I gaze in awe at the Karteros Pass. I had heard so much about it. They told me it was difficult. Snow remains until the end of June.

My legs start to tremble, images of falling flash through my mind. I sit on the edge of the cliff, trying to calculate the distance, the slope, and calm my heartbeat. The view of this steep passage, two-thirds of which is covered with snow, is essentially a rickety gully with stones at an incline of almost 40% and an altitude difference of about 200 meters. It is the only passage from Gamila to Siadi of Miga for those who want to complete a circular crossing of Tymfi.

I take a few photos and start preparing my equipment. I congratulate myself on having made it this far and consider starting my return to the refuge.

But let’s take things from the beginning: how, who, and why we ended up here.

I have good news, said my companion and friend Yannis excitedly on the phone 10 days ago. A group I know that organizes special mountain excursions has planned to cross Tymfi, taking a circular route from Konitsa-Kerasia-Gamila-Astraka-Karteros Passage-Siadi of Miga-Konitsa. Just as we had dreamed, and we would even be doing it with friends and guides. What do you say? Shall we sign up?

I hung up the phone and searched the internet for the registration form on the Alpikos Rythmos website.

On Friday afternoon, May 30, Yannis, Dimitris, and I arrived in Konitsa. The meeting with the rest of the group was set for tomorrow, Saturday, May 31, at 7:30 a.m. at the iconic bridge.

That night, I had trouble sleeping, with many thoughts about the accessibility of the trail, the difficulties due to the high altitude (about 2000 m), the temperatures (hot at low altitudes, cold at high altitudes), the team’s climbing pace, but above all, the passage of Karteros.

At 6:30 a.m., from the balcony of the Aoos Hotel, I gaze at the unique peak of Gamila, the highest peak of Tymfi (2,497 m). How many people has this rocky, hard-hearted lady enchanted with her beauty and made her lovers, whose ascent has become one of the most popular mountaineering destinations in Epirus and her reflection in the waters of the dragon lake, the most Instagram-worthy photo.

Everything is ready and the commemorative photo with the 12 companions marks the start.

First goes Nikos, the team leader and a very good connoisseur of the trail. One by one, we follow, initially on the first few meters of asphalt road alongside the river, heading towards the parking lot where visitors to the Holy Monastery of Stomio park their vehicles. On the left side of the parking lot, a passageway can be seen. The sparse red markings on trees and rocks lead us onto the wooded trail.

Happy that our route is downhill and among trees, we strike up conversations with our neighbors. Some (quite a few) have come from Athens, others from Trikala, Florina, and our trio from Thessaloniki. All of us are lovers of mountains and strong emotions. Angelos, the team’s second guide, stays behind as the “sweep”.

At a low altitude of 400 m, we cross dense forests of arbutus, holm oak, filicaria, koutsoupia, plane trees, schina, sclithra, and willows. As we gain altitude, at 750-1,000 m, we encounter many species of deciduous trees, oaks, maples, hornbeams, and a little higher at 1000-1600 m, a magnificent mixed forest begins with firs, black pines, beeches, and dwarf cedars. At higher altitudes, huge rockroses grow, and at the end, endless subalpine and alpine meadows with many rare plants spread out.

Our route continues uphill, quite demanding and with frequent stops for breathers, water, and short breaks. Our goal is to reach the Astraka refuge at dusk, where we will spend the night, after first climbing up to the dragon lake.

The last views from above of the meandering Aoos River compensate us as we change direction and enter deeper into the mountain. The mountainous mass of Tymfi is a huge mountain system of towering peaks, vertical cliffs, alpine meadows, endless scree slopes, gorges, chasms, forests, dragon lakes, seasonal pools, and rivers, forming a landscape strongly reminiscent of the Alps. Tyfmi is rightly considered the most majestic mountain in the Pindos range. It covers an area of 350,000 acres and stretches over a perimeter of 60 km. Its highest peak is Gamila (2,497 m), followed by Karteros (2,478 m), Megala Litharia (2,467 m), Goura (2,466 m), Astraka (2,432 m), Ploskos (2,377 m), Tsouka Rossa (2,376 m), Krevati (2,375 m), Samari (2,297 m), Lapatos (2,254 m), Tzoumako (2,157 m) and many more. To the north of Tymfi lies the Aoos Valley, which separates it from Smolikas and Trapezitsa. To the west and south, below Astraka, are the Vikos Gorge, the Mega Lakkos Gorge, and Voidomatis, while to the east, the slopes descend more gently towards Gyftokampos.

The weather in alpine landscapes is changeable. Strong winds and heavy raindrops force us to stop and put on our raincoats. But no one complains and no one moves from the viewpoint of the opposite peak, Trapezitsa, as the sun graces us with its midday rays. The rain stops as suddenly as it came, and the earth smells wonderful as we cross endless fields of daffodils.

The sound of a wild goat immobilizes us and fills us with optimism for these small, free creatures that allow us to coexist in their space.

It is 5:00 p.m. and we have reached the starting point for the climb to Drakolimni.

Some decide to continue on to the refuge, while some of us romantics choose to climb up to enjoy the sunset as the red star of the mountain is reflected in the waters of Drakolimni.

Suddenly, we feel like we are on a main street in a big city. Groups, friends, dogs, come down happily shouting and singing. They are happy that they made it and they transmit their positive energy to us. In a few hours, we will all become friends, eating and drinking in the lit halls of the refuge, but also dancing on its unique terrace under the starry sky.

16.7 km is a lot for one day when you have to climb over 1,700 meters. But we did it, even if it took us 12 hours.

Sunday, June 1, we all enjoy coffee and breakfast as we watch the first light of dawn on the spectacular rocks of Astraka. However, it appears that some members of the group will not continue the crossing. The group that will stay at the refuge will return via another, shorter route, while the eight of us will continue as planned.

At 7:30 a.m., we take one last souvenir photo at the entrance to the refuge and set off.

Initially, the route passes through alpine meadows. We cross streams and sheepfolds, with Astrakas always on our right. We are excited to embark on new routes and are often impressed by the unique geological phenomena we encounter.

Aren’t these like dragon eggs?, I wonder aloud as I photograph huge round rocks. It is something I will later mention to my colleague, geologist Vasilis Melofos. Perhaps it is something very important for the geomorphology of the area. Everyone agrees and waits for explanations (which are not long in coming and are presented in the article by Dr. Christos L. Stergiou, which will be published on our website on August 30!)

Our destination is the summit of Gamila. The spectacular, imposing mass of Ploskos follows us continuously on our left. A few souvenir photos at the summit, where it is difficult to stand upright due to the wind, and a quick return to the foot of the mountain to continue our journey.

We traverse the ridge of Gamila II. As we slowly gain altitude, the path becomes indistinct, the loose ground makes walking difficult and slows us down. There are no markings. We maintain constant visual contact with Nikos, our guide, who maneuvers his way along the path and we follow him. The sun is up and we can feel the heat. But every time we stop, we need our jackets. Putting them on and taking them off is tiring but necessary. We are constantly moving along the ridge of Tymfi, we are in its heart, surrounded by mountains that rise up fiercely but protectively. A feeling of freedom but also humility in front of the grandeur of our country’s nature.

Soon the descent begins. Hands are needed for support as the foot cannot find sufficient ground to tread on. Nikos looks like a small dot in front as he stops under a huge rock. I am already beginning to feel uncomfortable as I suspect that we have reached the Karteros Passage. Thoughts of whether I should have stayed at the refuge are swirling around in my head.

Fortunately, thoughts have no voice. Soon we all reach Nikos. He is sitting on a ledge, gazing at the cliff. We are at the Karteros Pass. It is one thing to hear about it and another to see it in front of you. Angelos approaches me and gives me instructions on how to use the helmet and ice axe. Now I understand why they gave them to us and we carried them throughout the entire hike. Their time has come. Most of the scree is covered with snow. Only a narrow strip on the left, next to the steep rocks, is uncovered, which we will choose for the descent.

Nikos and the three boys in the group go first. I follow with the two girls and Angelos. We begin the descent. The technique is to remain upright, brake with our heels, keep our distance so as not to cause problems for those ahead of us, and dig our ice axes deep into the snow for support.

Small and large stones roll chaotically under my feet and my body constantly changes position as I switch hands on the ice axe. I try to stay upright, but the slope is such that I am forced to lower my center of gravity and bend my knees for greater balance. Step by step, point by point. Maneuvering right and left. Some protrusions on the rock to the left are valuable handholds. I gather my courage and continue. My movements are now mechanical. Time does not exist. I am not thinking about anything. Everything is rocks, everything is snow.

But everything comes to an end. So did the Karteros Passage, which took us over an hour to descend.

Leaning against a rock and looking up at the mountain peaks and the huge slope we had just descended, I feel proud of my performance and my mental strength to manage the challenge, overcome my fears, maintain control, and face difficulties.

At this point, we have the most beautiful and delicious meal in this wild beauty, grateful for the experience we were offered.

Siadi of Miga, this much-photographed location, is our next stop. It is no coincidence that everyone talks about it and that everyone would like to spend a night there. It is truly wonderful to sleep in a forest clearing, with only the moon and stars to light the way, and to wake up to the first rays of the sun facing the imposing peak of Gamila.

After Siadi, the downhill path disappears into dense forests and you really hope it will end at some point because your legs are no longer obeying you. The descent to the Holy Monastery of Stomio is therefore arduous. A short stop for water and then a walk along a dirt road to the bridge of Konitsa.

25.9 km is a lot for one day when you have to descend about 2,100 meters. But we made it, even if it took us 14 hours.

Hiking on this mountain is an unforgettable experience for every traveler, nature lover, mountaineer, and explorer.