At four in the afternoon, I park at Agia Marina and load my backpack with the bare essentials for an overnight stay in the open air: a sleeping pad, a down sleeping bag, and a bivy sack (a sleeping bag cover, something like a minimalist tent). A little food, a bottle of water, my headlamp, and my cell phone… my link to civilization, along with my GPS, notebook, camera, radio… the only thing missing is a coffee machine!

The route starts smoothly, on a path next to a dry-stone wall, with evergreen maples on the right and left, which retain their beautiful autumn colors even in winter. There are terraces everywhere around me, I am still in agricultural territory. Down in the valley, at some point I can see the white houses of Danakos and the sea in the distance.

Soon I reach the landmark stone with the inscription ΟΡΟΣ ΔΙΟΣ ΜΗΛΩΣΙΟΥ deeply carved into it. This landmark, which marks the transition from agricultural to livestock farming territory, may have been the boundary of a sacred area in ancient times, dedicated to the worship of Zeus as the protector of sheep. Perhaps there was even an altar at the top. Could it be that inexplicable plateau I will encounter later?

A few meters higher up is the ancient spring of Lefasa, dug into the ground, with a newer addition of a drinking fountain. From here on, the path becomes steeper with well-carved turns and marble steps in places, leading to a ridge where, to my right and left, there are two enigmatic circular, cave-like structures. The one on the left has two sturdy pillars that may have supported a dome, while the one on the right is partly carved into the rock. Higher up, the ascent becomes steeper and the path winds its way between planted stones and thorny bushes. The piles of stones that mark the path add a touch of humanity to the harsh landscape. The last windswept uphill stretch is completely rocky with a few sparse dwarf shrubs. However, the constant passage of people and animals since ancient times has created a gravel path. It is also marked by small stone towers placed by hikers, like votive offerings of pilgrims of a new cult.

And there I am at the top of the hill as the sun sets and the north wind blows fiercely. The colors of the sunset are magnificent in all directions, orange to the west, pink in the other directions. And all around, islands, the gentle ridges of the sunken land that once connected the mainland to the coast of Asia Minor. It is no wonder that this sea dotted with islands favored early navigation. However, something else catches my attention at this moment: the crows that have set up a crazy game with the wind, a heavenly choreography with skillful figures. How much they must enjoy flying!

Download Anavasi mapp from Play Store or AppStore and walk safely, following the suggested routes in the app, with Anavasi maps for mobile phones. Always have the map with you!