In the summer of 2010 a photo album arrived at our offices. The sender and creator was Manolis Santorinaios. The theme of the album was his homeland, Naxos. However, it was given to him in a unique way.

Manolis thought to divide Naxos into 37 (!) different thematic units. And then to select, from each section, the top 7 themes, the “TOP 7” of Naxos: beaches, churches, threshing floors, villages, etc. etc. He also invested each section with eloquent verses of some poets.

The task was not easy. It cost him countless hours and days of searching, endless kilometres and walks on mountain ridges, villages, beaches and paths. But his reward was just as great. The more he searched, the more he discovered his homeland.

It was an invitation, Manolis’ album: to get to know a little of his Naxos, having him as our guide. Albeit belatedly, we responded to his call. We did not regret it. With him we wandered around a Naxos that any traveller would be happy to know.

FIRST HOURS IN NAXOS

At midnight our boat arrives in Naxos. A hard day, we have been on the roads since morning. At the hotel “NAXOS RESORT”, however, we feel great, we are welcomed like old friends. Even more touching is the welcome of Manolis.

-Tonight rest well, because from tomorrow the running starts.

Before we surrender to the “embrace of Morpheus”, we step out for a while on the balcony of our room. Trees, flowers and a lovely pool. A full moon is reflected in the clear water. The atmosphere is fragrant with the scent of flowers and the night is soothed by the ethereal calls of nightingales.

LOWER, MIDDLE AND UPPER POTAMIA

Blond sandy beach and tamarisks, shallow bottom and crystal clear waters. There is the stunning bay of Agios Georgios, in front of the hotel. The channel that separates Naxos from the west coast of Paros is just offshore. All the next few days we will be gazing out over the sea horizon and islands, large and small.

Nikos Santorinaios, from “NAXOS ESCAPE” car rentals, gives us the key of a brand new Hyundai i10.

– It’s easy to drive, economical and reliable, says Nikos. I hope you enjoy your tours on the island.

In the following days the Hyundai, for almost 600 kilometres, stood, a companion, lean and reliable on every route.

We start our maiden tour with Manolis, heading SE of Chora, towards Galanados. Immediately after the settlement we meet the “Tower of Belonia”, probably of the 16th century. The monument is perfectly preserved by foreigners. The double chapel of the tower is noteworthy, half Orthodox and half Catholic, while a few meters further down, a part of ancient masonry with carved boulders is preserved.

Two kilometres later, at the “Mitropoulou” location, we find a marked path and a wooden sign with all the details of the route, which passes successively through the settlements of Kato, Messi and Ano Potamia.

11:45′ From an altitude of 205m. we descend slightly in a northeastern direction. Dense vegetation, flowers, olive trees and terraces. Every now and then Manolis bends down, cuts some herb or grass and mentions properties and therapeutic characteristics. An old, winding cobblestone path with a wall begins.

12:05′ We arrive in front of the church of Agios Mamas. Unfortunately, the coat of arms on the lintel of the courtyard door has been removed by some “collectors”. The church of Agios Mamas or “Theoskepasti Potamia”, holds a special place in Manolis’ album. Not without reason. Apart from its stunning residential ensemble, the monument has a rare architectural peculiarity. According to the archaeologist Georgios Mastoropoulos (1), it belongs to the “cross-shaped registered temples with a dome”. In fact, of the 13 such temples of Naxos, Agios Mamas is one of the five that belong to the rare archaic form of the so-called ‘variable-type‘ temples in Greece. In these cases the dome is not supported, as later, on square pillars or columns but on walls or pile walls.

The church was probably built during the second half of the 10th century, probably in the place of an early Christian church. The eastern arch and a large part of the apse have collapsed, while the painted decoration has been almost entirely destroyed. However, even with such significant damage, St. Mamas is an incredibly charming monument. 150 metres further on stands the ruined metropolitan mansion of the Latin Archbishops of Naxos, built by Antony Justinian in 1707.

We head towards Kato Potamia, next to a ravine bed, orchards, lemon and oak trees, greenery everywhere. Naxos in no way reminds one of the dry lands of the Cycladic islands. A heavy shower breaks out. We find shelter under a multi-branched carob tree, “kountouridia” Manolis calls it.

13:10′ We arrive at the small square of the traditional settlement of Kato Potamia. Pelorian eucalyptus trees and the church of “Theoskepasti”, built in 1871.

We continue east, outside the village, towards the Tower of Kokkos and Mesi Potamia: incredible vegetation, beautiful orchards, a magnificent pine tree, an old olive grove, a path in a plane-covered ravine, the chapel of Prophet Elias and the tower of the historic Magakis family. We splash in the waters of the ravine, which overflow from everywhere, wondering if we are really in the Cyclades. Suddenly, out of the jungle, the fortress-like three-storey tower of Kokkos emerges.

A stone-built, dome-shaped 10-meter long gallery leads us inside. The marble coat of arms of the family dominates the lintel, while a carved inscription bears the date AHS’ (1686). The inscriptions with old family mottos such as: ‘The memory of death is useful to life’, ‘A good woman’s good man is blessed and the number of his days is double’.

According to N. Kefalliniadis (2), of the numerous towers of the Frankish landowners of Potamia, eight survive today. After his domination of Naxos in 1207, Marcos Sanoudos, wanting to reward his officials, divided the island into fiefdoms (3). At that time, some built mansions around the palace of Sanoudos, while others built towers in the most beautiful and prosperous parts of the island.

We are already in Middle (Mesi) Potamia. Beautiful houses, paved street, church of Agios Georgios. In the district “Platanaki” the picturesque picture of the troughs, where the women of the village used to wash their clothes. Above, the reconstructed watermill of Grillakis, one of the 9 that the ravine once had. Mrs. Katerina gives us a tour of the mill’s facilities. By the path, number “6”, we quickly reach Ano Potamia.

Nice houses, one from 1878, and at 15:00 we arrive at the tavern “Pigi”, named after the stone spring with plenty of water. In the courtyard of the tavern, we treat ourselves to a relaxing break and a light meal with delicious snacks. In almost 4 hours, with a total distance of 5.5km, we have seen a variety of very exciting images.

With TAXI we return from Ano Potamia to the car. We head SE, pass Kato Sagri and, in a detour of the road, we see the Tower of Boyatzoglou (old Paleologos) and next to it the renovated church of Panagia Orphani (4). About one and a half kilometres later we come across the Monastery of the Holy Cross, built into the massive Bazaios Tower (5). Next to it is the chapel of Agios Nikitas, unique in Naxos (6).

-If you are not tired, I suggest a reconnaissance walk a little further north, says Manolis.

We head NE, admire the steep hill with the ruins of the Ano Castle and the rocky formations, cross the traditional Chalki and follow a spectacular route to Moni and then to Kinidaros. As we start to descend, we face the most impressive white marble quarry on the island.

Turning left we quickly reach “Flerio”. Here lie unfinished and abandoned two naked male statues, two supernaturally sized kouroi, from the early 6th century BC. They are unmistakable witnesses to the art, daring and rich activity of the Naxian marble workers (7).

We leave the car, climb a few steps and discover the first kuros in the shade of an old oak tree. Just below, in a paradise garden with lemon trees, old olive trees and many other trees, is the café “Paradisos” of Mrs. Eudocia. Next to the pool with the goldfish she roasts us a coffee with water from the well.

We are already starting on the second kurro. Steps lead us first to a small ancient quarry. Continuing on a stony, paved and dirt path, we reach in almost 10 minutes a small plateau, which from an altitude of 270 meters dominates the plain and the mountains opposite. Here rests, over the centuries, the second kuros which, like the first, has never had the good fortune to escape from its place of construction. The overall feeling, with the statue, the flowers and the absolute serenity of the mountain, is overwhelming. The surrounding area is equally thoughtful, with information signage and resting benches for visitors.

Between Melanes and Mesi Potamia, the Tower-Anaktoros of Kalamitsion is preserved. It was built by Father Σωζέ one of the most important Jesuit abbots, at the end of the 17th century as a Jesuit resort. The complex, although ruined, is still magnificent, with its large hall and fireplaces, thick walls, vaulted ceilings and arches.

As darkness falls, we return to the mainland. We relax in our hotel with a white ice-cold wine by the pool.

– A first account shows notes of tens of pages, I tell Manolis. Anna, again, has several hundred photographs in her archive. Is this material already enough for a full-length article?

– We are still in the first day, says our friend. You can’t imagine what we have to see next.

EXOTIC BEACHES

Early in the morning the stillness of the sea in the Naxos-Paros channel rivals the absolute stillness of the pool.

– Today is a day for beaches, says Manolis. We will see their most beautiful face.

After the airstrip – which is to be extended to accommodate larger aircraft – we continue west to the settlement of Agios Prokopios, on the peninsula of Stelida. The road crosses, literally at altitude 0, a narrow tongue of land between the sea and the “Salt Flats”. It is an extensive seasonal lake, a popular wetland for several birds, reed buntings, phalaropes, palm warblers, herons.

As we stop the car, a large ash borer walks away in a huff. The same is not the case with the various small cichlids and a gorgeous white-crowned kingfisher, which continues to pace undaunted, foraging for food in the shallow waters.

The islets “Manto” and “Kleftonisia”, narrow channels between them, reflections of the Strait, spectacular rocks and wide sandy beaches. The place is ideal for swimming, for a special holiday. It is no coincidence that it has a large tourist infrastructure.

After the souvereign promontory of Agios Prokopios we continue along the extensive beach of Agia Anna. Very close to the country, Agia Anna is a very popular destination that attracts Greeks and foreigners in large numbers. The development of the area is very justified with numerous catering and accommodation businesses all along the coast. A simple and friendly coast, with shallow and sandy coves, safe even for small children. At the edge of the small cove, the chapel of Agios Nikolaos stands out.

We make a stop over the bay. Fishing boats, recreational boats, shallow, clear and attractive waters. Made even more beautiful by the rounded – by the ancient action of the waves – rocks of the coast. Extensive dunes with large cedars give the place an exotic beach image. The dunes are crossed by a well-built wooden walkway. At the end of it, a path begins, which immediately leads to the small cove with the chapel of St. Nicholas. The place exudes an incomparable charm. It is no coincidence that so many couples come to celebrate their wedding in the chapel of St. Nicholas. And of course, to admire with their guests the famous rock – “Shark’s Head”, among the other rocks of the coast.

Immediately after the cape of Agios Nikolaos begins “Plaka”, a vast beach with a shallow and sandy seabed, tavernas, cafes, houses and accommodation all along the coast.

At some point we head for the mainland. After the sea horizon and the blond sandy beaches we find ourselves in a rural landscape, surrounded by vast fields of potato fields with the famous potato of Naxos (8).

But the place “produces” other attractions besides potatoes. It is the chapel of St. Matthew, with embedded ancient architectural elements and a chimney! There are also two old windmills and the isotonically built “Palios Pyrgos of Plaka” (Old Tower of Plaka), a very special ruin. Equally impressive is the hilly background, dotted with these reddish-brown rocks, reminiscent of Volakas in Tinos. We reach Orkos by a passable dirt road. A little further down, the beach of Vigla begins, with shallow, blue, wonderful waters. Lilliputian cove, rounded rocks, islet with the small islet of the Virgin celebrating the Ascension. Other peculiarities of the place are the huge cedars, the small pier, the well-kept lodgings, the amaranth flowers that adorn the coast.

This part of the eastern coast of Naxos is a true swimming and holiday paradise, which rightly enchants every summer the Greek and international tourist audience.

We temporarily abandon the coastline and turn left towards the imposing four-storey tower of Oskelos and the chapel of Agios Georgios, a 13th century church with a vaulted roof and several frescoes. Then we come across a narrow pond next to the beach, the liliputian chapel of Agia Paraskevi with worn frescoes and, of course, always a beautiful sandy beach.

The road leads us very quickly to Cape Kouroupia. Here on the edge is the chapel of Agios Georgios, as well as incredibly beautiful, deserted coves, where the sandy beaches alternate with stones. Dunes, extensive cedar forest (9), Alyko, Psili Ammos and Agiassos Beach. Here is also the wetland of Agiassos, with bogs and reeds. Our tour of the eastern coastline comes to an end.

Monastery of Christ the Fotodotis

We cross the settlement of Agiassos and head north towards the Monastery of Fotodotis. We leave the hill with the impressive “Apaliros Castle” on our right and just off the road, we take the path to the “Adissaros Fountain”. A roughly built cobbled path takes us in three minutes to a plane-covered gully. Here is the built fountain with the nice and cool water. In the ravine, however, there is also a rare monument to nature. It is an olive tree of peloric dimensions, whose trunk, over the centuries, has been fragmented in many places.

– I have heard people say that this is the oldest olive tree in Greece, Manolis says.

Observing the supernaturally large trunk, we have no particular objections to raise. Returning from the fountain we notice the old chapel of Agios Ioannis the Theologian, stone-built, tiled and with a central trullaki. It has embedded marble architectural elements from earlier times of its construction (10).

We reach Chalki, turn right and cross the impressive “Filoti”. We take the ascents to the spectacular neck of Agia Marina. Here is the starting point of the most popular route to the top of Zas. A dirt road leads us, after almost one and a half kilometres, to an elevated point above the monastery. From an altitude of 620 meters, we admire the monument a little lower, which stands like a strong bastion against the background of the Aegean Sea. In the foreground, the islands “Makares” and further back Donousa can be seen.

With a steep descent we arrive in front of the mighty tower, whose height must be close to 20 meters. C. (“Naxos, the other world”) “The Catholic Church was originally a three-aisled, colonnaded, early Christian basilica with a narthex from which the perimeter walls are preserved…The three-pillared eastern side of the narthex had a monumental form with the placement, in contact with the wall, of two columns supporting three arches. Since the mid-16th century, Fotodotis has been a metochi of the Monastery of the Great Theologian of Patmos. “

We end our afternoon tour two km below Agia Marina, in the small settlement of Danakos. It is a small, liliputian square at an altitude of 430 meters. Café-tavern “Stefanos” and across the road the verdant ridges of Troulos. With about 70 steps we descend to the dirt road of Zoodochos Pigi. There is indeed a spring here, pouring out of the hidden depths of a rock, like a small river with a quiet flow. Crystal clear, stunning, ice-cold water. Above us stretches the huge umbrella of a godlike plane tree, already covering the little square with darkness. It’s time for a late-night chippo at Stefanos’, with some delicious snacks.

CHALKI – TRADITION & THE BYZANTINE COURT

Good Friday dawns with sunny skies, contrary to the tradition that wants it to be cloudy and gloomy.

– The conditions are ideal for today’s custom at Panagia Drosiani, says Manolis.

We take the ascents to Chalki, cross the village and head north towards the settlement of “Moni“. Two kilometers before the village, hundreds of people have flocked for the custom of Drosiani. The chapel is built over the asphalt, on a small plateau with a stunning view and is considered perhaps one of the most important ecclesiastical monuments of Naxos.

The original building dates back to the early Christian era, from the 5th to the 7th century. It was originally a one-room church with a triple-nave dome. Later, three Byzantine one-room chapels were added, with the entrance from the main church. However, what makes Panagia Drosiani special is its pre-iconoclastic frescoes, which were discovered in 1965. They are the most important in Naxos and are considered among the oldest in the Balkans. Unique is the depiction on the dome of two parapets with the figure of Christ as an elder with a beard and a young man with a small beard. The Virgin Mary, who is titled St. Mary, is also considered important, as in the early Christian years. In Panagia Drosiani, dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, 19 frescoed parts survive, as well as dedicatory inscriptions, probably of the 6th century.

In the courtyard of the church there is a pleasant crowd, but inside it is suffocating. Thus we have not the slightest opportunity to photograph any of the frescoes that adorn the church. The custom, however, is still going strong. We taste the excellent raisin bread (locally called “poulos”), along with dried figs, walnuts, raisins and raki. The atmosphere is wonderful, happy faces everywhere, handshakes and wishes for the approaching Easter. We return to Chalki.

Here we are in the heart of the plain of “Drimalia”, also known as “Tragaia”. The area is surrounded by hills and mountains and is covered for the most part by a historic, centuries-old olive grove. It is from this olive grove that the name ‘Drymalia’ is traditionally derived, as a corruption of ‘Dromos Elaiwn’ (11). With Chalki approximately in the centre, the area comprises 12 settlements: Filoti, Chalki, Damarionas, Damalas, Kerami, Chikalario, Moni, Kaloxilos, Akademi Monoitsia or Pachi, Chimarra, Vourvouria. According to Anomeritis, Tragaia is a Byzantine “Mystra”, unique in Naxos and the Aegean. There are 30 Byzantine churches in the area, which cover the entire period of the Byzantine period from the 9th to the 11th century.

It is impossible, of course, to include – even briefly – all this monumental Byzantine heritage. We will therefore limit ourselves, in the context of this article, to mention four of the most characteristic monuments. Earlier, however, we begin to get to know Chalki. It is a beautiful, almost flat village, with well-kept cobbled streets, tiny squares and many beautiful shops: a picturesque tavern on the square, a jam workshop, an old grocery store, a pottery workshop, handmade textiles, a bookshop. On a central paved street dominates the distillery of Kitros Vallindra, a traditional business that can be visited and has been operating since 1896 (12).

Right next to him we make the sweetest pose. It’s “Sweet Life”, Christina’s sweet shop, with its famous-among many other sweets-orange pie. Many beautiful neoclassical mansions we meet during our walk in Chalki. On their floors, balconies with wrought iron balustrades and marble fourousia protrude. One stone-built two-storey building stands out with its 16 carved marble fours, which did not have time – for unknown reasons – to support any balcony. On an old door we are attracted by a stubby and rounded lock with a distinctive shape.

The most important attraction of the village is the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary, the famous “Protothroni”. In the glorious church with its decorated epitaph, we are welcomed by Papa-Vassilis, a deep knowledge of its history and a brilliant storyteller.

Protothroni has a peculiarity: it has been in continuous operation since 1052, but it must have been built in the early Christian years, as a three-aisled wooden-roofed basilica. In the Middle Byzantine period it was renovated and converted into a transitional cruciform church with a dome. In the Post-Byzantine period, windows were added and in 1713 the Cycladic bell tower was added, while the original columns were later built into thick walls, apparently to support the dome. The dimensions of the church are large: 10.70 X 21.70. There are three successive layers with 23 excellent frescoes. In the painted decoration of the church, which was done in five different periods, the “iconoclastic layer” is of particular interest. This is a series of crosses covering the Apostles, which existed before the iconoclastic period (13).

The most important and perfectly preserved fresco is the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary on the wall of the sanctuary. It is an excellent composition with a large angel wearing Greek clothing and a young and beautiful Virgin Mary with excellent colour compositions, probably dating from the 12th century.

Near Protothroni, next to the main road, the Barozzi Tower, built in the 17th century and excellently restored by the Grassia family. The marble coat of arms on the lintel of the courtyard door is also beautiful.

-Come now and let me show you the most beautiful church of the island, in my opinion, says Manolis, the Byzantine church of the Holy Apostles (14).

From Chalki we head to the abandoned Metochi. We leave the road and in two minutes we meet the monument in a century-old olive grove. C. Anomeritis, that it is one of the most peculiar and important temples from an architectural point of view. It dates back to the 10th-11th century and is cross-shaped with a dome, with two chapels. It is the only church with a two-storey building, probably a dedicatory nave. Its characteristic features are the ceramic decorations and the clay cross-shaped phialostomia. The architect must have been an experienced craftsman. The dimensions of the temple are 12.10 x 5.69 m and it is one of the few that have been built with collected stones. It has three illuminated windows in the arches and a low entrance door. Its roofs are covered with slabs and the dome with tiles. Remains of 12th or 13th century frescoes have been uncovered under the limestones.

At the northern exit of Chalkios we meet path “4”, which in a few minutes leads us to the olive grove and to Agios Georgios Diasoritis. It is a beautiful one-room church, perfectly preserved, dating back to the 10th-11th century. Its type is cruciform, inscribed with a dome, with internal dimensions of 5.40 x 8.50 metres. It is inscribed with 115 representations painted from the 11th to the 13th century. The most important fresco is of St. George in the arch of the sanctuary. The cylindrical dome dominates the centre of the church with the gabled tiled roofs around it. There is only one doorway to the west and few windows to give little light to the interior.

After Chalki we head towards the monastery, cross the small settlement of Kaloxilos and meet on the left, off the road, Panagia Damniotissa. It is a very beautiful, cruciform church with a dome of the 9th-11th century. As we observe the monument, a local man, Yannis Lampadakis, appears.

– Do you have the keys? Manolis asks him.

– Yes, I always have them with me in case I find someone, like you, who wants to worship.

Inside the church we can see the frescoes of the 12th to 13th century. Of particular semiotics are, according to G. Anomeritis, the fresco of St. Nicholas, to whom the Virgin Mary offers the scapular and Christ the Gospel.

The day’s tours are completed with a visit to the picturesque settlement of Melanos, built amphitheatrically at an altitude of 150 meters. At the exit of the village, a bunch of children have gathered large piles of cactus nuts and reeds. Later they will set them on fire to observe the custom of Good Friday.

AT THE TOP OF “ZAS” – 1,004m

From the very first days, Zas has captivated our eyes from various angles. Steep, rocky and severe is the cone, which with an altitude of 1,004 meters dominates the highest point of the spine of Naxos. It is the long, almost continuous and unbroken ridge, which extends from N to S and divides the island into two independent parts: the eastern and the western.

Late into the night of Good Friday the sky shines with stars and moon. Early in the morning of Easter Saturday, heavy rain breaks out. A little later the day dawns wet, cloudy and dark, with a strong wind. We are seriously concerned about the conditions we will encounter on our way to the summit. The decision, however, has been made: this morning is dedicated to the Naxi Jupiter, Zas.

For our ascent we choose the route B, starting from Agia Marina. The approach A, through the gorge with the cave of Zas, is shorter in distance but more time-consuming and much steeper.

10:30′. We depart from Agia Marina, at an altitude of 600 meters. It’s blowing hard. Initially uphill and on a path between pine and maple trees. Further up, a cobbled path thickly built and an ancient inscription carved into the rock.

10:50′. We reach the underground spring Lefgasa, at an altitude of 680 meters. It begins an uphill, winding cobbled path with large stone steps. Gradually, low vegetation dominates, with astilbe, thyme and sea urchins.

11:05. We reach an altitude of 770 meters. Two underground circular buildings with elaborate stonework appear. They may be water tanks. The trail runs parallel to a long stone wall with solid dry stone. Lower down to the east, there are extensive pastures, with dry stone walls projecting like long spines. The silhouettes of goats move among them, with the sound of bells.

The wind is getting stronger, at the same time the slope of the hill is increasing. The terrain also changes, becoming rough and stony, but the path is still visible. Wildflowers are few and far between, both in variety and number. The vast majority are yellow.

11:30′. We exit on an extended ridge, at an altitude of about 850 meters. A fierce maestro begins to hit us with unbearable persistence. I grip Athena’s hand tightly, we lower our heads and bodies and take our steps small and carefully. For the next half hour the wind blows incessantly, it is chilly, from the black clouds it sends us sparse raindrops. At times we barely maintain our upright posture. Even the ground has allied itself against us. While initially it is slabs then covered with loose gravel.

12:00′. Exactly one and a half hour after our departure we gaze at the Aegean horizon from the highest peak of Naxos and the Cyclades. All the islands are around us, evoking memories and expectations of return.

With the wind almost gusting, we don’t need more than 55 minutes to reach Agia Marina.

AS OUR JOURNEY COMES TO AN END

Naxos seems literally endless. No matter how much we run with Manolis, there is always something new waiting for us at the next turn. Dozens of pages of notes and hundreds of photos are added every day. Naxos is true touring bliss. And we are very lucky to have with us every day, from early in the morning until late at night, a lover of his special homeland, an ideologist of touring and a tireless researcher.

We could not, of course, omit Apeiranthos, the birthplace of the legendary Manolis Glezos, which deserves a special article. The colossal unfinished statue of Dionysus, from the second half of the 6th century BC, in the quarries of Apollo, as well as the Ancient Aqueduct of Melana – Chora, were also amazing. The Castle of Apaliros was impressive, as well as the Upper Castle, with the ancient cemetery and the famous “Stave Stone”, the spectacular Menhir.

The archaeological site of Gyroulas, the amazing ancient tower of Himarros and so much more… And what to say, of course, about the trademark of Chora, the famous “Portara”, that is the monumental gate of the temple of Apollo, which was never completed. Visitors flock by the hundreds to the little island “Palatia”, next to the harbour, to be photographed with the Portara or to capture behind it, in the Aegean Sea, the last moments of the reigning sun…

– I want you to meet a grocery store, the likes of which you have never seen before, says Manolis one day.

Traditional grocery stores in various places in Greece come to mind. What more could this have been? We found out after a while at the Tziplakis Grocery. When we were amazed at the incredible number of items and products in this shop, which has been operating in the same location since 1938. First by grandfather Yannis and then by his son Antonis and grandson Kyriakos.

Wonderful Naxian products, olives “ascoudes” (thrumps), potatoes, legumes and oil, rakes and wines, herbs and spices in a variety of enchanting. Along with them, handmade baskets, bells from Filoti, cheeses of incredible taste, with the authentic Naxos gruyere and the famous “male cheese” (the kefalotyri) and other traditional products, of which there are many…

Such a grocery store, indeed, we have never seen before.

– What does it mean when someone leaves food on his plate? Manolis asks one afternoon.

– That they don’t like it, we answer.

– Or that it was so much that they couldn’t eat it. Let’s go meet “Maro”.

In the square “Protodikio”, we find “Maro”, the beautiful little tavern. Politeness, prompt service and, a few hours later, despite our best efforts, there is plenty of food. Epirus recipes, handmade pies, pork roast with garlic, veal in wine sauce and gardubakia. Lamb magnified in seven different ways, rotated daily, and countless other delicacies. Maro is, in every respect, a special case. Equally special is PIZZADELIA, also in Πρωτοδικioiou square. Such a delicious pizza we have to search long in our memory to find.

Many were our wanderings in “Bourgo”, in its labyrinthine alleys, where Manolis’ ancestral home was located. (A special article on the “CASTRO OF THE SANDOS” has been published in the ELL. PAN. issue 41, SEP.-OKT. 2004). Our coffee in the Old Town, in the small hotel “ANIXIS”, owned by Dimitris Sideris, was also enjoyable. From the amazing terrace the view is unique to the city, Portara and the Aegean Sea. The rooms are also excellent, with a unique style and traditional decoration and furnishings.

We have not forgotten the tavern of Yiannis in Melanes, with the beautiful view and the snails with red sauce or oil lemon.

In the sweet shop “Glykeia Zoi”. in Chalki, we could enjoy daily – with the inevitable consequences of course – orange pies and chocolate pies. Ideal for reminiscing the past and a Greek coffee was the excellent, inside and outside, space of the renovated old olive press in Engares.

For many of our appointments we chose “RANDEVOU”, the wonderful pastry shop-cafeteria of Yannis Papadopoulos, on the coastal avenue of the port. Handmade pies, a wide variety of pastries and homemade ice creams, combined with excellent service and top location, make Randevu one of the most privileged places to meet and relax in Naxos Town. An island that we hope to have the opportunity to visit many more times.

EPILOGUE

On the last day, Manolis showed up late for our appointment. Among his other parting gifts he was carrying a small, but – for its size – overly heavy backpack. It contained two dark reddish-brown stones.

-They are “emery stones”, says our friend, I searched for a long time to find them. But I thought you might have a little souvenir from the soil or-rather-the subsoil of Naxos. We didn’t have time this time, but I promise you next time I’ll take you to the island’s emery mines.

REFERENCES

(1) Γ. G. G. Mastoropoulos: a) “Byzantine Monuments of Naxos” in the collective work: “Naxos, sailing in time”, Municipality of Naxos 2006 and b) in “Naxos, the other world”.

(2) N. Kefalliniadis, “POTAMIA, the green traditional village of Naxos”, ATHENS 1996.

(3) N. Kefalliniadis, “The castle of the Sanouds in the land of Naxos”.

(4) Single-room, cruciform church with dome, 11th-13th century.

(5) It is an 11th century tower.

(6) St Nikitas or Christ the Master is a 13th century church with a vaulted ceiling and remains of frescoes.

(7) Β. “Naxos during the historical times”, in the collective work “Naxos, sailing in time” ibid.

(8) Large-scale potato production in the region began in 1953 with the establishment of the “Seed Production Centre”.

(9) In the Alykos Peninsula there is one of the largest and densest cedar forests in Greece, of about 600 hectares.

(10) St John the Theologian in Adissarou is a one-room church with a low dome, supported by four arches that rest on side pillars.

(11) Giorgos Anomeritis, “Byzantine Park of Naxos’ Dragaias”, Athens 2009.

(12) “Kitro” is a traditional and very special product of Naxos with a “protected designation of origin”. It is produced by distillation of citrus leaves from the distilleries of Vallindra and Probonas.

(13) The bleak period of Iconoclasm in Byzantium lasted 117 years, from 726 to 843 AD.

(14) According to C. (Naxos, the other world), the Holy Apostles is the most elaborate temple of Naxos.

SOURCES

– “Naxos, LASTING IN TIME”, Collective work, Municipality of Naxos 2006.

-N. Kefalliniadis, “The castle of the Sanouds in Naxos”, Municipality of Naxos.

– Γ. G.G. Mastoropoulos, “Naxos, the other world”, HELLENIC HOMOGRAPHIC PUBLICATIONS.

– Γ. Anomeritis, “Byzantine Park of Naxos Dragaia”, Militos, Athens 2009.

– K. Katsouros, “Naxos The Flower of the East”, ISTOR. NAXOS (ARSOS).

– M. Santorinaios, “TOP 7 NAXOS”, Naxos 2010.

– Γ. Veronis, “The traditional liotrivi of Damala”, Collect. Damaliotes of Naxos, 2001.

MAPS

1. Naxos 1:40.000, Anavasi
2. Naxos 1:40.000, Terrain