PURI – VENETO: THE LONGEST PATH

-I wish you could walk the long path. Unfortunately, it is now closed. Deceptive for so many years, he became a scholar.

With these words we were greeted by our friends in Veneto. We had just completed the trail, which after three and a half hours took us to Veneto from Pano Kerasia. The day before, a shorter trail had led us to the historic Flamouri Monastery.(1)

-And what is the long path?

-A, the longest of Pelion. It once joined our village with Puri.

The late Nikos Charatsis wrote of this path that “it is the longest path on Pelion. It is a path that requires a lot of courage, good preparation and not to be followed by people who are not tested on long routes“(2)

This was happening in the summer of 2006 in Veneto. In this lonely edge of North Pelion, we lived, with the few locals, moments of tranquility and authentic hospitality.

We left the village, the path faded into memory. Until the beginning of March, when we were reminded of it by the Volos Pseudo-Faith Group, “PAN“, a historical association, founded in 1934. The simple description stated: “Hours: 9 – degree of difficulty: 2/5, due to long duration. Degree of beauty: 3/5. Easy crossing of the virgin and wild northeastern side of Pelion, with views of the blue Aegean Sea in dense vegetation and approaching steep coasts and beaches.

-After so many years of being closed, the trail has finally opened, says Giannis Prokopiou, Secretary of the Group.

He didn’t have to try to convince us. The prospect of the crossing was in itself a powerful incentive for us to sign up immediately. What we didn’t know was that the “easy crossing” mentioned in the description had ceased to be easy after 15 days of rain in the area.

JUST BEFORE THE START

We leave the city of Volos with mild weather. After the heights of Ano Volos, the twists and turns of Portaria unfold mysteriously, submerged in fog. As we ascend towards Chania, snow appears on the slopes of the road, constantly rising.

–At the tri-stratum you will find, you will leave the car and turn left uphill towards the aviation facilities, the instructions say.

We take the uphill with our meager luggage. We don’t have a flashlight but it’s not necessary either. In the half-light of the white night the eyes quickly get used to it. We do not walk for long. At the next bend we see the lights of the shelter. We start to climb the white slope. For a path we have the deep gully, created by the footsteps of those who came before. The snow is more than 70 centimetres high. The march is tiring.

We arrive at the shelter at 11 o’clock sharp. At the opening of the door a breath of warm air blurs our faces. A fireplace is lit, beech logs and all around a company of men and women, who greet us with abundant cordiality. They are members of PANOS but also of the host S.E.O. of Thessaloniki. This mountaineering club is inextricably linked to my late father and to some unforgettable climbs on Olympus.

Of the many and varied things they offer for dinner we settle for a cup of tea with honey. We enjoy the fragrant drink and the company of the mountaineers in the stone-built hall, which reminds us more of a Pelion mansion than a mountain shelter. The alarm, however, at five-thirty in the morning forces us to leave the nice atmosphere.

A few hours later, the shelter comes alive. Lights are turned on, speeches begin, boots, raincoats, batons, food and water, cameras and GPS are brought in. The time of departure is approaching.

STARTING FROM PURI

At 7 in the morning the bus starts going down to Puri. It’s still mesocotado, cloudy and gloomy, with sleet and a temperature of around 0. Incredible snow covering the sides of the road and the slopes. An hour later we reach Puri. Writes Nikos Diamantakos (3):”The village is built on a downhill slope, facing east and has a vast view of the Aegean Sea… The average altitude is 450m. but the lower houses with the upper ones have an altitude difference of about 150m., so no house blocks the view of the other towards the lavender“.

8:15′. Waterproofs, hoodies and we’re off in the rain. For a few minutes we go down a crappy concrete road. Then we turn right onto a cobbled road, which enters a lush gully.

8:30′. We arrive at an amazing water source, flowing from the depths of a huge plane tree. We fill our canteens. Intel says there’s no more water on the route. A downhill cobbled path follows, covered with dry leaves and mud. It is very slippery, walk with great care.

8:50′. At an altitude of 220m. we pass the Dry creek, which is not only dry. We ascend the slope of a large gorge. The rain is falling non-stop. Slow-moving streams run everywhere. It’s a Pelion in winter, not particularly friendly but very authentic. Many ancient writers praised it with various adjectives. As Kostas Liapis (4) mentions, Pelion is “a virgin and densely wooded place overgrown by the mountainous dunes, deeply carved by steep gorges and full of an astonishing variety of herbs. A place that is often lost in the powder and snow or overwhelmed by the winds and strong winds’.

The northeastern edge of this magnificent mountain, of centaurs and myths, we cross on this March morning. A morning that swings indecisively between Spring and Winter. But as the drops thin out, the weather begins to open up. We emerge into a clearing, a dirt road begins, stable, without the slipperiness of the cobblestone streets.

9:10′. Almost an hour after our departure we meet a fork and go uphill to the left. The vegetation is always dense with dominant heather, heather and heather trees. From the grassy ground, soaked by rain, emerge delicate white and pink primroses, purple anemones, and stunning “motherwort“, with their bright red balls, the “lollies” as they are called here. Down low and the notorious little sandy beach of Ovrios.

9:50′. Having travelled just over 5km, we arrive at the mountainous stream of “Lagonika“, with the equally imposing “Axial Bridge of Diakoumis“. Liapis considers it the highest in Pelion, while Charatsis says: (5) “At this point, on the trunk of a walnut tree, I have nailed a sign indicating the arched bridge and the Old Mitzela, for those who come from Puri and go to Veneto or Flamouri.”

We treat ourselves to a few minutes’ pause, transfixed by the wild beauty of the gorge. Then the uphill, winding cobblestone road begins again. Let us enjoy Liapis’s brilliant pen for the cobbled streets of Pelion: (6) “From a first approach, the old cobbled streets of Pelion are, at first glance, creations of everyday use, in essence, works of particularly stubborn toil and incredible patience… With their correct slopes, their characteristic “kagiolia” and the necessary terraces (“pasmakia” they call them in Pelion), which helped and gave rhythm to both the breath and the gait of people and animals.

Unfortunately, however, for some years now, most of these white touches have either been torn up by the bulldozers, or covered with the barbaric cement, or abandoned by everyone and slowly drowned by the orgiastic and wild Pelion vegetation. And fortunately again that in recent times…several of these great old cobbled streets…have been restored in an exemplary manner and cleared of the wild bushes that covered them, handed over again to the common use, not of course of the few sub-zymes of Pelion but of local and foreign walkers and travellers“.

FROM THE OLD MITZELLA TO THE BEACH OF LIMNIONAS

10:00′. The uphill ends. We come out in a clearing, at an altitude of 200 meters. The view of the Aegean Sea is magnificent. A narrow, dirt path begins, crossing the few ruins of Palia Mitzela. Liapis writes (7): “About ten kilometers north of Puri, in wooded areas, are the building remains of the village of Mitzela, which, according to all indications, was burned by the Turks in 1828, for the struggles of the sailors of the village against them… A folk song praises the heroic resistance of the Mitzelites and the sacrifice of some Mitzelites who, in order not to fall into the hands of the enemy and be disgraced, fell like other Souliotes on the rugged cliffs“.

After the destruction of Mitzela most of the inhabitants passed through by ship to Skiathos. Six years later they settled on a beach on the Pagasitikos near Almyros and named their village Nea Mitzela. A few years later they renamed it Amalia, in honor of Queen Amalia.

Outside the boundaries of the once thriving village, we find a small stream cascading down the smooth rock surface. We cross it easily and emerge on the opposite slope. Above our heads are crowded sycamore, chestnut and oak trees. Their dry leaves have for months covered the path, which, after the rains, is full of mud and moisture. The place around us gives off a genuine autumn atmosphere. At some point the path penetrates into dense vegetation of tall grasses, bushes and trees. It certainly would have been jungle impenetrable before the recent widening work. Today it is an idyllic natural passageway that simply needs periodic maintenance.

10:45′. We come out on a dirt road, at an altitude of 245 meters. Here the sign “02 EOS Volos” dominates. About 100 meters later an unexpected surprise awaits us: It is the second spring, flowing briskly through a wooden spout on the left slope of the road. A little further up, we head right towards “Perivolia” (on the left the road goes uphill towards Kokkinogeia). It is a pleasant route among heather, kumarias, aria and abacinias. The booming, angry stream “Volias“, descends from the wooded slope and cuts the road. Impossible to cross it without soaking our shoes. We pass a succession of streams, all lively, with lots of water. We reach a fork, in the beautiful location “Perivolia”. Somewhere here, unseen off the road, is the chapel of Agios Ioannis, where Purians gather and celebrate in the summers.

11:30′. Hours pass, we continue to march at a good pace. The road ends, a downhill, muddy path begins. Which takes us to the nice gully with the “Kerasorema“.

We ascend a slope overgrown with aria trees. The drilling work is also very visible here. The logging product, however, has not been collected. Instead, the branches and trunks of the felled trees form piles, which occupy every part of the path. For 10 minutes we balance on muddy, slippery logs. With real relief we rejoin a normal trail at the end of the climb. From the clearing we briefly gaze at the Aegean Sea, a blue parenthesis between the long dominance of green.

A path begins in the woods, downhill, winding, winding and slippery. In many places the openings have created a natural tunnel in this rugged Pelion slope. which lowers and lowers towards the surface of the Aegean without end.

13:15′. Exactly five hours after our departure we are over Limniona, the most charming cove on this coastline. The pebbly little beach is enclosed by rugged, grey-white limestone and its opening is just over 30 metres wide. With sunshine and bunches the waters of Limnionas have an exquisite clarity and turquoise tones. Where we had the good fortune to enjoy five years ago, on the seaward approach to the rocky – and cavernous – shoreline.

FROM LIMNIONAS TO VENETO

One by one the last hikers arrive. They sit down on the pebbles with backpacks and sticks, take out the little food and water bottles. Others are resting, resting their backs on the rocks, gazing at the troubled sea. On such a much more turbulent sea, two and a half thousand years ago, a great historical event took place:

“On these steep shores the greater part of Xerxes’ fleet was broken in 480 B.C.. Throughout this area where the path runs, from Veneto to Old Mizella, you rarely meet a human being. It’s a wild and desolate area. On the upper side, towards the mountain, endless forests of beech, chestnut, heather, heather, holly and holly trees cover the ridges and gullies that descend to the inhospitable shores. On the lower side, the Aegean Sea grows wild and, like a beast, rushes and strikes at the rocky shores, which are resisting heartily. And between these two wild elements, the forest and the sea, the path marches calmly, silently, lonely and asphalted to its destination. Joy to those who will have the courage to walk it“. (8)

13:55′. After a 40 minute stop we leave the coast. We follow for a few minutes the rough bed of a ravine. Then the path starts again, uphill, well-marked and well-marked on the densely wooded slope. We go up and down on successive hills and corresponding gullies. It is a difficult course, on rocky, slippery terrain.

15:15′. We reach a rocky hill, above a wild canyon. The view is imposing over sea and land. To the northwest we can see the trace of a dirt road that climbs up to the unseen Veneto. It is a road known from long ago, which ends at an inaccessible coast. It’s obvious we’re getting closer. It’s just that the dirt road, although it looks very close, is actually not close at all. There are two gorges in between, one of them cavernous and the other with plenty of clear water. There’s a bare plateau with a corral in between. Here the signage is not particularly clear. With a little observation we spot a wooden sign with the word “Veneto” engraved on a tree trunk. 100 metres further on, the upright sign indicating the path stands out.

16:35′. The long hours of slippery, rocky terrain are coming to an end. We finally leave the densely wooded paths and step onto the dirt road. The climb is persistent and long. On the left of the road we meet a corral. The shepherd greets us cheerfully.

-You come from Flamouri?

-No, from Puri.

-Oh, it’s a long way. But now you’re there. You’ll be in the village in ten minutes.

The shepherd’s assessment turned out to be very optimistic. Obviously to give us courage. We need at least 20 minutes to the first houses and another 10 minutes to the village square. The time is 17:45′. We have completed nine and a half hours on the road of which, the hours of clean driving are eight and a half exactly.

After five years, Venetian Square brings back many pleasant memories. But also an irresistible desire for a few minutes’ stop, a cigarette, even if it is a simple one. We are lucky. On a Sunday afternoon, Giannis Koletsios relaxes in his shop after the midday invasion of patrons, locals and foreigners alike. The shopkeeper makes small talk.

-We are hurrying, John, the bus is waiting for us.

With lightning speed, Yannis brings the tsipouros, prepares simple snacks, which at this time look like delicacies. We drink the cold, mountain water of Veneto. It is very desirable after exhausting our supplies so long ago.

EPILOGUE

At the entrance of the village the bus is waiting for us with the engine on. The members of the two groups, the S.E.O. and the PANA are already in their seats, eager to begin the night journey to Chania. A cheerful atmosphere is pervasive, visible in the conversations, in everyone’s happy faces. Although most of them are used to long marches, they do not hide their satisfaction for crossing the longest, most demanding Pelion path.

REFERENCES

(1) ELLINIKO PANORAMA, issue 53, SEP-OCT. 2006.

(2) Charatsis N., “Guide to Pelion for walkers”, p. 44, Volos 1995.

(3) “To Puri. The multi-track village of Pelion”.

(4) “PILIO, recollections-coughs-confessions”, 2010.

(5) Charatsis N., op.p. 47.

(6) “PILIO”, op. cit. 66. 41-42.

(7) “PILION MOUNTAIN, HISTORY, TRADITION, CULTURE, TRADITION”, p. 125.

(8) “Guide to Pelion for walkers”, p. 45.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

-Liapis Kostas, “Pelion Mountain HISTORY, TRADITION, CULTURE, EXPERIENCE”, Zagora 2001.

-Liapis Kostas, “Paliokastra of Pelion”, Volos 2010.

-Liapis Kostas, “PILIO retrospections, sorrows, confessions”, Volos 2010.

-Diamantakos Nikos, “To Puri. The village of Pelion”, Volos 1997.

-Haratsis Nikos, “Guide to Pelion for walkers”, Volos 1995.

MAP

North Pelion – Mavrovouni 1:50.000, Anavasi.

THANKS TO

-The Volos Naturalist Club, “Pan” and personally the General Secretary Giannis Prokopiou.

-The S.E.O. of Thessaloniki and personally Anestis Giannikopoulos and Thanasis Baltatzis, President and General Secretary, respectively, of the Association.