It is fortunate that Syrrako is built far from busy roads. It remained lonely and remote and thus escaped the flattening of tourism and “development”, and kept its identity unchanged. Surrounded by deep gorges and rugged mountain peaks, it reveals its face only at the last moment. Because Syrrako is not a pass. It is a destination. You don’t get there by accident, you have to want it. And what is more important: one must know why one is going and what one expects to find in this place. It’s the pure nature of the Tzoumerka and Pindos. It is the winds that descend high from the Peristeri peaks. It is the pastures and the rachoules, which every summer reverberate with the barking of the dogs guarding the cattle, with the elaborate whistles of the chobani and the sweet sounds of the thousands of bells. There are the streams, the ravines and the crystal springs, in and out of the village. But above all, it is the soul of this place, proud and proud as the high mountain peaks, hardy, hardy and resilient as the chiseled stone of its houses, hospitable, reverent and sensitive, as befits those who talk to nature and the earth every day.

DESTINATION: SYRRAKO

It is true, it took a long time for our footsteps to take the uphill turns to Syrrako. So far we had only reached the other famous stone-built village, Kalarrytes. Although unseen behind mountains, Syrrako was actually right next to us, within a stone’s throw.

Only an hour’s drive separates it from Kalarrytes, with a nice path that at times balances dangerously on the vertiginous cuts of the majestic gorge of the Chrousia River. We didn’t dare. We promoted lack of time as a convenient excuse. Nor did we bother to drive the 20 difficult but so exciting asphalt miles that circle through the canyon and connect the two villages. So Syrrako remained for years a place unknown, a wish unfulfilled …

At the beginning of September, a phone call from a subscriber of the magazine from Athens managed to shake the stillness of our memory of Syrrako, filling us with an irresistible nostalgia for this legendary corner of the continent. He spoke with such enthusiasm about the magic of the place and the hospitality of the people that we would call the Bitsios Guesthouse in Syrrako that very afternoon.

– It will be a great pleasure for us to host you, Poppy Bitsiou replied with exuberant cordiality.

At the same time her husband Panagiotis gives us details for our easier access to the area. I follow on the map the successive villages that she says we will meet, starting either from Baldouma or Ioannina. My gaze, however, remains fixed on a dirt mountain route that starts just outside Mikro Peristeri and then disappears into the mountains. Its end is Syrrako.

– I don’t recommend this route, Panagiotis tries to dissuade us. It is a lonely and deserted road, without villages, climbing at high altitudes, between highlands and peaks that exceed 2000 meters. It can be impassable from the rains or even impassable still, from possible landslides. And there is always the fear of getting lost.

Unwittingly, Panagiotis had listed the most convincing arguments, not to dissuade us but to challenge us even more.

– After all, it won’t be the first time we’ll be lost in Greece, I replied, laughing.

Mikro Peristeri, refueling, two and a half kilometers later we finally leave the National Road Metsovo-Ioannina, we turn left for Megalo Peristeri, asphalt road narrow, uphill, we cross the river Arachthos, sign left for Kalarrytes, small settlements Kastri and Karyofyto, the dirt road begins. 10 km after the National Road we meet a chapel, we turn right and after five and a half km we find a stone barn and watering trough in front of us. It is afternoon. A few shepherds are boarding a pickup truck and preparing to depart. At the sight of the strange car, unknown in the area, they stop,

– Where to, patriots?

– We’re going to Syrrako, aren’t we?

– You’re going well, but don’t get lost. This road leads to the Kalarrytes.

He makes diligent efforts to describe to me the exact route through the mountains, but there is a lot of ambiguity in his words, which is quite common in similar cases. We bid them farewell and continue. I have the feeling that the man lacks contagiousness. The possibility of lacking intelligence I rule out completely.

– Do you understand what he said? Anna asks me anxiously.

– Of course, I reassure her. Besides, we have a map. (A little later I would find out quite belatedly though – the usefulness of the map).

The road starts to climb noticeably, the road surface becomes increasingly stony, the light 4×4 bounces around constantly, the route ceases to be suitable for a conventional car. All around us the field of vision fills with bare mountains and gorges, the landscape is desolate and inhospitable, it fills us with melancholy, but exudes a strange charm.

Four and a half kilometres after the stop and our meeting with the cattle breeders, we come across the characteristic closed left-hand bend that they have described to us. We follow it without hesitation, avoiding the straight ahead. About 700 metres further on, a new barn appears on the left of the road and, almost a kilometre later, we are at a junction. The road forks, one section continuing diagonally to the left, while the other turns right.

– And now where are we going? Anna asks.

– Here’s the dilemma, I reply. If this is the main fork marked on the map, we must turn right towards Syrrako. But as far as I can see, the road seems to veer too far to the right. I reasonably believe that we have not yet reached the junction, which forks right to Syrrako and left to Kalarrytes. But if we don’t meet it after 3-4 km, we’ll turn back. So with this in mind, I suggest we continue initially to the left.

We are already at one of the highest points of the route, on the western foothills of Mount Lakmos, known as Peristeri. Its towering peak, at an altitude of 2,295 metres, rises imposingly, very close to us in the east. Endless pastures all around us, with successive smooth plateaus and slopes, a mild and sweet relief. This peaceful picture is complemented by small flocks of sheep grazing quietly and carelessly. A wonderful icy water gushes out in a strong flow through a thick hose, right next to the road. The existence of so much water in mid-September at this altitude is incredible. The same phenomenon is repeated a little further down, when a new flow of water appears through a stony and – seemingly – overgrown gully. Two and a half kilometres after the junction we pass a large barn, strategically surrounded by scarecrows. From a distance they look like motionless chobos, leaning against their glutes. It’s an ingenious invention of the ranchers to keep the wolves away from their pens. But already the distance from the junction is growing, it is obvious that it was the hub of our route. confirmation comes from two ranchers, a kilometre down the road.

– And why turn back? You’d better keep going towards Kalarrytes. Then there’s tarmac waiting for you, is their opinion.

– So there, my predictions proved correct, I say to Anna.

– Yes, just like the predictions of the Oracle of Delphi, she replies.

Calm now, we continue on this unknown and extremely interesting route to Kalarrytes. Two kilometres later, an unexpected image emerges in this wilderness. Sitting down, in front of a humble hut, an old woman is knitting her handiwork. Her only companion, a few yards behind, is a nice chomping dog. We greet her politely and ask to take her picture. Surprised at first by our suggestion, the old lady reacts negatively.

– How can you photograph me like that?

– This way it has value, I urge her, in mountain clothes.

We thank her and leave her to the peace of the evening. The dog behind her still remains unperturbed.

At some point, 12 km after the junction where the mistake was made, we come across a sign for the first time, indicating left to Trikoula(!) and straight on at 5 km to Kalarrytes. We are already in familiar territory, from our previous visit to the beautiful village. We go down the annoying dirt road, pass outside the village without stopping and, finally, after so many hours, we find the asphalt again. Nine and a half kilometres later we turn right uphill to Syrrako, with the wide valley of the Arachthos at our feet and the magnificent massif of Tzourmerka, with the towering Kakarditsa in front of us. We pass in awe beneath an imposing rock, which seems to balance menacingly over our heads. It is as if we are passing through a huge gate, erected by nature before Syrakko. A few minutes later, at the bend of the neck, the northern horizon opens up. This stone masterpiece called Sirrako looms opposite us, sunk in shadow. The austere rectangular volumes of its houses suffocatingly occupy every inch of land on the steep slope. A few kilometres to the south-east, the twin stone-built village of Kalarrytes reveals its presence, flatter, more spread out and illuminated for a while by the setting sun.

As we descend, we call our waiting friends on the phone.

– We see you across from us, says Poppy cheerfully. Before you reach the entrance to the village, turn left down the road as the sign indicates.

We turn left as it says, for 500 meters we move on asphalt and then, for 1.7 km, on a passable dirt road. Poppy and Panagiotis welcome us in the parking area above the guesthouse.

AT THE GUESTHOUSE OF BITSIOS

– After so many hours you will be tired and hungry, Panagiotis says. So come on, let’s have a cigarette, get yourselves together.

The courtyard of the guesthouse is paved and has been developed in different levels, creating small private spaces, so that each group of guests has autonomy. These spaces are scattered, either in shady parts of the courtyard or in places with open horizons. We choose one such balcony with a stunning view of the mountains opposite. Right next to us, in every gust of wind, we are touched by the quince-laden branches of a quince tree. Below the balcony extends an area with a well-tended vegetable garden, while at the back of the courtyard a vineyard is filled with its ripe and delicious fruits. Colorful flowers and fragrant basil sprout from every part of the courtyard, planted in pots, on the ground or on old stone slips that have been converted into pots by Poppy. In this idyllic setting stands the imposing bulk of the guesthouse, a mansion built in 1864 by the merchant ancestors of Poppy. Large arches on the façade give plasticity and grace to the stone fortress construction of the three-storey massive structure, while a series of windows fill the interior with plenty of light.

The ground floor is a stunning space that, when completed, will be an ideal gathering room for the guests of the guesthouse. The first floor is dominated by two large rooms with fireplaces and kitchens, traditionally furnished, which can accommodate 3-4 people each. Finally, the tenth floor is occupied by three extremely spacious rooms, with independent heating, TV, fine furnishings and unobstructed views.

As night falls on the balcony, the chill at an altitude of 1150 metres becomes noticeable, but this in no way affects our decision to stay outdoors. Besides, after a while, the clear dark sky is wearing its dazzling outfit, decorated with myriad diamonds. We clink our glasses with Panagiotis’s wonderful tsipouraki and allow ourselves to enjoy the excellent delicacies brought to us by Mrs. Poppy: traditional Epirus cheese pie, amazing chicken pie with cassava and pepper filling, delicious cannelloni, local cheese and tomatoes from the garden.

– Save some room, because later I’ll bring you lamb in the oven with potatoes, our hostess says, and for a moment we get the impression she’s joking. Fortunately, none of us give in to temptation and so the first night in Syrrako passes in absolute peace, without any nightmares.

IN THE MOUNTAINS AND THE STARS OF SYRRAKO

“I want the taps, the ravine, my sweet old loves, to offer me their immortal waters as medicine”.

Mr. Krystallis.

Before daybreak we are on foot, our desire to know the place is great. Defying the penetrating chill we sit on the balcony of the courtyard. In two minutes our hosts appear.

– With the tiredness you had last night, I expected you to wake up at noon, says Panagiotis. I, however, do not intend to inconvenience you. We’ll take it easy in Syrrako.

– We’d prefer to get to know the region first, I reply. After all, a significant part of yesterday’s route is still unknown to us.

Here comes Poppy with the coffee and a hearty breakfast. Far away in the background of the southern horizon the peaks of Xerovouni and Tzoumerka are blushing. We start without delay. Poppy abandons all her work and joins us, filling a large bag with pies and various goodies.

One kilometer after the detour to the guest house we go up the dirt road to the right towards the mountain and after 500 meters we come across the stone-built chapel of Ai-Giorgis (St George). In the paved courtyard we are amazed by the spectacle that surrounds us from all sides. To the south, the awesome mountain range of Tzoumerka and on their lush foothills, the Pramanda. Further away, Xerovouni and to the north the bare Syrrakan and Kalarritan mountains. Lower down, to the bottom of the south-western horizon stretches the vast valley of Kalarrytiko, a tributary of Arachthos. Even from so high up, the sound of water can be heard.

The chapel of Ai-Giorgis is a place particularly dear to the inhabitants of the two villages. The cobbled road that connected the place with Ioannina used to pass through here and it was here that they would unveil and welcome the strangers, their arrival being made known by the ringing of the bell. The chapel is dated 1817 on the exonarthex and was restored in 1940 by Vasilios Nikas. But let’s enjoy for a moment the brilliant writing of Kostas Krystallis about the chapel of Ai-Giorgis and its area.

“The chapel of Agios Georgios was built two hundred years ago by the Syrrakans and Kalarritans together, as a common place of prayer for the travellers from among them. For they consider this saint as the protector of their strata. On 23 April, the Syracusans and Kalarritans celebrate here in a spectacular manner, when their young people are in the habit of fraternising (becoming vulgarians, brahmins, fraternisers).”

For the ridge of St. George, Krystallis writes that “sometimes it falls so much chion, that it is completely interrupted for two and three months or traffic. Because, apart from its great height, the ridge of St. George is exposed to the wind and especially to the north, which the locals call Baron, as blowing from the homonymous mountain from which the Kalarrytes lie. Here the winds meet and dominate all the winds and the windstorm is not absent, as in Malea of Laconia the storm is never absent.”

Describing his impressions of the area, Krystallis notes:

“We are already near Agios Georgios. We are about eight hours from Ioannina and only one hour from Kalarrυtes and Syrrako. And we are on Pindos, about 1500 meters above sea level. In front of me, wild, imposing, terrible scenes are already opening up, with snow-covered peaks, with ancient forests, with high cliffs, with giant rocks, with deep ravines, with wild animals and wild vultures. The valleys and rivers below seem to me to be abysmal deep. Back to Pindon I see between gorges the two great Vlach towns, Kalarrytes and Syrrako, like two twin brothers. The steep and jagged tops of the Tzoumerka mountains evoke in the heart of the beholder the rough and wild mountain feeling that the sight of the mysterious towers of Messainos evokes. The sky-high and snow-covered peak of Kakarditsa inspires the majesty and majesty of those, the divine, which seems diffused in the thieving songs of the people. The smooth and grassy slopes of the mountains of Syrrako, sometimes wooded, sometimes deforested, with a few livestock crags at the extremities, crossed by many streams and adorned with rich pastures, what else can they inspire but those intimate songs of the peasant life of the continental people and the same famous love songs of Ioannina? ”

We leave the magnificent landscape of Ai-Giorgis and ascend the gentle slopes of the reliable dirt road. Down low we gaze at the floor plan of Syrrako, as if we were in an airplane. About six kilometres further up we reach the Stani of Koraka, with the homonymous fountain below the road. A colossal and stunningly beautiful white chobo dog barks for a while, just to keep with tradition, but generally he is very friendly and nice and proves it by wagging his tail. the road is crossed by many streams and micro streams, all of which end up in the canyon of Chrusia.

At the 9th kilometre of the route, we meet a downhill road on the right, which ends back in the village. A few hundred metres further on, Krya Vrysi (Cold Spring) appears. The presence of water in this tree-less place is impressive.

Two kilometres further up, the beauty of the landscape forces us to stop. We are in a neck of land with a magnificent view to the north, where the dominant feature is a complex relief with dense grooves, while higher up the peak of Peristeri dominates, half-hidden in the clouds. On an anti-crowned neck, the roof and the white cross of the chapel of the Holy Apostles can just be seen, and closer still the red gable roof of a stable can be seen. Panagiotis stretches out his hand and with his finger points a spot to the north.

– See that neck there? That’s exactly where you lost the road.

At the 12th kilometer of the route we reach the chapel of the Holy Apostles. Few places in the region can compare to the unadulterated beauty of this neck of the woods. As we emerge at its highest point and take two steps to the west, the calm that has hitherto prevailed on the eastern slopes disappears as if by magic. A strong wind blows in our faces and leaves us stunned by this sudden climatic change.

– And nowhere else is it blowing, in this place it’s always windy, Poppy observes.

We, however, with our eyes turned to the west, admire the spectacle of the city and the lake of Ioannina in the shade of the horizon. Above the beautiful capital of Epirus, the long bulk of Mitsikeli, a huge natural wall of the city to the north, imposes itsel.

– This is the Elliniko Panorama, Panagiotis says enthusiastically, and he’s not wrong.

Stone-built and beautiful, the chapel is very low, one has to stoop quite a bit to enter the exonarthex and the nave, whose total length is not more than 7 meters.

Right next to it is a newly built iconostasis with pink chipped stone. We continue northwards, with a very strong and cold north wind, despite the sunshine. Opposite us is the outline of two twin peaks, Tsarkos and Friguronassa, which in Vlach means, the one that makes you cold. Already we meet the pen of Tsarkos and then the pen of Bliaros, both stone-built.

At the 17th km of the route we meet a road that descends to the left. On the map it looks dead-end, but Panagiotis informs us that it passes through Megali and Mikri Gotista and ends up on the National Road of Metsovo – Ioannina. A few minutes later we finally arrive at the decisive junction we missed on the way. We are only 19 kilometers from Syrrako, while with the detour from Kalarrytes we had to travel 40!

– And since we’ve come this far, I suggest we climb up the slopes of Peristeri for a while, says Panagiotis.

From where we are, you can clearly see the line that crosses the steep western slopes of Peristeri. The road is rough and rocky, but after three and a half kilometres it leads us to a magnificent neck of land, with vertiginous cliffs and an uninterrupted view to the north. There in the distance is the great lake of the Aoos Springs, above Metsovo. We are already at an altitude of 2000m, the peak of Peristeri rises massive, at a minimum distance higher than us.

But the difficult road does not stop here. It continues northwards and after 500m, strewn with sharp rocks, it leads us to a new neck with a view of the awesome NE ridge of the steep peak. 200 metres further on it stops definitively next to a stable. This is the furthest point where a wheeled vehicle can reach. Already the landscape is familiar, we have reached the rugged highlands of Aspropotamos above the gravel and behind the uniquely beautiful plateau of the legendary Verliga, where a year ago we had seen a part of the Acheloos springs.

After the wild beauty of the mountain we return to the peaceful pastures and take the road to Syrrako again, 7.4 km after the junction we meet the Sterpa spring, a few dozen meters down the road.

– Here we will stop for lunch, says Panagiotis.

It couldn’t have been a better choice. The fountain is made of stone, with a nice marble trough. The flow of water is amazing even more so the temperature; hands get cold, more than two or three sips are difficult to drink. We fill the cups and leave them in the sun. In this beautiful place, at an altitude of about 1700 meters, we enjoy the delicacies of Mrs. Poppy, with the unique sound of the perpetual tumbling of water from the trough’s spout. We return by the alternative downhill road, which leads us to the highest part of the village, after a total distance of 14 km, which is 5 km shorter than the route of the ascent.

As summer draws to a close and the sun’s trajectory lowers towards the west, the shade covers Syrrako earlier and earlier. It is the shadow cast by the solid ridge, whose main ridges, Brizas and Korakas, rise like a giant wall at a minimal distance and hide the western horizon from the village. It won’t be long before the first lights of Syrrako are lit. A few hours later the sky will light its own.

THE EAGLE NEST OF PINDOS

The first image we see every morning is the pink blossoms of fresh wild cyclamen, which Poppy has placed in a small glass of tsipouro, on the little table by the bed. It is such a humble detail, but it shows the sensitivity of this Syrrakan woman.

After the pastures, the mountains and the plateaus, it is time to wander to Syrrako, the famous eagle nest of Pindos. The cobbled path starts right after the door of the guesthouse. It will be the permanent and so dear companion of our steps at almost every point of the village. Besides, conventional roads in Syrrako are absent, wheeled vehicles have no place in the building fabric of the settlement, they remain parked at the entrances.

From the very first minutes of our tour, the qualitative difference is visible. Mechanical noises are unknown, exhaust fumes do not pollute the atmosphere, the only noise comes from the sound of our footsteps. Calm and carefree, we enjoy our walk in the village’s narrow streets, admiring the beautiful vaulted building of the spring with two stone troughs, built by the greatest Syrrako resident N. Palios in 1876, at the location “Two Fountains”. Further down we find the large house of the poet and fighter Georgios Zalokostas. A marble inset plaque notes his birth date, 1805, and his participation in the struggle of ‘ 21. Immediately afterwards we admire the house of the well-known poet Kostas Krystallis, a magnificent mansion built by Dimitrios Krystallis in 1876. The building today houses the Folklore Museum and the library of Syrrako and the courtyard is adorned with the statue of the romantic poet, who was killed at a very young age. From this point, a large part of the settlement is revealed to our eyes, with the magnificent School and the church of Panagia dominating the buildings.

Very close to us is the small square with the Hero of the Fallen Syrrakans and the busts of Ioannis Kolettis, who from 1844 to 1847 was the first parliamentary prime minister of free Greece, and Georgios Zalokostas with the medals on his chest.

But we have already reached the centre of the settlement, the imposing church of Agios Nikolaos, built above the central square of Syrrako. For the church we draw a few extracts from the eloquent description of the Syrrakan teacher, Deucalion Manjila:

“It is the largest building in the village. The Syrrakans of the time managed to honour their patron saint, the patron saint of the village, by building a church that was magnificent and elegant and in a way that emphasised and consolidated the religious feeling, with spiritual uplift and devotion. The building, externally and internally, is characterized by perfection, harmony and beauty. It has two entrances. The main entrance, on the south side, is covered with an elegant and beautiful dome, supported by two full-round columns made of honeycomb. The second entrance is on the west, roofed with a long canopy, supported by round stone columns and beautifully carved arches. At the west end of the porch is the ornate high-ceilinged bell tower with its three arches and equal number of bells. On the roof of the bell tower, an iron rooster-shaped weather vane indicates the direction of the wind. Stone terraces surround the church and the courtyard. The octagonal dome, with its narrow rectangular windows, rises on the ‘cavalcade’ of the quadrangular roof. On the roof of the dome there is a second iron weather vane.

The interior of the church is magnificent. Two rows of full-round columns of the triple church support the roof with its many domes and the dome. In addition to the high technique of the iconography on the icons and the carved silver chandeliers and candelabra, the carved wooden iconostasis and the gold-woven epitaph are impressive. Both are donations of the great benefactor of Syrrako, Spyridon Ioannis Baltazis. He sent the epitaph from Russia in 1896. The carved wooden iconostasis is a masterpiece of art, the work of the Metsovian Georgios Miliotis”.

On the outer wall of the sanctuary, a built-in plaque with an inscription mentions 1834 as the date of renovation. During the years of Krystallis, the church was burnt down and its reconstruction was completed in 1888.

Next to the church there is a traditional building with a guesthouse, which belongs to the Community, which rents it to a private person for use.

Lower down from the church, in the nice paved square, there is a tavern-café, in the shade of two plane trees, one of which is huge in size and centuries old.

After the church of Agios Nikolaos, we find the “Chania”, two large stone-built sheds with terraces, where in the past goods from the surrounding settlements were sold. The products were advertised with his loud voice by the delalos, high above the church of Panagia.

Next to Chania we make a stop at “Stavraetos”, the picturesque tavern-coffee shop of Mrs. Evridiki. The interior is very elegant with its wooden decoration and the large fireplace. The day is warm, we prefer the small, picturesque balcony, cheerfully decorated with flowers. The coffee that Mrs. Euridiki roasts for us is delicious. At 64 years of age, except for a period from 1969 to 1975, she has never left the village. Her little shop is open all year round, except between 10 December and the beginning of March, when she opens on holidays and weekends. From our strategic position on the café’s balcony, we can watch all the traffic in the centre of the village. Several Syrrako residents come and go on the cobbled streets, all equipped with their traditional glitter. Suddenly Panagiotis stands up happily to greet someone who is about to climb the steps of the café.

– Oh, what a pleasant surprise this is!

Come and join us and meet the people of the magazine ELLINIKO PANORAMA, who are preparing an article about our land.

On hearing Panagiotis’s address, we are sure that we are facing Deucalion Manjila, the Syrrakan teacher, who is well-known for his erudition, his research work and his vast knowledge of his place. Panagiotis had already told us so much about him that it was as if we knew him. What he had not described to us was the fascinating personality, as well as the eloquence of the teacher’s speech. In a matter of minutes he wins us over with his simplicity, humour and vivid accounts of his childhood memories in the village. Suddenly we have the feeling that the whole recent history of this place, the habits of the people, their attitudes at feasts, their joys and sorrows, the large population that lived permanently in the village all year round, the countless children at school who spoiled the world with their voices and their games, pass before our eyes in a series of vivid images, the housewives at the fountains that existed in every neighbourhood and the smell of their fermented bread, the difficulties in communication with the endless footpaths, the electricity that came to Syrrako in the mid-1980s and so much more, many and interesting, that could fill pages.

– But allow me to be your official guide to Syrrako for a while, Deucalion concludes. I know it is impossible to include everything, but at least you will have a global picture of the village.

In order to condense as much as possible the facts and information provided by our dear teacher, we would start with the distant past of Syrrako, which, according to the evidence, goes back to the depths of the 11th century AD. The dating of course of the first habitation remains unclear and historically inexact, since until now no thorough archaeological research has been carried out in the area to interpret the various findings, such as Cyclopean walls, ancient coins or the bull statue found in the ancient city of Avatos.

However, the strong humble tradition that has been preserved, traces the origins of the area back to antiquity, since it attributes the name of the adjacent Chrusia River to Achilles’ son, who, going down the river with the Myrmidons, was carried away and drowned. However, a strong historical evidence for the existence of the settlement is the fact that from the year 1480 the taxes of Syrrako were paid directly to Valide Sultana, the powerful mother of the Sultan, which proves that the amount of taxes must have been significant and that Syrrako was a flourishing community.

However, whatever the period of building, it is certain that the first settlers chose the place with great discernment. Indeed, at the southern extremities of Mount Lakmos (or Dove), the gullies of Valea-mari (Great Stream) to the west and of Chrusia to the east, with their steep ravines, make the intermediate site where Syrrako is built inaccessible from the east, south and west.

The site had a steep slope, but, apart from the natural fortification, it had considerable other advantages. It was sheltered from unfavourable winds, it was bathed by the sun all day long, the view opposite was panoramic, and in the middle of it, approximately, there were two water-rich springs. Over the years the settlement grew and looked like an eagle’s nest, built at an altitude of 1200 m., on a knife-edged rock. Eventually the place was filled with houses and before 1821 the number of houses reached 500.

On 10 July 1821 the Turks destroyed the settlement, but not its infrastructure; the square with its plane trees, the cobbled streets, the buildings of the Goura and Kontol springs, the Kalmaroutsa, the bell towers, the bridges and the mills, remained intact. When the people of Syrrako threw themselves into the struggle to rebuild the village, the wondrous infrastructure from their forefathers already existed.

The urban fabric is the most perfect. It tames the elevations providing the greatest possible comfort to the pedestrian and the underfoot. Streets wind up the steep slope and serpentine picturesque cobblestone streets climb, providing access to homes in a natural and effortless manner. Along with their excellent functionality, their aesthetics are impressive. Their gentle curves force the retaining walls to curve and the whole acquires a distinct harmony and beauty.

The layout of the streets was done wisely. They drain the rain water in such a way that neither the street floods nor does it become over-concentrated on any street in the fabric. The slope of the road to the left or right led the water into a ditch. The ditches not only drained the rainwater but also led the water from the taps for watering the gardens. From the centre of the settlement – the market place – the roads radiate towards the four points of the horizon and their branches reach the boundaries of the settlement.

In a prominent position, in the centre of Syrrako, is the spring of ‘Goura’. To this day it remains the most wondrous, the most excellent architectural creation in the settlement. It has a square shape, on three sides wide and tall identical arches. The northern side is built and here the three stone hydrants are built in. Above the arches, sloping building begins on all four sides, ending in a huge perfect circle. From the periphery of the circle, the dome is built with a type of pumice stone, called ‘Gigonara’ because it was quarried in the area of the same name.

The huge dome is characterised by masterly perfection and is striking for its small curvature. The masonry on which the arches rest is admirable. The rectangular stones were carved and built with impressive perfection. Unfortunately some later additions made for convenience, such as terraces resting on the barrels, adversely affect the elegance, grace, and beauty of the building, a building unaffected in technique and solidity, with nothing beaten or superfluous.

The ‘Kontol’ spring above Goura is also rich in water. The narrow, long building that houses the two stone hydrants, built in the background, has a stone dome, shaped like a half-cylinder, for its roof. Above the dome is a garden!

On the left side of the wall, where the hydrants are built in, there is an opening closed with a metal door. From there, someone would enter and regulate the amount of water in the hydrants, and the excess water would be led to the drain.

A pioneering sewer system – not only for the time it was built but also for today – is the ‘Kalmaroutsa’. It is a sewer that starts from the Kontol manhole, reaches the large market manhole and ends under the choir stall. The sewer has walls on its sides and above it is closed with a dome. Its floor is paved with tiles. Above the dome was the cobbled street leading to the market. The dimensions of the sewer from Kontol to the market are small. But from the market and to the end the dimensions gradually increased and at the end it was about three meters wide and three meters high!

With Panagiotis and Deucalion we walk for hours along the cobbled streets of Syrrako, reaching the extremities of the settlement. So apart from the brilliant works we have mentioned, what overall impresses us about Syrrako is its unique architecture. The building of the settlement was based on successive staggered levels, placed with a great difference in height between them and in such a way that their variety does not break the unity of the whole. After the catastrophe of ’21, the centre of the village was ruined and the buildings were destroyed, but the square with its century-old plane trees, the magnificent bell tower of St. Nicholas and generally all the infrastructure were not disturbed. So when the Syrrakans began to rebuild the ruins, apart from the existing valuable infrastructure, they had another great legacy. It was the spirit of architecture that existed in the settlement before the destruction.

The standards were set. To be realized they had to be made by skilled masons, with perfect technical training, with distinct artistic abilities and with the ability to give the best solutions to problems. The result that we admire today shows that the buildings were built by master craftsmen who created real masterpieces.

Their works are characterised by solidity, elegance, perfect adaptation to climatic conditions and adaptation to the specific requirements of each house. The simple and austere exterior of the houses, with their carved masonry and slate roofs, blends in perfectly with the environment. Each house has its own individual personality, there are no two identical buildings in the settlement.

In the years of Krystallis the settlement had 500 houses again and had rediscovered its prosperity, which the poet depicts in the following words. Brilliant buildings, an extraordinary population, flourishing schools, beautiful churches, and these commercial trades of its inhabitants make it famous even today, throughout Epirus and Thessaly.

Few houses were ground floor houses in Syrrako, the majority were two-storey houses and there were also several three-storey houses. All were built with common architecture, correct orientation and with the greatest adaptation to the needs of the owner.

As the slope with its steep inclination has a meridian orientation, the southern wall is always higher. The north wall has a low height and in many houses the roof is barely off the ground. Their plan is rectangular or L-shaped, and the foundations, if the ground is soft, reach a great depth.

The outer walls were left unused and built 70-90 cm thick, with limestone and a minimum of lime mortar. The stones were carved rectangular in small dimensions so that a small amount of lime mortar was required, since sand and lime were materials that were hard to find in Syrrako. At times the walls are reinforced with horizontal timber ties that are not visible, while many buildings use small iron brackets in the shape of a Y. In visible parts of the walls are inscribed plaques with engraved or embossed letters and numbers, indicating the time of construction and often the initials of the owner’s name. Some houses have the corner facing the street masterfully cut off, so as not to obstruct the passage of loaded animals. With the finishing of the walls the construction of the roof, immaculate in every way, began. The skeleton was based on thick wildwood, covered with planks. The slates were laid on top, in a scaly manner, so as to prevent water from entering the interior. The roofs are four-pitched with a significant pitch, which drains away rain and snow water. They project from the walls by 40-60 cm and are supported by wooden or, more rarely, stone frames.

Much could be written about the internal layout of the Syrrakan house, the furnishings and the function of each room, but this would defeat the purpose of this article. As a conclusion, we would say that all the individual elements of the houses, doors, windows, walls, floors are made with solidity, art and maximum functionality for the needs of the inhabitants.

The main entrance to the settlement is to the southwest, where the asphalt road ends and cars are parked. Here there is a covered fountain, built with a donation from the Association of Syrrakans of Ioannina in 1995, and an arch, the work of the Association of Syrrakans of Filippiada and Kampos, built in 1997.

Immediately afterwards begins the Valea-Mari gully, bridged by two magnificent arched bridges. These stone creations of man – the bridges and the cobbled path – harmonise perfectly with the natural environment of the ravine and create perhaps the most beautiful part of the village. Next to the second bridge there is a watermill that is no longer in operation, while in the middle of the route there is a beautiful domed stone fountain in the shade of a century-old plane tree. Already from the initial point of approach the visitor has every reason to be impressed by the beauty of Syrrako.

Different but equally spectacular is the picture from the highest point of the settlement, where we reach from the guesthouse, after a five-minute steep climb. Here, at an altitude of 1200 metres, our eyes are soothed by the view of the church of Prophet Ilias, dotted with tall, over-aged holly trees. The church is beautiful with its stone, arches and slate roof. It used to be a monastery of nuns. After its abandonment it was rented to homeless Syracusans until 1940. Then they were demolished.

With the panoramic view of the village in our eyes, we continue our tour from the church of Prophet Ilias to the NE. A path, shaded by huge holly trees, leads us after a few dozen meters to an imposing plane tree. Here, under the shade of its large branches, runs plenty of cool water from a magnificent fountain, also built by Palios in 1878.

Always nice and relaxing, the path runs along the northern edge of the settlement, which is its highest point. Here, several newly built houses with a magnificent view dominate, all built in the traditional Syrrakan way by Syrrakan expatriates, who return at the first opportunity to spend a few days in their place. The building of some houses is still in progress, which is of course promising for the future of Syrrako.

We walk down the wide beautiful cobbled street, pass by the stone fountain of Tsakiri, and greet an old woman spinning her wool. Then we follow for a while the left fork of the cobbled street to the beautiful church of Panagia, with excellent masonry, arches in the exonarthex, a central dome and a magnificent bell tower. The church was not destroyed in 1821. Its magnificent building reveals the height of the architectural spirit that prevailed in Syrrako in the distant years when it was built. Equally beautiful is the church’s courtyard, a place of rest and relaxation under the shady plane tree, with an exquisite view of the Chrusia Gorge.

Friendly to our footsteps, the cobbled path continues and after the church it passes by a signpost on a plane tree trunk, with an altitude of 1176m. In our tour it is impossible to go thirsty, since we again come across a fountain of Palios, built in 1878. Here, at a top viewpoint, an over-aged plane tree spreads its huge branches. In the beautiful paved area with three benches, we see once again the care of the settlers of Syrrako for the rest and tranquillity of the people. This area can be reached by car, but two cobbled streets start from here and lead to the centre of the village. Wonderful, calm and relaxing paths pass through large walnut trees, a huge ash tree, the oldest house in the village, which was not burnt down in 1821, and the -also old- house of the teacher. From every point, beautiful views of the village are revealed, an elaborate roof, a chimney, a cobblestone turn, lines simple, harmonious, with volumes and shades of light, which cannot fail to leave the gaze of not only an experienced photographer, but of any visitor. It is so charming to wander around and encounter at every step the craftsmanship and architectural wisdom of this place. Already, however, the School, an imposing building, erected in 1929, stands out. Stone-built too, with excellent masonry, it is covered by a dark tin roof, perhaps because of its very large surface area, which would be very difficult to cover with slabs. This splendid building has been deprived of the lively presence of children since the 1970s. But it will not be long before it opens its doors to the people again. It is intended to serve as a quality guesthouse with a nice view, excellent courtyard and comfortable rooms. From the centre of the settlement we ascend the steepest cobbled road, which after a few dozen metres leads us to the ancestral home of the famous – not only in Greece but also abroad – folklorist Interpretation Fotiadou. The building is an imposing three-storey building of 1880, donated by Fotiadou to house the Folklore Museum of Syrrako. With the keys given to us by Mrs Euridiki we enter the interior, which has remained unchanged.

After the ground floor we are led to the first floor, which houses the dining room, the kitchen and the living room (the ‘spitomana’ or winter room) with the fireplace. This is where the entire household is located, with original furniture and utensils, old photographs, and the necessary battlements, which visually cover the courtyard area. The second floor houses the “odas”, the official reception area for guests, with a wealth of old photographs of the family, a bed with hand-woven textiles, festive Dorracian costumes and beautiful tableware. There are even old decorative dishes and multiple awards of the folklorist Fotiadou from her activities abroad. The large collection of souvenirs from the most unlikely countries of the world is truly impressive. It is altogether an excellent mansion that directly refers to the historical memory and tradition of Syrrako, a valuable reference point for every visitor.

FROM SYRRAKO TO KALARRYTES

It would be unthinkable to leave Syrrako without having the experience of following in the footsteps of so many generations on the difficult path that crosses the Chrusia Gorge and was once the only way to connect the two neighbouring villages of Kalarrytes and Syrrako. A wooden sign in the centre of the village shows us the direction eastwards towards Kalarrytes. We first walk along an old cobbled road, which after a while meets a new one. In a few minutes we reach the eastern exit of the village, above the Chrusia, which can also be reached by car. The recently renovated cobbled road descends with a steep slope to the steep canyon slope, but contrary to what one would expect it is quite shoddy and sloppy. Of course, the basic construction philosophy remains, but it is easy to see that the meticulousness, the finishing of the stone and generally the care of the old craftsmen is missing. We would expect modern craftsmen to be more sensitive to the reconstruction of this traditional land road that used to link the two villages. The result is disappointing, both for our aesthetics and – most importantly – for our feet, which are in considerable discomfort. After a few minutes we come across parts of the old cobbled road, which unfortunately remains unmaintained and quite rough among the grass.

However, these observations do not detract from the overall feeling of the canyon. Vertical cliffs of immense height rise like a solid wall, both above our heads and on the opposite slope, creating a huge natural crevasse of wild grandeur and incredible beauty. Dense vegetation of hedges, cedars, holly and plane trees accompany our steps; innumerable dazzling yellow lilies are perched in the crevices of the rocks or spring up between our feet, softening the wild image of the gorge with their idyllic presence. Even at this dry time of the year, water drips from everywhere, creating crystal clear streams that flow low into the Chrusia River.

The muffled sound of the water that accompanies us from the beginning becomes louder with every step. After about 10 minutes, the bed of the Chrusia, unseen until that moment, emerges between the dense foliage of the plane trees. A narrow path ascends for a while against the flow of the river and in two minutes leads us to the water fountains and the old water mill, which has been wonderfully restored but it is highly doubtful if it will ever be operational.

Returning to the original path we come across another watermill, ruined, and after a while we reach the bridge that connects the two banks of the Chrusia River. There used to be an arched bridge, which according to tradition was built during the premiership of I. Kolettis. The two stone fountains still remain, but in 1928 the bridge was destroyed and replaced by an iron emergency bridge, a construction incongruous in the overall splendour of nature. The length of the bridge is about 9 metres. Even in mid-September the water still flows rushing under our feet. In winter and spring the level rises considerably, as can be seen from the water traces on the rocks. One would expect that we are at the end of our journey, the canyon looks like a dead end. How could the unsuspecting visitor imagine that the need of the old settlers of the two villages for communication, prompted them to carve an almost unlikely passage between these dizzying crags!

Narrow path, soon after I start counting steps, stuck almost on the vertical surface of the rocks. Climbing steadily, 35 steps, small breath of trail, then another 62, the bed unravels, then another 50, the canyon mounts, the spectacle becomes magnificent, indescribable. Sweating a lot, breathing fast from the steps and the awe. For a while the trail dims, carved under a rock cave. It’s a spot unexpectedly friendly on this vertical cliff edge, but at the same time so lonely that any hermit would envy it. I wonder what it would be like to spend a night here, above the canyon, beside a good fire! Perhaps only an old shepherd could answer. An iron railing protects us from the cliff, the steps in the rock end, we enter a gentle path, passing through a forest of holly trees. Panagiotis leaves us, he will return to Syrrako and drive back to pick us up from Kalarrytes. Under the fiery midday sun, the northeastern part of Syrrako, where the church of Panagia dominates, looms in front of us. We enjoy this stunning view of the village, sheltered in the hollow of a rock. Flat now, the path passes between cedars and holly trees, troubles us for a while with a last uphill and then gives way to a new cobbled path. Behind us, Syrrako disappears, ceases to accompany us. The Kalarrytes loom in our eyes, an hour after we started our march; we cross the pretty village and end up above the square in the old and picturesque little café of Napoleon, a fourth generation owner. Our friend is absent for shopping in Ioannina, we are welcomed by his mother – Katina, his mother, kind and animated at 77 years of age. She buys us cool water and a nice ‘tsipouro’. I don’t need anything else.

EPILOGUE

Before Syrrako disappears from our sight, we ascend to St. George. We gaze for the last time at the Aetofolia (Eagle Nest) of Pindos, summarize our impressions, send greetings and thanks to our good friends, Master Deucalion, Panagiotis and Poppy.

The sun is lowered in the colours of the west, Syrrako sinks into the shadow, the words of Krystallis come to our minds.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Krystallis, “APANDA”

Ι. K. Epirotic Studies Society, Ioannina 1993

“HISTORY OF SYRRACOS” (in publication), published by I. “History of Syrrako” (published by a group of researchers).

INDICATIVE DISTANCES (depending on the route taken)

SYRRAKO-IOANNINA: 53km

SYRRAKO-ATHENS: 430-480km

SYRAKO-THESSALONIKI: 300-400km

THANKS TO

-POPPY BITSIOU and her husband PANAGIOTIS DONTOROS, for the unforgettable hospitality, the important information and the hours of touring with us.

-The lovely EVRIDIKI VAITSI for all the information she provided us.

-Finally, the dear teacher DEYCALION MANJILA, both for his treasure trove of invaluable information and for the wonderful moments he gave us with his company in Syrrako.