– How many hours to the top, Dad?

– I don’t know exactly. With the stops, it won’t take us three hours.

– That many? Uphill and hot?

– We’ll be climbing a mountain peak, Athena, at 1,900 metres. We’re not going for a walk on the beach at the White Tower.

Athena stops asking questions, seems to accept her fate, even if reluctantly. I can understand the 9-year-old’s objections. Climbing into the heart of July, with temperatures bordering on the heatwave, is in her judgment sheer absurdity. She would rather be playing with her friends or swimming in cool seas. So, of course, would we. Summer, however, in addition to the seas, is also suitable for mountains. One of them, particularly beautiful and passable, is Kozias, in the mountainous country of Trikala. It is an area with superb natural surroundings and an average altitude of over 1,000 metres, which significantly mitigates the stifling heat of the plain.

But there is something else that makes the place very desirable. It is the hotel “MAGEMA”. When, a few years ago, we saw the initial stages of its construction, it was impossible to imagine the final result. Local stone and wood, solid old blocks and earthy colour tones on the walls blend perfectly with the grass, countless manicured flowers as well as the stunning fir forest that surrounds the unit.

However, what above all else “enchants” about MAGEMA is its location, which justifiably gives it the name “the balcony of Koziakas”. Indeed, the entire eastern horizon is wide open on the long ridge of the Koziakas massif, as well as on its highest peak. As we gaze from the large veranda at the densely wooded mountain with its bare peaks, so realistically facing us, we feel it beckoning us in a friendly way, inviting us to get to know the unseen details, the paths, the fir-covered slopes.

The peak “ASTRAPI” or “HATZIPETROS”, 1.900 m.

In our room we leave the doors open. This allows the sounds of the night and the subtle scents of the fir forest to enter freely. And, of course, the wonderful breeze, so pleasant, so cool at an altitude of 1,140 metres. We wake up at dawn to the twittering of birds, calm and rested, ready for action. In the quality of our sleep, the contribution of the amazing mattresses and beds of COCO-MAT, which also signs all the other equipment and materials, is important.

Our hosts, Kostas Beletsiotis and Zoe, are up early. We take our steaming coffee and sit on the terrace across from Koziakas. There is no prettier sight at the start of the day than these dense and healthy, deep green mountain fir forests. Down low, the plain of Trikala is shrouded in gloom, the result of the stifling heat and humidity.

Zoe, meanwhile, prepares our breakfast: pies of two kinds, cheeses, eggs and cold cuts, local honey, cakes and homemade jams, her own yeast bread. It’s an attractive and hearty breakfast, ideal for holidaymakers but not for aspiring mountaineers preparing for the summit. So we limit ourselves to a little honey and take our pies and cake with us.

We climb from Magema up the good tarmac road to the south. At exactly 4 km we meet the main road network, which leads to the right towards Pertouli, Neraidochori and villages of Aspropotamos (El. Panorama, issue 30, NOE-DEK 2002), while to the left towards Elati and Pyli (El. Panorama, issue 19, CHEMONAS 2000). We are heading left. The famous “Pertouliotika Livadia”, this wide plateau, famous for its beauty, begins to develop around us, at an average altitude of about 1,200 metres. Its main characteristics are the rich meadows, the vast fir forests, the abundant water, the pleasant openness of the landscape and the wide horizon that leads to some of the most beautiful and most famous peaks of South Pindos.

The images in the Pertouliotika Livadia change throughout the year in a very fascinating way. In winter, the land is covered in abundant snow, temperatures drop very low and the waters freeze. Dense mists in the clearings and in the forest create dreamlike landscapes. It is the season for a fireplace, local tsipouro and dynamic excursions to the ski resort of Vertouli.

As spring arrives, the white of the ground and the grey of the atmosphere gradually recede, giving way to the explosive colour tones of the wildflowers, the deep blue sky, the abundant waters, now freed from the hostage of frost, gurgling from everywhere. The charm of spring in the Pertouliotika Livadia is unsurpassed.

Now in summer, the place still retains its beauty, although the drought has seriously affected the amount of water in the creek beds. It won’t be long before the autumn rains arrive from the mountain tops, however. The grass will come alive again in the clearings and the fresh mushrooms will emerge from their long slumber, to the great delight of the pickers.

– Then come for a walk, says Kostas. In the cool of the day we will walk and in the chill of the night we will gather around the fireplace.

We leave the asphalt and the ski facilities on our right, turn left into the meadow and leave the car in front of a wooden bridge. The distance from our hotel is 5.8 km exactly.

08:55: We depart from an altitude of 200 meters and about 20 meters after the bridge we meet a sign: “To Koziakas shelter 3 hours”. According to our information, we ignore this route and continue on the good forest road in S-SE direction. The fir trees tower high above our heads, some approaching 30 meters.

09:00: Using our information we discover the path among the tall ferns, on the left of the road. At this point there is no signage but the trailhead is obvious. Our direction is A and already, 40 metres later, a square sign made of sheet metal, yellow in colour with a black triangle inlaid, appears on a fir tree trunk. The signposting continues to be dense, the path develops easily passable and pleasant, in the shady fir forest that surrounds us on all sides. Five minutes later we meet a good forest road paved with gravel. Suddenly Kostas stops and points a finger at a point on the ridge.

– Do you recognize Brezhnev’s head up there?

I laugh, but at first glance it turns out that our friend is right. Eyebrows, chin and other features of Brezhnev’s face are clearly imprinted, by a quirk of nature, on the undulating relief of the mountain ridge. I don’t know what a Russian would think if he were with us, but I am sure he would automatically recognise the features of the old Soviet leader at the sight of this stone figure.

09:20: We come across a tract of gravel forest roads at an altitude of 1,280 meters. We ignore the roads and follow the sign opposite us to the E (90°) indicating the beginning of the trail. The slopes are steep and the signposting is dense.

The composition of the vegetation is gradually starting to become more varied. Along with the ubiquitous fir trees, there are now also cedars, a few young pine trees and numerous rowan trees, all laden with round but unfortunately still green and unripe suckers. There’s a wild apple tree (not a gorse), and a lone oak. Observing the ground we discover a beautiful orchid.

The trail becomes rocky but not rough, and yellow-black oil paint on stones is added to the marking. A gorgeous holophyllous lilium has found the space to grow and a way to survive among the green tightrope created by a young fir, a bearberry bush and numerous ferns. Many more lilium, doubles, triples and even quintuples decorate the route with their classy, delicate beauty more and more often.

09:50: At an altitude of 1,380 m we meet two signs, one on the left and one on the straight. On the left is the classic route (2.30′ hours to the top). On the straight is the new route (3.30′ hours). According to our information, the new route is milder and more interesting. We therefore decide to follow it.

Facing SE (140°), the path of the “New Route” continues on a dirt, easy-going path, with slight slopes. Very quickly the horizon opens up and successive bare peaks are revealed above the fir forests and among them Marosa, Lupata and Egg. Here’s a makeshift tin canopy among some spruce trees.

10:10: We arrive at a clearing with the same expansive views of fir forest and peaks. Here a watering trough, made of materials in harmony with the environment, wins the day: three successive carved deer stalks with a total length of at least 20 metres. Another characteristic of the place are the century-old fir trees with their towering trunks.

It briefly climbs up the trail in complete shade. Still always relaxing and very pleasant the New Route. We cross a slope overgrown with ferns, which exceed our boot in height. Among them, little Athena almost disappears. The atmosphere is fragrant with the scent of wild mint. Two young maples appear and then a larger one, the only maples we have encountered so far. The altitude has reached 1,500 metres.

Just above our heads rise successive rocky complexes, which after intense compressions in the distant geological past have acquired impressive formations. A rough and very steep path climbs for a few minutes up to the roots of the rocks.

11:00: After the rough uphill we reach a wide clearing in the fir forest, overgrown with tall grasses, thistles and ferns. A tin sign on a wooden stake directs us left, facing NE (40°). Auxiliary signs stand out on fir branches and white, plastic ribbons indicating our route. A few minutes later we reach a watering hole consisting of two carved logs. A thick hose channels water into the trough. We test it. It’s very nice and cool. And it gets even colder at the spring we encounter a little further up, at the root of a giant fir tree. In the third ten days of July it is a great privilege to come across such a water source at an altitude of 1,560 metres and with a satisfactory flow. The Koziakas richly rewards our efforts.

We quench our thirst, fill our canteens, treat ourselves to a satisfying stop in the shade and dew. Our journey, however, has not yet come to an end. We ascend in a N-NE direction (30th). We pass by fir trees with huge trunks, true monuments of nature over the centuries. The roots of one fir tree even stick out so far from the ground that they strongly resemble a plane tree.

11:45: We see a corral built on a small, sloping hillside. A few metres before the entrance to the corral, we discern the path on the right uphill. Here the lilium abounds. Among the ferns a few penstemons stand out. A large, blackened fir trunk lies on the ground, struck by lightning. On it is the familiar tin mark. A rough path begins, rocky and very steep. Amongst the rocks nestle tufts of a kind of very fragrant, wild thyme.

12:00: In a few minutes the rough trail ends.3 hours and 5 minutes after our departure, we arrive at the plateau of Lakka Ornofolia, at the foot of the highest peaks of Koziakas. Here, at an altitude of 1,720 meters, is built the stone shelter of E.M.O. Trikala. The name of the shelter is dedicated to Hatzipetros. It was first opened in 1959 and then in 1998. It is a beautiful building, in a position on the promontory, sheltered from the north winds. Built of stone, the shelter can accommodate 20 mountain visitors (1).

At the moment of our arrival there is a pleasant crowd. It comes from about fifteen small mountaineering campers, who spent the night here with their group leaders. The children are participating in one of the summer programs of the mountain camp of TREKKING HELLAS, whose facilities are located very close to our hotel. As part of the many and varied activities of the camp, the children’s ascent of Koziakas with an overnight stay at the Hatzipetros shelter has been included. With their luggage packed for the return trip, the children are happy and smiling, talking to us enthusiastically about their experience on the mountain.

– Only we got a little cold at night, comments a little girl.

We guide the children down and suddenly there is complete silence. We observe the beautiful topography of the Pertoulian Pastures below, to the W-NW we gaze at the mountains of Aspropotamos and to the south the peaks of the Agrafiotiki mountains. It is a wonderful place for contemplation and reflection.

12:30: We set off for the summit. We initially believe it to be one of the bad rocky outcrops in the E-SE. From our position this appears to be the highest peak. This is of course one of the usual mirages, due to the observer’s perspective. In reality, the highest peak of Koziakas is located NE of the refuge, a few hundred meters north of the previous peak.

Starting our course, we encounter a stream with a weak water flow about 100 meters SE of the shelter. This is the “Bakola” spring, which uses a hose to channel water to meet the needs of the corral a little lower down. The path then climbs in an almost N direction, strewn with stones. At a leisurely pace, due to the now increased heat, we reach a 20-minute long neck at the base of the summit. To the N-NW another, smooth and slightly lower peak rises.

A short stop at the neck is necessary, for some water and a few breaths. Then start the last section, quite loose and steep to the summit.

13:05: We have the great pleasure of being on the summit “Astrapi” or “Hatzipetros” of Koziakas, at an altitude of 1,900 meters. On the concrete pillar of the G.Y.S. an engraved marble piece mentions the name “Hadjipetros” and the altitude of 1,901 of the peak. We sit as comfortably as we can and make the most of the goodies of Life that we haven’t touched at breakfast. We gaze around us at the horizon. This is one of the most desirable rewards of those who deserve to climb a peak. To the W and NW we recognize in order the peak of the Egg (2,148 m.), the nearest Fairy (2,074 m.) and further north the well-known from the article of the Aspropotamos Trigia (2,204 m.).

In the background of the southern horizon, the numerous outcrops of the mountain ranges of Northern Agrafa are visible in the midday haze. Meteora and a part of Kalambaka can be seen low down, while the city of Trikala is invisible behind the haze created by the heat and humidity of the plain.

However, as cool as the breeze is, the midday heat is strong. And, unfortunately, there is no way to shelter on the bare of vegetation summit.

13:50: The return journey begins.

14:15: In 25 minutes we reach the now deserted shelter and continue without stopping.

14:50: In 1 hour we are in front of the coveted spring. Thick shade and cold water that we can’t seem to get enough of. Passing under the root of the fir tree is some of the most beautiful mountain water we have ever tasted.

16:30: After a total of seven and a half hours, the venture is complete. Looking out from the Magic Mountain, Koziakas seems much more familiar, much more friendly.

CLIMBING KOZIAKAS: BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE

Starting point.

Altitude: 1,200 m.

Finish: ‘Astrapi’ or ‘Hatzipetros’ peak

Altitude of finish: 1.900 m.

Altitude difference: 700 m.

Route: initially a forest road. 700 m.

Trail characteristics: Generally dirt and easily passable. Sometimes rocky and rough in places.

Slopes: Gentle, moderate and in places steep.

Difficulty: 1-2.

Marking: generally adequate.

Attractions: Excellent views of fir forests and bare peaks of Agrafa and Pindos, spring of excellent water, wildflowers, perennial fir trees

Time (without stops): ascent ± 3:30′ – descent ± 2:30′.

In conclusion: the ascent to the top of Koziakas is a gentle mountaineering route, which does not require special mountaineering skills. If the ascent and descent were done consecutively, without a long stop or overnight stay at the shelter (± 6 hours), then a relatively good physical condition would facilitate the undertaking.

THANKS

We would like to thank Kostas Beletsiotis and Zoe for their warm hospitality at the excellent mountain lodge “MAGEMA”. We especially thank Kostas for accompanying us to the top.

We also thank Thanasis Liakos of the Trikala Excursion Club (E.M.O.T.), as well as Thanasis Samourkas and Maria from the TREKKING HELLAS camp for their information.

Finally, we thank the pioneering tree farmer Kostas Peristeri, as well as the traditional miller Stefanos Tsiounis.

NOTES:

(1) Some of the above details of the reserve have been taken from the monumental work by N. NEZIS “THE GREEK MOUNTAINS, GEOGRAPHICAL ENGLISH”, VOLUME 3, pp. 384.