After the long-awaited -almost- completion of the Egnatia, distances and times have become shorter. The Ionian Sea and Northern Greece have come closer, they meet more often. Provided, of course, that everything on the Egnatia is functioning normally and there are no road works in progress. Because then the detours begin, the road adventures of Krania, Metsovo and Milia, with their slow-moving trucks and countless bends, are revived. Something like this happened to us a few days after mid-June. It was due to works and not to a blockade by a “patriotic” mayor (due to Kallikrates) or some equally “patriotic” trade unionists. So the conditions of the past have been brought back to memory. The Ionian Sea was back in its old distant place. And the distant Sayada took a little longer than we had originally estimated.

SAYADA, FIRST IMPRESSIONS

In 1998 we were sure that we had reached the north-western end of the Greek territory. And we were not wrong. It was in the feature on the Diaspora islands, specifically the Othonians. There was, however, another NW end, not in island but in mainland Greece. It was the area and settlement of Sayada, 20 km above Igoumenitsa, the last Greek city before the border with Albania.

Unlike the Othonians, we were late in getting to know Sayada. We visited it for the first time only two years ago. It was a short visit, a first contact with the place. Which gave us a nice meal with fresh fish on the seafront, an overall view of Corfu on the faint horizon and a cool breeze that brought with it the breath of the Ionian Sea. We also remembered citrus orchards in the vast plain, some sporadic uninhabited houses in the surrounding mountains, and successive fish farms along much of the coastline towards Albania.

There were many interesting things that Sayada had managed to show us in just a few hours. Two years later we would find that there was much more.

AT “SKALOMA” (PORT) OF SAYADA

– I can’t wait to get to the port of Sayada, Anna tells me. Not for nothing. After the time-consuming detours of the Egnatia and the crossing of a crowded Igoumenitsa, the prospect of the serene waterfront of Sayada, with its open horizon and the breeze of the Ionian Sea, seems enchanting. It is the ideal end of a long journey.

Arriving at the port we find everything we want. A light breeze brings cool breezes from the sea, tempering the heat of the last few days. The same calmness is shared by the groups of people. They are seated and chatting in low voices in the taverns and cafes. The tables of the shops are lined up in rows, next to the little harbour with fishing boats and yachts. The paved quay in some places is so close to sea level that a lively oyster or grab is enough to bring the sea water several metres inland.

It is beautiful in the port of Sayada. We drink coffee, we look across the long mass of Corfu, which imposes itself catalytically on the whole horizon. Suddenly Anna shows me a small table nearby. A man is seated there, devotedly poring over a massive book. His long and unruly beard gives his physiognomy a biblical appearance.

– Did you see what he’s reading? Anna asks me. It’s Theo Arampatzis’ book about the plants and trees of Greece.

– And what’s so strange about that?

– That the book is very specialized.

Before I can answer, Anna gets up, approaches the man and starts talking to him. About two minutes later she beckons me to join her. I get up quite reluctantly and approach the stranger, who I’m sure has lost his precious calm. His handshake, however, and his pleasant disposition disarm me. Playing the role of hostess, Anna takes over the introductions.

– Michalis Pasiakos is from Sayada, an absolute connoisseur of the place and also a nature lover, naturalist and historical researcher. He readily accepts to accompany us on our tours in Sayada.

IN THE “LANE” OF SAYADA

If we carefully observe a map that includes Sayada, we will notice a peculiarity that is probably not visible at first glance. It is a narrow coastal zone of Greek territory, which begins immediately after Sayada and extends for several kilometers to the northwest, along the border line with Albania (which occupies the entire corresponding inland section).

This narrow coastline is the most northwestern and most remote part of mainland Greece. In the region it is known as the “Lane of Sayada“. So we start from the port on the asphalt road, which moves along the coast in a NW direction. A few kilometers later we pass by the very well organized beach “Keramidi”. Immediately afterwards our field of vision is occupied by a very special picture. It is the conical mass of a peninsula, which protrudes very characteristically from the coast. It is “Strovili”, which from a distance impresses only with its shape. But if one gets closer, and much closer, if one attempts to walk for a while on the rugged slopes, one will be surprised to discover stonewalls and the remains of a Christian church of the once fortified Byzantine settlement. Because of its strategic position opposite Corfu, the fortified settlement of Strovili was for years the object of contention between the Venetians and the Turks during the Turco-Venetian wars. Finally in 1479, at the end of the war, Venice was forced to surrender Strovili and Sayada to the Turks. Strovili suffered a bad fate. The Venetian fortress commander Piero Sagredo, after loading the fortress’s arms and ammunition into a galley, then destroyed the castle. The destruction was so systematic that since then the castle has not reappeared in history and few traces of its fortifications can be seen today.

After Strovili the asphalt road turns inland, where the outpost at “Mavromati” and the customs office with Albania are located. We continue straight on, on a dirt road, parallel to the pebbled coastline.

About 8 km after the port of Sayada, the first fish farms begin to be established. It is a reality that accompanies us to the end point of the Greek coast. The route is very interesting: a coastline with successive bays, a strip of land with dense vegetation, small lagoons and wetlands with large numbers and variety of birds. Particularly impressive is a colony of Cormorants, the largest concentration of this type of heron we have ever seen. Unfortunately the birds are very frightened, as soon as we stop the car with the intention of taking a photo they get up and fly away.

We pass by the perfectly sheltered bay “Pagania“. To the right of the road we find large trees of “Melicot“, which here form a rare cluster. A little later we pass by the lagoon of “Kataetos“, with its homonymous outpost. Higher up rises the bare hill of Orlia, and further back still, beyond the border, the bulk of Sarakinas.

Already in front of us, at perhaps the closest distance, the city of Corfu with its castle is looming.

About 20 km after Sayada, the dirt road and the Greek coastline end at the bay of “Ftelia”. A wonderful place, like a lake, with amazing vegetation, fish farms and an ancient dam with carved boulders. Unseen details of a place unseen, remote but so fascinating.

INFORMATION CENTRE OF KALAMAS

We return to Sayada and next to the port, we visit the “Kalamas Information Centre“. Here we meet the operation manager Andreas Mantos from Sayada. The building is a two-storey building, with an idyllic location by the water. The entrance has an acoustic surprise in store for us.

It comes from authentic bird sounds, recorded in the natural environment of Kalamas. We step on the gently sloping cobbled floor, which gives us a sense of the narrow and then the estuary.

The biggest interest, however, is above the floor, on the walls. They are covered with excellent information boards with plenty of information in two languages and with nice photos. We pass in front of paintings about Greece, Thesprotia, the 18 natural areas of Epirus, the creation of mountains and waters. Elements of the geology and natural environment of Kalama with the amazing “Theogefyro“. And also marshes, peat bogs, birds, evolutionary course of life on the Kalama, the 17 types of habitats of the river, and the Kalodiki marsh with the 4 types of habitats found only in it.

– Which of these will you include in the article? Andrew asks us.

– Very little, I’m afraid. So great is the richness and diversity of the region’s features that it is predicted to keep us busy for a long time.

An internal staircase leads to the first floor, with a viewing room, route and tour suggestions and an amazing timeline. It is a table with geological and historical development of the Kalama region. The starting point is 300 million years ago, when Epirus was still at the bottom of the shallow Tethys Sea. The table ends in 2000 AD, when the mouth of the Kalamas has been extended by 2,5 km towards the sea.

For information, the Kalama Information Centre was completed in 2000, while the Management Agency for the Straits and Estuaries of Kalamas and Acheron was established in 2007, has 9 staff members and operates from Igoumenitsa. The President is Theodoros Komninos and the Operations Coordinator is Evi Konsta. (more information at www.kalamas-acherontas.gr)

IN THE OLD SAYADA

Before it even dawns, the storm breaks. Torrential rain, lightning and thunder, strong wind, now and then some lightning. A few hours later the day dawns fresh and cool, with spectacular clouds and blue skies.

We start with Michalis to get to know the Pallia (the Old) Sayada. Few houses can be seen from the plain. They are almost disappeared in the dense vegetation of the mountain. An asphalt road of about 3 kilometers leads to the main road, which, sometimes paved with dirt and sometimes with traces of cobblestone, crosses the village.

When 2 years ago we had seen Old Sayada from the plain, it had not given us the impression of a settlement at all. It looked more like an insignificant number of ruined walls, scattered here and there in the mountain.

Today, as we head towards the centre of the village, we gradually discover its residential substance, its architectural character. An ornate and stately character, reflected in two-storey buildings of imposing dimensions, ruined but with amazing masonry elements. Well-cut light-coloured stones, exquisite cornerstones, decorative arches over windows and doors.

– This was the main shopping street of the village, explains Michael, the most important shops.

A few tens of meters later, a magnificent stone gate with an arch leads us to the center of the village with the paved square, “the threshing floor”. We climb a few steps and come out on a balcony with a unique view. From an altitude of 450m. we can see the old salt pans of Sayada with the small island of Agia Eleni to the south-southwest.

The Venetians mentioned the salt pans as early as 1386 and their exploitation gave wealth and glamour to the area. As Giorgos Tsogkas says in his book SAYADA: “The life of the place had more to do with the salt pans and the sea and less with the plain or the pastures. Salt was a valuable commodity at that time, for it was the main means of preserving food. Salt was used to cure fish, meat and cheese in order to sell them on the various markets. At the same time they exported the salt they had surplus. Caravans with mules on land and boats on the sea carried the “white gold”, which was in demand, to the near and distant regions.

The port of Sayada, although it was shallow and open to the winds, began already in the Byzantine period to play an important role in the whole of Epirus and Northern Greece“.

– We could say a lot about the salt pans of Sayada, Michael adds. In late Byzantine times they attracted the interest of the Angevins, the Venetians, the Despotate of Epirus, the Albanians and finally the Turks. Thus, constantly changing hands, they operated until 1946. Then, and after 6 centuries of operation and contribution to the country, they were abolished by decision of the Greek Monopoly!

For a few minutes we gaze, like the demigods of Old Sayada, at the unobstructed horizon, far away as Paxos and the Corfiot coast and close to us, low down, in the wetlands and the mouth of Kalamas. Next to us the walls of the old community shop still remain. They owe their superb masonry, like so many other buildings, to the masters from the Mastorochoria of Konitsa, mostly Pyrsoyanites.

Just below the square we find a rocky complex with vertical rock surfaces.

– With a little attention you will see traces of ancient carvings, says Michael. After all, the remains of the fortification from Hellenistic times show us that the area was inhabited very early, while similar findings exist in Skaloma, in the port of Sayada.

During the Ottoman period, it was an important village of the region. The Turkish traveler Elvija Çelebi wrote in 1670 that it had 160 houses, churches, hoses and large storehouses. However, the two major earthquakes that hit Sayada destroyed its medieval appearance. The village was rebuilt by masonry workers from Konitsa in August 1943, but the Germans, with the help of the Muslim Albano-Camites, burned the village. The civil war dealt the final blow to Old Sayada and its inhabitants were dispersed. Those who returned created the new village at the harbour and a little further inland.

Very close to us is the stone church of Agios Georgios, built in 1833. The interior is covered with frescoes, but desecrated by shabby engravings of the wicked, a phenomenon, unfortunately, not at all rare in remote churches. The wooden iconostasis is also missing. It was burnt by other profane people in 1990 to keep warm! The beautiful church is badly damaged and urgent repairs are needed. Fortunately the stunning bell tower remains unchanged.

Opposite the church there are two neoclassical buildings, built by a Corfiot architect and masters. They belong to the great family of Tsogaios, merchants of the area. The bust of Senator Gregory Tsogas is located in the port of Sayada. And the path connecting Old and New Sayada bears his name.

We walk for a long time around the beautiful village, which has been characterized as a traditional settlement. We pass by grass, thick branches, we enter basements and ruined courtyards, we admire arches, fireplaces, amazing masonry. Old Sayada is a ghost village today. Yet it retains an unsurpassed glamour and charm. If only some restoration and redevelopment work would begin, so that life would come back.

We continue straight on, detouring left for a while to the big stone fountain with the two spouts and then we leave the village, heading towards the hill of Vigla. It is the hill whose bulk prevents the village from the view of unwanted sea visitors. The fairly good dirt road runs around the perimeter of Vigla and in a few minutes reveals a superlative view of the coast and plain in all its detail, as well as a wonderful plan of Sayada. It is the most beautiful view of the village. We hit the tarmac a few hundred metres from the port of Sayada. We have completed a circular route of 7 kilometres or so, which, with a little care, even conventional cars can manage. Visiting and getting to know such remarkable details of Old Sayada is definitely worth the visit and we highly recommend it.

THE GHOST OF… LIOPSI

– Does it reach you as far as the first houses or do you want to go higher, to the Sarai? asks Michael

– But, what is worth it is the view of the saragus.

– Hey, then we’ll walk a bit.

Even more than the ruins of Old Sayada, I was impressed by the ruins of Liopsi. They stood upright on their wild uphill slopes, proud and obvious from all sides, as if for them there was no danger of the sea. Higher still, on the curve of the neck, the symbol of the power of the place, the Sarai of Dino Bay, was outlined with its arrogant bulk, as it should have been.

– How does one get up there; I had asked in Asprokleisi, down in the plain.

– With his feet, I had been told, with a slight irony in my voice.

– And they were right, Michael says. Liopsis is not a tourist destination.

We get into the tough SUZUKI JIMNY and we’re off. At 3.5 km. after Asproklesi we leave the asphalt and climb up the mountain. The dirt road is rough, unsuitable for conventional cars. At some point even slow four-wheel drive is necessary. Olive, fig and almond trees, holly, prickly pears and wisteria. Scattered among them are the ruins of houses, with sturdy walls. Unlike Sayada, here the well-built clay masonry dominates. Chipped stone is used only in the corners of the houses.

At 2.1km. we stop at a flat point in the village. High above it stands the Sarai. The bulk of its ruins can be seen among the trees. Opposite it the dry mountain “Birbili” with a peak at 505m. A little lower, on its neck, is built Sarai, ruined among trees.

From 345m. a steep uphill begins on a rough path, with stones and thorns. The slope smells of oregano and thyme. It takes us a 20 minute walk to reach the front of Sarai at 465m. We are greeted by the gisterna, a deep water tank, with a base dimension of about 5 x 5m and a height to the ground surface of 8-9m.

The central part of the saragio is visible behind the gistorna. Chipped stone everywhere, in the style of Sayada. In between, parallel bands of stones in pink tones, brought from Parapotamos. Arches, decorative arches, a stunning two-storey fireplace built with the same stone, large central arch to support the floor. In the vaulted basement, the “kube”, the horse room. A strong castle sheltered the sarai around the perimeter. The masonry made of elaborate clay masonry survives up to 4 metres, while the thickness reaches 80 cm. What to say about the location. It is strategic and offers an unobstructed view of east and west, plain, sea and mountains.

– What was the history of Liopsis? we ask Michael.

– Inhabited by Albanian-speaking Muslims since the beginning of 14th century AD. The large marshes of the mouth of Kalamas river, ideal for cattle grazing, gave the name to the village (Liop = “cow”) built on the slopes of the mountain. The inhabitants managed to take possession of all the wealth of the region, salt pans, harbour, vivaria. Their allies were the Ottomans whom they served – even changing their religion – until the annexation of the region to the Greek state.

With the new conditions they lost their privileges and so they turned to new allies, the Italians. A brief glimpse during the occupation led them back to power but also to exile after 1944. The most important and fortified part of the village is the quarter “Kontriza” where the sarai of Dino Bey dominates the top. The Dino family, one of the largest in the area, reached as far as Paramythia and Preveza. The genarch Dino Bey fought with his kinsman Mehmet Ali in Egypt and returned home laden with booty. They are still searching the Sarai for the great treasure!

Important descendants of the family were the Ottoman prefect of Archipelago and later the Grand Vizier, Abandin Pasha Dino, who published two collections of poetry in Greek! Abaddin Dino II is considered one of the forerunners of filmmaking in Turkey, while Ali Dino Bey was a cartoonist in interwar Athenian newspapers.

IN ANCIENT GITANI

In between Igoumenitsa and Sayyada, on the river Kalamas, there is a small hydroelectric power station with a capacity of 4.2 MW. From the bridge over the river we turn east towards Ancient Gitani. We are accompanied, through dense plane trees and other trees, by the wide riverbed with its green calm waters. At one point we can see, half-submerged in the mud and badly damaged, the stone bridge of “Gumanis”, photographed intact in May 1913 by Fred Boissonas.

A few hundred meters later, we cross the river by bridge and reach the fenced archaeological site of Gitani, open daily, except Monday, from 08:30 – 15:00. From the outpost we take a well-kept wide dirt road with a gentle slope, which in 5 minutes leads us to the flat top of the hill, at an altitude of 110 meters. We are struck by the peripheral views across the mountain horizon and the absolute immediacy of the plane-covered river environment.

We are even more impressed by the extent, the excellent promotion and the individual elements of the site: the amazing perimeter polygonal wall, the intersection, the inner wall, i.e. the 315m long wall that divides the settlement into east and west, the Agora with the paved street and the complex of shops, as well as the Prytaneion with the mosaic floors and the laboratories with the clay jars.

Outside the western fortification, very close to the ancient Thyami – today’s Kalamas – is the Theatre of the city. The central part of the hollow is well preserved and had a capacity of 4-5000 spectators. The figurines consist of large parallel pieces of chipped limestone. It is impressive and rare that a large number of the seats bear on the front side engraved inscriptions of the names of prominent persons such as Menedomos, Haropidas, Pausanias, Nicostratus, etc.

For information, we report that the archaeological site occupies a total area of 287 acres and is surrounded by a strong polygonal wall of about 2,500 meters. It occupies the SW slope of the gypsolite mountain of “Vrysella”, at the confluence of the Kalpakiotiko stream with the ancient river Thyami, today’s Kalamas. The existence of a town named Gitani is attested by the literary tradition (Livy Polybius) but mainly by inscriptions on stones and seals. Gitana was the political centre and seat of the community of Thesprotia from its foundation in 336 / 330 BC until its conquest by the Romans in 167 BC.

LAST PICTURES

Our daily walk at any time of the day and in any part of the region is fascinating. Even on the mainland of the river the place is beautiful. This is mainly due to the -ubiquitous- citrus orchards with oranges and especially the famous tangerines of the ‘Clementine’ variety, highly sought after in foreign markets. The creation of new estates with Clementine trees is therefore justified.

Very important is also the Monastery of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary of Ragios near the village Ragios. The exact date of its construction is unknown, but according to tradition it was founded during the reign of Manuel Komnenos (1143-1180) or Michael Palaiologos (1261-1282).

It was plundered many times and destroyed. But it managed to survive the years after its renovation in 1865-66. Today only the katholikon and a large rainwater tank remain of the old monastery. The many air-conditioning units at the top of the church, both inside and outside, give a questionable and bad impression.

We wouldn’t want to end this first approach to the region of Sayada without some pictures of the wetlands, beaches and the estuary of the Kalamas river. With Andreas Mantos as our guide, we head west of Igoumenitsa, towards the vast sandy beaches of Drepano. It is a comprehensive area, protected by the NATURA 2000 network. Lagoons, reeds, reeds, vivaria, the spectacular peninsula of Lygia, a sheltered bay with fish farms, constant alternations of sun and clouds with rain in between. A dirt road filled with annoying potholes takes us to the mouth of the old Kalamas riverbed. A vast area, with very shallow water, tamarisks, fish huts and vivaria. White-fronted and cormorants. A place of strange beauty. A few tens of meters later the sea begins, with its waves of garbi. It’s such a contrast to the calm waters of the Kalama.

EPILOGUE

The frequent unpredictable rains and the persistent gusts of wind did not allow us the approach we had planned from the sea side. That too will be left for next time. As will our systematic engagement with the wetlands, estuaries and so much more.

In the last afternoon we can’t avoid wandering around the estuary again. Stunning wetland, continuous marshes with bogs, tamarisks and reeds. Countless frightened birds, white-throated kingfishers, ash grosbeaks, cattle egrets, a couple of steelhead, a pair of silverbacks and so many more. There’s a myrmidon, swimming quietly, half-hidden behind a small clump of reeds. We’re already dreaming of next time.

– As long as you have more time, Michael says. There is so much to see and say.