My first visual contact – a few years ago – with Stymphalia was almost disappointing. It was a three-day Easter Monday weekend. After a long journey from Thessaloniki, I had found myself along with hundreds of other drivers – the vast majority of them Athenians – crawling along the narrow uphill road above Kiato, only to end up exhausted on the plateau of Stymphalia, which was already choked with countless cars. The fleeting image I had left of the lake on that first torturous crossing of the northern side of the long-constricted valley was some small stretches of water surface, interspersed between the vast reed fields. Was this then the famous Stymphalia, the lake of myths and legends?

The year after next, the road took me back to Stymphalia, this time going uphill from the plain of Nemea. It’s a warm autumn morning, a calm and peaceful day of the week.

I drive slowly, almost alone, along the south side of the lake. Every now and then I stop to admire the flight of a bird, the velvety pale yellow surface of the reeds, the reflections of Kyllini in the still waters, the picturesque presence of a fisherman with his rod on the shore. I get off the road and wander for some time along the dirt lakeside path. However, time is pressing on me. The essential acquaintance with the region of Stymphalia, its natural environment, its ancient past, its settlements and its people, are postponed until next time…

Winter 2004. It’s time to spend a little more time in mountainous Corinthia, to stop passing through this beautiful place of Greece as travellers. Our first stop was Stymphalia.

NIGHT AMONG THE FIR TREES

If for Athenians – and southerners in general – mountainous Corinthia may mean a simple one-day excursion, for someone living in the north of the country, it is a long and tedious journey. However, for an idealistic traveller, who, on starting out, ‘wishes the road were long’, the 600 km to Stymphalia is an exciting and attractive prospect. Macedonia, Thessaly, Sterea, Peloponnese. After so many years, the long-suffering ‘National Road’ is not about to end. Places pass before us, chiloid and familiar, like an endless line-up of friends old and dear, waving cheerfully as we pass them by. It is beautiful to pass now and then by familiar routes; there is more than just the unknown charm.

The setting sun finds us at the beginning of the Stymphalia plateau, with the village of Kaisari built high up on the hill. It is a weekday, the place is quiet, almost deserted. The cars that cross us on the main road network are few and belong exclusively to the locals. The little taverns in the villages along the roadside are closed at this time of day, the thrakes on the barbecues are off, the spits on them unmoving. A little later, as night approaches, the taverns and cafes come alive, the chimneys of the fireplaces begin to smoke again. Every now and then a local will show up, every now and then a passerby will stand to rest beside the lit logs and loose red wine. For us it is still early, the night of January is long.

We slowly cross the winter valley. High in the north the snow-covered peaks of Ziria shine for a while still in the last light. In the plain and on the lake everything is submerged in shadow, the colours gradually darken, the volumes become indistinct, lose their shape, reeds, water, fields and vineyards are now a dark, indistinct surface.

At the settlement of Karteri the plain ends. Immediately afterwards the landscape changes dramatically. The lazy and mild expanses of Stymphalia give way to the steep foothills of Kyllini, the walnut, alder and poplar trees of the plain are replaced by the masculine and sharp-edged tops of the fir trees. The presence of the proud tree is now universal on the steep slopes, in the gorges, in every part of the terrain. High above our heads, scattered across this vast dark green dominion, the first lights of the Chestnut stand out.

The name of the village is initially strange to us. Is it possible to be called “Kastania”, surrounded by fir trees? However, if we look back into the history of the village and go back to the years of the Turkish occupation, we will find in the place of the present fir trees, the vast and famous Kastania Forest of Kastania. As the Kastanian teacher Konstantinos Karamitsos says in his book “The Fertile Kastania”: “In those years, the main occupation of the inhabitants of Kastania was the cultivation and gathering of the fruits from the Kastanodasos, which then covered the entire north and east side of the village, extending to the outskirts of the neighbouring village of Basi (today Drosopigi), the peaks of Zireia and the mountain above our village called Trikorfo.

The right to exploit this forest was the greatest privilege of the time for the Kastanians. It was from this forest that our village got its name Kastania. For the fruits of this forest we must emphasize that according to the testimonies of tradition that have reached our days, they were of excellent quality. They were the largest in size of all the chestnuts available on the market at the time and were also famous for their taste.

It was mainly due to this forest that the inhabitants of the village were economically well-off and were able to claim large areas of agricultural land in the area now occupied by the lake. In addition, the inhabitants were able to exchange chestnuts for a variety of other products which they themselves lacked’.

After Ibrahim’s raid, the forest was burnt down in addition to the houses in the village. Despite all the repeated efforts of the inhabitants of Kastania, it was never possible to revive the legendary Kastanodas. Thus, after 1870, the gradual decline of Kastania began and the migration of its inhabitants abroad, to Athens and other lowland settlements of Stymphalia. Today there are very few permanent residents of the village, most of them live in Karteri, which is still a settlement of Kastania. A sign appears in the car’s headlights just above Karteri, warning of continuous bends for 1 km.

– Oh well, comments Anna cheerfully, we’ve arrived!

The road between the fir trees rises uphill with closed successive bends, the kilometre ends and after a while a new sign, identical to the first one, appears.

Anna’s new optimistic prediction and a new refutation of her hopes of finishing the journey. The same always sadistic sign appears – beyond any reasonable explanation – at least three more times, until at the end it loses all credibility. Was it really so difficult to have an initial sign with the total distance of consecutive turns?

Eventually the lies end, we are welcomed by Kastania, an almost deserted village, sparsely built, with barely lit houses, two or three chimneys with smoke and only one tavern open out of the three.

-A typical winter picture of everyday life in the Greek periphery, living far from the big urban centres, I tell Anna.

Mountainous Corinthia could not be an exception. However, bear with me until the weekend. The sight you’ll see will be incredible.

We cross the whole long distance that separates the first from the last houses of the amphitheatre village and we find ourselves once again in total solitude, in the dark forest of fir trees. A heavy, overcast sky, without stars or moon, gives the mountain landscape a wild beauty, making our journey seem like a secret mission in the night.

-Are you sure there is life up here at this hour? asks Anna, slightly worried.

About a kilometre past the last houses in the village, the wind suddenly picks up noticeably. We are at the famous neck of Kastania, the highest point of our route, which immediately descends northwest towards the famous Plateau of Feneos. A sign – much more optimistic and reliable than the previous ones – shows us on the right the direction to “Xenia”, the coveted point of our destination. Within minutes, the dark night is illuminated by the pale light of the PPC lamps. Thick smoke swirls in the sky and immediately afterwards the parking lot and the roofs of the hotel appear in the vastness of the fir trees. Built at an altitude of exactly 1:70 meters, the Xenia of Kastania is perhaps the most mountainous of the legendary chain of homonymous accommodations, which for many years were the spearhead of Greek tourism, in some of the most famous parts of the country. Mismanagement, a public-spirited mentality and indifference were some of the causes that pushed most of these – once healthy – units into decline and decay. With the fruitful intervention, in recent years, of private initiatives, the negative climate has been largely reversed and many of the hostels have resumed offering their quality services.

The upgrading of this particular unit is visible from our first steps inside. A stately sized reception hall embraces us with a diffused, pleasant warmth and gives us a wonderful warmth after the chilly air at this high altitude. This feeling is made even nicer by the huge, hewn stone fireplace with its lit logs.

After the long journey and so many varied performances on the 600 kilometres of the route, what we feel we are missing at this – even at night – is a hot coffee. Mrs. Fanny prepares it for us with great willingness. We enjoy it slowly, next to the flames of the fireplace. Another couple arrives in the cold January night. They too only want a hot coffee.

The night goes on, however, on weekdays there is no dining option at the hotel. If we want to catch the tavern in Kastania open, we have to hurry. Fortunately the “Steki”, on the main road that crosses the village, still has its fireplace and lights on. All the products are local, the meat, the potatoes, the wonderful cheese. The bulk red wine is also local.

-Is there any bottled Agiorgitiko Nemea?

He looks at me with a puzzled expression, as if I had asked him for French champagne.

-Here in our area we serve law local bulk red wine. If we have such fine wine of our own, what should we do with bottled wine? Besides, it’s much cheaper and customers like it.

In the following days – or rather nights – we would have the opportunity to find out beyond doubt the accuracy of his reasons. in none of the taverns of Stymphalia – at least of those we managed to visit – we could not find any other wine, except the local bulk red wine with its characteristic and almost stereotypical taste and the various colour tones of rosé. One evening, in the tavern of some settlement, I ask the tavern keeper:

-What if I don’t like your wine?

“Well, then drink beer,” he replies good-naturedly.

Regardless of the quality and taste of the specific wines – whose evaluation is certainly subject to a certain extent to personal criteria – many times we nostalgically recall the tavern “Thomas”, of our friend Nikos Paspalis in Sklithro, Florina. This, however, does not prevent our friend from hosting more than 300 (!!!) different brands of fine wines in his cellar, from every possible and unlikely region and winery in Greece. We, however, half-drunk on the benign local red wine, travel the three deserted mountainous kilometers to the warm shelter of Xenia. I step out briefly onto the balcony of our room. The clouds have dissipated; between the dark contours of the fir trees, bits of clear, clear sky loom. The cold, however, is strong. The icy north wind shakes hard against the bare branches of the cherry tree that reaches up to our balcony. This sound of the wind-blown branches is the only one that can be heard at night.

WANDERING IN STYMPHALIA

To wake up early at 1170 meters we don’t need an alarm clock. Besides, our impatience to get to the land of Stymphalia as soon as possible is much stronger than the lure of our warm bed.

Among the intricate branches of the fir trees outside the balcony of our room, we barely catch the sun rising behind the clouds at the last moment. Soon afterwards it disappears, but its reddish glow accompanies us for some time during our first coffee.

We descend towards Kastania with a cold and strong wind, pushing the clouds with a rush, revealing the sun and large patches of blue sky from time to time.

No one is walking around at this hour in Kastania. Only a few smoking chimneys testify to the presence of people in the village. We run across the entire north side of the lake, which in the breezes reminds us of a troubled sea. We pass by the settlements of Kionia and Stymphalia and end up in Kalliani, the capital of the municipality.

The Mayor, Konstantinos Leggos, although not prepared for our arrival, willingly makes much of his time available to give us as much information as possible about the territory of his municipality.

From Kalliani and the Mayor’s office we ascend to the settlement of Kyllini. Built at the foot of the mountain of the same name and with an altitude of 1050 meters at the square, Kyllini is one of the most mountainous villages of Corinthia. The jewel of the square is the imposing stone-built fountain, from whose two mouths flows unceasingly icy water from the mountain. On the marble plaque we read: HERE THE IMMORTAL WATER, CRYSTAL CLEAR AND COOL, GIVES HEALTH AND LIFE TO ANYONE WHO BENDS DOWN AND DRINKS.

Apart from the fountain, the square is adorned with some large fir trees, a modest Memorial to the Fallen, and the bronze bust of Bishop of Avydos and University Professor Gerasimos Papadopoulos, the so-called “Wise Abbot of America”, who was born in Bouzi (Kyllini) on 10/10/1910 and died in Boston, USA on 12/6/1995. A few meters above the fountain stands a nice stone house, unfortunately uninhabited.

At the café in the square I ask two village women about the water mill and the water mills. Following their instructions, we climb uphill to the W-SW and, in less than 1.5 km of a deep dirt road, we find ourselves in a beautiful location overgrown with walnut, holly, pine and cypress trees. Here, beside a gully with abundant water and a view of the entire plain of Stymphalia, we discover the water mill and the two watermills, silent and calm remnants of an era and a tradition that have ceased to exist.

The road continues uphill towards the snowy slopes of Kyllini. We decide to follow it. The road surface is stony but with good passability. A little further up we encounter an unexpected obstacle. In the middle of the road a sympathetic little village man is trying to reload on his donkey’s saddle the load of wood that has been scattered on the ground and is blocking our path; at the unexpected sight of the car in this wilderness he immediately stops his hitherto calm movements and is seized with anxiety to free our passage as quickly as possible.

-Calm down man, I say to him, getting down from the car, we are in no hurry.

Despite his protests I carry some wood and in a minute the road is open again. He thanks me in such a way, as if I had done something very important for him. We bid him farewell and continue on our way to the mountain. At every turn we gain altitude, the view of the Stymphalia plateau and the opposite peaks of Oligirtos becomes more and more impressive. But the road surface starts to deteriorate, the deep water holes make the route hardly friendly for conventional cars. About four kilometres above the village the road forks. At the left junction heading west the road surface is covered by a thick layer of snow. So we continue uphill to the north but six kilometres above the village we are faced with thick, half-melted snow with a muddy substrate. We overcome it with slow four-wheel drive, but already even more difficult spots appear in front of us. We are already at an altitude of 1450 meters and we have no room for adventures. The wind is blowing hard, the cold is piercing, we decide to return to more temperate climates.

From Kalliani we cross the plain in a southeastern direction towards Psari. Almost halfway along the route, we come across a small river with quite a flow, which ends up in the lake. The original bridge was iron, but a concrete bridge has been built over it later. On its extension, a small stone arch can be seen in the grass, obviously a remnant of the old, traditional bridge. As we cross the bridge, an old lady on the road with a donkey beckons us with her hand to stop.

-Come help me a little, my little child, to climb the saddle, for it is a long walk to Psari (eng. translation: Fish).

I begin to wonder how I can help her, but the experienced little lady knows the way.

-You hold the animal still, here in the low place, by the side of the road, and I’ll jump into the saddle.

We drive the donkey down the road, I immobilize it in the most favorable position possible, weigh the old lady for a few seconds, and then, with a remarkable gallop, she is perched on the saddle. Anna applauds enthusiastically, Aunt – Helen Kyriakopoulou fills us with thanks, waves her hand cheerfully and starts her slow march to Psari. After a while the road leaves the plain and winds uphill. I think, this part of the route would be too tiring for Aunt Helen’s legs. As we ascend the view of the plain becomes panoramic. Across to the northwest loom the Kalliani and, higher still, the snow-covered ridge of Kyllini, a solid mass blocking the horizon. The bends and uphill stretches of the road create a sweet terrain, with gentle gullies and soft hillsides, wonderfully cultivated with vineyards. A little further up, at the height of the neck of the hill, there is an impressive complex of huge vertical rocks of reddish colour, which brings to mind the famous Thessalian Meteora. Unfortunately, with the curve of the sun’s trajectory during the winter season, the rocks are permanently submerged in shadow.

As we start to descend towards Argolida, Psari stretches a little lower. The large village is built amphitheatrically on an extensive gentle slope, with excellent orientation almost all day long. The traffic, even in winter, is visibly and definitely much livelier than that of Kastania and Kyllini. The houses in the village are well-kept, some of them even retaining their traditional architecture. The centre of the village is dominated by the beautiful stone-built church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, with its imposing built-in bell tower, famous for its elaborate construction throughout Stymphalia. In the centre there is also the smaller church of Agios Georgios, with its magnificent old bell tower, a true work of art.

With its vitality, Psari seems to have been little affected by the trend of urbanization and emigration, or – at least – much less than other settlements in Stymphalia. Its inhabitants are as a rule engaged in viticulture, which is immediately apparent from the picture of the extensive, magnificent vineyards covering the hillsides and plains around the village. These vineyards, with a total area of 1500 hectares, produce mainly the famous variety of wine grape Agiorgitiko, with a yield per hectare that exceeds one ton of grapes per hectare, while maintaining the excellent quality.

We ask Vassilis Lykargyris, who is in charge of our tour.

-According to one version, to the strange shape of the hill in the west of the village, which resembles a fish. But it may come from the word “Ypsarion”, meaning hill or hill.

After our tour of the urban environment of the settlement, Vassilis leads us 3.5 km outside the village, to the west. Here, at the top of a hill, next to an ancient purnari, is the chapel of Agioi Theodoroi, renovated in 1968 but built on the site of an old monastery that existed during the years of Turkish occupation. The location is wonderful, the hill dominates a sweet valley, with gentle hillsides overgrown with vineyards, while the plain of Argolida stretches to the south.

Vassilis’s mother serves us coffee in the sunny courtyard, while his wife gives us a four-litre pot filled with red wine from Vassilis’ vineyards.

Very close to Psari, to the northeast, is the second large vineyard village of the region, Asprokampos. Built at the NW foot of the steep “Gavrias” hill, Asprokambos is a lively village, dominating the entire vineyard-clad plain. A few hundred meters outside the village operates the vineyard and wine-making unit OKTANA S.A., the only one in Stymphalia. It was founded in 1998 by the well known wineries “Katogi Averoff”, “Strofilia”, “Antonopoulos Vineyards” and the wine distribution company “Santa Maura”. The modern winery of the unit, with a capacity of 1000 tons, uses the Agiorgitiko grapes from the vineyards of Psari and Asprokampos. These vineyards, developed at altitudes of 700-800 metres, are the most mountainous in the NEMEA O.P.A.P. zone.

Leaving the centre of the village, we quickly come across a dirt road that climbs up the hill of Gavrias. As the hill rises to a considerable height above Asprokampos, it is bound to offer a panoramic view from the top.

The second important reason that motivates us for this climb is the reference in some publications to the existence of “two medieval fortresses, overlooking the villages of the Municipality of Nemea, the area of Skotini and Kandilas and the magnificent valley of Stymphalia”.

At first the road is passable and passable by conventional cars, but later it becomes rough, with many stones and water holes. The soil is limestone and the main vegetation is holly. As we climb and our orientation changes, the view widens to the east and south, to the plains of Nemea and Argolida.

Five and a half kilometres from Asprokampos we reach the top of the hill, at an altitude of 1275 metres. Braving the terrible wind, we search for a long time in the area of the summit, around the antenna and the two mirrors, for some traces of fortifications or fortifications that remind us of “medieval fortresses”. A futile effort. So we settle for the truly spectacular view and return disappointed, with serious doubts about our observational skills.

Down in the village we meet Christos Bizios, President of the Asprokampos Municipal District. He has neither seen , nor has he ever heard anything about medieval fortresses on the hill of Gavrias. Some of his neighbours and the priest agree on this. Only one elderly man mentions, very generally and vaguely, some old traces of dry stone, which in no way can be considered “medieval fortresses”. Our questions therefore remain unanswered.

Dusk finds us on the south side of the lake, its surface disturbed by a strong gust of wind. The sun sets behind the snow-capped peaks of Oligirtus, seeking an alternate passage through the heavy clouds. Now and then the clouds thin out and then some rays penetrate between them, creating powerful beams of light, huge spotlights of nature with an unparalleled beauty. Until the last light we remain in our seats, fascinated by this spectacle. Then we slowly take the deserted straights of the plain towards Lavka.

A FASCINATING JOURNEY TO LYKA

Built in the fir-covered bosom of Oligirtos, at the southwestern edge of the territory of the municipality of Stymphalia, Lavka looks like a vista overlooking the whole plateau to the northeast.

This NE direction is the only one that provides a wide view of the village, since the rest of the horizon is blocked by the mountains Oligirtos, Skiathis (Parnia) and Gerontium (Mavrovouni).

As we enter the village for the first time, Lavka gives us the feeling of a topographically… divided settlement. Responsible for this is the torrent of Lavka that cuts the village in two.

The shaping of its enclosure, i.e. the construction of the supporting walls of its bed, began in the mid-50s and was completed in 1971 with state funds and with the personal work of the villagers.

The bed of the stream is wide and deep and, as the village is built on both banks, communication between the two parts of the stream is by means of wide concrete bridges. In the past, the crossing was made possible by wooden bridges, roughly constructed with logs and branches of fir trees, which did not provide the required safety.

In 1928, the permanent bridges began to be built, the two most important ones, the “Church” and the “Lontos” bridges, were built with community money and contributions from Lafkians in America and Athens.

With George Rigopoulos as our guide, who amazes us with his inexhaustible knowledge about his place and the entire region of Stymphalia, we attempt to discover the peculiarities of Lavka. Our first stop is the imposing church of Agios Athanasios in the centre of the village. It is a basilica style church, built with chipped stone in 1889 at the expense of the community of Lavka.

Very close to the church, on the concrete bridge over the torrent, a beautiful stone-built fountain quenches our thirst, with a constant flow of cool water from the mountain. We begin to climb up the left bank of the torrent, which even at this midday hour is still mired in shadow, unlike the left side which is sunny. This fact has a catalytic effect on the temperature difference observed in the two parts of the village. In the shady SE part the chill is pervasive, some parts of the road still retain traces of the morning dew. In the opposite NW section it is a different season, people walk around in their shirts.

Observing Lavka at first from a distance, it was impossible to suspect its residential identity. But as we start to walk around the settlement, all the more frequent examples of the architectural characteristics of the place are revealed to us, houses, old stone-built, with red earth or lime, with traditional tiled roofs, ground floor or with an upper floor. When the building was ground floor, it was divided into two parts by a wooden structure, the ‘mesantra’. The family lived in one section, while the other section was used for animal stabling and storage. In those houses that had an upper floor, this was used for the family’s residence, while the ground floor, the “κατώγι”, was used for animal stabling and storage. In both types of houses, the proximity of animals had an adverse effect on the health of the occupants.

The first old house encountered is an unoccupied ground floor, built in 1922, as the stone relief above the lintel indicates. A little further up we find several early 20th century buildings, all abandoned. We are struck by a house from 1907 with magnificent masonry and chiseled angles on the corners and windows.

We complete the ascent in the shady and cold part of the village and with great pleasure we pass into the sunny and warm part. Here too there are several old houses, some of which have architectural elements of great merit. We come to the large house of Anagnostis Economopoulos, who had been initiated into the Society of Friends. With the date 1843 engraved on a gnoniolite, the mansion is probably the oldest in the village.

From the road we pass the terrible mess of the courtyard and then enter the interior; desolation and abandonment, the ravages of time are evident everywhere, in the very worn wooden floor, the large half-hanging fireplace, the ceiling and the walls. Some modern concrete interventions, necessary perhaps for structural reasons, contrast starkly with the permanently lost glamour of the old mansion.

Optimism and smiles return when George Rigopoulos leads us to the Folklore Museum of Lavka “Georgios Milios”. The Museum is housed in a wonderful stone-built house in a prominent position in the centre of the village, which used to house the Justice of the Peace Court of Stymphalia.

The house was donated in 1986 by the Miliou family in memory of George Miliou, to serve as a museum.

The response of the residents of Lavka was immediate and decisive in enriching the Museum with an amazing variety of ancient and rare objects, which vividly depict the daily habits and way of life of the people of past generations, who have been lost forever.

Perfectly displayed – in the already very small space of the museum – we can see, among other things, oil and oil lamps, lampstands, gas cylinders and chimneys, charcoal irons, a 1918 lighter with a wick, many wooden and bronze utensils, old bells, old loom with its tools, blacksmith’s products, old saws, ploughing tools, clay pots, cobbler’s tools, old photographs, traditional Lakiotian women’s costume and many other things.

Some other exhibits of the museum are also extremely interesting, not folklore but archaeological. It is in fact a collection of ancient findings from the wider area of Lavka, such as clay edalia, Corinthian, Attic and Byzantine shells, votive vessels, double axes, seal bases, bronze jewellery, clay lamps and many other ancient findings.

-I suggest, however, that we take a walk outside of Lavka, says George, to the hill that used to be called “Hood-Kaloit” (Hill of Good). There we will see the remains of the fortification wall of ancient Orexion.

About 500 meters northeast of Lavka, above the new road network, dominates the hill with the chapel of the Holy Trinity, which provides a beautiful view of Lavka, the surrounding mountains and the Stymphalia plateau. In small cultivated areas at the foot of the hill, parts of the ancient wall can be seen, surrounded by purnaria, with boulders in excellent condition. The site is strewn with abundant pieces of pottery, which are so small that they are of no interest.

Suddenly George lets out a cry of excitement. We rush over to him and notice in his palm a ceramic cone about 5 cm high, perfectly symmetrical and in perfect state of preservation.

-It is an ancient agnitha, says George proudly. I will carefully clean it from the soil and add it to the archaeological collection of our museum.

About 300 meters west of the hillock of the Holy Trinity we reach a higher hillock. Opening a passage through rough terrain and wild holly, we discover a new section of the wall, literally unseen in the dense vegetation. It is built with the same mighty clay masonry of large boulders, with no trace of mortar, of course.

The delicate scent of thyme wafts all around, a perfect blend with the aura of this ancient and little-known place of Stymphalia.

We couldn’t leave Lavka without finding ourselves, even for a moment, in the life-giving atmosphere of the fir-covered slopes of Oligirtos. From the “Fountain of Krothe”, a few hundred meters before Lavka, we follow the very good forest road in SE direction and after a while we lose contact with the plain, we penetrate into the shaded ravine of Lykorrema.

Climbing continuously on a wonderful road, we suddenly face, among the fir trees, the lightly snow-covered rocky cliff of Oligirtos. A little further up we reach the pass of Kandilas and at the crossroads we turn right in a north-western direction. The stone-built chapel of Agios Ioannos looms before us, on the right of the road. At the highest point of the route, at an altitude of 1450 metres, the view is panoramic through the fir trees.

The cold is piercing, in the shady parts of the road the snow-covered road surface is icy. With the winter conditions prevailing, the road is already unsuitable for conventional cars.

We start to descend with steep bends and with a wonderful view of the whole of Stymphalia. At some point, at an altitude of 1150 m, we find ourselves in an idyllic clearing. Here, among the fir trees, is the magnificent chapel of Agia Sotiras. From the stone fountain in front of it flows crystal clear water.

It is time to stop the rhythm for a while and enjoy the winter sunny day in this enchanting environment of Oligirtos…

We descend again with steep bends and very rough roads. We are accompanied by the wooden kiosks of the Forestry Office of Corinth and the dense and very elegant signs marking the path from Lavka. Four kilometres after Agia Sotira and about twenty kilometres from the beginning of our route, the first houses of the village appear.

STYMPHALIA LAKE

“And on the water in Stymphalia there is a reason for the hens to feed on the water, when the man-eaters are feeding on it”, Hercules is said to be the one to kill the hens”. (1)

(There is a story about the waters of Stymphalos that says that man-eating birds lived there, which Hercules killed with his bow).

This, among other things, is what the famous traveller Pausanias reported in the 2nd century AD about Stymphalia. And he goes on: “But Pisander of Camerea does not admit that Hercules killed the birds, but says that he himself drove them out of the area by making noise with rattles. Among the other beasts of the Arabian country are the so-called Stymphalid hens, which are as dangerous to man as lions and leopards. They pounce on anyone who chases them, wound him with their beaks and kill him. They can penetrate copper or iron, but if one wears clothes woven with thick phloem thread, their beaks cling to them, as the feathers of small birds cling to the ibis. These birds are the size of cranes but resemble ibises, except that they have stronger beaks and not beaks that are hooked like ibises…

The Arabs must have originally called them something else and not Stymphalides, but the fame of Hercules and the prestige of Greece among the barbarians gave these birds of the Arabian desert the name Stymphalides”.

And Pausanias continues: “The Stymphalides have a spring from which the Emperor Hadrian (in 138 AD) brought water to the city of Corinth (with the Hadrianic aqueduct). In winter this spring forms a small lake from which the river Stymphalos flows, but in summer no lake is formed and the river flows directly from the spring. This river disappears in a chasm of land and reappears in Argolida, where instead of Stymphalos it is called Erasino … It is said, that in my days a miracle happened. In Stymphalo they celebrated a feast in honor of Stymphalia Artemis without interest, neglecting most of the ritual required by tradition. Then a pile of wood was caught in the riverbed at the point where the river becomes underground, blocking the downward flow of water. It is said that a lake was then created in the valley with an area of four hundred stages. It is also said that when a hunter was chasing a deer, it jumped into the swamp and the hunter angrily swam after the deer. Deer and hunter fell into the bog and the river water followed them, and as a result the plain of Stymphalia was drained within a day. Since then, they have celebrated the feast of Artemis with greater splendour”. The Forester of Corinth, Forester – Environmentalist Panagiotis A. Kalliris points out that regardless of the beautiful myth, it is almost certain that a real situation is described. Human interventions or geological phenomena or both closed the sinkhole from which the water was leaving and a lake was formed. And in the same way the sinkhole opened and the water was withdrawn. So we have reference to the existence of a characteristic wetland area. That’s exactly how it is. Mythology is not just a beautiful fairy tale. It is a reference to facts painted through the passage of time in very faint colours. The region’s place culturally and historically is highlighted by the well-known feat of the mythical hero Hercules. Geographically it covers the area of the municipality of Stymphalia, which bears its name in honour and consists of the ten settlements of Kaisari, Kefalari, Kalliani, Kalliani, Kyllini, Stymphalia, Drosopigi, Lavka, Kastania, Psari and Asprokampos.

The area of the municipality is located in the southwestern highlands of the prefecture of Corinthia. Good neighbours to the south is the area “Kandylas” of the region of Arcadia. To the east the area of “Skotini” of Argolida and the villages of the Municipality of Nemea. To the north the mountain villages of the Municipality of Sikyonia and Xylokastro, and to the west the mountain villages of the Feneos plateau.

Physiographically the area is enclosed by the mountain ranges of Zireia or Kyllini to the north-west and Oligirtos, known from history as the ‘Apelairo Mountain’ to the south-west. Between these two mountain ranges is the Stymphalia Lake basin, a closed, elongated plateau with an altitude of 600 metres at the bottom. Northeast of Stymphalia the Pellini catchment area has been formed. It is a triangular plateau, smaller in area than that of Stymphalia and with an altitude of 740 m at the bottom. This is where the Lake of Pellini used to be formed, which was artificially drained at the end of the 18th century.

The total area of the area is estimated at 187 800 hectares, while the areas covered by the waters of the lake range from 7,700 hectares in spring to 3,500 hectares at the end of summer. Sometimes the lake dries up completely, such as in 1978 and 1990.

Within the wider limestone massif of the northern Peloponnese, the area of Stymphalia, like that of Feneos, is a mountainous closed basin of karstic form, a tectonic depression whose origin is linked to more recent tectonic movements in the area. The progressive accumulation of fine-grained material at the bottom of the depression acted as a sealing material, resulting in the creation of the lake.

The lake is fed with water from the surface runoff of its catchment area and from springs in the ‘Velatsuri’ area. At the ‘Siouri’ location, a trench called ‘Vochaic bead’ or ‘Vochaic groove’ is visible and characteristic. It is a ditch built on the NE side of Lake Stymphalia and collects the waters from the springs of the village of Stymphalia, the valley of Pellini, the waters of the springs of Kefalari and the waters of the springs of Kyllini. All this water wealth is channelled into the tunnel of the Adrianian aqueduct at the ‘Siouri’ site and then flows to the areas of Skotini and Platani on the Nemea plateau and, via the Asopos river, to the fertile plain of Vocha.

The ‘Siouri’ site is located on the south side of the lake, very close to the asphalt junction leading to the area of Skotini in Argolida. A short dirt road, under some old farmers’ houses, leads to the mouth of the tunnel of the Adrian Aqueduct. The width of the tunnel is about 2 metres, the interior is stone-built and its height can comfortably accommodate a standing person. The water rushes into the tunnel and the volume of water is impressive, approaching 42 million cubic metres per year.

The Adrianion Aqueduct was a huge project for its time, both in conception and in construction, since, after a total distance of about 85 kilometres, it supplied water to the ancient city of Corinth.

Already since the beginning of the 19th century, a part of it has been carrying water for the irrigation of lowland Corinthia. At the end of the 19th century, a grand plan was drawn up to supply Athens with water from Stymphalia. However, at some point in time, Lake Stymphalia became the subject of serious controversy. Thus, at the end of the 19th century, the local inhabitants took the decision to drain the lake in order to expand their arable land. This, of course, was met with fierce opposition from the inhabitants of lowland Corinthia, who would thus lose a valuable water reservoir.

The conflict between these two population groups with opposing interests lasted for many years, the issue reached the Parliament and went down in history as the ‘Stymphalian issue’. Today, of course, the inhabitants of the area have generally changed their views, since they consider the lake vital both for the irrigation of their crops and for attracting visitors and developing tourism.

Besides, Lake Stymphalia is of great ecological importance, as it is the most important mountain wetland in Corinth and the Peloponnese and the most mountainous mountain wetland in the Balkans. Because of this location, it is an important migratory stopover for migratory birds on their route between Europe and North Africa.

The wetland of Stymphalia is included in the “Network of Important Bird Areas of Greece” (NABA) and has been proposed for inclusion in category A of the European Ecological Network “NATURA 2000” (NATURA 2000), provided for by the Community Directive 92/43.

Despite the impression, however, that the lake is a continuation of the era of Hercules and the Stymphalid quail, the reality is quite different. Lake Stymphalia in its present form was created at the end of the 19th century by a confluence of events, when the opening of the Paparrigopoulos tunnel at Lagovouni coincided with the unfortunate blocking of the sinkhole at Lavka. Previously, in the centre of the Stymphalia basin, there was not the lake in its present form but a marshy area surrounding the Stymphalos River in the middle of the plateau. What is certain is that today Lake Stymphalia is facing serious problems in terms of its preservation as a wetland, the most important being the rapid expansion of the reed beds, the reduction in the depth of the lake due to siltation on the bottom and the appearance of the phenomenon of overfeeding, also known as ‘red mud’ or ‘water bloom’. The combination of these three phenomena causes a kind of ‘natural drying’ of the lake, which is in danger of becoming a swamp. The reedbeds are of course a completely natural and essential component of the wetland. In Lake Stymphalia, however, there is an excessive, constant and rapid spreading of reeds, with the result that the free water surface is dramatically reduced and the risk of the lake turning into a marsh is visible. The data obtained from measurements taken over the last 50 years are as revealing as they are optimistic. Thus, whereas in 1945 the area of reedbeds was 1 284 hectares and covered 34 % of the surface of the lake, in 1996 the reedbeds had expanded to 2 434 hectares, covering 64 % of the surface of the lake. If future reedbed expansion continues at the same rate (22.5 acres per year), then mathematically the lake will be completely covered by reedbeds in the next 60 years.

Of course, the factors that mainly favour the expansion of the reed beds are the reduction in the depth of the lake due to the recharge and the biochemical phenomenon of eutrophication, which is due to the intensive chemical cultivation of the lakeside areas. The Greek Biotope and Wetland Centre, the Department of Ecology of the University of Patras and the Institute of Inland Waters of the National Marine Research Centre have already dealt with this issue, but so far no specific actions have been taken to mitigate the phenomenon. Therefore, the need for the adoption and implementation of scientific methods to prevent the disappearance of the Stymphalia wetland is urgent and urgent. A wetland, which is considered the most ideal area in the Peloponnese for waterfowl nesting.

In addition to being a migration station, Stymphalia is the only breeding site in the Peloponnese for the Skoufovoutitichtaara and Porphyrochiknia. The colony of Nanovoutikhtara, as well as the colonies of Mikrotchiknia and Baliza are the most important in southern Greece. In addition, the lake is an ideal habitat for the Vultopapa’s warbler.

Three species of terns nest in the lake. The Black-tailed Godwit in the dry treeless areas, the Red-tailed Godwit on the southern treed shore and the Thumann’s Godwit higher up in the dense and impenetrable bushes. The simultaneous occurrence of species so closely related to each other is a rare phenomenon, indicative of the richness and diversity of the region’s habitats. The lake is also a nesting site for the predators Wasp and Snake Eagle, as well as for the Reed-billed Eagle, a predator of reeds. The surrounding Ziria and Oligirtos Mountains are home to the Golden Eagle, the largest predator in Greece. Besides, the top of Oligirtos is called ‘Skipiza’, which means ‘the eagle’s nest’. However, two other predators that used to live in the mountains of the region, the Vulture and the Egyptian Vulture, have disappeared since 1940.

Other migratory birds pass through Stymphalia in autumn and spring, while others stay and winter in the cold winter months. During the months of migration, all species of herons are seen in small numbers, while large numbers of reed buntings and woodcocks, which are endangered species, are seen in large numbers. Other endangered species are the Yellow-headed and Black-headed Glareola, while in 1987 a Goldfinch was observed for the first time in the Peloponnese.

In winter the lake hosts several thousand Balises as well as smaller numbers of ducks, while the sightings of the sea eagle are unique in the Peloponnese.

We could mention a lot about the 118 species of birds that have been observed in Stymphalia. An event of great importance for the protection of the birdlife of the area was the Prohibitory Ordinance on Hira issued in 1996 and the establishment in February 2003 for the first time of the Stymphalia Wildlife Refuge.

In our continuous tours of the lake, apart from the Falarids and Ducks, we have the daily pleasure of encountering a pair of Cinderellas on the southern shores. The elegant silhouettes of the towering herons are silhouetted with incredible beauty above the flat ground surface. Unfortunately, any attempt to photograph them is futile, even from a great distance. Clearly, the birds are frightened. Despite the long-standing ban on hunting, they may still retain in their memories the “war conditions” that prevailed in the area just a few decades ago, when thousands of ducks were killed by hunters every year.

To conclude our report on the fauna of the area, we note the existence of various species of wild mammals such as the fox, jackal, hare, weasel, skunk, badger, hedgehog and mynah beaver. The wild boar and the deer disappeared at the beginning of the 20th century, with the exception of a herd of wild boars that appeared in the area in 1997.

The lynx, this magnificent feline, and the wolf were last seen in Stymphalia in the middle of the 20th century.

The fish fauna of the lake consists mainly of the carp, which is an introduced species, the Cephalus, and the Cephalus stymfalicus (Cpsendophoxinus stymfalicus stymfalicus). The Cephalus is only 6 cm long and is found in springs with clean water, such as the Velatsouri spring.

It was formerly considered endemic to Stymfalia, hence the adoption of the term ‘Stymfhalicus’ in its Latin name, but later it was also found in other areas of the southern Balkans. It belongs to the category of protected ‘vulnerable species’ and its presence in the lake is important as an indicator of water purity.

Of course, commercial fishing methods using nets are in contrast to the limited quantities of fish in the lake. For the conservation of the fish fauna and the general promotion of the concept of ecotourism, recreational fishing with rods might be more suitable.

Apart from its undoubted ecological importance, which is not immediately apparent to the eye, what impresses us from the very first moment in Stymphalia is the unique character of the landscape. Enclosed as the basin by mountains, it seems cut off from the rest of the world, giving the feeling of a lonely and independent place, which lives and moves in its own peaceful rhythms. It is a rare combination of wet element and reeds, meadows with pastures, flat farmland and vineyards, lakeside and mountain settlements, bare and forested peaks.

In moments of absolute calm, the gaze remains captive for a long time on the sparkling surface of the water, where the reflections of the sky and the peaks of Oligirtos and Zireia play with each other. But there are times when Stymphalia hides its idyllic aspect. It is those moments when it emerges from the mists that cover the plateau, when the surface of its waters is dark and turbulent and the reed beds are shaken by the strong winds. Then, more than ever, it brings to mind the age of mystery and legend, the mythical figure of Hercules, which looms faintly from distant antiquity.

Some two hundred years ago, in the summer of 1813, the archaeologist, painter and traveller, Baron Otto von Stackelberg, visited Stymphalia and described the experience of his visit in the following words:

‘Surrounded by ancient, remote mountain peaks, rising through green meadows and dark sycamore trees to reach high above the clouds, the mountain valley of Stymphalos in Arcadia stretches out, looking austere and mysterious from the frequent vapours of flood and destruction. From the springs that spring up there and from the shallow and narrow gully of Stymphalos, the waters swell inexplicably in winter, to the extent that they flood the whole plain. When they are drained and dry, the lake of Stymphalia is as clear and shining as a mirror, while the washed and levelled ground has already begun to turn green with grass, herbs and a thick layer of clover. Then, little by little, a hill rises out of the lake, where walls and the remains of houses that once formed the ancient fortress of Stymphalos stand out. In the depths of the water one can see, more and more clearly, fragments of columns, hewn marbles, altars, inscriptions, all sorts of ruins, sad testimonies to the past of a people of high civilisation of this famous state which, now submerged, extends to the bottom of the lake.

Leaving Greece in May 1814, Stackelberg writes in his diary: “It was imaginatively painful to me to be removed from this country, which made me deeply acquainted with and investigate its beauty. Every other place seemed to me colourless and dull. An inexpressible nostalgia drew me back to that country, full of the poetic soul of its people.

Following in Stuckelberg’s footsteps, we too wandered for a long time along the northern edges of the lake, where, from 1924 to 1930, the archaeologist Anastasios Orlandos excavated ancient Stymphalos, or Stymphilos, as Stymphalia was called in ancient times. And although the primeval location of the state is not yet known exactly today, what is certain is that the city of the Archaic and Classical period was built on an area to the right of the bank of the river Stymphalos, which has its source in the area of Drizas. The founder of this prehistoric city, which according to Homer also took part in the Trojan War, is Stymphalos, who can be considered its settler, since, for about three and a half thousand years, it still bears his name. Stymphalos was the son of Elatos and grandson of Arcada, who, according to mythology, was the son of Zeus. From his father he took the area named Stymphalos or Stymphilos and there was the spring, river, lake and town that took his name. This city he surrounded with a strong wall and adorned it with sanctuaries and other public buildings.

In his days, Stymphalia flourished and was one of the strongest cities of Arcadia.

From the height of the Acropolis at the position “Skala”, above the lake, we can look down over the entire area of the archaeological site, which has been systematically excavated every summer for about a decade by the Canadian archaeologist Hector Williams, Professor at the University of British Columbia, with his large team.

Then we let our footsteps lead us through the ancient streets and houses, the theatre with its stands carved into the limestone, the stone Hourglass, the ancient fountain that still springs incessantly and has been drawing crystal clear water from the depths of the Stymphalian earth for two and a half thousand years. Observing the ancient ruins alongside the acropolis, we try to guess how many more are hidden in the water or under the reeds and mud at the bottom. Perhaps we will never know. But we can imagine what a challenge it is, especially for archaeologists, to know with certainty that just a few metres from the shore of the lake there exists, unseen under the water, the continuation of the legendary polity of Stymphalos and the enigmatic archaeological wealth hidden in its ruins.

As we walk around the excavation site and take photographs, the temptation to stray from the confines of our trek and embark on a long and fascinating journey into the ahly of antiquity is strong. We think, however, that ancient Stymphalia would deserve not just a simple report but an exclusive and, as far as possible, complete tribute. This is perhaps the best reason to return to this beautiful place.

Northeast of the ancient city of Stymphalos, right next to the main road network, stand the impressive ruins of a church and a turreted pillar that once formed part of the complex of the monastery of the Cistercian monks of Zaraka. The ruins, which the locals call ‘buildings’, did not escape the attention of 19th century travellers, who called the whole valley and lake of Stymphalia ‘Zaraka’. The church, because of the many kionisks it preserved, was referred to by other travellers as ‘Kionia’, from which the neighbouring small settlement took its name.

The exact date of the foundation and construction of the monastic complex of Zaraka is not known, but historical evidence points to the beginning of the 13th century and even before 1236. Immediately after the fall of the Byzantine Empire by the Frankish knights of the 4th Crusade (1204), Pope Innocent III invited in 1205 the monastic orders of the West to settle in Greece in an attempt to convert the local population and the Byzantine clergy. The first to respond were the Cistercian monks, who during the first half of the 13th century founded 12 monasteries. In 1225, the Frankish prince Godefridus Villehardouin invited Cistercian monks to found a monastery in the Peloponnese, probably the abbey of Zaraka.

The first definite mention of the monastery was made on 23 December 1236 in a letter from Pope Gregory IX to the abbot of “Saraka” Peter.

Until 1260 the monastery was mentioned in the lists of the General Council of the Cistercian Order. However, with the fall of the Latin Empire of Constantinople in 1261, the Catholic monasteries in Greece were forced to close. It seems, therefore, that the monastery of Zaraka also functioned for less than fifty years.

But who were the Cistercian monks and why did they choose such an isolated Corinthian valley to build their monastery? The Cistercian Order was founded in 1098 in Citeaux, France as a reaction to the luxury that characterized the life and architecture of the buildings of the Benedictine Order. The basic principles of the Cistercians were humility, simplicity, discipline, hard manual labour and contact with nature. Seeking ‘life in the desert’, they therefore founded their monasteries far from populated areas, preferably in isolated fertile valleys and near springs. This was the case in Stymphalia, where they miraculously channeled the waters of the spring from the nearby hill to the monastery. The church was excavated in 1928 by A. Orlandos and in 1962 by E. Sika. In 1993 the Archaeological Service granted permission to excavate the site to the Canadian Archaeological Institute. Professor Dr. Sheila Campbell was in charge of the excavation, which lasted until 1997.

Another important monument – a creation of nature this time – is the Barathran cave at the site “Skala”, which unfortunately is not exploited and can be visited. Its entrance was discovered during the widening of the main road network of Stymphalia and was explored in July 1978 by the late caveologist Anna Petrochilou and her colleagues G. Anna Petrochilichi, with her colleagues G. Avagianos and M. E. Potosilichi, was the first to discover the history of the village. Avvaginaia and Em. The cave extends from S to N in a straight line of 20 meters, while the passages are 25-30 meters long. Its total area reaches 265 square meters. The temperature of the cave measured in July 1978 was 17o C, while the humidity was 65%. The first part of the cave is not of tourist interest. The latter, however, because of the rich stalactite and stalagmite decoration, is remarkable. This fact inspired the research team to propose an original way of exploiting the cave by converting it into a chapel, which would be naturally decorated with rich stalactite decorations. Unfortunately, despite the initial interest of the authorities, no real initiative has been taken since then, with the consequence that the cave remains closed and unused.

However, another Corinthian agency is actively showing its interest in the area. It is the Forestry Service which, apart from the elegant wooden observation kiosks at many strategic points in the area, has also created some excellent trails. The first one starts from the “Skala” position, crosses a hillock densely planted with holly trees and, after about 300 metres, ends at the magnificent Acropolis of ancient Stymphalos. The remaining paths, always delimited by wooden railings through dense holly trees, lead in three minutes to the top of a hill, which dominates majestically over the lake. From the four observation posts installed in this area by the Forestry Department, the view is prominent over the whole plateau and the surrounding mountains, a true privilege of sight for the visitor. A little further down from the observatories and opposite the settlement of Kionia, a Museum of Environmental Education and Agricultural Professions is to be opened, financed by Piraeus Bank.

THANKS

We would like to express our sincere thanks for their multiple help:

Asprokampos Christos Bizios, Vassilis Lykargyris from Psari, and Kostas Kostouros from Kaisari.

-George Rigopoulos from Lavka and Councillor Takis Sarla from Drosopigi for the time they spent for us and for their valuable information.

-The Forester-Perivallontologist and Forester of Corinthia Panagiotis Kalliris, for his willing and immediate response to provide us with an abundance of data and wonderful photographic material for Stymphalia.

-Archaeologist Yannis Lilos for his valuable suggestions.

-The caveologist George Avagianos for the immediate sending of data and slides for the cave of Drosopigi.

-Athena Moulopoulou for the important information about Kastania

-The Xenia Kastania Hotel for the excellent services of its staff and for the wonderful conditions of accommodation.

-Finally, we are particularly grateful to the editor of the excellent magazine of Feneos and Stymphalia “Aipitos”, Spyros K. Michopoulos, without whose willing cooperation and participation, the article would have been considerably poorer.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

-Journal ‘Aipitos’, issues 23-25 (2001) and issues 26-28 (2002).

-P. A. Kalliri, “Lake Stymphalia, a journey into the myth and beauty of the unique mountainous wetland of the Peloponnese”.

-Stymphalia Pond (4th phase), Final development report and action plan, Dec. 1997

-Corinthia Prefecture, ‘CORINTHIA’, Corinth 2000

-Hellenic Ornithological Society, “SIGNIFICANT AREAS FOR BIRDS OF GREECE”, Athens 1994

-AUSANIA, GREECE HISTORY, VOLUME 7, Arcadia, ed. KAKTOS, Athens 1992

-K. I. Karamitsou, “EVANDRO CASTANIA”, part 1, Castania 1997

-Γ. K.K. Bouziotis, “The Road to the Mountainous Corinth”, Athens 1985

– Bulletin of the Hellenic Speleological Society.

Volume XIX, Issue 1, 1983-88, “Barathrodes Cave of Stymphalia Drosopigi Corinthia, A. Petrochilou.

-Σ. Michas, D. Pitsounis, Ch.  Adelphotis Lafkioton Athenes, Athens, Athens 1979.

-Σ. Spyropoulos, “KEFALARI STYMPHALIA, THE SPACE OF DUSIA”, under publication.

USEFUL INFORMATION

DISTANCE FROM ATHENS:150 KM

FROM THESSALONIKI: 600 KM

LOCAL PRODUCTS.

Graviera and Feta cheese of Stymphalia Kon/no Legas.

Local meat and poultry in the butchers and S. MARKETs of the area.

Honey, noodles, trahanades and beans.

ANNEX

With an altitude of 800 m. Drosopigi belongs to the mountain villages of the Municipality of Stymphalia and is 4 km. from the main road network. Spiros K. Mihopoulos, editor of the excellent magazine ‘Aipitos’ and a native of Drosopigi, is the person best qualified to speak about it. Responding kindly to our invitation, he gives us a “faint portrait” of his small homeland:

“In my village of Bassi, where I was born, I have left myself as a child. That’s why, as Cavafy says, I left my home in the village where I grew up:

“I would like to tell this memory… for far away in my early teenage years it lies”.

So my village of Bassi, which today is called Drosopigi, and I don’t know why, is a beautiful village with a special colour, nestled on a hillside, a branch of Zireia, facing the plain and the lake of Stymphalia. At its highest part the slope is all stone, as if God, when he made the world, had no use for the stones he had left over and threw them all there.

One of them, the “Kokkinovrachos” as the locals call it, even escaped from him and fell lower than the village and since then it has been standing there, as a huge monument of nature. It looks like a castle without a doubt and all the filmmakers who have shot films in Stymphalia have not failed to include it in their shots. The name of the village was changed a few decades ago, because it was said to be Turkish, something that happened in many villages of our country and so Greece was filled with “Drosopigγές” and “Kryovrysoules”.

As we approached the village’s emba, the Turkish tower with its stone pride looms proudly, standing there for centuries and never getting old. It has nothing but stories to tell and tell, tell, tell… It is a two-storey, all-round tower with battlements all around and was built at the beginning of the Turkish occupation to control the road from Stymphalia to Feneos and the Byzantine Tarsus, where the Castle of Sfyron is located, which was conquered after a siege by Mohammed the Conqueror himself.

The village was built much later and after the Revolution it passed into the ownership of the Notarades along with the tower. A few metres further on they built their three-storey mansion, which still stands, but is still wounded by abandonment and the weight of two centuries and more that it bears on its shoulders. In the last decades of the 19th century, the mansion was inhabited by John Notaras, the chosen and “wild” one, who also served as mayor of Stymphalia for many years. A little further from Notaraika stands a nice stone building, the village school.

Deserted for years, it too is following its own course towards collapse, if not taken care of in time to stop it.

The village roads are uphill, except for two vertical ones that go straight up. One comes from the fountain of “Churhula”, lately embellished with marble corbels. The other one starts from the church and goes all the way to the cemetery, which is located above a beautiful chestnut forest. It is what remains of the Kastanodas that used to reach the neighbouring village of Kastania. It was burned, as they say, in the years of the Revolution and only the name of that village remained.

The main road goes up from Notaras to the Church of Panagia Faneromeni, which is celebrated on 23 August and the village used to have a big festival. Built with chipped stone on a huge rock, it covers the village with Her grace and protects it, which spreads its stone charm at Her feet, now also damaged by the indiscriminate onslaught of cement. A little further up, the village rests its back on the embrace of another lush forest, “the forbidden one” which has grown wild since the inhabitants were forbidden to graze their cattle there and cut the branches.”

With Councillor Takis Sarelas from Drosopigi, we set off from in front of Notaras’ mansion on a mountainous march above the village.

Climbing through pastures we enjoy the open view of the plain, which becomes more and more imposing. After six and a half kilometres we meet a stone fountain and on the left the road that descends to Kastania. We continue our difficult course on the rocky slopes of Zireia and, four kilometres after the fountain, we reach the long, narrow plateau of Goura. Snow and rain have turned the lush green meadow into a treacherous swamp. So we return and at the height of the fountain we descend the fork leading to Kastania. It is a fascinating and absolutely solitary route, carved into the steep slopes of the huge funnel of a ravine, which after five kilometres brings us to the centre of the village.

Another mountainous settlement, in the northwest of the municipality of Stymphalia, is Kefalari. It is a large village, built on the eastern edge of Zireia, at an altitude of 750 meters. A large plane tree, planted 120 years ago by a peddler, embraces the central square with its branches. Three fountains run under its roots, while four other springs are scattered around the village. From the square there are paths leading to the compact fir forest above the village.

Nearby is the natural spring ‘Kefalari’, which has been irrigating the village’s plain for centuries and its waters used to be used by the water mills.

The original name of the village was ‘Dousia’, after the thief ‘Dousia’ who came from the village. It was later renamed ‘Dousia’, because ‘Dousia’ was considered to be of Turkish origin. Since 1928 it was given the name “Kefalari”, due to the homonymous spring.

At the northeasternmost end of the municipality of Stymphalia dominates the large and beautiful village of Kaisari, the first village that the visitor meets from Kiato. Its altitude ranges from 800-900 m, while the roads that run vertically through it have steep slopes. In the small square with the magnificent view dominates the magnificent stone church of Metamorphosis of the Saviour, while at the top of the steep hill above the village is the chapel of St. Constantine. The main income of the villagers comes from the cultivation of Agiorgitiko, Sultanina and Corinthian raisins, in some of the most mountainous vineyards of Corinthia.

Before we leave the village, Kostas Kostouras treats us to a tsipouro in his little café in the square, in the company of the amiable Papa Panagiotis.