On the smooth water surface the slim silhouette of a heron is reflected in the smallest detail. He stands still and as his figure shadows the quiet shallow waters, he waits patiently for his prey. Now and then he advances with silent movements, bends his long neck in search of food and then stands still again. Almost motionless, but at the same time enthralled, we watch the spectacular opening of the dark wings and its take-off into the clear sky. Farther away, young white herons adorn the bare branches of the trees, while the older silver herons display their snow-white plumage.

We move almost silently along the dirt road, surrounded by the low reeds, allowing our eyes to wander along the idyllic channels of Lake Vistonida, somewhere on its western shore. Accompanied by Vassilis Terzis, our guide and valuable tour guide from the very first moment of our tour, we enjoy the beauty of the landscape on a warm sunny morning. The reeds and sedges are golden, the pond trees are blackened by the cormorants, while the shallow waters reflect the splendour of nature.  In an instant, our attention is drawn to the blue sky, interspersed with the white wings of birds arriving in our direction.

– They’re hummingbirds, Vassilis says as we now observe their long, broad, dark beaks up close.

They give us an unforgettable sight as they pass a short distance above us and then disappear into the horizon. Our presence doesn’t seem to bother the young herons that still stand on the branches of the trees waiting for their food. With careful movements, George attempts to capture their small, elegant all-white figures, but they soon become aware of us, fly low and hide in the clumps of reeds.

WETLAND PROTECTION REGIME

Our first introduction to the Vistonida is a fascinating approach to the wetland and the wondrous world of birds. On the southern border of the prefectures of Xanthi and Rodopi, Lake Vistonida and the Porto Lagos lagoon make up a place of immeasurable value for the ecosystem. The ecological and biological importance of the wetland has been recognised worldwide and is protected by the ‘Convention on Wetlands of International Importance as Waterfowl Habitat’, known as the ‘Ramsar Convention’, which was signed in 1971 in Ramsar, Iran, and entered into force in 1975. Greece signed and activated the Ramsar Convention by declaring 11 wetland areas included in the list of Wetlands of International Importance.  For the 11 wetland areas in Greece, proposals for the delimitation of protection zones were already in place in 1986. However, by 1994, only four wetlands (Amvrakikos Gulf, Lake Kerkini, Messolonghi Lagoon, Kotychi Lagoon) had been designated by ministerial decision, while the protection status of Lake Vistonida and the Porto Lagos lagoon and the other five areas (Lake Ismarida, Nestos Delta, Axios – Loudia – Aliakmonas Delta, Evros Delta, Volvi and Koroneia Lakes) was pending.

It was only in 1996 that the first step was taken towards the effective protection of the wetland and its rich flora and fauna. By Joint Ministerial Decision 5796/16.9.96, the wetlands of the Nestos Delta, Lake Vistonida and the Porto Lagos Lagoon, Lake Ismarida and the Thrace lagoons were designated as a National Park of Eastern Macedonia-Thrace. The area was divided into five zones according to the degree of environmental protection: zones A (nature protection areas), zones B (intermediate protection areas), zones C1 and C1a (areas of controlled development), and zones C2 (areas of controlled tourist development and recreation). Since 1999, efforts have continued to consolidate the protection status of the National Park, which is the largest terrestrial protected area in the country, as it includes three broad wetland complexes, out of the 11 protected by the Ramsar Convention in Greece.

Today, the area is not substantially protected. The recent establishment of a management body for the National Park is the optimistic side of the current situation. Aiming to inform and raise awareness among local residents and visitors about the importance of wetland conservation, and with a philosophy of harmonious coexistence of humans and fauna, the management body is expected to provide solutions for the protection and restoration of nature in the area.

The Ramsar Convention was followed by other international regulations for the protection of wetlands and fauna. According to Directive 79/409/EEC, which came into force in 1981, Lake Vistonida and the lagoon of Porto Lagos have been declared as “Special Protection Areas” and therefore Greece as an EU Member State has the obligation to maintain not only the wild bird populations, but also sufficient area and variety of habitats to achieve their protection. This directive is very powerful as it imposes strict legal obligations whose violation can lead a Member State to the European Court of Justice. At the same time, the area is a Specially Protected Mediterranean Area under the Barcelona Convention and is also included in the European Natura 2000 network.

LOCATION AND HISTORY

The southern border of the prefectures of Xanthi and Rodopi crosses the vastness of Lake Vistonida from its north-western to its south-eastern end. As the connecting link between the two prefectures, Vistonida, one of the most beautiful and largest lakes in Greece, is formed in the middle of a wide, fertile plain. Facing west it overlooks Xanthi and east Komotini. Above its northern edge hangs the Rhodope mountain range, while to the south the small town of Porto Lagos with its lagoon is whitewashed.

The route from Xanthi to Komotini was until recently an opportunity to contemplate, even if only for a short while, the vast expanse of Vistonida and the small church of Agios Nikolaos rising from the uncharted waters of the Porto Lagos lagoon. Today, the construction of the Egnatia highway has reduced the distances for the traveller of Thrace, but has deprived him of the possibility to see a place of unique natural beauty and rare ecological importance. We will enjoy this place if we leave Egnatia for a while and follow the old National Road to Porto Lagos. The picturesque fishing village is only 24 km from Xanthi and 240 km from Thessaloniki.

It is no coincidence that the name was given to the port by the Italian sailors, Venetians and Genoese, who passed through the area in the 19th century. Porto Lagos, the “Port of the Lake”, is inextricably linked to the myths and history of Vistonida.

But how was Lake Vistonida or Vistonida created? About 5,000,000 years ago, the sea entered the area of the present lake and with the action of its waves expanded inland, creating a form of enclosed lagoon. However, the currents that began to act in the basin in the opposite direction to that of the sea created a natural sandy barrier that cut it off from the sea. The basin began to be fed by rivers, torrents and lake sediments, while in the southern part of the basin it communicated with the sea through narrow channels.

In this way the lake was formed, which took its name from the Vistones or Vistones, the ancient Thracian tribe that inhabited the area. This is the site of the palace of the Biston king Diomedes, also known as Tirida or ‘Cartera Coma’, and the stables of his famous horses, which were the target of the eighth feat of Hercules. The carnivorous horses are said to have drunk water from the river Kosynthos, which ran alongside the ancient city of Kosynthos, which is believed to have been on the site of present-day Xanthi. The capital of the region was Kartera, which was probably located very close to the lake. According to Strabo, the lake had a perimeter of 200 stadia (about 36 km) and its creation was attributed to Hercules. According to mythology, when Hercules came to take Diomedes’ horses to the king of Mycenae, Eurystheus, much of the area was below sea level, but natural obstacles on the coast prevented the sea from penetrating the land. So when Hercules faced the attack of the Bystonians, he dug a canal through which the sea entered the lower lands of the plain, flooding everything and wiping out the city of Cartera.

The special geographical position and the morphology of the lake made it a passage and a means of communication since antiquity. The area of Porto Lagos and Vistonida was the starting point of a natural road that led from the sea to the interior of Thrace and reached the Danube. In the 6th century BC two city-states were created here, Abdera and Dikaia, with the lake as a possible border between them. Between the lake and the sea there was a narrow passage of land. Herodotus, Plutarch and Arrian mention in their texts that this narrow passage was the means of communication for the inhabitants of the region. Herodotus, in fact, describing the route of Xerxes, says that he passed by Lake Ismarida, which is located between Maroneia and Strymi, and the Vistonida near the city of Dikea, where two rivers, the Trayos and the Komsatos, pour their water. Aristotle has preserved the testimony that Lake Vistonida had the most fish species. Already in ancient times, therefore, the lake was famous for the abundance and variety of its fish.

In Roman times, there was a port near Porto Lagos and the famous Via Egnatia was built, connecting the Adriatic with the Bosphorus. At the beginning of the 6th century AD, the Byzantine emperor Anastasiopolis was built on the north-western shore of the lake by the Byzantine emperor Anastasiopolis. At that time, the harbour near Porto Lagos was called Poroi, meaning “passages”, apparently because at this place there was a large canal that connected the lake with the sea. Until the end of the 17th century, ships passed through the canal and reached the northern cove of the lake, where Anastasiopolis was located. Pori was a Byzantine settlement with a commercial, military and fishing character. The settlement had a strong fortress and a bishop’s church. Its harbour was a centre of shellfish farming and a fishing port, which controlled the entrance to Lake Bistonida, open to the sea at that time.

During the Turkish occupation, the name Poroi was changed to Poros and later to Bourou. This name referred to the entire Lake Vistonida as well as the island opposite Porto Lagos. In the 19th century, the current settlement of Porto Lagos was created next to the ancient town, since the location did not lose its strategic character. In the second half of the 19th century Porto Lagos was one of the important export ports of the Thracian area – along with Dedeagats (Alexandroupolis), Raedestos and Kallipoli – mainly for tobacco and cereals. The production of eels, heads, carp and egg-tarachos remained important. Commercial activity was mainly interrupted after the First World War.

THE MORPHOLOGY OF THE LAKE AND THE LAGOON

The vast expanse of the Vistonida is a water reservoir occupying the lower part of a large catchment area of 130 km2 . The area of the lake is 46 km2 , but this area varies according to the season to around 6 km2 . The average depth of the lake varies from 2 to 2,5 metres and the maximum depth is 3,5 metres.

Thanks to its particular morphology, the lake is characterised by a unique phenomenon for Greece. The northern part of the lake has fresh water as in winter it is fed by the rivers Kosynthos or Xanthiotis, Kom-psatos or Polyanthos and Trayos or Aspropotamos. The southern part, which receives seawater from the three channels that connect it to the lagoon of Porto Lagos, is brackish. However, in recent years the flow of the rivers has been decreasing and the water of the lake has gradually become brackish.  The salt content of the water varies from place to place depending on how the water moves to and from the lake. Because of this peculiarity, a wide variety of environmental conditions have been created under which different species of waterfowl prefer to live. Because of its location, Lake Vistonida can be described as a lagoon as it is separated from the marine area by an isthmus of dunes (Porto Lagos area) and communicates with it by channels perpendicular to the isthmus.

The lagoon of Porto Lagos, which covers an area of 2,50 km2 , is connected to the sea by a natural channel 500 m long and 60 m wide and to the lake to the north by three 5-10 m wide channels. The wetland complex of Vistonida is completed by the Lafri and Lafrouda lagoons to the west of the bay of Vistonia, the Dalliani lagoon to the east, a smaller lagoon at Nea Kessani, the Kosynthos, Komsatos and Trayos rivers and extensive freshwater marshes.

The diversity in vegetation is impressive. Reedbeds, tamarisk bushes, salt marshes, riparian forests, wet meadows, plants living on or in the water (water lily, river grass), salt-tolerant plants or plants adapted to live on the sandy beaches and cultivated areas make up the mosaic of rich vegetation. A particular feature of the landscape are the two islands dominated by the churches of Agios Nikolaos and Panagia Pantanassa of the Vatopedi Monastery.

Lake Vistonida and the lagoon of Porto Lagos are of unique ecological value and form the link in the wider chain of wetlands of Western Thrace.

ACQUAINTANCE WITH THE FAUNA OF THE REGION

The elegant, tall, lanky figures of flamingos stand out in the shallow waters of the lagoon. With their characteristic beak submerged in the water, they filter the muddy waters and capture small shellfish, shrimps and worms. After some time, they lift their long necks and walk gracefully, waving their heads left and right.  Three or four seagulls and a few ducks surround their rosy figures, while cormorants bask with open wings on the wooden poles. Life is teeming in all its forms in the wetlands of Vistonida and Porto Lagos. On the banks, in the reed beds, in the wet forests, in the mudflats, in the meadows and in other habitats, thousands of birds live and develop. In the fresh and brackish waters, the variety and large populations of fish justify the significant fish production. Amphibians, reptiles and mammals find a suitable place to live.

This magnificent wetland is one of the best known places in south-eastern Europe for the occurrence of rare bird species that are not normally found in our geographical area, especially in the winter months. The winged world of birds is dominated by large numbers of populations and a variety of species. Nearly 300 species have been counted. Of these, 141 breed in the area, 144 overwinter and 214 rest here on their migratory journey.

More than a few bird species depend on the wetland’s conservation for their existence, as they are globally threatened. Of the species that nest and breed in the wetland, endangered or vulnerable species include the sea eagle (Haliaaetus albicilla), the kite (Aquila pomarina), the spiny-tailed godwit (Hoplopterus spinosus), the Purple Finch (Ardea purpurea), the Stone Curlew (Burhinus oedicnoemus), the Common Duck (Aythya nyroca), the Reed-billed Crane (Himantopus himantopus), the Yellow-bellied Gull (Gelochelidon nilotica), the Water Swallow (Glareola pratincola), the Common Gull (Sterna hirundo).

Several endangered bird species winter in the area:  The Silver pelican (Pelecanus crispus), for which Porto Lagos is the second most important area in Greece as a stopover during migration and wintering,  The Spotted Eagle (Aquila clanga), Vassilian Eagle (Aquila heliaca), Cephalopod (Oxyoura leucocephala), Lesser White-fronted Goose (Phalacrocorax pygmaeus), Dwarf Goose (Anser erythropus), Red-headed Goose (Branta ruficollis), Capercaillie (Egretta alba). The headed duck, a species of duck, and the lesser cormorant, the smallest species of cormorant, are two globally threatened species in the Balkans. To protect them, ornithological organisations in Greece, Romania and Turkey and the Department of Zoology of the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki are cooperating in the joint DAC project. Vistonida is one of the two most important lakes in the world for head lice (the other being Lake Burdur in Turkey), as several thousand head lice gather here every winter. The global population is now no more than 13,000, whereas at the turn of the century there were more than 100,000. The global distribution of the langoustine is limited to the Adriatic coast, the North Adriatic coast and the North Sea. Aegean, the Black Sea, the Caspian Sea and Iraq. The population does not exceed 30,000 pairs, and disturbance and destruction of riparian forests are the main reasons why it has ceased nesting in several areas.

The wetland is an important resting and feeding station during migratory periods for the globally endangered Leptomita (Numenius tenuirostris), for which the area is the second most important in Greece, the Houliar Flycatcher (Platalea leucorodia), the Common Bunting (Botaurus stellaris), the Fishcock (Plegadis falcinellus), the Common Pelican (Pelecanus onocrotalus) and for the three species of Moustached Gull (Chlidonias hybrida, Chlidonias leucopterus, Chlidonias niger).

Since 1983, the impressive Phoenicopterus ruber or Flamingos have appeared in the lake and their numbers have increased considerably. The beautiful herons are the most characteristic birds of the wetland. Their varied species vary in size and colour, but they stand out with their long legs and long, flexible necks. The White-crowned Night Heron (Egretta garzetta), the White-crowned Night Heron (Egretta alba), the Cattle Egret (Ardea cinerea), the Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea), the Little Egret (Ixobrychus minutus), the Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax) and the Cryptic Egret (Ardeola ralloides) add to the aesthetic and biological value of the area. During the winter, large numbers of waterfowl such as the Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo) and the Phalarope (Fulica atra), whose populations have been increasing, and the White-faced Goose (Anser albifrons) occur in the wetland.

The wetland is equally important for the silent world of fish. Around 50 species have been recorded in Vistonida and Porto Lagos, which vary in their forms and preferences. Some species live exclusively in freshwater sites, i.e. in the northern part of the Vistonida, others tolerate the presence of salt in the water and therefore live in many fresh, brackish or saltwater sites, and others live only in salt water, i.e. in the lagoon of Porto Lagos or in the southern part of the Vistonida. Thritsa (Alosa caspia vistonica) is an endemic species and lives only in the fresh waters of the Vistonida. However, in recent years it seems to have disappeared due to the increasing salinity of the lake. Other endangered or rare species are the Yelarta (Chalcalburnus chalcoides macedonicus), the Thrakobelonitsa (Cobitis strumiae), the Tylinari (Leuciscus cephalus macedonicus). Of commercial interest are mainly mullets and eels, which were the main production of the lake and lagoon a few years ago. Fishing for heads was widespread in ancient Greece. The fishery was supplemented by gibbons and a variety of broad species, mainly sea bass, murres, bream and sole. Aterina also breeds in the area and has a significant production. In order to improve the fishing yield, the Vistonida Fishing Cooperative has established fish farms located in the channel between the lake and the lagoon.

The rich fauna of the area is complemented by amphibians that are found in large numbers. Frogs (Rana dalmatina, Rana ridibunda), toads (Bufo bufo), green toads (Bufo viridis), bobbins (Bombina variegata) and tree frogs (Hyla arborea) predominate. River turtles (Mauremus caspica), swamp turtles (Emys orbicularis) and water snakes (Natrix natrix) disturb the tranquillity of the waters, while the land is also home to a wide variety of reptiles: turtles, lizards and snakes. The wetland and the surrounding area, the river deltas, forests, scrubland and hillsides are home to some 25 species of mammals. Of these, the Otter (Lutra lutra), the Wolf (Canis lupus) and the Jackal (Canis aureus) are listed in the Red Book of Endangered Vertebrates of Greece as vulnerable.

TOUR OF THE PORT OF LAGOS AND THE BANKS OF THE LAKE

The fishing boats were reflected in the calm waters of the lagoon while the sun was just beginning to warm us up when we arrived at the Lake Vistonida Information Centre in Porto Lagos. Our meeting with Vassilis Terzis, in charge of the Centre, was scheduled for early in the morning, as our desire to experience as much of the natural beauty of the wetland as possible required time comfort.

– What would you say if today we got to know the lake around its shores?

– Agreed, but access to the shores is not possible in most parts of the lake. However, we will try to navigate in a circular way starting from Porto Lagos.

We board Vassilis’s 4×4 and cross the national road that connects Xanthi with Komotini and passes through Porto Lagos. I have time to capture the first images of the landscape that spreads around me: the well-kept village houses, the strips of land penetrating the shallow waters and in the narrow channel, under the bridge, all the small boats anchored with their variety of color combinations. The settlement of Porto Lagos overlooks its homonymous bay as it is built on a narrow strip of land between the lake and the cove of the bay.

From the beach, an elaborate creation of nature, the bay of Porto Lagos, stretches out before us, enclosed around by islets and islets with a narrow outlet to the sea. All year round, large and small ships enter the port to drop off or pick up goods. But Porto Lagos remains a picturesque fishing village. The inhabitants have not forgotten their traditional pastime, fishing. Dozens of small commercial boats fight daily to supplement their income, and there are also professionals who supply bait to the fishing shops. But also amateur fishermen find in the harbour a good fishing ground for their hobby almost all year round. Next to the church, the square with its playground and green spaces is a model of regeneration. Along the beach and on the main road, the picturesque little taverns with their delicious snacks and fresh fish are a challenge at any time of day. Smoked eel, lykourinos (smoked mullet), cephalopods, sardines, murmurs and sea bass are some of the fine fish of the area.

Across the harbour, on a nose of land, the deep green of the pine trees completes the feast of images and colours. We proceed towards the artificial grove of maritime pine trees in the hope of spotting some of the rare birds that nest in the treetops.

– The pine forest has sheltered a significant population of herons, as there is no other forest in the area with large trees that could support the weight of the nest. Herons nest close to where they feed, unlike pelicans, which can travel long distances to find food for their young. The colony of herons in the pine forest is the third largest in Greece and is very important for the species. About 640 nests have been counted, Vassilis informs us.

– And what is the right season to observe herons?

– Of course the breeding season, that is from March to August. Two species of herons nest in the pine forest: the white-crowned chickadee and the ash-crowned chickadee. In early March, the ash tit comes and nests. Around July, its young have begun to fly. In May the white heron arrives and its young fly in August. Of course, visitors during the breeding season are advised to contact the Information Centre to get the necessary instructions on how to move around without causing disturbance to the birds.

With the thought that the breeding season is over and the opportunity to observe this amazing process is gone, we walk towards the piney area. However, from our first steps, the loud croaks heard from above are the only sounds that come to our ears. We move almost silently and raise our eyes, searching searchingly. At the top of a pine tree, about 20 m above our heads, we can just make out the grey plumage of a Cinderella.

– It is probably a cattail that has been late to breed and its young have not yet grown up, Vassilis tells me in a low voice.

We remain still, trying in vain to make out the movements of the heron as it feeds its young. The piercing sounds are still loud until the large bird spreads its wings and flies off in search of food. We climb up to the observation deck where the view of the pine forest is stunning. We cross the pine forest and reach the sandy shore of Porto Lagos. The bay of Vistonia opens up in front of us. The sea is broken up between bays and islets. Dozens of seagulls are resting in the mudflats. The bay of Vistonia and its muddy beaches are an important resting place for the birds (waders, gulls, gulls, gulls, gulls, etc.) that spend the winter here.

We leave Porto Lagos behind us, and again following the road from Xanthi to Komotini, we pass the tiny islet of Agios Nikolaos that looms on our right, while on the other side the lake offers us an endless serenade in its uncontaminated waters.

Arriving at the settlement of Nea Kessani, we leave the paved road and follow the dirt road that leads us up the embankment that runs along the western shore. The dirt road, accessible up to a point by conventional car, winds through narrow channels, reed beds and lakeside trees where thousands of birds feed, rest and nest.

– Where there is water, there is life, says Vassilis.

Soon the road becomes difficult and the canals give way to areas of cultivated land.

– How far does the embankment go? asks George.

– It reaches as far as the mouth of the Kosynthos, but this dirt road is not always open. It can be closed because of the rainfall, answers Vassilis. Nearby are the ruins of Anastasioupolis, the Byzantine city that flourished economically because it served as a trading port on the northwestern shore of the lake. The archaeological site is home to a waterlogged forest of outstanding beauty.

– Can we visit the area?

– We will try. It’s definitely worth it. Although it would be easier to reach it by following the old Xanthi-Komotini road and turning from the village of Amaxades. The great wall that started from the mountains of Rodopi and went all the way to Anastasioupolis passes through the village.

We managed to approach the area. From a distance we can see the dense forest from where the half-ruined stone towers of the Byzantine state rise, while as we approach the road becomes very rough. We leave the car and crossing the dirt road through dense vegetation, we reach the entrance of the fenced archaeological site. A dense waterlogged forest grew from the siltation of the Kosynthos torrent within twenty years, that is, since the archaeological site was fenced off. Strolling along the forest path among willows, poplars, plane trees, alders, alders, cranes and oaks with trunks wrapped in the tight mesh of climbing plants, we discover the history of the place. Huge square and round towers rise up among the dense foliage. My imagination takes me back to those days, when the city was bustling with life and the ships were bringing their goods into the harbour. The history of Anastasioupoli dates back to the Roman era, when commercial and economic activity moved to the foothills of the Rhodope Mountains. Pliny mentions that the Thracian city of TIRIDA was located here, while Strabo mentions it as Kartera Komi. In Roman maps and in Petinger’s map it was marked with the name Stabulo Diomedis i.e. “Stable of Diomedes”. The city was re-founded at the beginning of the 6th century AD by the Emperor Anastasius. Built on the axis of the Egnatia road, it was an important station and port. It became a castle with a rich cultural blossoming and the seat of a bishop. In Byzantine times Justinian repaired the castle and built a long long wall that became an aqueduct. The wall was long, about 5 km long, double and started from the foothills of the Rhodope Mountains. The mission of this wall was to bring water to the city but also to prevent the passage from the plain of Xanthi to that of Komotini and vice versa. In 561 AD the Huns sacked Anastasioupolis, and in 1206 it was destroyed by the Bulgarian Tsar Ioannitsis. In 1341 Andronikos III Palaiologos rebuilt the city and gave it the name Peritheorion. His monogram is still preserved today on the large arched gate leading to the harbour. After its conquest by the Turks in 1361, the city declined and was abandoned. The fortified enclosure, which was fortified with quadrilateral and circular towers, is preserved today.

I stand and observe with awe the central arched gate, easily distinguishing the monogram of the Palaiologues, a sign of a bygone era. After a while we depart for the Outpost of the Vistonida Fishing Cooperative at Dialampi, at the northeastern end of the lake. On our way, a phone call received by Vassilis reminds us how vulnerable the bird world is and how much it needs our care and protection. Some conscientious citizen picked up an injured woodpecker from the road and without wasting time alerted the Information Centre officials. Fortunately, examples of environmentally aware people are sending us optimistic messages about the future of wetlands. We have already crossed into the prefecture of Rodopi and we are crossing the endless areas of tobacco cultivation surrounding the northern side of the lake. But the landscape changes completely as we take the road from the village of Dialampi to Fylakio, near the shores of the lake. The dirt road becomes increasingly narrowed by the dense reed beds that form an impenetrable wall on our left and right, making our path difficult. Upon reaching our destination, Najet, a vigilant guardian of the area, welcomes us to his small home. It is time for lunch and as a hospitable host he prepares the table for us. And what else could the meal include but the fresh fish of the region? We enjoy the delicious grilled head fish accompanied by salad and plenty of retsina. We renewed our appointment for the next day as Najet took us on a tour of the inner lake in his fishing boat.

On the way back to Porto Lagos we briefly veer off course and head to Avdira in order to pick up the injured jay. Shortly afterwards, sitting in the back seat of the car, I carefully hold the paper box in which the unfortunate bird has found temporary shelter. With my fingertips, I fiddle with a piece of its broken beak.

– Unfortunately the bird will not be able to feed itself, it is not possible to glue the broken beak, explains Vassilis. I’ll send it to the EKPAZ to be treated.

The afternoon finds us in one of the taverns of Porto Lagos, sampling the fine delicacies, the delicious local lykurino (smoked cephalopod) and fresh seafood. Our eyes rest gazing at the lagoon, in its untarnished waters rest dozens of terns and herons.

OFF THE COAST OF VISTONIDA

Under the hazy overcast sky, the shore of the lake at the Outpost of Dialampi looks different from the day before. Najet’s fishing boat gently tears through the dark waters that, now and then, glow with the weak sunlight. As we unwind, the lake’s winged inhabitants stir, springing up from the dense reeds and flying with incredible swiftness from one side of the channel to the other. The mountains of Rodopi loom behind us, while the vastness of Vistonida unfolds before our eyes from the exit of the canal. Only a piece of land that penetrates the dark waters blocks our visibility over the entire expanse of the lake. This strip of land, where the river Komsatos flows out, is home to a multitude of birds.

In a moment, we spot a concentration of birds. As we approach, we make out the figures of large pelicans, but they quickly become aware of us and spread their wings to fly. Some of them fly for a few seconds close to our boat, making circular formations in the sky.

– When they fly in circles it means they will lift air, Najet tells us.

Although worried about the possible change in weather, we continue on our way. At the tip of an islet, Vassilis spots an eagle from a distance.

– It must be a sea eagle. Check with the telephoto lens to see if it has a yellow beak, Vassilis tells George.

We approach at slow speed, hoping not to be seen. Through the binoculars I can see the yellow beak and its impressive size. It stands proud among the foliage of the low vegetation, but in a few seconds it spreads its dark wings and moves away.

– We are lucky to have seen him. The sea eagle hunts mainly here, on the north side of the lake. But it is an endangered species and Vistonida is one of only four areas in Greece where it has nests. Other areas are Evros, the Nestos Delta, Ismarida and possibly Kerkini. Only one pair lives in the whole lake because it needs a large territory. In fact, the sea eagle has a permanent pair, Vassilis informs us.

We are now moving south. The waves are foaming violently on the surface of the lake and the weather is changing noticeably. The sky darkens, a strong wind rises and the lake waters look like a turbulent sea. The float swings on the waves. We hope that this hopeless bad weather off Vistonida will not last long. As we cross the lake at high speed, the scenery becomes sunnier. The wind is diminishing and the waves are subsiding. We look inquiringly towards the shore, the spectacle unfolding before our eyes rewarding us. Hundreds of flamingos with their svelte silhouettes and rosy pink colouring rise a few metres above the surface of the lake and then take off into the sky. They are quickly followed by the others who rush in to complete the flawless combinations. Their wings unfurl a stunning combination of brine and black. Fascinated, we watch their elegant silhouettes disappear into the horizon and then set sail for the Outpost.

Our entry into the narrow canals has another surprise in store for us. A purple heron emerges from the reeds, flies with its impressive wings to the opposite bank and hides again among the reeds. Leaving Fyla-kyo we bid farewell to Najet and with him the image of the lake with its quiet waters glistening under the sun’s rays.

HOTEL “PORTO VISTONIS”

The evening hours find us in the garden of the hotel “Porto Vistonis” enjoying the cool breeze and absolute silence. Built near the bay of Vistonia and the port of Porto Lagos, the hotel is a base for exploring the wetland. The architecture of the complex has been designed to blend harmoniously with the undeveloped area, which thanks to its priceless ecological value has not been developed for tourism. Two brothers, Thanasis and Yannis Arapis, decided to fill the absence of tourist infrastructure in the area. Their love and sensitivity for their place contributed decisively to the creation of “Porto Vistonis” in 1998. The ecotourism unit was created with the co-financing of the European LEA-DER II programme, and is the basis for a wide range of activities. The complex has one- and two-room furnished rooms with all amenities as well as an outdoor barbecue in the garden area. The hotel is managed by the Ecotourism – Fish Farm Porto Lagos SA, which aims to develop ecotourism and to preserve and promote the rich historical and cultural heritage of the area. To this end, the Porto Lagos Development Association was created.

Somewhere between our endless tours of the area, we found the opportunity to talk to Thanasis Arapis, a man with sensitivity for his place, visions and innovative ideas. His main concern is to inform visitors about the ecological and historical interest of the area.

– One of the assets of the area is that the sea of Porto Lagos is particularly curative. Its sandy bay is suitable for the treatment of various ailments. Also the visitor – tourist, tourist, hiker, ecologist, sportsman – can choose from a range of activities. We have slowly started to organize short tours for our visitors in the surrounding area: in the lakes Vistonida and Ismarida, in Pomakochoria, in the waterfalls of Livaditis, in Nestos and in the archaeological sites of Avdira and Maronia, explains Thanasis Arapis.

Through the actions of the Development Association, we have collected data on the history and folklore of Porto Lagos and we are planning to publish informative brochures. But the plans do not stop here. We are thinking of creating a museum and reviving old fishing methods.

– This all sounds very encouraging. But is your own initiative enough to develop ecotourism in the region?

– Surely great efforts are also needed from the state authorities. Through the Development Association, we have proposed certain actions to the relevant bodies, such as the establishment of local festivals in Porto Lagos. For example, the Vistonida eel and the wolf eel are local products which could be used to promote tourism.

THE DEGRADATION OF THE WETLAND

Several decades ago, dense waterlogged forests covered the present vast fields around Vistonida, while oak forests were found on the hills. In 1922, with the Asia Minor Catastrophe, thousands of refugees settled in the area and created the current settlements around the lake. Thousands of acres of agricultural land were distributed, but after the corresponding forest areas were cleared. It is no coincidence that some residents of Nea Kessani, the settlement at the western end of Vistonida, remember that in their childhood they used to walk along paths covered with dense vegetation to get from the village to the field and from the field to the corral.

Agriculture (cereals, tobacco, sugar beet, maize, cotton) and livestock farming (cattle, sheep and goats) were and still are the main occupations of the inhabitants. The increase in population has led to an increase in the area under cultivation and the need for irrigation. The clearing and drainage of the lakeside areas for the benefit of agriculture and the use of wetland areas for grazing continue to this day, significantly reducing the area of the wetland. At the same time, the use of agricultural products, especially around irrigation canals and surface water abstraction points, has contributed to water pollution.

This paved the way for interventions such as the construction and extension of the road network, the construction of flood protection and drainage works and the creation of tourist facilities, which wiped out vast areas of rich flora. The construction of a lakeside dyke along the western side of the Vistonida and drainage channels led to the drainage of large areas of land which were given over to agriculture. The consequences have also had a negative impact on the survival of many species of birdlife, which have seen their habitats shrink.

The planned flood control and drainage and agricultural road works, which started in 1997, included major interventions in the east and north of the lake, such as river regulation, dyke construction and drainage networks. With the intervention of the Hellenic Ornithological Society, only the first part of the project was constructed and the second phase was canceled. However, the impact of the works carried out was sufficient to disturb the flora and fauna of the wetland. The regulation and canalisation of the River Trayos, to the east of the lake, contributed to a significant reduction in the area of water chestnut (Trapa natans), one of the most endangered plant species in the European Union. To the north-east of Vistonida, the works on the Komsatou River have resulted in the deforestation of a large area of riparian forest, depriving a variety of bird species, mainly birds of prey and herons, of habitat suitable for their nesting and breeding. All the works resulted in the drainage of some 3 000 hectares of wetland to the east of Vistonida and thus in the destruction of large areas of tamarisk scrub, marshes, swamps, reed beds and periodically flooded areas of salt and fresh water, which contributed to the natural self-cleaning system of the lake and to the conservation of biodiversity. Due to the alteration of the habitats, valuable areas where hundreds of bird species feed, nest and rest have been reduced and degraded, including many endangered species such as the sea eagle – one of the last 4-5 pairs in Greece living in the area – the king eagle, the lagoon, the roseate pelican, the silver pelican, the silver pelican and the leptoids. Fortunately, the work to complete the project was interrupted, and the areas cut off from the lake have not been given over to agriculture to date, thus preserving important areas of habitat.

However, the impact on the wetland’s fish fauna is also serious. The fact that the rivers Kosynthos and Komsatos cease to supply the lake, particularly in the summer months, and the dredging of channels connecting the lake to the sea have led to a gradual increase in the salinity of Vistonida. Since 2000, due to severe water scarcity, the waters of the lake have become salty even in the northern part of the lake, resulting in the reduction or extinction of freshwater species. Vistonida used to be famous for the production of excellent quality carp, which was the dominant fish of the lake in the 1970s-1980s, but in recent years its production has reached zero. Other fish species, such as sea bass and eel, which is exportable with a designation of origin on the world market, are also in decline.

In the 1920s, the annual fishing yield of the Vistonis was close to 400,000 okads, i.e. 512 tonnes. This reality has changed over the years. Fishery production was threatened by pollution, as until 1990 the lake received urban and industrial waste from Xanthi and its industrial area via the Kosynthos River. Today, biological treatment is in operation and the waste is discharged into the sea, but the risk of pollution remains due to the use of fertilisers that enter the lake through the numerous ditches.  Diseases and mass mortalities of fish have been recorded due to water pollution, resulting in the risk of extinction of various species and disturbance of the ecosystem.

Fishing is still one of the main occupations of the local population. Vistonida and the lagoon of Porto Lagos remain an important area of extensive fish farming where fish farms are used. Large schools of fish – mullets, horse mackerel, anchovies, anchovies, gurnards, sea bass, marmots – enter the wintering ditches from the sea in the spring months and fishermen collect them in large quantities when they leave the sea in winter, when they come out to spawn. However, there is a trend towards intensification of aquaculture which will affect the balance of the fish population, while poaching is a cause of the decline in the fish population.

The degradation of the wetland is also exacerbated by poaching, to the point where the existence of game wardens is an urgent necessity, as hunting in restricted areas is a reality.

EPILOGUE

The first time I spoke on the phone with Vassilis Terzis, I felt a little disappointed when I heard him inform me that the time we had chosen was not the most ideal to see in all its glory the wondrous world of birds nesting or resting in the wetland. On the visits that followed, the lake, with its different aspects, always had something special to offer us. The absolute reflection of the earth and sky through its calm waters, its stormy waves that made it seem like a turbulent sea, its vastness lost in the morning mist. And in these images, its feathered inhabitants, sometimes generously revealing their exquisite beauty to us and sometimes seeking freedom in the vast horizon of the lake, where its waters mingle with the imposing mountain ranges of Rodopi. As the seasons pass, Vistonida and Porto Lagos are transformed into a world of unparalleled beauty, where life flutters in the glades of the reeds or on the vast surface of the water.

Thanks to:

– Vassilis Terzis, the head of the Vistonida Information Centre, environmental guide, for the long tour of the wetland and his valuable information.

– The owners of the hotel “PORTO VISTONIS” Thanasis and Yannis Arapis for their willing hospitality.

– The forester-ornithologist Maria Panagiotopoulou for her useful information and the valuable material she put at our disposal.

– The Hellenic Ornithological Society for the bibliography made available to us and especially George Yfantis for supporting the article.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

• Χ. H. Diamantis, “THRAKI Cultural Guide”, ETVA – EOT – EOMMEX, 1989.
• THRAKI, Region of Eastern Macedonia and Thrace, 1994.
• Goulandris Museum of Natural History EKBY, “HELLENIC WATERS”, ed. “The Greek Geological Survey of Greece”, ed. Bank, ATHENS 1996.
• Hellenic Ornithological Society, “Important Areas for the Birds of Greece”, 1994.
• YPEXODE, “Programme for addressing Special Environmental Problems and System of Operation and Management of the Protected Area of the Nestos Delta, the Complex of Lakes Vistonida and Ismarida and the Wider Area”, VOLUME 1, NOEM. 1996.
• Panagiotopoulou, S. Bourdakis, “Report on the Projects in the National Park of Eastern Macedonia and Thrace and their Impact on the Bird Fauna: Lake Vistonida”, World Wide Fund for Nature, Hellenic Ornithological Society, Prespes Conservation Society, FEBR. 1996.
• Papanagiotopoulou, “Experiments in Limnology”, OIONOS magazine, issue 4, 1997.
• Panagiotopoulou, “National Park of Eastern Macedonia and Thrace: a landscape of ecological and cultural diversity”, OIKO-TOPIA magazine, issue 14, 1999.

DISTANCES TO PORTO LAGOS

From Thessaloniki: 239 km.

From Xanthi: 24 km.