If someone were to ask me what the most obvious difference is between today’s Preveza and the one I knew a few decades ago, I would answer: the sun!

Not that it was brighter then. It just penetrated the city more. It moved more freely on the low roofs of the houses with their old yellowish tiles. He spent much more time playing in the green foliage of oranges and lemons, in the alleyways and small courtyards with their fragrant jasmine trees and their exuberant bougainvillea. Then the height of the buildings was shorter, the horizon more open and the shadows fewer. In the neighbourhood everyone knew each other, as they once did in all the cities of Greece.

And today? What is left of that romantic and innocent Preveza?

Let’s not rush to answer. And – above all – let us not trust our first, fleeting glance, the one that will inevitably meet buildings in a row and busy streets. Another Preveza, carefully hidden and unexpected, with humble little houses, narrow streets and courtyards, living and breathing the little oxygen that remains. And above all, it still persists and insists on remembering.

I don’t know how much longer this city will last and how historic – after a few years – some of the photos in this article will be. That is up to the patriotism of the Prevezan people…

BROWSING IN SPACE AND TIME

– It seems to me that this completes the bibliography you need, Nikos Karabelas tells me.

With these words, the President of the non-profit foundation “Aktia Nikopolis” pulls another book from the overloaded shelves of the library and puts it on the desk. I stare in amazement at the pile of books that has been growing for hours. All about Preveza! And among them are old maps, wonderful engravings and prints, blueprints of forts and battles, countless collectible postcards, black and white photographs by famous Greek and foreign photographers, precious documents from an era that has been lost forever.

The atmosphere at the headquarters of the Aktias Nikopolis Foundation is austere, exuding a strong aura of history and the past. These stunning quality papers with their original engravings and maps are imbued with the indelible smell of the legendary printers who printed them. I touch these rare relics with awe. And how could I not be in awe when I am standing in front of one of the four maps by Antonio Salamanca, which is still known worldwide, produced around 1550(!) and depicts the area of the 1538 Battle of Preveza. Or when I stand in front of one of the oldest maps of Preveza, the engraving by Lafreri showing the Bay of Preveza from 1570! Or when I observe the extraordinary details and incredible artistry of the map by the greatest Venetian cartographer Coronelli “Golfo della Preveza” of 1691, one of the masterpieces of 17th century cartography. Or even when I admire Montagu’s rare map of 1750 entitled “Mappa Topographica Veteris Epiri”, which not even Zacharakis records in his detailed catalogue of maps of Greece.

Touching all these relics, I feel that although they were born many centuries ago, they are still alive, still giving off the breath of their creators.

This unique collection of maps includes more than five hundred (500!) maps and engravings concerning the region of Preveza, the Amvrakikos Gulf and NW Greece in general. It is the product of systematic research and methodical efforts – for decades – of Nikos D. Karambela, in all the major auctions, Greek and international, but also in the most unlikely places in the world, where the collector, with his keen intuition, suspected the existence of some rare object. Listening to Nikos recounting some of these incredible cases, I think I find myself in front of a reality not unlike a fascinating novel. This rare collection came to the “Aktias Nikopolis” Foundation in December 1999 with its establishment. It is catalogued and archived and is accessible to any researcher with an interest in the subject.

The work of the Foundation is of great importance for the city of Preveza: Continuous research, collection of rare books and documents, creation of a library of mainly historical interest for the region, a plethora of excellent publications, granting scholarships to special researchers with a focus on Preveza, organization of symposia, workshops and lectures, support of standard actions for the protection of the environment and national heritage. The city of Preveza is fortunate to enjoy the presence and creative activity of the “Aktias Nikopolis” Foundation. May other cities find imitators.

After the strong emotions at the Foundation’s offices, the setting sun finds us relaxing on the south of the city’s beach, at the AMICO tourist pavilion. It’s a café-bar with a beautiful wooden platform, a small artificial peninsula literally on the sea. In front of us stretches the entire vast waterfront of Preveza, while, a stride away, the coast of Aktion, with the castle and the forest of sailing ships’ masts. Just below our little table, the serene waters of the Gulf of Preveza, which, as the sun sets, gradually change colour. It is a spot and some images that no visitor to this city should be deprived of.

Spyros Vangelakis, our Preveza photographer partner, who of course acts as a host in his hometown, could not be absent from our company.

– Do you suspect what is hiding under this nice café?, asks Nikos Karabelas at some point.

– I guess the sea, replies Anna.

– But at the bottom it hides the foundations of the “Castle of Bouka”, the old Preveza, our friend adds.

– So there is a castle underneath?

– Only its foundations. But it was once a mighty fortification, built by the Ottomans, namely Bayazid II in 1486/87 and in 1495, a few years after the conquest of Preveza by Mohammed II the Conqueror. The castle of Buka was fortified in 1530 by Suleiman the Magnificent and the city remained in Ottoman hands until 1684.

The most important event of this period in the history of the region was the famous “Battle of Preveza” in September 1538. During this battle the notorious admiral Hayredin Pasha Barbarossa (the notorious ‘Red Beard’) defeated the combined Western fleet of Emperor Charles V, Pope Paul III and the Venetians, led by the famous Genoese Andrea Doria.

– And why was the castle razed to the ground?

– On 29 September 1684, Preveza fell into the hands of the Venetians and its fortress was captured by the Venetian admiral Francesco Morosini. This Venetian occupation lasted until 1701, because with the Treaty of Karlovy Vary of 1699 Preveza was surrendered to the Turks.

However, one condition of the treaty was that the mighty Castle of Buka had to be demolished, which was blown up. Obvious remains of the foundation can be seen, a little further down, at the Sailor’s Monument, erected in memory of the unfortunate sailors of the minesweeper “Pinios”.

Thus ends the story of the Castle of Bouka, the oldest fortification of Preveza, which was supported by towers at key points in the surrounding area. Much later, in 1807, Ali Pasha built ‘Saraya’, an important complex of buildings used as a command post and summer palace, on the site of the Castle of Buka, which was described by foreign travellers who visited it in the 1810s. This wider area has since been known as ‘Paliosaraga’. The baths (hamam) of Ali Pasha are also preserved nearby. Today they are sulphuric thermal baths that are to be transformed into a Thermalist Centre.

The surface of the sea darkens, the lights of Preveza come on, in the half-light the city acquires a romantic appearance, any architectural weaknesses disappear. Every minute the movement on the beach becomes more lively. After the heat of the day, Prevezans and foreigners alike pour onto the waterfront, rushing to the bars, cafes and taverns to take the most privileged seats.

These are of course the front seats, which ensure a direct view not only of the sea horizon but -most importantly- of the famous “Preveza’s ride”. It is this long-established endless “go-around” of countless people of all ages, but above all of the “fair sex”, who, with their light clothing and beautifully sunburnt bodies, attract the admiration of the observers.

Opposite the land observers are the sea observers. Countless sailing boats are suffocatingly moored, side by side, all along the long waterfront. Most of them belong to foreigners, Europeans as a rule, who have either rented them for the duration of their holidays or – more commonly – they are privately owned, wintering and maintained in the safe harbours of Aktion and Preveza. It is a multi-ethnic and diverse community of people, which throughout the summer season, gives a special image, a cosmopolitan air to Preveza. Many of them are likeable figures, some with sailor’s caps, others with beards, some with impressive tattoos and most with bronze and sturdy bodies. There are quite a few of them, who choose the Preveza area as their summer destination for many years in a row, a fact that has connected them with long-lasting friendships with the local population.

Observing this crowd, the carefree and pleasant mood, I cannot help but remember another image of Preveza’s beach, rainy and melancholy, in early spring, without this wonderful “walk” and the crowd of people. Nick brings me back to reality:

– Let me suggest for dinner some of the most exciting products of Amvrakikos, the well-known sardines, the famous “petali” and the delicious shrimps.

– What is a pedali?, asks Anna.

– You’ll see, or rather you’ll taste, Spyros replies.

From the centre of the beach we take a vertical alleyway. In a few seconds we have the feeling that we are in another place, completely different. Where is the scent of steaming coffee and the sea breeze? Where is the open horizon? We are suddenly walking, or rather trying to make our way through a labyrinth of unlikely intersecting alleys, whose non-existent surface is crowded with countless people around the tables of countless taverns and ouzeri. The passage left by the little tables between them is minimal, barely fitting a passerby in a “one-way” direction. The strange thing is that even though the road is used the “two-way” way, everyone in the end manages to get through. But it’s impossible for everyone to find a table unless they are desperately looking up and down.

A permanent cloud hovers over our heads. It’s the fragrant and incredibly ticklish tickle so characteristic of grilled fish, especially sardines. At some point, quite unexpectedly, a small table next to us empties. It’s a real stroke of good fortune that we take advantage of in a flash.

Of course, the way we settle in is not a model of comfort and spaciousness, but we are grateful because we suddenly belong to the privileged seated.

In my comfort I now observe the situation all around me. There is a real pandemonium. The waiters, with both hands full of their customers’ orders, are making their way through the solid mass with admirable skill, without causing an accident on the back or head of anybody. Everybody is in a state of cheerfulness, as evidenced by the white wine canoes that come and go. Everyone is also talking loudly, their voices blending with the various kinds of music emanating from each tavern. The end result is a raucousness beyond belief. But equally incredible in uniqueness and picturesqueness is the overall atmosphere of the place. I don’t remember seeing anything similar in any other city in Greece so far. Perhaps only in the area around Athonos Square in Thessaloniki, which is however far behind in terms of “decibels”.

Sometimes we manage to order and sometimes what we have ordered arrives! Sardines, petal and shrimps. For the sardines I have to say, that they are always ordered – along with everything else – by every Prevezan who respects his origins. That is why they are called ‘sardelades’. Their deliciousness is amazing and is largely due to the waters of the Amvrakikos and to their excellent roasting. The prawns too, fried or with sauce, are beyond criticism.

– And what kind of fish is this?, asks Anna.

– Our famous “petali”, replies Spyros.

– But this one looks like a cephalopod, Anna continues with obvious disappointment.

Measuring close to a kilo and split in two from head to tail, the fish is cooked superbly and smells of the sea. Having been left, as it is open, for hours in the salt, it has acquired an incredible deliciousness with cooking, which Anna immediately admits with enthusiasm.

– We were lucky, after all, to have been introduced to these exquisite flavours so early, I tell Nikos. I predict “fish therapy” for the days we stay.

Much later we rediscover the peace of the beach. Although midnight has long since passed, the vibrancy of Preveza at night is still undiminished. The people here know how to enjoy every moment of ephemeral life.

THE TOUR CONTINUES

Early Sunday morning. Preveza is still asleep after Saturday’s late night. I head down Fountain Avenue towards the sea. It is the longest road in the city, over a kilometre long. It cuts the city in two and could be said to divide it into eastern, with the beach and the historic centre, and western, with the other districts. Peace Avenue was once a riverbed, but in the 1950s it was covered over to serve the city’s road needs. It retained the name “River”, however.

At one point Peace Avenue meets a small square under development and then, it extends as Polytechnic Avenue now on the coast. So I am at “Paliosaraga”, between the Municipal Café and the Thermal Baths. Large eucalyptus and plane trees cast their shadows. I sit on a bench and gaze across the coast of Aitoloakarnania with the castle of Aktion, erected by Ali Pasha in 1819; fishing boats come and go, lapping the calm waters of the bay, two fishermen with their rods fishing from the edge of the shore. In front of me stretches a beautiful sandy beach, ending in clear and shallow waters. I think about how privileged the people of Preveza are, that within minutes of the city centre, they can find themselves on such a beautiful sandy beach. As confirmation of my thought, I see the first arrivals. Almost everyone is middle-aged or older, the youth at seven-thirty in the morning sleeping after the Saturday night romp. I hear them talking animatedly, exchanging “good mornings”; in the small society of Preveza they all know each other. Without hesitation they throw themselves into the sea and enjoy its cool attractions and the innocent – still – rays of the sun.

I continue my seaside trek to the west, at the exit of the city.

Summer cinema “Blue Coast”, remnants of a low enclosure that reaches up to the castle of St. George and then the Swimming Pool, created in the 1970s on a site that was once the sea. Without realising it, I am already walking over the onshore section of the submarine tunnel that connected by road the two landmasses at the entrance to the Amvrakikos Gulf, Preveza and Aktion. With a length of 1800m, the tunnel was opened in the summer of 2002 and replaced the time-consuming way of moving people and goods by traditional ferry-boats.

I reach the fortress of St. George, with its massive and excellent masonry. It was about this fort that Tr. Evaggelidis (“Nea Ellas”, Athens 1913) that “…. beside the beach there is also the enclosed fortress of St. George, oblong in shape, 200 meters long and 75 meters wide, with two bastions on the edges of the N side”.

The seaside walk continues and is like a journey back to the recent history of Preveza, since four traditional restaurants, ‘Kyani Akti’, ‘Agrambeli’, ‘Panorama’ and ‘Loukia’, once flourished in this area. Today, ‘Kyani Akti’ operates as a café, ‘Loukia’ as a restaurant-café and ‘Panorama’ has closed. Only ‘Agrabeli’ continues its traditional operation, uninterrupted since 1940. In this tasty corner of the old Preveza people we have the luck to meet with Nikos Karambela and his family some lunchtimes and moonlit evenings. Away from the noise and cars and with our table by the sea, the excellent Greek cuisine of Agrambelis and the fresh fish of Amvrakikos is a real treat. It is a place, which does not combine the explosive “temperament”, the crowds and the picturesque feast of the ouzeri of the centre, but it is ideal for moments of relaxation, quiet conversation, excellent cuisine and relaxation in the seascape of the bay.

The scent of the forest of huge eucalyptus trees, a valuable asset for Preveza since 1947, is diffused throughout the area.

– Even though so many years have passed, I always remember that time, when, as young scouts back then, we planted the young seedlings of eucalyptus trees, says veterinarian Andreas Donos, a man with a sweet nature and a good sense of humour, with nostalgia one evening in Agrabeli.

– It was impossible to imagine at the time that those skinny saplings would one day hide the sky and be a reference point for this part of the city, concludes Mr. Andreas.

Continuing a little further to the southwest, I reach the refugee settlement of Pantokrator with the church of the Transfiguration of the Saviour, whose iconostasis bears images signed by Fotis Kontoglou.

The highlight of the area is the picturesque castle of Pantokrator, isolated on the edge of the coast. It too was erected by Ali Pasha in 1807 and, together with the one opposite Aktio, formed the independent fortresses of the overall defensive armouring of the city. This extensive fortification also included the reinforcement of the ruined Castle of St. Andrew in the northern part of the city, which was then called ‘Itz Kale’ (inner fortress). A little further north, Ali Pasha, at Pekakia, erected an artillery battery, the coastal bastion of Vrysoula.

But the most important fortification work that Ali Pasha built in Preveza and is remembered by all historians with detailed descriptions was the moat, the famous “dapia”, which surrounded the entire old city of Preveza. According to the description of the local historian G. The dapia that surrounded the city of Preveza was the largest technical work that has been done in our country to date. The technical elements of the project support this view. The fortification was four kilometres long and had a trench five metres deep, built on both sides. On the city side it had a strong wall supported by ramparts, while on the country side it had an embankment. The dapia had three bridges and three gates for the entrance to the city: the gate of Vrysoula on the NE next to the bastion of the same name, the gate of Nikopolis or Messini on the N and the gate of Prophet Elias on the W. With the liberation the walls of the dapia were destroyed by the inhabitants and used as building material for their houses, the moat was filled in and covered by roads and houses. Thus today nothing reminds the newcomers of the existence of the once famous dapia.

IN SEARCH OF PICTURESQUE CORNERS IN THE CITY’S HISTORIC CENTRE

I return from Pantokrator in the direction of the centre. The sun has risen considerably and is also pushing the temperature upwards. The shady tree line of eucalyptus trees is a temporary cool shelter, but not for long. There are few morning bathers left on the sandy beach of “Paliosaragon”. Only the amateur fishermen – many more now – remain undaunted in their place. The way their rods are slightly sloping, they seem to be paying homage to the sea.

I pass by the Sailor’s Monument and immediately afterwards the Amico Café. With a cold coffee in front of them, the first morning customers are struggling to shake off their sleepiness. I am already on the coastal avenue Eleftherios Venizelos, the much-troubled street, which, at the discretion of the municipal authorities, has undergone several name changes, until the current one was finalized. The graceful sailing boats with their white albums sparkle in the sunlight and in the waters of the sea. On some the usual pre-departure activity can be seen, on others the decks are dominated by the expected laziness of Sunday morning.

I leave the touristy and untidy beach and head inland. At the height of Prussis Street, where the offices of “Aktias Nikopolis” are located, I meet the third major road of Preveza, after Irini and El. Venizelos. It is “Ethnikis Antistaseos”, which starts from the Castle of Ag. Venizelos – the historic city center and ends at the point where I am. A leisurely stroll along Ethnikis Antistaseos and its side streets can fill a visitor’s entire morning and discover with unexpectedly beautiful images the traditional and romantic identity of Preveza, as long as at least part of it remains. Among the colourless two- and three-storey buildings, many hours of the day covered by their shade, low detached houses with their characteristic tiled roofs and courtyards still stubbornly resist. There are far fewer of them than the ones I knew twenty years ago, and it is likely that they will dwindle further over time; but in these courtyards, few of which are larger than a few dozen square metres, orange, lemon and tangerine trees, bougainvillea, jasmine trees and flower pots are crowded but survive. In some larger ones it is not unlikely to see a few rows of well-planted vegetables. I am sure that many apartment housewives with narrow balconies would envy the mistresses of these humble dwellings who, despite their lack of amenities, still at least enjoy their plants, flowers and trees and, above all, the direct contact with the soil of their yards.

Apart from its humble houses, however, Preveza reveals to us, not unfortunately very often, examples of its past nobility and pride.

There are some magnificent two-storey mansions, which stand out with their volume and the simplicity of their lines, the large oblong windows, the chipped stones, the intricate wrought-iron railings on the balconies, with sometimes iron and sometimes stone foyers. Some retain in their coatings ochre and saumont shades, which remain original from the time of their creation.

Our dear friend Nikos Karambelas never tires of adding plenty of information and facts to this walk, which gradually evolves into a fascinating journey through the historical route of the last centuries of the city. It describes the identity of the most important buildings, the qualities of their owners, historical events and situations associated with them. Next to him Spyros Vangelakis photographs, listens and learns unknown aspects of the history of his city. What can one expect from this volume of data and information!

Here is the stately house of Donos, the old Mammati, a building of the mid-18th century! In this house the famous Father Cosmas the Aetolian stayed for some time.

One of his shirts and a letter dated 1779, urging the Prevezans to establish and maintain a school for their town, still survives. There is also the Chavini house, built in 1881, where the Italian Consulate was based. A little further on, a three-storey building of the house of Konemenos, the radical 19th century scholar and thinker, which housed the English Consulate, while the two-storey house of Skeferis was the home of the Russian Consulate.

The Ethnikis Antistaseos is already taking the form of a lovely, paved pedestrian street, from which many paved alleys, some of which are no more than two to three metres wide, start either inland or towards the beach. This whole labyrinthine network, with no particular urban claims, constitutes the historic centre of Preveza, a ‘special’ city within the city, human, free of cars, picturesque and fascinating at every step, which in itself constitutes a tourist attraction. Even if architectural elements foreign to the character of the place have crept in, sometimes brutally. The area preserves its uniqueness and its glamour; its allies are, first of all, the innumerable taverns, which at this time of course are calming down, preparing for their midday and – above all – evening occupation by the hundreds of locals and visitors.

Then there are the numerous shops of all kinds with their varied merchandise. Some of them have stamped their presence on the town’s recent history, such as the famous coffee shop of “Kostoulas”, which has maintained a family tradition of coffee since 1928! There is also the traditional barber shop of Timoleon, which still preserves its picturesque old tools and the famous iron armchair, heavy, weightless and steadfast from the years, on which hundreds of Preveza residents enjoyed and still enjoy shaving and haircuts.

A few tens of meters further up, we meet in front of us the tiny and picturesque ouzo shop “Seitan Pazar”, which owes its name to the old name of the homonymous alley. At lunchtime or in the evenings, at the tables of the lilipute outside or in the beautiful inside, we have enjoyed several times ouzo or cold beer with exquisite snacks.

– Come meet someone who has known you for years, Spyros Vangelakis says to me one afternoon at the ouzo bar.

The stranger shakes my hand warmly and says:

– Thanks to you, I, the Cretan, got to know unknown aspects of Apokoronas of Chania. Since then I have been your fanatic reader.

He is the doctor Nikos Anagnostakis from Heraklion, Crete, who has been offering his services to the people of Preveza for several years and is very much loved. He reminds me of details from that great article, which, six years later, I have almost forgotten.

But this lane is mainly famous because it is the house where the poet Kostas Karyotakis lived during his stay in Preveza until the day of his tragic suicide in July 1928.

We return to Ethnikis Antistaseos. In front of us stands the imposing and notorious “Clock Tower”, erected during the Second World War. Above the clock tower there is a bell tower, built in the 1950s. Next to the tower is the beautiful Metropolitan Church of St. Charalambos from 1857 with its wooden carved iconostasis, Russian portable icons and western-style painting on the roof.

Immediately afterwards we come across the Preveza Municipal Library and the beautiful church of “Panagia tis Xenon”, where the foreigners of Preveza used to worship. Just opposite it, in a very modest building, is the Museum of the “Battle of Aktion”. It consists of a room on the second floor, the largest part of which is occupied by a huge model depicting the topography of the Amvrakikos, where in September 31 BC this historic naval battle between Octavian’s fleet and the allied fleets of Antony and Cleopatra took place. Using wood as a raw material and capturing the construction details of the ships of the period, the artist who created the model and placed the ships gives us a realistic picture of the institutions and the strength of the opponents. The outcome of the naval battle is well known. Octavian took advantage of the manoeuvrability of his smaller ships and the inexplicable flight of the

Cleopatra at a crucial point in the battle, he won a resounding victory that gave him powerful authority.

– The only thing that has not changed since those years, says the keeper of the museum, is the strong maestro that blows every noon in the area and had even then a decisive influence on the outcome of the battle.

Somewhere here the great National Resistance Road ends – or rather begins – which would take many pages to describe all the interesting points interspersed between it and its side streets. Immediately afterwards stretches the park of Aghios Andreas with the castle of the same name, which, in its large enclosed area, now hosts military installations. The height of the fortification and the degree of its preservation vary. In some places, such as the western part, it is very low and poorly maintained. In other places, however, it is high and strong. We walk around the perimeter of the castle and immediately begin to wander westward. A whole area is revealed with constant glaring contrasts, low houses and in between them an old brick and shapeless concrete buildings. Nearby is the old restaurant of the Raptis brothers, with a wide variety of Greek food, displayed in a traditional manner in the window, in full view of the customer. The restaurant has been operating for 80 (!) years, the first 50 by the father and the last 30 by his three sons. In a small square in the “Hania” location, the grocery store of “Nesseris” is still in operation since 1935. It is a large and high-ceilinged shop, inside of which there is an incredible crush of thousands of miscellaneous items, new and old. And while a little further down the fancy shop windows of the shopping centre begin, there are some unpredictable alleyways, with some of its shops bringing us back to the past. One of these is the Tzoumerka, an unlikely shop with unimaginable clutter and the oldest thing imaginable. A little further down is a massive stone building of fine architecture and next to it a large 1880’s shopping mall; close by is “Fragoklisa”, the Catholic Church of St. Andrew, recently ravaged by fire. It was built with a donation from the Emperor of Austria-Hungary Joseph. It had a large bell tower, the well-known “Frangos”, whose loud chime was identified with the break time for all the workers in the olive groves and fields of Preveza. This historic monument was demolished by an unjustifiable decision in retaliation for Italy’s invasion of our country in 1940.

A little further down from the Castle of Ag. Andreas is the square of Od. Androutsos square with the statue of the Commander-in-Chief of Roumeli. It is a wide park with trees, benches, green areas and cafes with tables, a popular recreational area for young and old, which basically marks the end of the long walk along the beach. Here, among the yachts, are moored fishing boats, which every morning sell the freshest products of the Amvrakikos Gulf to passers-by. Immediately after the commercial port and a large car park. In every part of Preveza is a comfortable and human city.

If from the park of Od. Androutsos park and head towards the city centre, we will successively meet the beautiful building of the Courthouse, the Epirus Region, the complex architectural building of the National Bank and the City Hall of the city. Immediately afterwards begins the endless row of fish taverns, cafeterias and bars, the epicenter of cosmopolitan Preveza life.

TO THE NORTH OF THE CITY AND THE COUNTRYSIDE

We temporarily leave Preveza and head with Spyros Vangelakis towards the northern exit of the city. The bastion of Vrysoula, which marked the end of the perimeter defensive ditch, the famous dapia of Ali Pasha, is still preserved. We meet in a row the Water Ski School, the Naval Club and the Old Slaughterhouses. Already in front of us stretches with its usually calm waters the bay “Vathi”, which was one of the three ports of Nikopolis. The bay penetrates deep into the land and the only winds that can slightly disturb its surface are the south winds. It is a popular fishing spot for many amateur fishermen and a safe and vast fishing haven for fishing boats. Vathi has been associated with the tragic event of Karyotakis’ suicide. At the place where he was found, a monument was erected in the mid-1960s with the words ‘He found peace with a bullet in his heart’.

We are already in the area of “Margarona” with the remains of the ancient Nikopolis. Here there were tarsana and karnakia already in the 1400s. We leave the asphalt road and move for a few kilometers on a dirt road, next to the large lagoon of Margarona.  This lagoon quickly turns into a wetland with reeds, swamps and a lot of rubbish. Making a big circle, we reach the newly built settlement of Psathaki, with a view of the bay and Preveza.

It consists of sparsely built detached houses, many of which are of questionable aesthetics. Very close by is the imposing hotel “Margarona”, which experienced days of glory in the early 80’s.With its mansion-like facilities, the hotel still maintains its old glamour and already belongs to the “AMALIA HOTELS” complex.

From the point where we are located, an elongated peninsula extends to the east, penetrating deep into the waters of Amvrakikos. It is a place completely unknown to me and Spyros of course takes over to show me around. The area is beautiful, with a wide view of the Amvrakikos, lots of greenery, orange groves and greenhouses. But the crops that mainly characterize the place are the olive groves, which are the remaining part of the once vast olive grove of Preveza. This olive grove began to be planted after 1718 at the instigation and with the support of the Venetians. It was the largest production project ever carried out in the Preveza area and the olive trees covered everything, even the slopes of the ‘Aghios Thomas’ and ‘Lascara’ mountains on the peninsula. It is impossible to determine precisely the total number of olive trees, but what is certain is that in Venetian times there were 140 000 trees, of which at least 15,000 were on the peninsula where we are. This form of cultivation was maintained until the liberation of Preveza from the Turks in 1912 and, with minor changes, until the 1950s. Then, with the development of horticultural and citrus cultivation, the uprooting of olive trees and the transport of large quantities of firewood to Patras, Athens and Ioannina began.

At one point the road descends northwards towards the chapel of the Transfiguration of the Saviour, in the interior of Amvrakikos. It ends at a small fishing shelter on the western cove of Amvrakikos. The waters are shallow but the beach is not particularly remarkable. However, this does not prevent many people from swimming. Far away to the north, on the mountains, the white, imperceptible mark of the Zalongo Monument can be seen.

We pass by the settlement of “Neochori”, with a Natural History Museum that is closed. Then we come across the nice settlement of Ag. Triada with its old and beautiful church and the much larger – but colourless – newer one. In the courtyard of the old church impressive old olive trees from the Venetian era survive, while the trees in the courtyard of the 1997 church are young palm trees, which have little to do with the tradition of the place.

– Shall we have a coffee?, Spyros suggests.

We head south, towards the seaside settlement of Agios Thomas. Fishing shelter here too, picturesque tavernas by the sea and the most beautiful view of the city of Preveza. Flat, of course, as flat as the town is, it is no different from a line of buildings, just jutting out over the sea, without any hint of amphitheatre or depth. Opposite us, very close to the south-west, stretches the flat area of Aktion, while in the distance the mountainous mass of Lefkada dominates the horizon, and further to the east still the Akarnanian mountains.

Our faces are caressed by a cool wind that stirs the waters in front of us, while a few hours ago, in the interior of Amvrakikos, there was a calm. Agios Thomas is a nice place, ideal for fishing and evening reminiscence by the sea.

After this nice break we continue our tour always in the direction of the top of the peninsula. A path leads us to the old and picturesque chapel of Aghios Apostolos, which time has marked it with several damages, both externally and internally. The wider area is an amazing flat area of several acres, stretching right over the waters of Amvrakikos.

The view, of course, to the whole vast expanse of the Amvrakikos and the surrounding mountains we know from the old days, is unobstructed. What makes the area unique, however, is the exquisite natural beauty of the forest of many ancient oaks and olive trees. It is an incredible concentration and blending of all these monumental trees, covering the ground with shade unaffected by the sun’s rays.

– On May Day there is a big festival here, says Spyros.

Unfortunately, the place is not lacking in garbage, “traces of civilization” typical of the “New Greeks”.

The beautiful journey continues towards the end of the peninsula. We pass in front of the picturesque circular lagoon “Skafidaki”, while a little further down there is a large fish farm. A dirt road of about 700 meters leads us to the end of the peninsula. It is a rugged and rocky coast, which hosts the makeshift facilities of the Preveza Fishing Cooperative. With a roof made of asbestos laminate, utensils for coffee and food, a small table, a few chairs and two or three mattresses for beds, the facilities exude a primeval picturesqueness. The whole of the W and SW side of the wall consists of solid limestone rock, while the N and A sections are wide open to the embrace of the Amvrakikos and the mountain peaks opposite.

It is a sense of freedom and independence indescribable.

Thirty meters in front of the coast is the famous “dalliani”, which nets all the fish that have the misfortune to penetrate, especially head fish, bream, bream, murmurs and gorgonians. An observatory made of thick wood is built alongside the premises at a height of at least eight metres above sea level. On top of it, facing the sea, an observer sits motionless, looking out to sea. He stands in this position, alternating shifts every hour from sunrise to sunset.

– What exactly is his job?, I ask Apostolos Koretsi, a nice man, who is the President of the Cooperative and has been working with the sea for 44 years.

– If we catch a few fish, you’ll see for yourself, he replies.

Time passes, the waters around the dalliance remain unperturbed. So does the observer above our heads. Spyros and I begin to look impatient, exchanging looks of frustration. Instead, the fishermen are drinking their coffee, smoking and talking calmly. We look at our watches, it’s well past noon. Spyros places his motorbike in the bag, we get up and prepare to say goodbye to them. At that moment a mechanical noise is heard from above. It is the observer, who, having apparently seen fish entering the dalliance, has activated the mechanism for raising the net. This net, which is fixed and upright on the seaward side, forms a right angle, a “C”. Five fishermen jump upright as if automatically from their positions and in a few seconds are inside the two “priories” (the characteristic boats). Together they all row out to sea, lifting the other free ends of the nets. The whole process takes 7-8 minutes. Immediately afterwards, the boats return with their prey of more than 10 kilos. The vast majority of them are head fish, some of which are close to a kilo. A fisherman, Panagiotis, shows me the different species and explains their names.

Except for the ‘snouts’, all the other names are unknown to me: ‘oysters’, ‘gasteria’, ‘blackfish’ and ‘congeries’. The female egg-laying fish are the “baffles”, from which the egg-laying fish come out.

– And how do we distinguish between the different species?, I ask the fisherman.

– The differences between them are subtle, only a trained eye can tell.

Before we say goodbye I ask the President and the fishermen if they are satisfied with their work.

– Except for the stress of survival, the beauty and freedom of this life are unmatched, the President replies, and everyone seems to agree with him.

I take a look at the peaceful, open landscape of Amvrakikos. He is not wrong…

The long but eventful day is coming to an end. And while it would make sense to seek a quiet place to relax, we instead head for the riot of ouzo bars. There is so much charm in this place that it is hard to resist. Just as it is hard to avoid the temptation to stop for a midnight drink at the beach bars.

FROM ANCIENT NICOPOLIS AND WEST COAST

The effects of the Battle of Actium were not confined to the era of Octavian’s omnipotence.

They extended over the centuries and are still visible today in the form of Ancient Nicopolis. It is the famous city created by Octavian at the neck of the peninsula of Preveza to commemorate his victory.

Whenever I visit Preveza from Arta’s side, I am always impressed by the size and grandeur of the wall and other buildings that survive along the roadside, a few kilometres before the city. Built in a strategic position between the Amvrakikos and the Ionian Sea, the city experienced great growth and prosperity during both the Roman and Byzantine periods. It had its own mint and was visited by important personalities of the time such as the Apostle Paul and the Stoic philosopher Epictetus.

We will not go into further detail in this article, since Ancient Nicopolis deserves an exclusive tribute. We will only mention the most important monuments that have survived, such as the Monument of the Victory of Augustus, the Theatre, the Gymnasium and the Stadium, the famous Roman Aqueduct that supplied water to the city from a distance of 50 kilometres, the house of Manios Antonios, the Episcopal Palace and the Villa at the site of Ftelia. Among the Christian monuments of the 5th and 6th centuries, we mention the two most important ones, the Basilica of Alkisonos and the Basilica of Doumetios.

In conclusion, we would say that every visitor to Preveza deserves to spend a few hours for a fascinating wander around the impressive site of Ancient Nikopolis, the legendary city that bridges two great periods of history, the Roman and the Byzantine…

About three kilometres west of Nikopolis, the landscape changes dramatically. The sluggish land and the usually calm and light-coloured waters of the Amvrakikos give way to the multi-coloured surface and the deep blue vastness of the Ionian Sea. Here lies ‘Mytikas’, the westernmost tip of the peninsula of Preveza. The homonymous settlement is an outpost with an unobstructed view of the sea and has a remarkable tourist infrastructure, but no particular architectural identity. Here is also the hotel “ADONIS”, with its nice facilities and swimming pool, which offers excellent hospitality for several days.

Continuing his habit, the maestro, which remains unchanged over the centuries, overcomes the lethargy of the night in the early hours of noon and comes out alive. Sometimes his breaths are particularly strong, exceeding five to six Beaufort winds. Some of these cool afternoons we stay in the shade of our balcony and gaze at the foaming waves for a long time.

S-SE of Mytikas the coastline of the Preveza peninsula continues to the Castle of Pantokrator. Generally it is rocky, but in between there are some small but beautiful sandy beaches suitable for swimming, such as “Kalamitsi”, the “Settlement of the Masters” and “Alonaki”.

The beach that is the pride of the wider area of Preveza is the vast Monolithi beach. It starts under the northern slopes of Mytikas, initially as a creek with a small fishing shelter and an old dalliance that is not used. Immediately afterwards it takes a northwest direction and ends at “Kastrosikia”, forming a spectacular and vast arc, which is more than 6-7 km long. With deep, blue waters, blond coarse sand of excellent quality and of course with the distinction of the “Blue Flag”, Monolithi is a reference point for the region and a popular beach for thousands of bathers. It also provides easy access to the visitor, since an asphalt road crosses the coast from a distance of a few tens of meters along its entire length.

However, there are two more elements that endow Monolithi with comparative advantages over any other beach. The first is the presence of the “NIKOPOLIS CLUB”, located towards the north-western end of the vast coastline. It is a complex with a café, bar, restaurant, swimming pools, waterslides and sunbeds on the beach. The unit has been developed within an area of several acres, overgrown with eucalyptus, pine, palm, oleander and tamarisk trees.

The form of the complex is impressive and original, based on architectural elements that characterize the complex and the surviving buildings of Ancient Nicopolis. In general, NIKOPOLIS CLUB can be considered a place that provides high quality services, worthy of its enchanting environment.

The second, unique peculiarity of the Monolithi area is the “Aesthetic Forest of the Nicopolis Coast”.

It is a bushy, green paradise, a 660-acre strip of oasis, surrounding a large land part of the coast. An abundance of forest species grows on the lands of this area, creating a natural botanical garden of unparalleled beauty. Cycling along the cycle path or walking gently along the promenade paths, one can enjoy the shade and coolness provided by the abundant halepia and maritime pine, pine and cypress trees, the huge eucalyptus, acacia and oak loblolly, myrtle and cypress and so many other trees and shrubs. The value of the forest was appreciated in time by the State, which, through a decree in the early 1980s, has placed the forest under increased protection with a complete forest fire-fighting network. Two recreation areas and a total of seven fountains connected to the water supply network are at the disposal of the nature lover, who gains an unforgettable experience from his visit to the “Aesthetic Forest of the Coast of Nikopolis”.

BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE AND UNSPOILT CORNERS

With the company of Nikos Karambela and Spyros Vangelakis, we systematically complete our tour of Preveza and its wider region. These large flat areas, once covered by tens of thousands of olive trees, now host mainly citrus and fruit and vegetable crops, among which tomatoes, watermelons and melons stand out.

One morning we move with Spyros along the western coast of Amvrakikos on the outskirts of Ancient Nikopolis. At the height of the chapel of St. Nicholas, we leave the asphalt and following a dirt road, we reach in a minute the coast of Amvrakikos, a lagoon dotted with small islets and a large number of white-winged teals. Next to it is the modest establishment of the Preveza Fishing Cooperative. Kostas Votsis, a fisherman for 32 years, buys us coffee and describes realistically the situation of the bay in the past and present, the dramatic decline of fish and eel stocks, which does not allow much optimism for the future. Just as we are about to say goodbye to him, he opens the fridge and pulls out a platter of three bream.

– They are wild and fresh, he tells us, one for each of us. I’ll put it in the pan and in a little while we’ll have a nice ouzo.

He’s ready to start cleaning, but our schedule is desperately pressing us. Kostas insists, over and over again, but in the end he is disappointed.

– Never mind, another time. Whenever you have time, give me a call.

We didn’t call him and I regret it. He was a simple kind man, who happened to meet us for the first time.

From the tranquility of “ADONIS” in Mytikas we move for the remaining days to Peace Avenue, to the renovated hotel “PREVEZA CITY”. The services of the hotel are very good and its location ensures us direct and quick access to the center. From the balcony I can see the western side of the city, where modern buildings dominate the old ones. I think, this part is little known to me, so I set out with Spyros to discover it.

100 meters below the hotel, the street Chr. Kontou crosses Peace Avenue, continues west and immediately meets the street Od. Androutsos. On an old, low house on the corner, a marble sign reads: “Here is the house of Captain Androutsos 1773-1798”.

Note the triple row of original roof tiles, the small courtyard with its jasmine, orange and lemon trees. Our gaze stops at an overgrown rose tree.

– It is more than a century old, a sympathetic lady tells us, coming out of the interior at that moment.

She is Hariklia Gafa, who was born and has lived in this house for the last 60 years.

– My family has lived here for over 150 years. And of course, long before her, Odysseas Androutsos.

We are looking around the simple interior. Two large rooms all with thick, stone walls. The kitchen and the toilet, as was customary, are outside. The little house is suffocating among the apartment buildings that surround it. The only thing that might save it is its historical past.

We continue. A two-storey mansion of great dimensions rises on Polytechnic Street and further back an old house with an arched stone entrance, decorated with stone relief. The door is open. We enter and find ourselves in front of a huge courtyard with abundant trees, vegetables and a stone well.

Paul Iasonides is slightly surprised by our unexpected presence. We explain to him what we are doing and in three minutes he buys us a chippo by the well. Night falls with a cool maestro.

The next morning we continue our tour with Spyros, starting from the square at the beginning of the Avenue. Peace. This used to be the “Foros”, one of the entrances to the city that one paid to enter. We descend from the “Majirika” district towards the “Agios Lia” district. The old church has been replaced by a new one, but the date 1860 remains engraved in stone on the beautiful bell tower; a labyrinthine neighborhood with apartment buildings, few old houses and dead-end streets.

We arrive at the old church of St. Nicholas with its gold-plated iconostasis and the inscribed interior. We exit to the long street Eptanissos. We drink coffee at the small café “Agapi”, with its picturesque interiors and the courtyard with acacia trees. All the regulars are locals, no tourists arrive here. The café is an old one, started in 1935 by Evangelos Sourtzis and continues with his grandson who has the same name. The charge for both coffees is 1.5 euros. A section – now unseen – of Ali Pasha’s famous ‘dapia’ used to pass through this point.

Next in our tour is the district “Lefkaditika”, with a lot of greenery, many small houses and a lot of reconstruction. Here is the traditional carnage of Mr. Andreas Kavvadas, who came from Lefkada in 1945, when he was 13 years old.

He is crouched over a superb miniature caravanserai, completing it to a scale of 1:42, with all the construction details. Next door, a traditional 5.5 metre “priory” is in the making.

Self-taught, Mr. Andreas has been involved in traditional shipbuilding for 35 years. His biggest boat was a 17-meter trehantiri, while a few days ago, I admired in the port of Preveza his own beautiful LIBERTY-type boat, which with its slim hull exceeds 10 miles.

– And the miniatures, Mr. Andreas?

– Oh, those are my great love. Be careful though, they’re exact replicas in every detail and they all float on water.

– Do you miss Lefkada?, I beg the question.

– What can I say, after all these years it’s the only one I see in my dreams, I still haven’t managed to feel like a Prevezan.

It’s noon, we’re going back to “Foro”.

– Come for a last ouzo at the ouzo bar of “MELETIDIS”, Spyros tells me.

You can’t see it from the outside. But inside, the walls are covered with old posters, banknotes, old ship’s instruments and countless photos of famous rebels, Vamvakaris, Papaioannou, Bithikotsis and so many others. The aura of the past is strong in every corner of the shop.

– How many years has the ouzeri been in operation?

– Half a century and a half exactly, answers George Meletidis, whose surname suffix indicates his refugee origin. He cooks his own excellent appetizers and serves them with each carafe, in the order he wants, just like the people of Volida. In the time we have left, we have time to taste delicious veal tongue and sweetbreads made of veal head.

– Of all the celebrities you’ve met, which one do you remember with the most pleasure?, I’m asking Mr. George.

– Takis Karnavas, that unique folk singer, he answers without hesitation. A perfect artist and a great man.

We ask for the bill, two ouzas each with a hearty snack.

– Four euros, says Mr. George. If you’ve got it, you pay, if you don’t, go away, you’re welcome.