From almost every point of Agios Kirikos a heavy mountainous mass was catalytically penetrating the eastern horizon. It was none other than Kerketeas, the well-known Kerki of Samos. With a height of 1440 m above the surface of the Aegean Sea, he had every right to look at us, the visitors of Ikaria, with the arrogance of the tall ones.

So, gazing at the imposing Kerki, I was thinking that the next trip to the region had to be to Samos. Little did I know that the hourglass of time had already begun to count down the days that separated me from its land.

One morning I spoke to Margarita Ikariou on SAMOS FM. Who, reading the article of Ikaria, filled us with comments of praise and compliments..

– So when will ELLINIKO PANORAMA visit Samos?

– Immediately! was my spontaneous answer.

Neither I nor any of my staff regretted it.

THE FIRST IMPRESSIONS

At the moment of approach to the ground, cross winds of particular intensity prevail, Amylous as we are in the peculiarity of the Samos airport, for a moment we beat our hearts out. The landing of the AEGEAN plane is of course safe.

Samos Aristarchos Airport was inaugurated in June 1963. It is classified as International B’ with the possibility of receiving aircraft directly from abroad. However, due to its location and the slope of the winds, it is still considered one of the most difficult in Europe.(1)

Before we realize we are in Samos, we arrive at the location “Potokaki”, on the outskirts of Pythagorio. Here, stretched lazily by the sea, are the facilities of the “Fyto” complex, which owes its name to the Sibyl of ancient Fyto. Despite the large capacity in beds of the unit, we feel as if we have come to a family accommodation. The dimensions are friendly and human. The two-storey lodges are scattered haphazardly among abundant trees, flowers and plants and are connected by a network of paved walkways. We get the sense that we are in a beautiful flower-filled neighborhood. A large swimming pool and a smaller one for children next to it are wonderfully harmonized with the natural environment.  A bar on the beach, umbrellas and sunbeds, a restaurant and a café of the unit next to the excellent sandy beach complete the privileges enjoyed by the guest.

A strong breeze blows, tempering the heat of the day. Having a S-SE orientation, the vast beach is not affected by wind gusts and the sea surface remains serene.  We are joined by the guide Alekos Stavridis, the President of the Speleological Association of Samos “Evpalinos”, George Spyropoulos and the German caveologist and climber INGO KLIESEN. All of them are willing, in their respective fields, to help our work.

The evening finds us in the seaside settlement of neighbouring Heraion. We are honored with the presence of the Deputy Mayor of Culture Hara Skoufou, the Councillor Stratos Kavadakis and of course the original initiator of our visit to Samos, Margarita Ikariou. Within minutes we felt as if we were with friends we have known for years.

A BRIEF LOOK BACK IN TIME

Tables in the paved courtyard, next to trees and flowers. “Good morning” with different accents, depending on the country of origin. Staff polite and helpful, with a permanent smile. Buffets plentiful, cleanliness and order. At 7 am everything is ready.

One of the co-owners of the unit Nikos Athanasiou greets his guests, talks with them with familiarity.

– Most of them, he says, are old friends. Some of them I met as young couples and are now here with their children, and some who first came with children are returning with their grandchildren. Their initial love for Samos has grown into a love that is timeless and steady.

We head to the Pythagorio to meet our guide Alekos Stavridis. Our short route is no different from a fascinating trek along the paths of history. Everywhere there are antiquities, amazing monuments, from the remains of the Late Neolithic Age (late 4th millennium BC) to the early Bronze Age (2800-1900 BC), followed by the Mycenaean and Classical periods, the Hellenistic and Roman Period and finally Byzantium. The ancient city of Samos, today’s Pythagorio, was a place of continuous habitation for over 5,000 years, a melting pot of people and cultures so different from each other, each of them leaving their mark until our days:

We suddenly find ourselves unable to include in a single article about Pythagorio, everything. We therefore decide that this first approach should focus on the place and the people of modern times, followed by a tribute from a specialized pen on the wondrous antiquity.

The guide Alekos Stavridis heads to the hillside above Pythagorio. His Greek audience consists of people of mature age, climbing unabashedly up to the site of the ancient theatre.  Very few parts of the ancient stands survive. The theatre is now covered with a wooden structure for the needs of the summer music events “Manolis Kalomiris”. With his first sentences Alekos inspires his audience. In a simple and understandable way, with gestures and humour where necessary, he weaves the historical background of ancient Samos, presents the brilliant works of the era of Polycrates I notice with how much attention his elderly listeners participate and then follow him on the uphill road to the Monastery of Panagia Spiliani. The view from here is magnificent of the vast plain of Pythagorio, the city and the sea.

The monastery is a monastery of Panagia Chozoviotissa of Amorgos. Among the cypress trees there is a two-storey church of St. George and some cells. A huge solid rock next to the monastery, with an excellently carved mouth and walls, refers to an ancient quarry, forming a cave similar to a tunnel about 50 metres long. As we carefully descend the steps, slippery from the humidity, the temperature plummets. At the bottom of the cave, a picturesque chapel keeps the image of the Virgin Mary half-obscured on ancient tiles. Fresh and tasty water springs from the depths of the rock and flows into a stone trough. The space is evocative and solemn, but stepping out into the warm outdoor environment is tantamount to a temperature shock.

ANCIENT MINES, CAVES AND CLIMBING ROUTES

The President of the Speleological Association George Spyropoulos, his wife and caveologist INGO KLIESEN invite us to discover the unseen beauties and peculiarities of the place. With us the Texan climber RICK MACKINTOSH and Manolis Triantafyllou, hiker, climber and member of the Board of the Association.

A relatively passable dirt road leads us in front of the mouth of the first of the 45 known caves of the ancient mines “Koutsodontis”. Some scattered rubbish is the only dissonance in the beauty of the place. We are compensated by the impressive entrance of the cave with the stone columns that underpin the roof and retain all the glory of their ancient carving. Equally impressive is the huge gallery created by the excavation, with a maximum height of at least 6 meters and an area that must be over 500 square meters.

Even more spectacular is a second cave, about 200 metres E-NE of the first, with sloping ground, identical pillars and an area approaching 1000 square metres.

Returning back we find ourselves on the back side of the hill “Kastri” on top of which the remains of the once mighty fortification of Polycrates dominate. In the wonderful valley with trees and vineyards we pass in front of the chapel of St. John, built in 1803, better known as “Ayades”. A spring with abundant water and oleanders create a nice and cool place. In the basement of the chapel was built an archaic tank, which collected water for the Eupalinio aqueduct and with an 890 m long underground pipeline it was piped to the B orifice of the trench. With the help of our local friends we discover the mouth located in a lush ravine. The entrance is built with fine masonry but is unfortunately closed due to maintenance works. Most disappointing, however, is the absence of any signage directing the visitor here. A couple of kindly locals – Mrs. Vangelio and Mr. George – offer us white figs of the “anemos’ka” variety from a large fig tree. They are very sweet, the biggest white figs we have ever seen.

-And to think that at the supermarket they are unsold, says Mr. George with a complaint.

We head to the settlement of Myloi and by a dirt road to the northwest we reach a young olive grove in a few minutes. Here, almost unseen on the limestone slope, is the cave “Nerotrubia I”, with quite difficult access but rich lithic decoration, which our partner photographer Yannis Koutsoukos captures with his lens.

Nerotrubia I consists of 3 floors with large halls, tunnels, stalactites and stalagmites. The first floor is 60 meters long, but access to the second floor is only possible by using a rope in a chasm of about 15 meters. Here there is a labyrinth of caves. The third floor was only discovered in October 2005 and requires caving equipment.

For my part, I penetrate “Water Cave II”, with grey and reddish-brown stalactites and a large pillar about 3 meters high, which looks like a gateway to the cave entrance. The unique room is no more than 50 square meters, 5 meters high and beautifully decorated with coral, curtains and columns but also with considerable destruction. At least at this time of year the drip is non-existent. At one point a bat enters with a rush, disappearing immediately into a crack in the walls.

Much could be said about the innumerable caves of Samos, for which a complete tribute is needed. A few hundred metres from ‘Nerotroubia I’, the remains of the arches of a part of the Roman aqueduct, which, with long efforts, have been reproduced and presented in a stunning publication by Tiafugis Demetriou, stand out among the vegetation. This colossal 12-kilometre project, as well as the monumental Eupalinio Trench, will form a special article in a subsequent issue.

Another little known peculiarity of Pythagorio deserves a special tribute. It is the climbing field in the huge complex of rocks above Panagia Spiliani. The numerous climbing routes of varying degrees of difficulty have been carved and secured with great effort and passion by INGO KLIESEN.

With a view of Pythagorio, the plain and the sea, climbing on these rocks, many meters above the ground, is a thrilling experience, as can be seen in the photographic snapshots taken during the action by Yannis Koutsoukos.

“EVA” OF MYLOI

The settlement of Myloi is built near the banks of the Imvrasos river. It took its name from the 10 or so watermills that had been developed along the river. We discover 3 of them on a 1.5 km route from the south-southwest exit of the village, in an incredibly idyllic and cool environment with orange trees, oleanders and plane trees. Mili is famous for its vast orange grove that penetrates into the village, giving it a deep green appearance. The settlement is picturesque, with narrow streets, several stone houses and in the centre a beautiful little square with large mulberry trees and two neoclassical houses. We make a stop under the cool shade at the little café of Mrs. Filios. The village people from the next table greet us in a friendly way, while Aias Kechagias from the settlement of Koumaradaia buys us coffee. As we prepare to leave, we are asked if we have visited “Eva”.

– And who is Eva, you guys?

– The oldest olive tree on the island, they tell us seriously. Its age is incalculable. It’s near the entrance to the village. Ask and they’ll tell you.

We bid them farewell without delay. At the entrance of the village we find Dionysis’s pottery workshop “Phidias”.

– Is Eva near you?, we ask him.

He looks at us for a moment, puzzled.

-Yes, here next to us, he answers.

A nice man, he gives up the wheel and the clay and comes with us. 30 metres from his shop we turn right onto a concrete road, which passes between houses and orchards and, after about 120 metres, stops. A footpath begins which, in less than 40 metres, ends in the yard of a two-storey house. Here, we face Eva. The trunk of the tree is huge. In fact, only the outer shell remains, 15-20 cm thick, so hard that it resembles a fossil. Its interior has ceased to exist, leaving a cyclical void that looks like it has been carved. But the trunk also has an entrance, like a Sarakatsan hut.

We enter with Michalis Zevgoulas and we are sure that, apart from us, there is room for at least 8 other people. With the tape measure we measure the perimeter. It is almost 10.5 meters (!). But the most amazing thing is that the tree is still very tall, since from the S part of the tree, dense branches rise up to a height of at least 7 meters, covered with olive trees.

For a long time we admire this monument of nature. As for the age of Eva, and the same age as Pythagoras if they told me she was, I would still believe them.

Returning to Dionysis’ we meet MICHAEL KRAFT, a German archaeologist, who is the grandson of the famous German archaeologist ERNTS BUSCHOR, who in 1925-1939 supervised the first major period of excavations at Pythagorio, the German Archaeological Institute of Athens. These excavations continued from 1951 until today, initially by the same researcher and later by others with excellent results (2).

THE ENIGMATIC “DODEKAPORTO”

The extensive plain NE of Myloi rests for a long time our eyes with the deep green of the orange groves and the green-silver of the olive groves. Here we discover the familiar and picturesque cones of two charcoal kilns, which won’t be long before they are lit. We even discover a ruined watermill, whose stone-built mill is preserved in perfect condition and at least 100 metres long.

But the area also hides a monument unseen, old and very enigmatic, the famous ‘Dodecaporto’. With our guide, the president of the businessmen of Heraion, Lefteris Valeontis, we start from “Phidias” in a northeastern direction and at 500 m. we enter a rural road on the left. 1450 meters later we see a building in a century-old olive grove. We approach and find ourselves in front of a ruined church, without a roof, whose masonry refers to an early Christian period. It is of large dimensions and what mainly makes it impressive are the successive arches (doors), five on one wall and five on the opposite wall. But let us leave it to the brilliant pen of Nicholas Demetriou to describe the monument. Besides, our own findings, 40 years later, are little different.

“Twelve doors. Ruined church with 12 arches – doors. Hence the name of the church and the whole district. Total length outside, including the Holy Bema, 15 metres. Width outside 6.30 m. Height of the north side 3.5 m, of the south side 4.10 m. On the north side 5 arches – doors. On the south side 5 more. One on the west, at the main entrance. In the sanctuary, in place of the small doorway, another one. The width of each of the doors is 1.36 and the total height is 2.65.

When it was built, unknown. Nor if it was ever finished, certain. No sign of a bedroom anywhere…to say it would have been a two-storey, a bold assumption. It’s whitewashed. The stones are ascending, making a face. A few stone pebbles and bits of tile, irregular. As for the roof, only experts can deduce what it looked like… Five carob trees, quite thick and large, have grown inside the church.”

Demetriou concludes: “Another time when I went there with the associated professors Koukoulis and Vamvoudakis, we had seen a small cross engraved on a fern. Now it is missing. I heard these professors say that this church was either the Holy Apostles or the Virgin Mary. A brief action is needed by the experts, to save it from obliteration.”

40 years later, the experts are still not interested in the Dodekaporto.

THE CHURCHYARD AND THE TOWER OF SARAKINI

At the south-western end of the Chora plain, the most extensive lowland area of Samos, the seaside settlement of Heraion, with its picturesque little harbour, many small hotels and rooms to let and a large number of tavernas, bars and cafes, is experiencing great tourist development. Fresh fish, Greek cuisine and very good service attract many Greek and foreign visitors every day. Evening hours along the cool waterfront are truly enjoyable.

The settlement of course owes its name to the nearby famous archaeological site of Heraion with the famous temple of Hera, which we will not concern ourselves with in this article. Here we simply mention that our walk around this amazing site impressed us in every respect. We were also impressed by the dimensions of the surviving upright column and the age of a wicker tree, which was considered a sacred tree of Hera.

This particular one is, without a doubt, the largest wicker tree, of tree and not bushy form, that we have ever seen.

However, there is another, younger but historic, monument in the area. It is the legendary “Sarakini Tower”, about a mile from the coast. Describing its creation, Fotis Kontoglou states that “Kilitz Ali, an admiral of the Sultan – a Greek from southern Italy – was forced to anchor, due to bad weather, in 1562 in the bay of Heraion, Samos. Impressed by the beauty of the island, he decided to see to its repopulation, promising privileges to those who participated. He bequeathed the land around Heraion to his helmsman Nikolaos Sarakinis, a Cretan by birth but born in Patmos. The tower built there was named after him. But because his son had no male heirs, the tower was eventually inherited – to this day – by the Monastery of John the Theologian on Patmos”.

According to HERMAN J. KIENAST, the tower is elongated, measuring 6.50 x 13 m. and therefore has a ratio of 1:2. Its external appearance is that of a solid fortified building. Characteristic features are mainly the zemmatistra and the ramparts on the roof. It is made of well-built hewn stone and numerous pieces of tile.

The tower of Sarakini is undoubtedly an outstanding example of an inhabitable fortification tower. It is of particular importance for Samos, both because there is no other like it and because it represents an important new beginning in its history. We would add that it is at least 12 metres high and the wall of the first floor is dominated by a huge caparison. The date of construction of the tower is considered to be 1577, while the twin adjacent church of St. John is dated 1602. The second honoured saint is St. George, with a round arch, while St. John’s is polygonal. In front of the church, parts of ancient architectural elements are preserved. Impressive is a huge carved stone mortar, where they used to peel the wheat to use it in the “feast”, the customary food of the festivals.

A few hundred metres from the tower, in an olive grove, is the ancient chapel of Saint Christodoulos, with a domed roof, lime plaster and stone masonry.

TOUR IN THE MOUNTAINS: PAGODAS, SPARTAN AND TOWER

We leave the idyllic plain of Chora and , from the third-rate reconstructed bridge of the Myloi, we climb up into the mountains. After 4,5 km we enter the first houses of Pagodas, first encountering an old, stone-built oil mill that is still in operation.

Pagodas impresses us with its size and picturesqueness. It is built amphitheatrically, at an altitude of 300-350 meters on the E-NE slopes of Bournias. The central square of Kapsali is rectangular, large in size and paved with beautiful wide slabs. Under the shade of the plane trees a café and two taverns are hosted. Below the square stands an impressive but dilapidated stone mansion and behind it the spectacular and towering chimney of an oil mill, which is no longer in operation.

Very characteristic around the centre of the village are some mansions of large dimensions and excellent architecture, which belonged to tobacco and oil merchants. From the square, heading south-west, we walk uphill through the village, through a narrow and picturesque alley, like all the narrow streets of Pagodas, which, before they were paved with concrete, were cobbled streets. All these alleys make up a labyrinthine road network between the dense building fabric.

We arrive at the south-western end of the village, at its highest point. Here the waterworks dominates, a stone building with magnificent masonry and a dome-shaped roof. Characteristic of its excellent architecture are the 11 arches on the front, which is 26 metres long, while inside there is a series of stone washstands. The view of Pagodas from here is stunning, with the imposing blue dome of the Holy Trinity, the countless tiled roofs in a dense arrangement and the marble bell tower of the Church of Christ with its delicate outline.

We start the semi-mountainous route to Spatharaios.

– The pine trees you see are only the remnants of the once famous pine forest that covered all the slopes, says Lefteris Valeontis. Before the fire of 2000, a few times the road escaped the dense shade of the pine trees, it was like driving through a natural archway.

We descend down a dirt road to the left towards the Monastery of Evaggelistria which was once a women’s monastery. Nice view of Agathonisi and the sea, the steep hill opposite with the chapel of the Prophet’s Chapel on top. The dirt road continues towards the wonderful coast of “Tsopela”. After a while it becomes rough and at one point it branches off towards Spatharaios.

We are now moving along the asphalt route, at a high altitude above the southwest coast of Samos. The view is unparalleled. Below, low down, the outline of the graceful Samiopoula is outlined, in the background of the NW horizon rises the stern bulk of Kerki and behind it the outline of Fourni. The beautiful settlement of Spatharaia, built with great amphitheatricality on the slopes of Bournias at an altitude of 600-650 metres, looms ahead. At the entrance of the village, a covered fountain with cool water and dates on a marble inlay 1909 and 1927.

A picturesque village, with a top view of the Aegean Sea and a magnificent sunset. There are many stone houses, narrow streets and dense building, typical of the old settlements for protection against piracy. It owes its name to a Byzantine official – “Spathario” – , who was exiled to Samos and settled in a settlement in the area. Therefore, the settlement predates the fall of Constantinople. In the centre of the village, the church of Archangel Michael, built with chipped corner stones from the Dodecanese, is imposing with its volume, a three-aisled basilica with a dome, built in 1933-39 on the site of a tiled basilica of 1795. The wood-carved central door, the iconostasis, but mainly the miraculous, according to tradition, icon of Brigadier Michael are impressive. The sights of the village are completed with the picturesque paved square, the “Giannakio School”, built in 1931 with the funding of Nikolaos Giannakis and the 39 churches with their festivals and the traditional celebration.

The beaches are also beautiful, while the “Cultural Association of Spatharaion” is very active with many and varied activities, such as the organization of the carnival custom “the Kadis”. We leave the “balcony of the Aegean” and head towards “Pyrgos”. Everywhere the signs of the fire are visible, but Pyrgos still remains beautiful. A large settlement, with many traditional houses and picturesque alleys. From an average altitude of 450 meters it looks out over the Plain of Chora and the sea. In the square stands out, with its amazing masonry, the church of St. George, which began to be built in 1904 but was never finished due to earthquakes. In the spacious square there is a fountain, a plane tree and a monument to the fallen, while the old school of 1889 is now a rural clinic.

Built near the Amfilissos River, Pyrgos is one of the oldest headquarters villages of Samos, since a stone anathema with an ancient Greek inscription was found at the “Pothetina” site. The settlement is well-known for its taverns with their traditional flavours and for the excellent quality honey. Pyrgos can also be proud of the Women’s Association “Kyveli”, which in its 6 years of operation has a rich social and cultural work for which it was awarded in 2003 by the Ministry of Health – Welfare.

Narrows, uphill and we arrive at the house of Mrs. Zafeiro Kontaxis, accompanied by her daughter Kiki, member of the Board of the Association, and by Evangelia Pissaki, president of the Municipal Council of the Municipality of Pythagorio. The old lady of 86 years old welcomes us with a flourishing and smiling face. At this age she still creates her famous handicrafts, the “asprokennity cut”, which are much sought after. She treats us to a beautiful orange sweet and shows us her first handiwork with emotion.

– I made it 72 years ago, at the age of 14. It seems like not a day has passed since then!

Heading west we leave the Tower and 3 km later, we find ourselves at the location “Koutsi”, a paradise immersed in the shade of towering plane trees, where the sun hardly penetrates. Here, down the road, there is a tavern, which has deployed its little tables among the murmuring flow of abundant water running from everywhere. We treat ourselves to a satisfying respite of peace and coolness, isolated from the hot summer noon.

While mainland Greece is boiling these days, the Samian meletemi blows incessantly all day, even at night, with an intensity of 5-7 Beaufort, a precious coolness on our long tours.

The Municipal Councillor Nikos Lykos and Maria Apostolaki show us around “Chora“, the old capital of Samos. The focal point is the tristrato with the fountain, the so-called “Meeting”, which used to be the meeting point of the neighbouring villages.

Going uphill, we first meet the big church of Ag. Paraskevi and next to it the old stone wash-houses of the women of the village, remnants of the way of life of another era. Adjacent to the church stands an imposing old building with an arched marble entrance, used initially by the religious and later by the local political authorities. On the lintel there is a relief of the double-headed eagle and the date 1783. Passing successively by our eyes are neoclassical buildings of 1930, 1931, a magnificent two-storey building of 1893 and the old two-storey church of St. Anne and St. Eleftherios, with thick masonry, a paved floor, an icon of the Virgin Mary of 1797 and an earlier one in the chancel of 1677.

We continue along a narrow alleyway where the country market used to be. It is a beautiful neighborhood with many interesting architectural features, a stone-built unoccupied building of 1878 but also a crude three-story building next to it.

We arrive at “Messani” (in the centre of Chora), with a lovely pine tree, a tavern, a fountain covered with stone washes and three hydrants with abundant flow. At the entrance of the fountain is a marble column from Heraion. We are trying to mentally recreate the process of washing, as vividly described by Teliavgis Demetriou with the large bakiren cauldron where the water was heated, the ‘bugadokofina’, washing with the local soap, perfuming the clothes with ‘nerajophyllas’ (leaves of neratzia) or ‘vagiophyllas’ (bay leaves) and then loulaki, rinsing with clean water, wringing and spreading on the surrounding hedges, on hammocks or ropes.

Across from the fountain is the humble two-story church of Christ and Panagia Vrodiani, with a 1765 date on the interior and ancient architectural elements in one of the two sanctuaries. Steps lead up to the imposing building used by the Turkish governor. Here and the magnificent church of St. Demetrios, built in 1605, with the magnificent bell tower of 1882.

We ascend to the highest point of the village, the chapel of St Ilias. Trees, flowers, wonderful natural environment, view of the plain and the sea, breeze and coolness. A stop is a must.

Going downhill we pass by the quarter of “Arapomahala”. Prickly pear trees, some ruined buildings and immediately after the fountain of “Kadi”, with the old Arabic writing. Further down, the imposing church of Panagia, built in 1608.

We are struck by the heavy wooden door that connects the porch to the nave and consists of 365 pieces, as many as the days of the year. A few dozen metres further on, in a spot with a wonderful view, stands the imposing Chora Primary School, built in 1929-1931, with 131 children and classrooms with the original wooden floor. We then rejoin the main road having completed a circular tour of most of Chora.

Heading uphill to Mauratzaioi we make a stop at the Monastery of Timios Stavros, built at an altitude of 230 m, overlooking the Monastery of the Great Virgin Mary to the southwest. The monastery was consecrated in 1592 by Nilos, who had left the brotherhood of the Great Virgin Mary. The newer katholikon, a three-aisled basilica with a dome, has excellent masonry, columns with capitals and was founded in 1864. The cross of the foundations of the first church, dated 1602, was found in its foundations. The overall building complex is impressive, while inside the church we are in awe of the 1854 gilded wooden iconostasis, one of the largest and most beautiful iconostasis that can be seen in an Orthodox church.

Before the Mavratzaioi we find the church of St. Spyridon, with chipped stone, a work of Theophanes Arelis at the beginning of the 20th century, on the side of the road. He also built the imposing church of St. George of the village with carved angles, adorned in the intermediate slits with the hardy plants of capers. In the part of the wall, under the bell tower, there is a long marble stone with an ancient inscription from Heraion.

Sunday morning. In the tiny village square with its unique tavern, the priest and the villagers drink their coffee under the thick shade of a tree, locally called “jasmi”. Although planted only in 1949, the tree has developed a massive trunk. In a small hollow of the trunk, a wild fig tree, ‘sturnelia’ by the local name, has grown with small white figs.

A small and well-kept settlement, Mavratzaioi with narrow streets, beautiful neoclassical houses and some stone-built ones. Traditional craftsmen were the potters (‘stamnades’) and the sack makers (‘tsvalades’). ‘Mavratzaioi had almost a monopoly of pottery in the whole of Samos’, says N. Dimitriou. Always according to N. Demetriou, exactly when the village was inhabited is unknown, perhaps after 1740. The first to settle with his cattle and his cattle was the Koumaradiotis Gaitanis.

We say goodbye to the priest, the teacher Nikos Orfanos and the cheerful Mavratzaioi who buy us coffee. Everywhere we feel a sweet familiarity, the traditional Greek hospitality is present in every settlement.

We continue NW for Koumadaraeans. Beautiful village, with several old houses, 400 m altitude and a wonderful view of the plain and the sea. Here dominate the ceramics workshops, such as the family of Thanasis Klironomou, who was taught the art in 1981 by the old artisan Stamatis Giannoulis from Mavratziotis, and the workshop of Timoleon Hatzilagou, who has been involved in ceramics for 25 years, applying a specialized technique, where the human factor intervenes in the whole process of construction.

We admire the wonderful forms, the colour tones and the hand-painting of the varied ceramics, which attract numerous Greek and foreign buyers. What to choose first! On the wonderful balcony of her tavern with its unique view, Theologia Klaronomou leaves the ceramics for a while and offers us excellent traditional pancakes, some with local cheese and others with aromatic local honey. Their deliciousness is indescribable, as our taster Michalis Zeevgoulas confirms unequivocally.

-This pancake was the basis of our daily diet in our large family, recalls Mrs Theologia from her childhood.

But the time is passing, we are waiting for us in Pandroso.

“PANDROSO” AND THE PEAK “KARVOUNIS”

Against Theologia’s pancakes we showed restraint. Thank God! Because, a few hours later at Pandroso, we are stunned by what we see. An altitude of 700 meters, a centuries-old plane tree with impenetrable shade, water that murmurs. In this incredible coolness, which is not reminiscent of summer, tables and chairs are laid out. On them are crowded plates and platters of pumpkin blossoms, pancakes, pumpkin omelette, yeast bread, countless doughnuts, “boknes” (those famous black breads), spoon sweets, black bruschetta wine, sweet muscat, 23-degree red sunflower and, I don’t remember, what else.

-Welcome to our land, says George Seraskeris. We thought we’d prepare a small selection of homemade flavors for you.

One by one we are welcomed by the women of Pandroso, responsible for this incredible tasty scene that was set up without our knowledge: the wife of George, Maria, Vice President of the Cultural Association of Pandroso “Agios Dimitrios”, the members of the association Maria and Georgia, Mrs. Evaggelia with the eggs and another Maria, who has brought the pumpkins. The president of the association is coming, Stamatia, not Maria. We all eat and drink, clinking our glasses in succession with all kinds of wines. For dessert we leave the boknes, the unique loukoumades with mashed potatoes that keep crunchy for hours and the spoon sweets. We quench our thirst with the exquisite water of Pandroso, which, coming from high above Karvounis, “is the best water of Samos”, as our friends say, and they are not wrong. I notice all these people, mobilized for us, the hospitable mood, their happy faces. It is something that has been with us from the first day we were in Samos.

Pandroso and Mesogios – the neighbouring settlement as we ascend from Pyrgos – are the modern names (since 1958) of the villages Ano and Kato Arvanites. They are mentioned in the description of Samos by Metropolitan Joseph Georgirini in 1677. According to the most probable version, they were settled after 1562 either by families nicknamed ‘Arvanites’ or by inhabitants coming from Christian Arvanite areas of Attica or Tinos. The villages had agriculture, animal husbandry and were famous for their mountain vineyards. With the huge destruction of the vineyards by phylloxera, the inhabitants began to emigrate to America, Australia and Europe from the late 19th and early 20th century.

According to Christos Landros, ‘both villages are built in an area of great natural beauty. Until the great fire that incinerated the centuries-old forests, the visitor saw an earthly paradise. But they are still one of the most beautiful, cleanest, most welcoming villages on the island. In the centre the square, in a dominant position the church. Around the square the streets and neighborhoods, depending on the morphology of the terrain. Around the village a zone of gardens, which provide food and protection from fires. Another zone, more distant, the vineyards and olive groves, and then the pastures and forests. This is how the structure of villages in the early Byzantine period is described.

-I suggest a walk to higher altitudes, to the top of Ampelos, Karvounis, says George.

We accept enthusiastically. The tough 4×4 climbs up the twists and turns of the dirt road unchallenged, taking us higher and higher up the ridges of Ambelos. We realize once again the magnitude of the disaster of 2000, which almost wiped out the pine forests for which Samos was famous. Describing the island, PIRI REIS wrote that ‘there are trees so tall and thick that they would make masts for the biggest ships’. He obviously meant the huge, straight and century-old black walnut trees, some of which have survived and impress us with their stature.

Now and then I have the feeling that I detect tiny orchids. It is quite possible, since 45 species have been recorded on Samos, an impressive number compared to the size of the island.

6.5 km after Pandroso we reach the top of Karvounis at 1153 meters. A rocky peak but smooth. Chapel of the Prophet’s Chapel with buttresses, like a small fortress resisting the north wind. Panoramic view of all Samos, Asia Minor, Ikaria and Fourni. Here and there mountain tea with its unique aroma. Maistros strong and cool. Here is Yiannis, the shepherd, 62 years old who looks 50, friendly and cheerful, his handshake reminiscent of a clenched pincer.

-50 years I’ve been a shepherd, since I was 12. This is a life I wouldn’t change for anything. Riches and luxuries I mock. So is my mother. At 96, she helps me with all my chores.

He whistles to his sheep that gather near him. He gets to ride down the ridge, brisk and lighthearted.

-Good riddance, my lads.

THE CELEBRATION OF “KLYDONAS”: IN PYTHAGORIO AND PANDROSO

Saturday, June 24, early summer solstice. Orthodoxy celebrates the birthday of John the Baptist. Pythagorio celebrates St. John the “Warmaster”, the traditional “Klydonas”. In the beautiful square “Eirini”, in front of the Town Hall, many people, men, women and children, locals and foreigners. They can’t wait for the festival to begin. The soul of the event is the Cultural Association of Pythagorio, “The Lycurgus”. Its members offer wine, grill on the grill and distribute countless souvlaki, the tickling tzykna scents the atmosphere. Short speeches and then the instruments, the feast, the traditional dances begin. Later the fires are lit. The enthusiasm, of the children especially, is beyond description. It is a sign of manliness not to be afraid of the flames, to walk among them for a second, even if it costs some stinging hairs on the head.

And in other villages Klydonas is celebrated. Where to go first! The next evening we are invited to Pandroso. We can’t refuse! So once again to this beautiful place. A paved uphill street with a central gully for the water, old houses in the colour of lulucca and ochre, a vertical alley that barely fits one person. At the end of the village the spacious square, paved with slabs. Here and the large church of Agios Dimitrios, built in 1863. Nice houses all around, century-old plane tree in the centre. Its thick trunk bent to the south. It was a bust from a young age, its submission to the north wind.

In the evening, the village’s fawns are cool, throwing themselves at his touch. The seats are full, lights everywhere, faces with wide smiles, chatter and banter, some hugging, some hugging, they haven’t been together for years. Present and the family of Mayor Konstantinidis Polycrates. At the site of the large covered fountain at the end of the square, members of the St. Demetrios Association are in overdrive. Smells of grilled and stewed meats, salads, lamarines with potatoes and chicken, plenty of local wine.

It suddenly becomes quiet. A man stands up and takes the microphone. “It’s Christos Landros,” whispers from beside me. He’s a villager, a philologist and a member of the Association. You should definitely meet him. He is Head of the General State Archives, Prefecture of Samos, in Vathi”.

He speaks simply, with humour and emotion, touching the souls of his listeners. They applaud him vigorously and immediately the party starts. They open the dance, not the village beauties, but two “young old men”, stout, same build, obviously friends, with perfect timing. They dance for three minutes like a ballet and then retire discreetly to their seats. They have done their duty.

The party is on. Fine attendance, young and young. And here’s a couple who are dancing. Stepping lightly, moving gracefully, you’d think their feet weren’t touching the ground. At one point one of the two “young old men” walks past me.

-You’ve had a great time, I say to him.

He gives me a smile:

-“We’re old people now.

THE VIRGIN MARY AND THE MYTILINIANS

The Monastery of the Great Virgin Mary is located between Koumaradaia and Myloi. According to tradition, it was founded by Latrin monks in 1586 and is therefore, after Vrontiani, the oldest monastery on Samos. The building complex has a total surface area of 2,350 square meters and impresses us with its masonry and its volume. It was seriously damaged by the fire of 2000 and the restoration work is continuing. The catholic exudes an incredible solemnity with its old floor, the exquisite iconography, the heavy wooden door between the porch and the nave, the reliefs on the marble floor before the iconostasis, which is a real wood-carved masterpiece. The steps of the bishop’s throne are of marble, carved in 1803, and much of the frescoes are still blackened by the soot of the fire.

Near the monastery a good dirt road leads us to the church of St. Taxiarchis, cross-shaped with an 8-sided dome, neatly trimmed walls, lush vegetation all around and a fine view of the plain and the sea.

3 km north of Chora the road brings us to the main village of Mytilinias. An extensive village, with many traditional houses and a labyrinthine road network with narrow lanes leading to picturesque corners. One of them is the beautiful square with shady plane trees, cafes and taverns.

In Mytilinians we visit the cheese dairy of Vourliotis “Oh Prometheus”. Using high technology and using exclusively local milk as raw material, Vourliotis has achieved a range of products of excellent quality, milk, cheese, gruyere, yoghurt and ice cream.

Going up a narrow street from the main road, we pass in front of the bakery of Manolis Martzikos, where, apart from delicious cookies and breads, we discover a folklore treasure. A great variety of old objects of everyday life, almost all the series of coins minted by the Greek state from Kapodistrias until today, but mainly a huge collection of old manuscripts, sales contracts, wills and deeds of the village, the oldest of which is dated 1776! The passion and collecting passion of decades from Mr. Manolis, which could be material for the creation of a Folklore Museum in the village, which, however, has a wonderful Paleontological Museum to show.

It is housed in a building of 1600 square meters, on a plot of 15 acres, donated by the couple Koninos and Maria Zimalis. The noble Nikolaos Zimalis, nephew of the donor, guides us through the various rooms with themes: Palaeontological, Zoological, Mineralogical and Marine. Most important are the fossilized animal bones, 8-10 million years old, such as 3-meter high Mastodon bones, bones of the world’s only short-necked Giraffe, bones of Hyena, Hippopotamus and Oriental Rhinoceros and heads and bones of Gazelle, the species of which was discovered in Mytilinians by the famous Professor SCHLESINGER and gave it the name Gazelle – Mytilinians!

We complete our tour at the nearby Monastery of Saint Trinity. The cruciform church with a dome is built with hewn stone and blocks, while the beautiful marble iconostasis was crafted in Smyrna. Unfortunately, there is only one monk left, the amiable Andreas Karaminas.

PYTHAGORIO

Heraion, neighbouring villages, picturesque mountain settlements. Nice places, with nice people. A real gem among them, with a leading role in archaeological interest and tourist infrastructure, Pythagorio.

Neighborhoods with narrow streets and hills, neoclassical houses with beautiful architecture and modern architecture, jasmine trees and bougainvillea, aromas from everywhere, now and then remnants of the ancient past, walls with beautiful stonework and columns, taverns and bars unexpected in courtyards, small picturesque hotels and ruined buildings with stone walls, courtyard windows with heavy iron construction, tangerine and lemon trees, a large acacia tree whose sticky fruits are used in beech trees, the tower of the chieftain Lycurgus Logothetis, Peace Square, the Town Hall, the bust of Pythagoras, helpful and polite people, relaxed and human rhythms and suddenly the waterfront with the Aegean breeze. Fishing boats and small boats, moored side by side with the yachts, pedestrian walkway and countless shops lined up in a row in front of the sea, taverns, cafes, bars, restaurants, each with its own furniture, its own music and personality, a crowd of people, most of them foreigners.

At the E-E end of the pier the bronze composition of Pythagoras with the rectangular triangle, a work of fascinating inspiration by the sculptor Icarus. Further back is the large marina with its state-of-the-art facilities, a cutting-edge development project that will contribute to the sharp rise in the level of tourism in Pythagorio. A place altogether wonderful, cosmopolitan but calm and civilized, with one of the most beautiful waterfronts in Greece and a harbor protected from everywhere. Higher up on the west, the hill of Astypalaea in the falls of Ambelos, with its ancient walls and the Monastery of Spiliani. Picturesque Pythagorio, in its N-NE part amphitheatrical, surrounds with plasticity and grace the magnificent harbour. Here we end up almost every evening after our day-long wanderings, for Sami wine or drinks and a late night’s reminiscence. That’s when the last sleepy Pythagorean lovers leave.

EPILOGUE

Tilaugis Demetriou and Matroni Ktistou take us on a long tour of the facilities of the amazing seaside complex DORISSA BAY in Potokaki. Countless trees, shrubs and plants, paved alleys and squares with their name and exclusively for pedestrian use. Two-storey accommodations with elaborate construction, none alike, reminiscent of houses with the traditional architecture and peculiarities of every corner of the Greek countryside. An innovative idea and an excellent execution.

But DORISSA BAY is not just a unit of distinctive specifications. It is, above all, an organisation that preserves tradition with its Folklore Museum of unique beauty and completeness and produces culture with its state-of-the-art conference centre and its numerous publications, which exceed 30 and cover all aspects of the historical, archaeological and folklore wealth of Samos.

We leave fascinated by this place and by our experience with its people.

REFERENCES

1 Eleni Dimas, “The airport of Samos”, SAMIAC MELETES, TOMOS EKTOS, 2003-2004.

2 Konstantinos Tsakos, “SAMOS”, Historical and Archaeological Guide, ed. ESPEROS, Athens 2003.

3 Nikolaos Demetriou, “LAGRAPHIC COLLECTIONS AND DISCUSSIONS”, SAMIAKI Epitheorisi, April 1967.

4 F. Kontoglou, “Samos 1959”

5. H.J. KIENAST, “THE TOWER OF SARAKINI IN SAMO”, (“SAMOS FROM THE BYZANTINE YEARS TO THE PRESENT”, NIKOLAOS DIMITRIU Foundation, ATHENS 1998).

6. “THE LAUNDRY IN THE MONASTERY OF THE HOLY CROSS IN SAMOS”, SAMIAN STUDIES, VOLUME FIVE, 2001-2002

7. N.A. N.N. Demetriou “HISTORY OF THE MYRAJAI”, ATHENS 1990

8. Christos Landros, “PANAROS”

9. Haris Koutelakis, “ANEQUENT HISTOROGRAPHY OF THE LIBRARY OF PARIS AND THE SAMOS”, SAMIAC STUDIES, VOLUME THREE.

10. George Fakas, “AUTOPHYSEOUS ORCHIDES OF SAMOS”, Apoplous, 31-32, Fthinop. 2004, Samos.

11. Sp. Papaioannou, “CHURCHES AND MONASTERIES OF SAMU”, Pneum. NIKOLAOS DIMITRIOU Foundation, ATHENS 1997.