses on the north wall give it a fortress-like appearance. The church was frescoed in 1765 by the famous Kapesovite painters Anastasios, John and George.

The monastery in the years of the Ottoman rule had a large property. The prominent Zagorians intended it to serve as a university. The Revolution of 1821, however, thwarted all these aspirations.

Before the abandoned cell facilities we can see the beginning of the path.

16:30′. We start from an altitude of 930 metres. The path is dirt and quite downhill and penetrates a wonderful forest of gorse and oak trees. A few minutes later, the impressive picture of the vertical walls of the gorge is revealed in front of us.

16:45′. The trail emerges from the forest, acquiring some “staircase” characteristics, with a protective wall, some slabs and rudimentary steps.

16:55′. With a relaxed descent, in almost 25 minutes, we meet the dry, boulder-strewn canyon bed. The altitude is 800 meters. We follow a diamond-shaped reddish-yellow sign on a tree trunk. Very quickly we leave the parallel course with the bed and head uphill to the SW. Immediately afterwards the trail goes downhill with a rocky slippery slope. Very spectacular images are revealed of the chaotic walls of the canyon, which, despite the nickname “Vikaki”, is anything but small. For anyone who knows the colossal dimensions of the great Vikos, the name “Vikaki” is perfectly justified. However, the sense of immediacy from the solid rocks all around us is overwhelming, almost oppressive. We feel it very realistically as we walk along the roots of a huge rocky complex, tens of meters high and over 100 meters long! Drops of water fall on our heads from the rocky roof, and in a hollow part of the bed, a pond with a lot of water has formed from the recent rains.

If we continued through the dry canyon bed, we would end up after about an hour and a half at the familiar bridge of Kontodimos, in Kipi. Today, however, our destination is the circular route to the monastery. A few minutes later we find the path that climbs up from the bed.

17:40′. We start the ascent from 710 meters. It is not one of the usual friendly paths of Zagori, but a rough course that requires great care. It is in fact a narrow, very steep gully, the inhospitable bed of which we have to climb. And here we are, at one point the rocky rims of the gully come so close that they join together in a natural, age-old kiss. The point of their junction creates the famous “Theogefyro”. We pass in awe under the rocky arch. The terrain, apart from the extremely steep slope, is also very slippery, without the slightest point of support. Some assistance with solid rails or rope is essential, especially in rainy conditions. The altitude at Theogefyro is 775 metres and the climb continues to be relentless, hostile.

18:05′. At last, we hit flat ground at an altitude of 890 meters. We walk for a few minutes on the neck overlooking the canyon. Then we come across a sign with the words “Selato”. We enter an oak forest in a N-NE direction (30°). Friendly again the path with red signs on the trunks. As the sun sets, it illuminates the majestic gap in the canyon and behind it two overgrown, twin peaks. For a few minutes we admire the nature of Zagori. Then we ascend a smooth oak-covered ridge heading west 270°.

18:30′. We reach the asphalt road at an altitude of 1,025 meters. In front of us a sign says “MANETES, SELATO, ST JOHN ROGKOVOU”. Under the asphalt there is a path that in some places is closed or unclear. We prefer the rough but safe asphalt route of 2.7km to the monastery.

19:30′. At the last light we complete our circular route. About 200 meters before the Monastery we are quenched by a magnificent built fountain with wonderful water. So in three hours in total, with several miniature stages, we get to know this old Zagori trail, which is of great interest, both for walking and touring. However, good physical condition and familiarity with demanding mountain hiking conditions are required.

KAKIA SKALA

At the end of April 2010 we first saw a small iron, yellow sign for the first time. It was at an altitude of 1,480 meters and had the words “KAKIA SKALA/MEGA LAKKO” on it. We ignored it since what we were looking for was a top but well-hidden “balcony”, wide open in the Vikos funnel. A short time later two days of efforts were rewarded, we discovered the balcony. Our happiness was immense. We were facing perhaps the most stunning scenery of mountainous Greece.

In the months that followed, twice more we passed indifferently in front of the small, yellow sign. Until the moment, when the name of Kakia Skala, Mega Lakkos, sounded very loudly in our ears.

AN ADVENTURE WITH A HAPPY ENDING

I met Manolis Diamantopoulos in the autumn of 2005 during the article on Dilofo. He had been travelling for 5 years already from the bustling Athens, and he devoted himself with great passion and consistency to accompanying visitors on the paths and gorges of Zagori. With him I had made a long circular route from Dilofo, to Skala of Vitsa, to the famous bridges of Misios and Kokkoris and, via the small bridge of Kapetan Arkoudas, to Dilofo again. The experience of hiking with Manolis was excellent, as was all the information he provided about the natural environment of the place. After all these years I would meet Manolis again. He was the man who had been in charge of leading us to the Kakia Skala.

It dawned at Kipi with one of the familiar autumn mists that make the landscape of Zagori dreamlike. But also its soil is particularly wet, as if it had been rained on before. At the meeting place Manolis is on time. With him is another mountain man, an old acquaintance of his. He is Makis Logiotatidis, Ski Instructor and Mountain Guide, calm, patient and methodical. It is a very happy coincidence for us the presence of these two people, with so much experience in mountain conditions.

09:40′. We depart from the paddock of Fanis, just before Vradeto, at an altitude of 1,455 meters. In the presence of Fanis the many large dogs are indifferent. I can’t guarantee that when they are alone, the same is true. So we head back out again to the wonderful highlands of Vradeto, on the delightful dirt path, with a wonderful view of the Vikos funnels and the mountains opposite. It’s the same path that, a year ago, led us to the top view balcony of Vikos and the yellow signpost of Kakia Skala.

10:10′. In half an hour we meet the familiar yellow sign. We turn NW (305°) and descend gently into a valley with lush grass. Opposite us rise the vertical walls of the Mega Lakkos and, higher still, the bare peak of St. Ilias.

10:20′. We reach the end of the valley in front of the remains of a dry-stone iconostasis. An artistic sign of the Kapesovo Cultural Association gives details about Mega Lakkos.

-Kakia Skala, what is it like?, I ask Manolis.

-Difficult. Over the years it has suffered a lot of damage. I’m also concerned about the increased moisture in the soil. We have to be careful, the grass and stones will slip.

10:30′. We start from an altitude of 1,435 meters. Already from the first steps Manolis is confirmed. The tall grass and hidden rocks are hopelessly slippery. Every step we take must be absolutely steady. No mistake or careless movement is forgiven. As the minutes pass and we slowly descend we realize that never before have we encountered a similar route, so dangerous, so demanding.

10:55′. We reach an altitude of 1,315 meters. In 25 minutes we have not descended more than 120 meters of altitude difference. We stop for a breath. I ask Manolis, on the five-point trail difficulty scale, how he rates Kakia Skala.

-Of course a 5, he replies. In only a few places I give it a 4. It’s not a path for everyone.

11:10′. Another short stop at 1,200 meters. The bed of the Mega Lakkos is still very low. We rest for a while on the only flat ground so far, which is no more than 8 square meters. All around us, perched on the cliff, the sorbic trees dominate. On the opposite vertical cliffs are clinging fir trees. It is utterly inexplicable in which crevices they found soil to take root and then grow.

11:30′. We are at an altitude of 1,155 metres next to a cliff. A large arrow with red paint and three !!! directs us to the top of a suspended aluminium ladder with an auxiliary rope.

11:45′. Altitude 1,120 meters. Ahead of us a difficult passage in a rocky waterfall. A perfectly balanced jump is required, because there are no support points on the steep slope. This is followed by scruffy seracs with two or three difficult passages.

12:10′. We breathe deeply. We are in front of a cluster of ancient bark trees. For the first time the altitude drops below 1,000 metres.

12:20′. We come across a sign that reads “ARKOUDOTRIPA”. The altitude is 940m. In 1 hour and 50 minutes we have descended -collapsed would be the more correct term- an altitude difference of 495m to the vertical walls of the Mega Lakkos (“The Great Pit”). The Kakia Skala (the “Bad Staircase”), or rather what remains of the ravages of time, is already past.

-Look where we came down from, says Manolis.

We gaze in awe at the vertical cliff. If I hadn’t lived it minute by minute, I would have been unable to believe it. We climb up a small sara and reach the Bear’s Hole. A wonderful cave, with friendly terrain. It can be used as a shelter by several people (unless a bear has taken over). A sign points uphill east to “PLAKA/AYGERINO”. We decide to head west down the Mega Lakkos Gorge to the Vikos Gorge at “KLIMA”, as indicated by the sign.

CROSSING THE TRENCH OF MEGA LAKKOS

Our view of Mega Lakkos has so far been merely visual, distant, theoretical. But at the bottom of the gully, as our footsteps seek a passage between the cobbles, the feeling is very realistic. Moreover, the immediacy of the solid rock walls all around us makes us feel the insignificance of our existence in the face of nature’s chaotic grandeur. A nature, however, that, apart from awe, also gives us unparalleled beauty, in varied and unexpected forms. Here is an ivy, supernatural in height and thickness of trunk, clinging like an oyster to the surface of the rock. Farther down begins a forest of towering gavros, with straight trunks, which, in their effort to come out into the light, approach 30 metres in height! I don’t think we’ve ever encountered any such anchors. They are rivalled in height by maple and ash trees.

We hardly ever walk on a distinct path. The route, of course, quite well marked with signs and red paint, follows the friendliest possible route. Which often meanders between stones covered by a thick layer of deep green moss. It’s a dreamlike landscape of unprecedented beauty. Contrary to our initial predictions, influenced by the rough sars and pebbles, Mega Lakkos offers us an incredibly idyllic continuation.

15:10‘. Having started at 13:30 from Arkoudotrypa (altitude 940m), we cross in 1:40’ the section of Mega Lakkos to the rocky bed of Vikos, at an altitude of 555m. In the last half an hour the route is unclear, signage needs improvement. 10 minutes before reaching Vikos we meet the thick black hose, which carries water from the depths of the gorge to the built-up fountain at the “Klima” site. To get here, we walk for 10 minutes in a southerly direction along the bed of Vikos, on concretions so wet and slippery that they look like they have been smeared with grease.

FROM KLIMA TO MONODENDRI – THE FAMOUS STAIRCASE

For 15 minutes we suspend our hiking activities, treat ourselves to some rest and wonderful cool water. “Klima”, with the fountain built by E.O.H.S. Papigou in 2008, looks like a small paradise. At 15:35′ we start the trail to Monodendri, 17 years after the first crossing of Vikos. Everything seems like yesterday. The steep uphill, the exposed passage, the iron staircase. Anna leads the way with Manolis and Makis. Suddenly she starts shouting: “I don’t believe it, it’s not possible! What are you seafarers asking in Viko?”

Two familiar figures come towards us. They are Alexandra and Nikos Riganas, our hospitable hosts on Papadiamantis’ island eight years ago. The memories of Skiathos come back vividly. Nor, of course, can we forget the helpfulness of Alexandra and Nikos. After the end of this year’s tourist season, they chose Zagori as their holiday destination for the first time. They were ready to cross the gorge all the way – to the settlement of Vikos – at the risk of being caught in the dark. We persuaded them to return with us to Monodendri.

17:25′. We arrive at the beginning of the Monodendri Skala, 1:50′ after leaving Klima. Our hitherto companions, Manolis and Makis, hurry to bid us farewell. They still have a long way to go. They will continue uphill to Kapesovo and from there they will follow the footsteps of the old Zagorians to the famous “Skala of Vradeto”, to the stable of Fanis. We shake hands. We owe them the unique experience of descending Kakia Skala and crossing Mega Lakkos, routes that are special and little known to the general public.

With Alexandra and Nikos we take the uphill cobbled road to Monodendri. This staircase is a historic and important stairway that once connected Monodendri with Kapesovo, Vradeto, Kipi and Vikos. Today the staircase is one of the main entrance gates to the famous Vikos’s Terrace.

The old cobblestone pavement has been preserved, but it has suffered a lot of damage. Many of the steps have collapsed without being restored. For the record, the total number of those preserved is close to 800. Even so, however, the staircase at Monodendri unfolds in its winding route all the craftsmanship and experience of the old masters, the wise carving of the steep slope, the avoidance of steep inclines, the protection with a wall where necessary. Here, then, although the ascent is continuous, in very few places it is considered tedious. Thus, combined with the impressive natural environment, the Monodendri Skala is an excellent and perfectly safe hiking experience for every nature lover.

The difference in altitude, from the bed of the Vikos to the highlands of Monodendri, to the stone theatre of Angelos Kitsos, is not at all desirable, reaching 380 metres. The net time required varies, depending on the pace of the ascent, from 45′-60′. With an extra 10 minutes we reach the famous Monodendri for relaxation and enjoyment of the local cuisine, with the famous “Aleuropita” as the main representative.

As the day ends, we take stock of our impressions and calculate the hours of walking from the morning. They have exceeded a total of 7 hours and 20 minutes!

SKALES OF ZAGORI – SUMMARY ROUTES

Skala of Kipi

Starting point: 790m.

Finish: Koukouli Square, alt. 915m.

Alt. Difference: 125m.

Time: 40′-50′.

Route: Easy (1)

Marking: Excellent

Sightseeing: Cobblestone path, Vikaki Gorge, Koukouli Square.

Skala of Kapesovo

Starting point: 1.095m.

Finish: Vikos Bed, 670m.

Altitude. Difference: 425m.

Time (including return): ±3 hours

Route: Easy – moderately difficult (1-2)

Marking: excellent

Sightseeing: Excellent view of Vikos Gorge.

Skala of Rogovos (roundabout route).

Starting point: 930m.

Initial destination: Vikaki bed, alt. 710m.

Alt. Difference: 220m.

Time: ±1 hour

Total time – Moni: ±3 hours

Route: Easy-difficult (1-3)

Sightseeing: Rogovou Monastery, Theogefyro, overall landscape of the area.

Kakia Skala

Starting point: Rim of the Mega Lakkos Gorge

Altitude: 1.435m.

Finish: Bed of Mega Lakkos

Altitude. Difference: 495m.

Time: 1:50′ – 2 hours

Marking: clearly visible

Route: Very difficult-dangerous (4-5)

Sightseeing: Wild magnificence of Mega Lakkos Gorge.

Observation: The approach to Kakia Skala is prohibited: 1) In bad weather conditions, 2) To people without much experience in difficult hiking conditions, 3) Without the accompaniment of a qualified guide.

Skala of Monodendri

Starting point. 1.050m.

Finish: Bed of Vikos Gorge, altitude 670m.

Altitude difference: 380m.

Time: ±1 hour

Route: Easy – moderately difficult (1-2)

Marking: excellent

Sightseeing: Monodendri, cobblestone road, overall landscape of Vikos Gorge.