Athena and Danae, 10 and 11 years old, put on their life jackets, take a paddle and take their places in the three-seater canoe. Then they carefully follow their instructor’s instructions: how to hold the paddle, how to move forward or backward, right or left.

– Simple, isn’t it? Do you have any questions?

The girls shake their heads that no.

– When do we start? they ask impatiently.

– Right now! Let’s go!

A small push on the gravel of the bed, the water deepens a little and the light plastic canoe arrives in the calm current of the river. A few meters behind, Anna and I follow. For the next few hours our protagonist and host will be Nestos. We, simply, will be the passengers of its flow.

It has been years since Tasos Anastasiadis of the outdoor activities “VISTONIS TRAVEL“, had invited us to a canoe descent of the famous Straits of Nestos. The invitation was very tempting. But even our procrastination did not go back. Always something “extraordinary” or “urgent” kept postponing the visit to Nestos.

– On Monday, August 5, we will go down the river with my daughter, Danae, our friend says on the phone. If you and Athena come too, the girls will have great fun.

The decision was made in a flash, no further postponement was possible.

Xanthi and Toxotis

The city of Xanthi has always been – and still is – very dear. The coexistence of Christianity and Islamism gives the city an aura of the East that – with the exception of neighbouring Komotini – is unknown in other Greek cities. However, its most important asset remains its superbly restored ‘Old Town‘ (1).

Roads paved with granite cobblestones, which remained as they were. Buildings with exceptional architectural features. Age-old trees, picturesque squares, churches and mosques. Traditional small shops with an authentic character. The preservation of the old character of Xanthi shows how a Greek city could be attractive and win the appreciation of visitors all the time.

Dusk time we arrive in Toxotis. It is the village with the famous railway station, very close to the Nestos River. In the neighbouring settlement of Galani we meet our friend Tasos with his daughter Danae. They have set up their little tent next to the sandy bank of the river, under the thick shade of alders and willows.

– Nice place you got here.

– There’s room for you too.

– Tonight our room awaits us at the ELISSO hotel.

– Excellent choice, says Tasos. But let’s have a cold beer.

Wood-lined cantina, a few hundred meters outside of Galani. In front of it is the sandy bed, created over the centuries by the silting up of Nestos. This is also the starting point of the famous path that enters the narrow river. Nice music, crowded and lively people, frozen beer “VERGINA“, the absolute protagonist in the whole region of Macedonia and Thrace.

The night goes on, beautiful and cool in the river valley.

– When do we leave?, I ask Taso.

– Fortunately, not at dawn. The train to Stavropol passes through the Archers shortly after 9.

Awakening to Nature

Decapods, mockingbirds and small birds wake us up at dawn, before the alarm clock rings. From the windows of the room, huge poplars and pine trees, beds of shrubs and flowers loom. It’s like waking up in nature. Besides, the open space surrounding the unit is so large and so natural, it doesn’t resemble a city hotel. This is one of the great privileges of the “ELISSO” hotel and in the most beautiful part of Xanthi: at the beginning of the Old Town, opposite the Polytechnic School of the University of Thrace and next to the Kosynthos River.

After a hegemonic morning we cross the cobbled streets of the Old Town and, 20 minutes later, we arrive at the railway station of Archery. The small, provincial station no longer has the life and glamour of the past. The train has ceased to be the main and -almost- exclusive means of moving people and goods in this area. However, this morning the station is reliving glorious times. Young and old, children and instructors and older people alike have been lining the tracks for a long time, waiting for the arrival of the train from Evros. The light excursion dress reveals the common purpose and destination of the passengers: it is the descent of the Nestos River from Stavroupoli to Toxotes, in a small, plastic canoe.

You can hear the characteristic muffled noise on the rails. Very quickly the familiar snout of the engine appears in the distance. One by one we board the train, the tracks become deserted. Our short journey to Stavropoli begins.

In the Wet Embrace of the River

11:40′ – This is a sense of freedom, Anna shouts. You don’t depend on machines or wind and sails. Only on the manual paddle and the perpetual, natural flow of the river.

The quietness is also amazing. The only slight noise comes from the gentle plunge of the paddle in the waters of the Nestos, shallow and slow-moving due to the great width of the river. With a length of 145 km on Greek territory (2), it is the fifth longest Greek river. The total length of the Nestos, from its source at Rila in Bulgaria to its mouth in the Thracian Sea, opposite Thassos, is 234 km (3).

– What is the length of our route? I ask Taso.

– About 25 kilometers.

– And how much time will we need?

– An average time, with several stops, is around 6 hours.

We let the water carry us away. The speed of its flow varies considerably, depending on the width of the riverbed. Each time it narrows, it creates a current, in some cases with strong ripples. Then our corrective involvement with the paddle is necessary. Without these interventions, the canoe swirls like a nutcracker, at the whims of the river. The most likely outcome is to run aground either on the bank or in a pebbled or sandy area, one of the many that are created in the bed of the Nestos.

I notice the two girls, sitting behind each other in Tassos’ canoe. I compare their initial hesitant and awkward movements with their current ones, half an hour later. The improvement is obvious, the paddles sinking more and more coordinated, disciplined and even. Every minute of floating, sometimes on the velvety and sometimes on the choppy surface of the water, is precious for the children’s familiarity, experience and confidence. The initial – justifiable – tightness and fear of the unknown are gradually eliminated. More and more, the descent of the Nestos River resembles a game, demanding of course, but of unprecedented excitement for the two children.

We, again, have our own peculiarities with Anna. Who, of course, has the exclusive task of capturing every moment of the river trip with her camera. Artistic work, then, for Anna and rowing for me. Absolute division of labour.

– I feel like an ancient “heretic”, I tell her (4). Fortunately, this modern vessel has provided to protect the waist and back of the researchers.

Indeed, the watertight hard plastic barrel, which keeps our stuff out of the water, is so well strapped behind us that our waist and back are supported with absolute efficiency. Without the barrels for so many hours, I can’t imagine what the musculoskeletal effects on these two sensitive parts of our bodies would be.

The Emotions of the “Straits”

11:40′. The open horizons with plains and fields (5) gradually give way to steep hillsides, varying in height from a few tens to a few hundred metres. Covered by impenetrable vegetation and completely inaccessible, most of the slopes end up above the waters of the river. Which now, as it is squeezed between them, has lost a considerable part, not only of its original width, but also of its serene character. Nor can our bliss be continued. Narrow passages, intervening shoals, ripple-creating rocks, logs and branches wedged in the sand, create varied sailing conditions requiring dexterous movements, constant alertness and attention. Now and then the girls’ voices can be heard, some with anxiety but most with excitement. It’s impossible to get bored in the alleys. Besides, the landscapes are constantly changing (6).

12:20′. Here’s a right turn with a narrow bed, fast current and deep water. At the exit of the turn Tasos brakes and gently touches the smooth foreshore. He signals for me to imitate him.

– This is where I used to make a stop. For a little rest and a sandwich, maybe even a daring dive.

We step on solid ground again after 1 hour and 10 minutes on the surface of the water. Above us the cool shade of alders, willows and plane trees. The shade is very desirable at this time. On the 5th of August the heat is noticeable. The girls snack on some sandwiches and start walking back and forth across the riverbed. The bottom is smooth, paved with sand and pebbles. The water, however, with its swift flow is icy cold, discouraging any thoughts of diving. But not for long. The transparency of the water, its purity, is so appealing that a few minutes later we can’t deny our first full-body plunge into the Nestos River. And the experience of trying to swim against the strong current of the river is truly unprecedented (7).

Blue Lake: A Unique Experience

13:00′. With our stop lasting much longer than originally planned, we reluctantly leave our shady acreage. At that moment, however, we could not have predicted – not even Tasos – what Nestos would have in store for us next. Which, of course, is still always wonderful, diverse and overgrown on its banks with huge alders, plane trees and willows. Our only adversity is the heat, which at this midday hour is unbearable. To protect themselves, some cows have stopped all activity and have gathered under the shade of the trees on an island in the river. Our only ally, though transient and not permanent, is a south wind, which at times cools us down with contrary, particularly strong gusts that wrinkle the surface of the water.

– When is the next shady stop? Anna asks Tasos.

– The planned one is still late. Unless we can find something nice to stop early.

At that moment Tasos must have had a very strong telepathy with Nestos. As he finishes his sentence he finds himself with his canoe on the side of a sandy islet which, starting from the smooth bank, penetrates for a few dozen yards, like a spear into the river. The phenomenon is not uncommon, as we have so far encountered numerous islets, large and small. But what we see along the inner side of the islet is unprecedented. It is a narrow tongue of water, a lilliputian fjord, formed between the tongue of sand and the smooth bank of the river. Here the flow is so calm that at first glance the water seems still.

We drag our canoes onto the friendly sandy beach, take a few steps towards the interior of the island and, suddenly, we can’t believe our eyes. The narrow, shallow and unremarkable fjord, until that moment, is widening. It unexpectedly transforms into a turquoise pond of incredible beauty. The clarity of the water, its crystal clarity, brings to mind only top Boydomatis images. In fact, if the sand of Nestos was lucky enough to be white, then the colour of the water would be the ultimate turquoise. We all burst into exclamations of admiration.

– I’ve been going down the Nestos for so many years, it’s the first time I’ve come across something like this, whispers Tasos. And the mouth of the fjord was so discreet and narrow that we almost passed it without seeing it.

With some ten meters long, around five meters wide and more than one and a half deep, the pond is a magical, unsurpassed creation of the nature of Nestos, which no artificial pool can match. We don’t need more than a few seconds to realize what a unique privilege we have before us. Without the slightest hesitation, young and old alike, we dive into the divine waters, gleefully laughing. This one, unlike the previous sluggish and icy ones, is pleasantly cool.

Three canoes appear. Paddling furiously, their passengers scrape by the little island, raise their hands and wave. Then, carried away by the current, they speed away, unaware of the paradise they are passing.

– These were the forerunners, Tasos says. Any minute now, the many will arrive.

Before five minutes have passed, many loud voices can be heard. Canoes begin to appear on the bend, we count one, two, three… nine! It’s crowded, the Nestos is like a Venetian canal. The few who notice us wave. The rest are rowing furiously, their attention focused only on the oars and the water. Some instructors, acquaintances of Tasos, stare at the spot where we are parked with wonder.

– Come down below, to the vertical rocks, they call to Tasos. There we’ll have our big break.

For a few more minutes we live our precious privacy. The girls cannot come to terms with the idea of leaving the blue pond of Nestos, their own pond. With great disappointment and without the slightest pleasure they take up the oars again.

Nestos: A Wonderful River

15:30′. After a stop of almost 45 minutes we leave the serenity. We resume the action on the riverbed. New landscapes, new images are constantly being revealed, but it is clear that everyone’s soul has remained in the blue, crystal clear waters. Almost half an hour later, we arrive at a characteristic point of Nestos with bare greyish rocks, which from a height of at least 40 meters, end up vertically in the water. Just opposite, the bank is flat, wide and sandy, like a sea sand beach. This is where all the canoes have been towed. Cold water, sandwiches, refreshments for the little ones, coffees for the grown-ups, faces cheerful, flushed from the sun. The kids are making a terrible racket, they are excited about the river experience. We drink some coffee, cold water and in ten minutes we’re off.

Apnea and quiet flow. The heat at 4 in the afternoon is strong (8). Every now and then we pour cool water over ourselves. Not the most exciting conditions of the trip so far. But here we are, gradually something seems to be changing. The river bed is narrowing, the current is getting stronger, the banks are becoming steeper and the river is getting more and more winding.

– The famous “meanderings” of Nestos are beginning, says Tasos. A little caution is needed here.

For the next almost an hour we forget about being calm. The Nestos has come alive for good, with successive narrow passages, treacherous gorges and eddies, streams and half-submerged branches. With his experience Tasos avoids the mishaps, while the girls carry out his orders with admirable alacrity. A beautiful landscape suddenly distracts my attention. Just a few carefree moments are enough. The canoe is swept away by the strong current and, before I can correct its course, it is stranded on the rough pebbles of a shoal. Which, stubbornly, keeps us immobilized, despite my efforts with the paddle. We are forced to get out and drag the canoe by hand. Tasos, meanwhile, has moved quite far away. To maintain eye contact, I paddle with all my might for several minutes. Suddenly our friend, in a left turn, leaves the flow of the river and veers to the right. Then he masterfully steers his canoe into the narrow passage between two shoals. I follow him, and in a minute we are at a standstill in calm waters. My watch reads 17:10′ on the dot.

– Before we discovered the pond earlier, these were my blue waters, Tasos says. They don’t compare to the lake, of course, but they’re not bad either.

The landscape is beautiful and mostly shady and incredibly cool. From the shallow bottom lanceolate aquatic plants reach the surface. The branches of the alders touch the water. Some other, thinner branches are so intricately twisted together that they have created a peculiar, wooden “Gordian knot“.

– Is anyone thirsty? asks Tasos.

– Yes, the girls answer in one voice.

We are approaching the steep, wooded bank. At one point a small gully forms. There’s a little stream there.

– This is one of the many unseen magical wells of Nestos, our friend says. This is where I always come to quench my thirst.

We drink and fill our canteens with the crystal clear water. Then we leave the coolness and go back to the warmth of the river. We pass one last long meander and then the riverbed straightens, widens, like an avenue. The long trip to the Straits is coming to an end (9).

17:40′. Exactly six and a half hours after our departure we arrive at the finish point of the river route (10). Very close by is the starting point of the overland route, the path to the Straits. At that moment the train whistle sounds. It is the formalisation of the end of the journey.

During the cool evening hours we sacrifice the comforts of our hotel to set up our own tent next to Tasos’s. We gather dry alder branches, light a fire, add charcoal and grill the local meats. We have a good chippo. Frozen “VERGINA” is supplied by the canteen. It’s a nice night on the sandy beach, a few meters from the river bank. A river with unexpected charm. It reveals itself only to those who have the patience and courage to live six hours in its wet embrace.

References

1. An extensive article on the City of Xanthi is hosted in Elliniko Panorama, issue 54, Nov-Dec 2006.
2. N. Nezis, “THE GREEK BOUNDS”, VOLUME 1, p. 43. According to I. Nezis’ data, the five longest rivers on Greek territory are, in order, the Aliakmon with 325 km, the Acheloos with 245, the Pinios with 200, the Evros with 192 and the Nestos with 145 km.
3. Encyclopedia “PAPYROS-LAROUSSE-BRITANNICA”, volume 38, p. 619. According to the encyclopedia, 130 of the total 234 km of the Nestos river are in Greek territory.
4. A rower coming from ancient Eretria in Evia.
5. In addition to corn, there are also tobacco plantations. Tobacco cultivation began in the region in the 17th and 18th centuries. Famous for its quality was the variety ‘pasmas‘ which conquered the markets of Constantinople, Egypt and Europe. In the 1930s and 1940s, tobacco production in the region reached its peak.
6. The valley of Nestos, with its geographical and strategic importance, was a centre of movement and settlement of populations from the prehistoric period until modern times. In historical times it was the main road connecting Macedonia with Thrace, the west with the east. Even after the construction of the famous Egnatia, which, of course, passed much further south, it remained the safest road for the movement of people, troops and goods (D. Triantafyllos, ‘PARANESTY REGION’, 2004).
7. Nestos or Nessos was, according to mythology, the son of Oceanus and Thetis and had the same name as the centaur Nessos. Herodotus mentions that Acheloos to the west and Nestos to the east were the boundaries of the zone where lions lived in the 5th century BC. In the time of the Macedonian kings, the river Nestos was the boundary between Macedonia and Thrace (D. Triantafyllos, op. cit.)
8. The climate of the region is a combination of two climatic types, the oceanic-peaceful-Mediterranean climate, with soft winters-caloric and rainfall throughout the year and the continental-eastern European-Micrassian climate with cold winters, frosts and dry summers (D. Triantafyllos op. p.)
9. The Straits of Nestos are an indivisible and unique entity of great ecological importance. In 1977 they were declared an “Aesthetic Forest” with an area of 23,800 acres. In 1987 the area was included in the “Special Protection Areas” of the then European Community, with the aim of preserving wild birds. The area is home to over 200 species of birds, some of which are rare, such as eight of the ten species of oak warblers found in Europe, the grouse and the collared pheasant, as well as a wide variety of raptors. The Straits remain the only area in the country where the chestnut grouse still nests.

In 1992, an area of 43,900 hectares, east of the river, was designated a protection zone of the Aesthetic Forest, with a ban on the exploration and exploitation of quarries and mines. Since 1994, the Straits have been included in the ‘Special Protection Zone‘ as an important area for birdlife.

From the Archers, the Nestos, with a smooth course of almost 30 kilometres, reaches the forest of Koja Orman, which used to be the most beautiful water-loving forest in Europe. There, it flows into the Thracian Sea, opposite Thassos.

Thanks to

We owe warm thanks to our good friend Tasos Anastasiadis of the company VISTONIS TRAVEL, who motivated us to go down the Straits of Nestos with him and enjoy this exciting and unprecedented experience We would also like to thank the similar company RIVERLAND for all its services. Finally, we would like to thank the management and staff of the wonderful hotel ELISSO, for the excellent hospitality in every respect.

Bibliography

Diamantis Triantafyllos, “PARANESTY AREA”, PERIΦ. ANAT. MAK-THRAKI, 2004