Its history and fame were perfectly linked to the writing of the Apocalypse (95 AD) and the foundation of the Monastery of Theologos (1088). Then came the flourishing of shipping and trade, the blossoming of letters and hagiography, the unique architecture, “responsible” for what is probably the most beautiful Chora of the Aegean. And all around Chora and Monastiri, a fascinating island relief in the shape of a seahorse, with successive bays, cool valleys and beautiful beaches. Another Patmos waiting to be discovered by walking along its paths…

The Historic Stone Pavement of 1794

The development of the port of Skala in the mid-18^th century was rapid and the need for fast communication with Chora, where the merchants and the Karavokyrians had their mansions, was imperative.

The Skala – Chora cobblestone road was inaugurated in 1794 as a great project for its time. The historic path still today connects Skala, with the cave of the Apocalypse, the Patmiada School and of course Chora.

From the square of Skala I follow the main alley towards Chochlakas and turn left where the chapel of Agio Pneuma (Holy Spirit) (1644) always stands open and welcoming. Passing by the market in Platanos, I finally come out on the Skala – Chora road and meet the beginning of the historic cobbled street opposite me. After the first arduous climb and among the dense pine forest, which was created and developed with the care of the monks, the Kastromonastiron and the neoclassical mansions of the captains who, wanting to see their ships from above and their houses from Skala, built their spacious three-storey mansions on the north side of Chora, the so-called Frydi. The higher I go uphill, the more spectacular the relief of northern Patmos and the surrounding islands and islets that float around it becomes. Chiliomodi, Sklava, Sklavopoula and the islands of Arki and Lipsi interrupt the blue vastness. The cobbled path comes out on the tarmac road and continues in the same direction towards the hospital and Chora, but a short detour, on the left, towards Apocalypse (following the dirt road or the smaller dirt path that leads directly to the enclosure of the cave, 80 metres before on the tarmac) is necessary. It was here, in the Sacred Cave, that John the Theologian (94-96 AD), the beloved disciple of Christ, fled into exile and, by divine inspiration, dictated to his disciple Prochorus the prophetic text of Revelation, the last book of the New Testament and the greatest text of eschatological literature, with timely messages of patience, repentance and protection of nature.

The Cave is located at the lowest point of the Apocalypse building complex. Descending the steps I pass by the chapels of Agios Nikolaos and Agios Artemios built in the early 16^th century, while next to the Holy Cave is the church of Agia Anna, built, according to tradition, by Osios Christodoulos himself to honour the mother of the Virgin Mary, the mother of the Emperor Anna of Dalassini and his own mother, who also bore the name Anna.

The great icon of Thomas Vathas, which was created in Venice in 1596 and adorns the iconostasis of the Holy Cave, is the most characteristic depiction of the Vision of John.

Above the Apocalypse is the new building of the Patmian Ecclesiastical School, founded in 1713 by Makarios Kalogeras and continues to operate until today.

Patmiada, whose first buildings were built at the beginning of the 17^th century south of the Sacred Cave, played an important spiritual role throughout its history. In Patmiada rare books were collected, great spiritual teachers taught and people with active participation in the struggle for liberation graduated. Patmion Emmanuel Xanthos, one of the founders of the Society of Friends, graduated from Patmiada. The new buildings of the School were built in 1947 with contributions from Patmos in America and the Monastery of Theologos.

A few meters after the entrance of the School, I find the historic cobblestone road again.

which following the same direction approaches Chora passing by the imposing Tower of Zora to end up at the end of the bus but also at the end of the dry road. With a small S (turning right and left) I reach the Town Hall Square with the imposing mansion of Kalligas and the magnificent building of the Town Hall (1884). A few meters further on is the house of Xanthos. In the square with the bust of Filikos and the panoramic view of Ikaria, Samos and the Asia Minor coast, the service of Niptiras (a world exclusive shared by Patmos and Jerusalem) takes place on Easter Thursday with a ritual that refers directly to Byzantium.

The narrow uphill alley to the east passes by the Italian Agora and under the walls of the Monastery, while on the eastern edge of Chora stand proudly the historic Mills…

Starting point: Skala Square (altitude 5m)

Finish: Town Hall Square (altitude 185m)

Altitude difference: 180 metres

Route length: 2000 meters

General direction: south

Time: 35 minutes

Slope: 9%

MILLS OF CHORA – SKALA (Consolato district) – The Aporthiano path

The second trademark of Chora, after the Kastromonastirio of John the Theologian, are the windmills in the east. And the oldest photo or engraving of Chora to see the Mills will never be missing. Below the Mills, now maintained with great care, begins the old path (there is a clear sign) connecting Chora to Skala. This path is called Aporthiano, (it takes its name from the eastern neighbourhood of Chora, Aporthiana), and was the main communication road between Chora and Skala before the construction of the paving. In a north-northwest direction it passes by the small chapel of Ai Vlasis and descends towards the southern districts of Skala, offering a unique view of the closed Gulf and the rarest and most unusual view of Chora. Sycamore trees, almond trees, prickly pears and masterly dry stone walls adorn the simple landscape up to the plateau of Perdikaris. Leaving on the left the estate with the abandoned mansion, the pine trees and the eucalyptus trees, I head towards Oxoskala and Apalonia to finally descend towards Consolato and the sea.

A few meters before the small sandy beach in Consolato, it is worth a short detour to the hill where the chapel of Agia Paraskevi dominates, which is one of the most characteristic images of Skala in the harbor area, lit up at night.

The chapel of Agia Paraskevi clinging on the rock gives another wonderful view of the enclosed bay of Skala and the sea of Chochlakas with the impressive sunset…

Starting point: Mills (altitude 180m)

Finish: Consolato (altitude 0m)

Altitude difference: -180 metres

Route length: 1700 meters

General direction: north

Time: 30 minutes

Slope: -10%

DIAKOFTI – PSILI AMMOS

Descending the steep slope, I approach Diakofti, the narrowest and flattest strip of land on the island. With the terrifying twin earthquake of 7.5R  and 7R (1955) in the sea area  Amorgos – Astypalea, a tidal wave rose up and reached here, pushing the sea over the narrow isthmus, destroying the fertile soil that over the years began to yield again. Small olive trees on the edge of the mountain, bushes of fruit and vegetables, stacked bundles, parked donkeys and a traditional threshing floor bring the small strip of land between the two seas back to life.

The area is also known as Stavros from the elevated chapel that has been standing here since the time of the pirates. According to tradition, at the time of the pirate raids some girls took refuge in the church and were saved when the wall of the sanctuary opened and they passed through it, escaping the hands of the corsairs.

It is not excluded that this is one of the reasons for the great festival that is held on the eve of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross (14 September) with delicacies, traditional music and dancing until the early hours of the morning, a festival that essentially marks the end of summer…

The shallow gulf of Stavros, the lake wolverines, the flocks of semi-wild geese and the view of Mount Kynopas prepare the mood for walking on the sandy beach.

The road ends at the small taverna of Diakofti in the south of the bay and the well-marked path to the most secluded and unique beach of Patmos begins. With fresh water, I set off on the twenty-five minute walk along the southern shoreline of the bay leading to the open Icario. The trail climbs gently uphill in an untouched landscape full of aspen, skinnies and bushes in the small gullies. It passes high above inaccessible beaches, by the sandy beach Cortesi and turns left towards the highest point of the trail. The route is accompanied musically by the bells of the goats grazing carelessly before they end up becoming specialities at the small tavern of Psili Ammos.

A characteristic fork defines the continuation of the route. The well-marked path continues straight ahead while a white arch indicates a left-hand path suitable for more advanced hikers. These are essentially two variations of the same route. Following the left branch of the trail saves some time by moving down a steep downhill section that requires attention to the slippery parts. Following the longer branch of the fork, I walk longer but on a much more gradual path that descends like a snake breaking the slope of the mountain, while offering spectacular views of Psili Ammos and the open sea. The two paths merge again a few meters before I hit the sand where I am greeted by a noisy generator (there is no electricity and a strong cell phone signal in Psili Ammos), but fortunately the noise is limited there and in no way reaches the beach. After passing by lying donkeys and the lazy dogs of the taverna resting in the shade of the trees, the splendour of Psili Ammos, the beach that is unlike any other on Patmos, will be fully revealed to me. With its characteristics of giant tamarisks and fine-grained sand, it is the windiest beach since it is exposed to the north wind of the Icarian Sea.

The silent waves of Psili Ammos are ideal for games (small surfing or body surfing) but also sometimes dangerous, since they are more than two meters high. When there are apnea conditions or winds from the south, the sandy beach takes the form of the shore in the blue lake.

At 5pm, whenever the boats leave for Skala, the lucky ones who chose to come on foot remain in Psili Ammos (usually until the magical sunset). When the sun touches the sea or hides behind the mountains of Ikaria everything is coloured differently.

The experience in Psili Ammos does not end here. The return – especially after the end of the arduous climb – in conditions of absolute serenity, is one of those moments when everyone can think about how beautiful life is and how much it is worth simply living it.

Starting point: Tavern Diakofti (altitude 0m)

Finish: Psili Ammos (altitude 0m)

Highest point of the route: 70 metres

Route length: 1800 meters

General direction: southwest

Time: 30 minutes

The cool Gardens of Patmos

The nunnery of Evangelismos is located on the southwestern side of Chora. In 1613, Nikiforos Hartophylaikas, abbot of the Monastery of Theologos, built a hermitage over the valley of the Osios’s gardens with a small church dedicated to St. Luke. In 1937 new buildings were added by Amphilochios Makris, who founded the nunnery and dedicated it to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary. Outside the monastery’s precinct (on the left) the path to the gardens of the Saint begins. Two left forks lead to it, the first to the hermitage of Vrastes (now used as the monastery’s guesthouse) and the second lower down to Agia Paraskevi of Kavos. Unpassable for years by cars, the green valley of the Gardens has remained almost unchanged over the years. The downhill path circles the oversized Monastery of Evangelismos, passes a forest of pine trees with ecstatic cicadas and descends towards the foaming sea (when the usual north winds blow), and the seats of the Virgin Mary of Mandalaki, and the Virgin Mary of Kykkos that from the 17^th century stand amidst primitive crops and archetypal land reclamation works, giving the impression that time has stopped here. The area of Kipi has been cultivated since the time of Osios Christodoulos (which explains the existence of so many hermitages that hosted monks-farmers) and is full of dry land and a large well that, according to tradition, was created by Οsios Christodoulos himself to keep this area alive as a witness of the past.

A family comes down from Chora every day to tend the bushes, water the lemon trees, feed the cattle (they also hold the keys to the Virgin Mary of Mandalaki). The chrysanthemums and the basil plants flood with colours and fragrances the otherwise blessed atmosphere of the Gardens. Low in the sea, the reeds sway and the sea fans are fragrant. Higher up the hill is the restored Monastery of the Holy Anargyroi (16^th century) and further south, the seat of St. Paraskevi of Kavos, with part of the church’s cloister consisting of boulders with ancient chiseling, according to the tourist Guerin.

The sun is lowering and the west-facing gardens of Osios are coloured by its violet light. Near the Virgin of Cyclades, the alternative return route begins with the trail kissing its way up to the Annunciation from the north side of the valley…

Starting point: Monastery of the Annunciation (altitude 120m)

Finish: Kipi Beach (altitude 0)

Altitude difference: -120 metres

Route length: 1000 meters

General direction: western

Time: 30 minutes

Slope: 11%

The Koumaria (Arbutus) Forests and the artificial lake

In the northern part of the island is the beach of Lambi. It got its name from the glow that the coloured pebbles with their silky texture give off in the sunlight. Before going downhill to Lampi, where the tavern “Koumaria” is located, there is the famous arbutus forest, another small miracle of nature on the Aegean rock.

To the left of the tavern starts the uphill path that passes through two successive forests of kuma tree and after the characteristic wooden door leads to the spacious plateau of the Old Mantra with the small stable. There are two options from this plateau. Heading south (right) the path passes through the opening of the dry stone wall and leads easily to the chapel of Agios Dimitris with its unique dovecote view. From there, following the dirt road, one can reach the road Kampos – Panagia Geranou.

Following an east-southeast course, I pass to the right of the iron fence of the corral where a beautiful route begins, parallel to the ravine that ends at the dam of Geranos. Large amounts of rainwater gather every year and become trapped in the natural cavity whose outlet was blocked by a large dam. When the water is too much, it starts to take over the gorge… The artificial lake and the existence of fresh water between the mountains creates a very unusual and at the same time charming picture. Eight hundred metres from the dam is the road from Kampos to Panagia Geranou.

Starting point: Taverna Koumaria, Koumaro (altitude 55m)

Finish: Geranos Dam (altitude 45m)

Highest point of the route: 105m

Route length: 1800 meters

General direction: southeast

Time: 50 minutes

PROPHET ILIAS & THE MAGICIAN KYNOPAS: Olympus and Kissavos of Patmos

PROPHET ILIAS (272m)

Prophet Ilias is the highest mountain of Patmos. It would not be possible that a church dedicated to his name could not be located here.

But on the God-fearing island, on its highest peak, there is more than just an ordinary chapel… A small castle encloses the beautiful one-aisle church of Prophet Ilias of Thesbitos and the cells of the hermitage, which dates back to 1746 according to the inscription that survives at the entrance of the enclosure. Following the asphalt road to Prophet Ilias and continuing on foot along the concrete road after 1000 meters I find myself in front of the caste door of the hermitage, which remains always closed. But the view to Chora from the west and the amazing sunset on the open sea will more than compensate for the uphill walk…

Every year on July 19, Vespers is celebrated and on July 20, the mass is celebrated and the small church and the courtyard is filled with believers who now go uphill with their cars…

Starting point: Beginning of the cement road (altitude 150m)

Finish: Prophet Ilias (altitude 272m)

Altitude difference: 122 metres

Route length: 1000 meters

Time: 25 minutes

Slope: 12%

THE MAGICIAN KYNOPAS (252m)

If Prophet Ilias is likened to Mount Olympus on the island, then Kissavos is definitely to Kynopas…

A voracious quarry has been “swallowing” for years the rival awe of Prophet Ilias, the mountain of Genoupa. According to the tradition of the locals, John the Theologian stoned the anti-Christian magician Kynopas, who lived on the mountain opposite Prophet Ilias, and his body has been lying still in the harbour of Skala ever since, forming a very dangerous reef.

The traditions of the locals find fertile ground in the way the beautiful mountain is treated today, in the caves of which hermit monks practiced for years… Year after year the relentless machinery of the quarry digs and humiliates the mountain and already the wounds are visible from Psili Ammos.

To climb Genoupa you will have to pass through the controlled quarry zone and most probably you will not be allowed to enter.

If you finally get permission to pass, you will walk for 15 minutes across a harsh lunar landscape of dust and abandoned truck carcasses until you emerge onto the ridge of the mountain and begin to take in its insurmountable grandeur. A real scotch shower…

During the Italian occupation, the Italians built military buildings and a polygon on the top of the mountain to control the sea passages from there, especially to Leros, where it was their big base.

The small path ascends gently, passes two military buildings with Italian finesse that today house Parisians goats and ends at the polygon at the highest point of the route.

The view from up here is breathtaking. I am now between three seas with the bay of Stavros and Psili Ammos to the east, the whole ridge of western Patmos to the north and the open sea to the south and west.

After the polytunnel the path disappears. With great care I move towards the edge of the cape of Genoupa among musky thyme trees and dense skinnies. Here, at the edge, the unobstructed views and blessed scents are complemented by unsurpassed rock gardens that even the best garden architect could not have envisioned and designed…

Starting point: Patmos quarries (altitude 140m)

Finish: Cape Genoupa (altitude 180m)

Highest point of the route: 252m

Route length: 1200 meters

General direction: southeast

Time: 50 minutes