On the way to Kythnos

At half past six in the morning we see the lights of Lavrio. At this hour, early February, the darkness is still deep.

At exactly 07:00, according to a Swiss chronometer, the F/B “Aqua Jewel” unties the anchors and sets sail.

An hour later we enter the port of Tzia. Three or four passengers disembark, and in 10 minutes we set sail for Kythnos. As the clock reads 09:40′, the ship is flanked on the pier of Merichas, the main port of the island.

About twenty people come off, all locals, except for the two of us. What foreigner, after all, would come to Kythnos in early February! We are spotted immediately by George Vadivoulis, polite, and with extensive knowledge of Kythnos.

From Merichas to Vryokastro

From the ship to our accommodation we need no more than five minutes. Fifty-five stone steps among bushes and bougainvillea lead us to our small, charming apartment. Which, in addition to the functionality of the space and the completeness of the equipment, has a terrace that offers a unique view of the harbor and the Aegean Sea.

Restaurants, bars and cafes are spread out in strategic spots of the port. A harbour exposed only to the winds of the mainland and – secondarily – the north wind.

The important fishing fleet ensures fresh fish from the local seas every day. Meat also plays a very important role in local gastronomy, with many lambs grazing in various parts of the island.

Two main roads branch off from the port of Merichas: the first one goes north, passes through Chora, the capital of the island and ends, further north, at the settlement of Loutra. The second artery, oriented eastwards, initially meets the traditional settlement of Dryopida and then the seaside settlement of Panagia Kanala, with the miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary. Another branch continues and ends at the settlement of Agios Dimitrios, at the southernmost tip of the island.

Next to our accommodation is the tiny café of Michalis Famelitis, “Annezios”.

-After your very early morning journey I suggest a coffee, says George.

To appease our hunger, we accompany our coffee with two traditional “Thermionic” (1) products. They are “Kolopi” (2) and “Pitaro” (3), both very tasty.

We study the detailed hiking map “KYTHNOS 1 : 25 000” of TERRAIN. As our first destination we choose the archaeological site of Vryokastro and the famous beach of Kolona.

After the deep blue horizon of the sea we take the grassy uphill. Very quickly, landscapes authentic to the Thermian hinterland enter our field of vision. The protagonists are the rough, handmade dry stone walls, which form countless terraces or terraces. (4) There, the industrious Thermians once grew cereals, vegetables and fodder. Today, in the small allotments, only weeds and bushes grow.

The most spectacular, dry-stone fences are the long fences with the wide, well-formed paths between them, the famous “surmi” (treks). The quality of the fences is impressive. Small and large stones are perfectly fitted together, while the insertion, at dense intervals, of successive upright slabs is very special. (5)

Another very special building of the Kythnos countryside is the small complexes of rural houses, known as ‘Kellias’. According to Evangelia Kallila, (6) there are two types of rural dwelling in Kythnos: the simplest is called “Keli” and the complex “Kalyvara” or “Katoikia”. The ‘keli’ is made of dry stone and usually consists of two rectangular rooms, one of which is used as a barn and the other as a living quarters. The calybara contains only one but spacious room with richer furnishings, combined with a semi-circular courtyard, the ‘courtyard’.

The typical rural family of the “xotaris” (7) in Kythnos in May, when the summer agricultural work began, loaded the animals with their “rumba”, i.e. luggage, and moved from the village to the rural dwelling. He stayed there until about the end of August, when the barley production process was completed. (8)

A complete Cypriot farmhouse complex, therefore, consisted of the following buildings:

• ‘Calybara’, the place of residence that is.
• ‘Keli’, which was mainly used as a place to store straw and fodder, but also as a place to stay.
• ‘Mantra’, which was the place where the animals were kept.
• The open-air oven, which was used exclusively for baking bread, while the ‘chimney’ was used for preparing food.
• Finally, ‘Aloni’, where the straw was separated from the barley. The threshing floor was paved and its perimeter was surrounded by small upright slabs, the ‘anzouris’.

The only building material used for all the buildings was local stone from the area as close as possible to the complex. The stones were usually chipped flat and partially processed during construction.

Archaeological site of Vryokastro

12:30′ We start our ascent to the hill of Vryokastro, from an altitude of 70 meters. Very good the path develops with a gentle slope, between dry stone walls of wonderful construction. The ground is covered with thick grass and countless flowers. In early February, the presence of spring is triumphant.

Far away, on the eastern horizon, the hill of Prophet Elias stands out, at an altitude of 326 metres. Lower in the north, the green valley of “Apokrousi” and the charming beach at the cove of the homonymous bay. Here is a small cell with a “bioclimatic” roof, covered with grass.

All around, like scattered white brushstrokes on the green-coloured canvas of the ground, the unadorned little churches of Kythnos beckon us, the Virgin of Nikos, almost in the same straight line as the distant Prophet Elias. We could hardly imagine a landscape more idyllic and peaceful. It is true bliss to wander at a leisurely, hiking pace. This way, we have all the time to soak up this unadulterated, authentic beauty of this place.

Having covered a distance of 550 metres, we reach a neck at an altitude of 110 metres. From here, the final uphill climb to the hill of Vryokastro begins. We open a wooden gate and continue on a narrow path, scented with sage in our wake.

We follow a north-west oriented course. On the slopes of the hill, parts of the fortified enclosure of the Acropolis stand out, with large carved boulders. We are already at the archaeological site of Vryokastro. Let us follow a brief and very interesting report from the website of the University of Thessaly (Department of History, Archaeology, Social Anthropology), led by the research team of Professor Alexandros Mazarakis Aignan. (9)

Before, however, we refer to the chronicle of the multi-year excavations, we consider it appropriate to make a brief tour of the historical periods of Kythnos. According to Herodotus, the oldest inhabitants were the Dryopes. They migrated from Evia and their leader, according to Stephanos Byzantios, was Kythnos.

In 480 BC the Kythnians took part in the Battle of Salamis with two ships and for this they were inscribed on the base of the Golden Delphic tripod and on the pedestal of the statue of Zeus in Olympia. After the Persians, Kythnos was incorporated into the 1st Athenian Alliance, having a population of about 2500 inhabitants.

During the Peloponnesian War the Kythnians remained allies of the Athenians, until they sided with the Macedonians of Philip II.

During Roman times Kythnos, like the other Cycladic islands, declined and served as a place of exile or as a base for pirates.

Regarding the archaeological sites of Kythnos, on the northeast coast of the island, above Loutra, is the site of “Maroulas”, which is considered the oldest settlement in the Cyclades. The site dates back to the Late Mesolithic Period (8500 – 6500 BC) The excavations there brought to light a few burials and remains of circular structures, which were probably used as living quarters.

A site of the Early Cycladic II Period (3rd millennium BC) was investigated at the ‘Skouries’ site. (10) Some 20 circular structures were found there, which are thought to be the roofs of mining furnaces for copper smelting.

At the northern, steep end of the island is the fortified citadel known as the ‘Castle of Oria’ or ‘Katakefalos’. It is identified with the capital of the island in the Byzantine and Latin periods, but it seems to have been inhabited since prehistoric times.

Finally, there is another fortified citadel, Kastellas, on the west coast. The acropolis is thought to have been founded in early historical times but was abandoned at the end of the Archaic period. Today, few remains remain on the ground since, in later times, it has been extensively cleared for building houses.

Vryokastro

The most important place of historical times is undoubtedly Vryokastro or Rigokastro, as the ancient capital of the island is called. As the findings testify, the city was inhabited continuously from the 10th century BC to the 6th – 7th century AD, when the inhabitants moved to the fortified settlement of the Castle of Oria.

The ancient Necropolis

The main cemetery of the ancient city occupies a large area outside the southern part of the wall and from its NW gate. In the National Archaeological Museum of Athens, most of the relief tomb stelae come from this area.

The ancient port

In the bay “Mandraki”, on the western coast of Vryokastro, the submerged remains of the port of the ancient capital of the island have been identified. Underwater investigations started in 2005 and are ongoing. The foundations of the coastal walls and a breakwater more than 100 metres long, which in the south marked the entrance to the port, were found on the seabed. In 2008 and 2009, underwater surveys yielded important marble statues from the Roman period, including a 1st century BC thoracic trunk and three hermaphrodite stelae from the 2nd century AD.

The walls and the independent fortress

The city is surrounded by strong walls which, in some places, are perfectly preserved. Their construction dates back to classical and Hellenistic times, while some of them may belong to the Archaic period. On a hill to the south-east of the city, the remains of a small independent Hellenistic fortress are preserved. It may have been the headquarters of the Macedonian garrison, which was established in Kythnos by Philip V in 201 BC.

The Αqueduct

Inside the city, many underground reservoirs are preserved that were intended for the collection of rainwater. A spring a few kilometres outside the city supplied the main aqueduct with water through an underground pipeline. Three parallel galleries are still preserved in the natural rock.

Agora

In 2009, a rectangular structure measuring 17 x 10 m was uncovered. The SE hall was paved, while a hearth was found in the NE. It is thought to be a building of public, perhaps even commercial character which, in combination with the numerous finds, does not exclude the possibility that the sought-after market of the ancient city of Kythnos was located in this area.

Sanctuary of Demeter

At the top of the Acropolis stands an important sanctuary which, as the surface findings show, was in use from the end of the 7th century BC to the 1st century AD. The remains of at least four buildings and probably an altar can be discerned. The number and type of finds, as well as inscriptions from the sanctuary of Demeter in Eleusis, lead to the safe conclusion that the sanctuary was dedicated to the cult of Demeter.

Sanctuary of the Samothracian gods and Aphrodite

In the Middle Plateau, two monumental rectangular structures are preserved. The southernmost one with the code “Building I” consists of two rooms, while a cistern is carved into the natural rock. The northernmost structure “Building 2” is larger and more imposing. From the masonry it can be dated to the 4th or 3rd century BC. The two buildings had a cult character, a hypothesis that is based – among other things – on various findings, such as a Hellenistic votive inscription, a Roman inscription mentioning Asclepius, and a fragment of a marble sculpture, which, according to Petros Themelis, may be a statue of Aphrodite, the work of the Messenian sculptor Damophon. The cult of Aphrodite in Kythnos was confirmed by the discovery, near the harbour, of a small inscribed base of classical times that mentions the name of the goddess.

Sanctuary of Apollo and Artemis

At the northernmost end of the Middle Plateau another Sanctuary was found in 2001. During the excavations from 2002 to 2006 numerous offerings from the Archaic to the Hellenistic period were found. The temple was probably built in the early Archaic period (7th century BC). Its external dimensions are 14.65 x 8.65 m. It was probably suddenly destroyed by an earthquake.

The sanctuary of the temple was found undisturbed, with numerous valuable votive offerings in place, dating mainly to Archaic times. From their individual characteristics it is deduced that the temple was a sanctuary dedicated to Artemis and Apollo.

Both the richness and variety and the exotic origin of the finds allow us to revise the image of relative poverty, which has hitherto prevailed for Kythnos. A large number of gold, silver, bronze and bone jewelry such as earrings, rings, bracelets, buckles, pins and amulets of various types were found. Many of these are made of crystal, glass, faience, semi-precious stones, electrum (amber) and coral. The shrine that came to light undoubtedly had considerable radiance.

Much more could be said about the 16 successive excavation periods, which began in 2002 and are still ongoing, on this lonely hill of Kythnos that dominates the Aegean and the famous Colonna. It is a wonderful chronicle, with a wealth of information and fascinating photographs about the distant past of the ancient capital of Kythnos. A past worth seeking out for every philhellenic reader on the website of the University of Thessaly, Department of History, Archaeology and Social Anthropology.

On the road to Kolona

After our tour of part of the walled ancient city of Kythnos, which extends over 285 acres, (11) we descend towards the western coastline. It is a fascinating course, among fences, paddocks, calybaras and cells, threshing floors and built-up cells, at the top of a dry stone wall. All the representatives of the stone, folk architecture of Kythnos are here. There are also countless shells (12) of all sizes and shapes scattered on the rough ground of the slopes of Vryokastro.

We emerge from a wide wire door and head towards the spectacular Kolona Isthmus. This is the sandy, narrow strip of land that connects the coast of Kythnos with the peninsula of St. Luke.

In the background of the western horizon, in the imaginary straight line behind St. Luke’s, a mass of land protrudes. It is the rocky, uninhabited islet of St George, also known as San Giorgos (13).

Smooth and relaxing, our path is scented with thyme. A little lower down, the stately plan of the bay of “Repulsion” is revealed.

14:30 Two hours after the beginning of our hike – and with many stops in between – we have covered a distance of 2,800 m. We are already leaving the slopes of Vryokastro and our steps sink into the sandy beach of Apokrousi. It is a lovely beach, barely exposed only to the surf. That feature, however, that makes Apokrousi unique is the huge, tamarisk trees. Arranged side by side, they resemble century-old giants, whose roots and wrinkled trunks provide a permanent protection to the beach from the waves of the garbi.

Among all the tamarisk stands out one with five thick branches, which rise in a circular arrangement from the central, massive trunk. It is, without a doubt, the oldest tamarisk we have ever encountered and rightfully earns the nickname “The Methuselah of Tamarisk.” (14)

The famous Kolona

After the beach of Apokrousi we take the dirt road that ends at Kolona. A small hill takes us about 50 meters above the sea surface.  We leave the curve of the road on our right and descend a much shorter but quite steep path, with stone steps and sections of roughly built cobbled path in between.

We come out on a smooth dirt road, at sea level. Dune, farmhouse and cells, sheep and goats, slate trees, oleanders and wattle and daffodils. Alongside the road is “Fikiada”, the beautiful beach east of the peninsula of Agios Loukas. A short uphill walk, we open a tough iron gate and admire the geological phenomenon of the sandy isthmus, which barely protrudes a few tens of centimetres from the surface of the water.

With a length of about 150 metres and a minimum width of 25 – 30 metres, the isthmus is interposed between the Kythnian coast and the peninsula of Agios Loukas and forms two sandy beaches of unparalleled beauty: Kolona to the west and Fykiada to the east. It is a magical picture that reminds us in miniature of the Prasonisi of Rhodes. The bottoms of the two beaches are shallow and sandy, with greenish-blue, perfectly clear waters. At the beginning of February, at this sunny, midday hour, we do not dare to take a brave dive. We put it off until next time.

15:30′. From the south end of the Isthmus we climb the path to St. Luke’s. In 10 minutes we are at the chapel, at an altitude of 45 meters and 6 km from the trailhead. The view is, quite simply, unique. No description, however vivid, can do justice to the harmony of nature, the serenity of the landscape, the immaculate symmetry of the sandy isthmus in the middle of the two beaches. We are left to gazing and ruminating, with our thoughts leaping a few months into summer and carefree hours.

16:00′. As the first shadows of dusk appear on the uncharted waters, we set off to complete our return journey in daylight. This time we avoid Vryokastro. After the beach of Apokrousi we take a smooth and relaxing path, which crosses the beautiful, valley of Apokrousi. In just 1 hour and 10 minutes we reach from Agios Loukas to Diasella, the starting point of our morning route. It is a distance of 4,150 meters, quite a bit shorter than the 6 km of our hike to Kolona.

‘Tsiknopempti’ in Dryopida

After our long trek, the normal progression would be to return and rest at Merichas. However, George has already made sure to sharpen our curiosity about the special moments that a visitor can experience on this evening of Ash Wednesday in Dryopida.

With about 300 inhabitants, Dryopida is the third largest settlement of Kythnos – after Chora and Merichas. It is built at an altitude of 190 meters, in a central point of the inland, unseen from the sea.

In the past it was called “Chorio” or “Sylakas”, but in the years of Otto the place regained its old name which was “Dryopis”, from the ancient tribe of Dryopes.

What makes Dryopida stand out from the majority of the Cycladic settlements is its buildings, most of them roofed not with the typical Cycladic roof but with a tiled roof. This is due to the ceramic art, which was once developed in Dryopida. Therefore, observing the ground plan of Dryopida from the hill with the windmills, to the south of the village, we have the feeling that we are looking at a mountainous, traditional settlement.

As the first lights come on, we get lost in the narrow, labyrinthine streets of the village. Before two or three minutes have passed, we feel a familiar smell wafting through the atmosphere.

-Is there an open-air barbecue? we ask George.

-Street barbecue, one of the most authentic ones, our friend answers. We’re almost there.

We realize it in the next alleyway, home to a huge barbecue. Up there, countless skewers are roasting on the coals, emitting a thick cloud of tickling, very tickling. We couldn’t imagine a more authentic chinky than this. Accompanied, of course, by plenty of wine.

With difficulty we open a road and reach a three-stranded road, which, with a similar reduction, could be considered a small square.

-Why so many people here?, we ask George.

-Because the instruments are about to arrive and the dancing is about to begin.

We’re anxiously looking for an elevated spot to get a better view. We spot a narrow stone staircase between two houses.

Suddenly we feel privileged, from the top step we can see everything. There are the lutes and the violin, accompanied by men and women in traditional songs and costumes. Later, a tambourine that adds its characteristic sound to those of the lutes and violin. Everyone sways to the rhythm of the music, but the show is stolen by the girls of Dryopida, beautiful, with traditional costumes and endless liveliness in their dancing.

From our “box” we watched this genuine folk romp of Chiknopetta in Dryopida. When, long afterwards, we decide to leave, people are still coming and the grilled souvlaki are still coming and the souvlaki are not going to end.

And next year, women and men of Dryopis! Be optimistic and strong, so that you can exorcise with wine, song and dance the evil that has gripped this country from end to end.

Chora, wandering in the alleys

It’s dawning on a half-dark morning with a bit of north wind and clouds, but the weather quickly clears up.

-The schedule today is very demanding, says George, we will be in many different parts of the island. I suggest we start with a leisurely tour of Chora.

Traditional pitaros and spanakopita, coffee and we head out north of Merichas towards Chora. Good tarmac road pleasant scenery with changing topography, spectacular dry stone walls, white chapels and cells. An early spring, flowery and warm, accompanies us on the beautiful route.

7 km after Merichas, we reach the little square in front of the town hall of Chora. This morning, during working hours, the parking lot is crowded. Every attempt to find a parking space is in vain.Just as we are about to leave, a fisherman sees us, selling fresh marijuana and gopaki in his truck.

-Come to my place, you guys. I’ll be leaving the village in a few hours.

Built at an altitude of 150 meters, Chora, or “Mesaria”, occupies an elongated plateau on the central ridge to the north of the island. In the 16th century, after the destruction of the old capital, most of the inhabitants began to move here, where, over time, the capital of the island was created.

Our tour of Chora turns into a fascinating wander, starting from the imposing church of Agia Triada, the Metropolis of Chora. Immediately below is the “Katholikon”, where the Orthodox-Catholics used to hold a collective ritual. The open-air area is dotted with architectural elements of earlier times, found in various parts of the island. Among them we can see a Roman marble replica of a seated man, broken columns and column bases, a large capitals, a relief of a double-headed eagle, Hellenistic and Roman inscriptions.

Very close by is the smaller church of Panagia of the Castle. In front of it there is a paved street with various shops: bakery, café, traditional sweets workshop. Flower pots on the stairs and very narrow vertical streets complete the Cycladic character of Chora. Very picturesque is the cafe “Amoroula”, with a wood stove, which is currently lit.

Our path continues to the church of Agios Ioannis the Baptist. The tiny square is covered by a bed of cribs created by the intricate branches of a huge bougainvillea. We walk slowly, delightfully, the images constantly changing: a square with the massive church of Agios Ioannis the Theologian, a Folklore Museum, a covered alleyway called “κατασtei” in the Kithniotean dialect, winding forks of narrow streets, an old dilapidated house that declares it is “for sale” (who, really, would take it?). “Windmill Square” with the Church of Christ, we turn left, in front of us another very special little church, Panagia “Chrysopi”. Its peculiarity lies in its external walls, which are decorated with themes of traditional Cycladic landscapes and villages, boats with white cloth, and a wide variety of flowers with vivid colors. The most amazing thing is , that all this unexpected explosion of colours and themes extends, apart from the chapel, to most of the houses in the neighbourhood. This is the neighborhood of Flora Vassalou, a self-taught local painter who has only started painting in the last four years. Since then she has transformed this residential part of Chora into a neighborhood that is colorful, cheerful and very charming.

Equally charming is Flora’s home, which has been transformed into a wonderful gallery. There the hostess welcomes us, treats us and talks to us about her great – late – love, painting.

Before bidding us farewell, she does not fail to give us two beautiful glass bottles, painted by her hand.

Near the church of the Holy Trinity, we come across a house dated 1892.

Our field of vision is already dominated by the impressive church of St. Savas. An inscription indicates the date of construction: ACHIG (1613). There is also the coat of arms of the Venetian monarch A. Gozadini, whose dynasty lasted in Kythnos from 1337 to 1617. Below the church of St. Savas is the parallelogram paved square of the “HELLENIC-Croatian Friendship” In the 17th century, a member of the Gozadini family went to Ukraine, spread Christianity to the local population, was canonized and received the name Ignatius. In 2015 a part of his bones was transferred to the church of St. Savas. The twinning of Kythnos and Mariupol of Ukraine took place in 2015 and has been celebrated every October 1 since then. A stylish sign (15) informs us that the church next door is that of Taxiarchis.

In Chora, the morning time flows wonderfully, however, there is a new exciting destination ahead of us: the Castle of Oria.

The spectacular Castle of Oria

From Chora we head north towards Loutra. After a few minutes of pleasant driving, we meet, before Loutra, a narrow asphalt road on the left. Going uphill for about two kilometres, we take a dirt road suitable for 4×4 on our left. The dirt track lasts for one kilometre. We leave the car near the chapel of Agios Philippos, at an altitude of 195 metres.

11:20′. We start in a W-NW direction passing by a rural house. The rocky, steep hill is already revealed, on top of which the Castle of Oria looms impressively above the blue pelagic horizon.

Heading NW we find an unobtrusive path, pass an iron gate and, with no obvious signposting, follow a gently sloping route diagonally to the left. On our right, a large rocky complex rises up, with a cell at its base. In essence, we are traversing the N-NE slope of a wide gorge whose bed ends at the beach “Gialoudi”.

11:45′. 25 minutes after our departure we arrive at the base of the huge rock on which the brown masonry of the Castle begins. Here the altitude is 190 meters, almost equal to the altitude of the starting point of the route.

The Castle of Katakefalos or Oria was the medieval capital of the island from the 7th century AD until the 16th century. (16) During the Middle Ages it was called the Castle of Thermia, since Thermia was the old name of Kythnos because of the thermal baths.

According to the website of “Kastrologos”, the Castle of Oria was the seat of the feudal family of the Gozzadini who ruled the island from 1337 to 1617, as vassals of the Venetian Duchy of Naxos. The castle was destroyed by the notorious Turkish pirate Hairredin Barbarossa in 1537. Its final abandonment occurred around 1570, when the Franks moved their residences to Messaria, Chora, which became the new capital of the island.

A stone path and steps lead to a flat plateau, near the entrance of the Castle, in 3 minutes. 20 meters further north, a dizzying cliff leads to the rocky cove of “Sklavos”.

From the gate we enter the interior of the walled castle town, the total area of which is 10.5 hectares. On the whole south-southwest side the fortification enclosure has been extensively damaged. Here are the remains of a tiny chapel built with dry stone at the foot of a rock.

We continue the peripheral route within the walls in a westerly direction. Steps lead us to the highest point of the castle, at an altitude of 240 metres. Here is the little house of the “Kelariko”, where the furniture and utensils used for the festival of Agia Eleousa, the “Keraleousa” are stored. The chapel, built lower down, looks like a white touch among the brownish remains of houses, fortifications and stone walls. A multitude of islands can be seen on the pelagic horizon. We can make out Tzia to the north and behind it, faintly, southern Evia and further east, Gyaros, Andros, Tinos and Syros.

We wander among the ruins, with unsteady steps on the shapeless cobblestones that were once alleys, houses and churches. At the W – NW end of the once medieval castle town we discover the only surviving standing church, probably of the Holy Trinity. Few remains of frescoes with faded colours are preserved, leaving no room for identification of the figures.

There is also a ruined building, with two ancient marble columns built into the masonry on the north and south sides. Next to it we note the presence of a cistern, with the roof hole half-covered.

It is now midday, with mixed feelings, we leave the Castle of Oria. We are already heading to Loutra, the northernmost settlement and port of Kythnos.

We approach the northern part of the bay by a peripheral road. Here we are struck by the large metal ladder for loading iron ore with three stone pillars. Also preserved in ruined form is the tower of the airborne ore transport terminal. The loading staircase of Loutra is considered one of the best preserved staircases in the Aegean.  This is where iron ore was transported from the mines of “Kakovulou”, about two kilometres west of Loutra. It was transported by ‘decoville’ (17) rails to the air transport station and, via the metal loading ladder, was loaded onto the ships.

The mine at Kakovoulo covered an area of about 10 000 hectares. Operations began in 1902 and were discontinued in 1940. The extracted iron ore was poor, so it was carefully sorted to achieve a content of 45% iron and 2.5% manganese.

With about 80 permanent residents, mainly engaged in fishing and tourism, Loutra is the fourth most populated settlement on the island. Two chemical analyses carried out at Loutra in 1830 and 1833 made known the therapeutic properties of the springs, which were visited by the royal couple of Otto and Amalia. These hot springs were also the reason for the island’s earlier name “Thermia”. There is a hydrotherapy unit with baths and hot tubs belonging to the E.O.T.

Of great interest are the two springs outside the E.O.T. facilities that flow a little further down into the shallow sea waters. There it is a very pleasant experience to feel the combination of the cool sea water and the warm waters of the springs. Their temperatures are respectively 38 and 52o C. It is no coincidence that the cute little girl from California, who has been in Kythnos at the beginning of February and splashes around in these exciting waters, shows such enthusiasm.

Loutra is a picturesque settlement, with well-protected harbour facilities, some traditional houses and a satisfactory tourist infrastructure. Unfortunately, the facilities of the once thriving “Xenia” have stopped working years ago.

The afternoon finds us at the “Sofrano”, enjoying our tsipouroki while gazing at the harbour.

Towards the south

After the tsipouro, we continue our tour to the south of the island. Outside Dryopida, a nice route begins, between scattered chapels. Very quickly we leave the main network and head left towards Panagia Kanala.The downhill road leads us, three km later, to the seaside settlement.At the eastern end of the bay of Megali Ammos is the famous church of Panagia Kanala, one of the most popular pilgrimages of Orthodoxy in the Cyclades. Here is kept the considered miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary, measuring 1 meter x 0.80 cm. It is the work of the famous Cretan hagiographer Emmanuel Skordilis, in the year 1575.

According to tradition, the icon got its name because it was found by fishermen in the “canal”, the strait between Serifos and Kythnos.

We reach the church by a wide paved road, which passes by a dense and beautiful pine forest, the only one in Kythnos. Immediately after the church there is a spacious, paved square with cypress trees, forming dense umbrellas with their branches. At the end of the rocky coast is built a chapel with the rare name of Agia Kalliopi. The view of Serifos to the south and, further east, of the uninhabited islets of Piperi and Serfopoula is exceptional.

We return to the main road network and continue to Agios Dimitrios. The Virgin Mary “Stratilatissa” or “Stratolatissa” is prominently displayed. It is a beautiful church with two naves and a dome, and the holy altar rests on an ancient column.

The route continues with descents and long straights. Numerous forks with dirt or narrow asphalt roads, end with winding paths and turns, at some of the countless beaches of the eastern and western coastline.

-It would take days and days, if only to even approach these complex, sequential beaches, George says. Even the locals don’t know them all.

At the end of our route is “Agios Dimitrios”, the southernmost and most remote settlement of Kythnos. It is a purely holiday resort, with a sandy beach, amphitheatrically built houses, and a few taverns and rooms to let. In our short walk we do not meet a soul.

By the time we return to Merichas the night has fallen dark. A huge black cloud has covered the canopy of the sky from side to side. As we climb the last steps to the room, an angry gust of wind, an unmistakable harbinger of rain, catches up with us. A rain that bursts with terrible violence. We watch from the windows the blinding lightning bolts that lance the glittering pelagic horizon, expecting each time, in the intervening seconds, the deafening crack of thunder. It is a storm sublime, delightful in its ferocity but only to safe observers on land. No man of the sea would wish at this hour to be out in the open…

Walking from Dryopida to Kanala

We fall asleep to the sound of the rain, which must have been falling non-stop all night. There is no other explanation for the inaccessible – to vehicles and people – pool of water, revealed in daylight on the main road to the port. It is in some such extreme – and fortunately rare – flooding situations that the practical usefulness of the large arched bridge built on the settlement’s coastal road is demonstrated.

In heavy clouds we ascend to Dryopida. We hope to complete a long hiking route from Dryopida to Kanala.

We leave our car in front of the petrol station, at the eastern exit of the village, on the road to Chora.

09:30. We start with strong wind, earth and grass soaked by the rain, stones very slippery. The appearance of the sun, however, even if anemic between the clouds, fills us with optimism for the rest of the day. In the space of five minutes, the trek we’re walking on branches off.

-The left fork ends at Lefkes, our destination tomorrow, says George. Today we’re heading right towards Panagia Kanala.

Our route continues slightly downhill, through countless “stairs” and dry stone walls. Every now and then iron rails from the old “decoville” lines of the mines protrude. Some of them have been used to support the roof of a cell.

On the grassy ground we find a section of coarse cobblestone. In the opposite gully we can see well-built cells, a kiln, almond trees in bloom, and the largest concentration of olive trees we have ever seen on the island. The “Lefkes” appear low on the left.

09:50. We arrive at “Panagia tou Matas”, a picturesque chapel with a water source and covered washbasin. These are the so-called “Laundries of Mathas”, used for washing clothes by the women of Dryopida. A short stop and George lights the Virgin Mary’s candle. Above the chapel we spot a wooden sign lying in the grass, pointing back to Lefkes and ahead to Kalolivadi and Kanala. Here we have two possibilities: either to follow the right fork that initially meets a narrow asphalt road and continues south towards Kalolivadi, or to choose a parallel route to Kalolivadi. We choose the second route. Opposite us looms a stone, ruined complex of buildings with industrial architecture.

-These are the “Spitares”, explains George, what is left of the mining company’s facilities.

We pass near abandoned mine sites. In this area, the dry stones consist mainly of dark-coloured stones with a high iron content. The dry stone, however, is deteriorating in many places, with stones and soil having collapsed into the path.

10:20. We take a dirt road, follow it for about 200 meters, cross a narrow asphalt road and immediately afterwards we find the dirt road again. After 300 meters, the path gives way to the trail again. A downhill path and quite rough, with lots of stones and bits of slippery cobblestone between the grass.

10:50. A concrete road leads us to Panagia Kalolivadiani, with its cellar, the paved courtyard and the well. The view is excellent, both of the surrounding nature and of the sea that, a few metres below, roars with the foaming waves of the Levante. There is also a small threshing floor disappearing in the grass, while 100 metres further on, the houses of the holiday village of Kalolivadi are spread out. So far, the route data show a distance of 3.8 km and a net walking time of 57 minutes.

As we cross its beach the pelagic wind brings us the first drops of rain. Raincoats and hoods are called for. Immediately after the settlement, uphill climbs begin. It is the roughest so far, the most difficult trail. Narrow and steep, with tall grass hiding the rocks.  Thorny bushes and thick branches of harvested sedges make our steps difficult.

It takes us 15 minutes to cover the 600 metres of the uphill route. We emerge onto the dirt road in heavy rain and contemplate the two kilometers still remaining, either on a trail or an asphalt road, to reach our destination. As we begin our muddy march down the road, we hear the sound of a motorbike. It’s a 4×4 with a local driver, an acquaintance of George’s. Who, very willingly, undertakes to take us to Panagia Kanala.

Arriving at the beautiful church, the rain miraculously stops. Thus, we have once again the pleasure of being in this beautiful land and sea landscape, which surrounds the most popular Virgin Mary of Kythnos.

A taxi takes us to our car in Dryopida. In the daylight this time, we stroll through the picturesque alleys of the settlement. After the rain, a pale sun appears with a cold north wind. By noon we are starting to get hungry.

George directs our steps to the tavern of “Pelegra” which, along with the chippuraki, brings us a plate of “tarahto”, the extremely tasty strapatsada with tomato, eggs and cheese grated.

In the late afternoon on Merichas, a heavy rain breaks out again, adding a new amount of water to the harbour lake.

Last hours in Kythnos

After yesterday’s rain, a bright morning dawns. The protagonist is the maistro, not friendly but hostile, with gusts not infrequently approaching 9 Beaufort. And while we gaze in fascination at the weather’s frenzy, others are having an agonizing time. It is the fishermen and the owners of small boats who are watching – unable to intervene – their floating boats swaying in their dredges, risking collision or break-up.

Even more spectacular are the waves of the mainland outside the cape, on the ‘Merichas’s Xerxes’ and on the rocks of the coast. There, the moments of tension are unique.

George and I start our last march on the island, from Dryopida to Lefkes. It’s a pleasant route, bounded by well-made dry stone walls. The total length is 1.5 km to the seaside settlement of Lefkes, with a net walking time of 30 minutes. During the route, we pass by the chapel of Agios Ioannis Clydon and the “Lefka’s Wash”.

The small and picturesque settlement of Lefkes, on the cove of the homonymous sandy beach, with the necessary large tamarisks. In summer the place comes alive with rooms to let and tavernas. Today, however, the surprise comes from the depths of the earth. It is one of the best preserved and easily visited iron ore galleries of Lefka.

As we leave the settlement, we come across a steep, dirt track of about 100 metres on the right, at the end of which we find the mouth of the lodge. Equipped with strong flashlights we easily enter the gallery, the height of which can easily fit the boot of a normal person. The floor is almost flat and smooth, presenting no problems. As we penetrate further and further into the interior, we feel a strange captivity that would be very difficult for a claustrophobic to endure.

I count almost 180 steps into the gallery, corresponding to about 110-120 meters. With a general direction from W to E, we emerge a little further up the “Siffnio” cove. Here the gallery exit is impressive, with huge dimensions and a brownish-red mineral color. In this area were the well-known mines in “Zogaki”.

Their exploitation was inaugurated around 1895-96 and was mostly superficial. The ore mined was ‘lime stone’, which was transported by rail and air transport to Lefkes for loading onto steamships. From 1897 to 1910, 207,000 tons of ore were extracted from there. The mines at Zogaki were finally abandoned in 1920.

From the depths of the perforated – by the digging of the miners – hillock we emerge into the blinding light of the successive sparkling beaches and peninsulas of the bay of Agios Ioannis. It is an impressive alternation of sea and land, a beautiful picture that pleasantly accompanies us for several minutes on the way back.

Epilogue

As the boat pulls out into the open and sets course for Tzia, all the territorial details of the W-NW part of the island are revealed and given a name and identity. No longer are the nameless beaches, hills, and dry stone walls that were just five days ago. Now it is Vryokastro, the bays of Apokrousi and Kolonas, the mountain ridges of Kakovulou and, further north, the abyssal cliffs of the legendary castle of Oria. And there are, of course, “surmi”, the wonderful paths, so wisely delineated between the dozens of kilometres of dry stone fences, which are a true monument to the craftsmanship, stubbornness and patience of the Thermians.

We have chosen this island, the sweetest Kythnos, to spend, with some good friends, the holy days of Easter. We are sure that at this time of year, in the heart of spring, with the colours and aromas of the Cycladic nature, it will be a unique experience.

Thanks

Thank you very much: Alexandros Mazarakis-Ainian, Professor of Classical Archaeology at the University of Thessaly, for the valuable information about the excavations in Kythnos over many years. The Professor of Geology at the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, Vassilis Melfos, for the data he sent us on the iron ore of Kythnos, Evangelia Kallila, Civil Engineer of the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, for the useful data on the Cypriot rural dwelling. Terrain Publications and personally Stefanos Psimenos, for the excellent “Hiking Guide of Kythnos”. The Kythnians we met, for their helpfulness and hospitality. Finally, warm thanks are due to our good friend George Vadivoulis, who was the “driving force”, the well-informed guide and the valuable companion in all our wanderings on the island.

References

(1) The terms “Thermiotis” or “Thermiotikos” come from the alternative name of Kythnos “Thermia”, due to the thermal baths in the north of the island.

(2) ‘Kolopi’ consists of spinach, dill, rice and onion. In essence, it is spinach in dough, baked in the oven. Michael also adds cheese.

(3) ‘Pitaro’ is the traditional Thermian cheese pie made from fresh goat cheese (grated) and dough baked in the oven.

(4) In Thermian terminology, the terraces are called ‘stairs’.

(5) Upright slabs in Kythnos are called “Dromiki” because by using them they gained “road”, i.e. built surface, compared to building from smaller slabs, which were placed one on top of the other and were called “batik”. We have found a similar style of dry stone in Ikaria and Andros, where the upright slabs are called “stones”, from “steno”.

(6) Civil Engineer, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki. The data come from her thesis in 2005, with “proposals for building interventions for the restoration and reuse of farmhouses in Kythnos”.

(7) ‘Xotaris’ is the farmer who lives and works ‘outside’ for part of his life, as opposed to the ‘villager’, who lives in the village and does not engage in agricultural work.

(8) Barley was a staple of Cypriot life: it was used as the main foodstuff, either alone or mixed with wheat for bread production. It was also widely used as animal feed. Finally, because of its excellent quality, a significant quantity was used for the production of beer. Other products, apart from barley, were a few vines, legumes, a few fruit and vegetables and even less oil.

(9) A. Mazarakis is an archaeologist, excavator at Vryokastro and Professor of Classical Archaeology at the IACA Department of the University of Thessaly.

(10) According to a clarification by George Vadivouli, the site “Skouries” (not recorded on the map of Kythnos) is located in the inaccessible cape “Tzoulis”, at the E end of Kythnos, E of Agios Stefanos.

(11) This area also includes the tiny island of Vryonissaki, just a few metres off Mandraki Bay. As revealed by underwater research, the islet was connected to the coast in ancient times, but the rise of the sea by 2 – 2.5 metres resulted in the islet being cut off from the land.

(12) ‘Shells’ are pieces of clay objects, mainly pottery or tile, which are remnants of ancient civilisation.

(13) The islet is 12 miles south of Sounion, is 4.3 square miles in area and belongs to a Hydra family. On the barren ridges of the island, 23 wind turbines have recently been installed, with a total capacity of 73.2 MW, which can meet the annual energy needs of 40,000 households in Athens, saving 60,000 tons of oil per year.

(14) According to the Bible, Methuselah was the longest living human being, reaching the age of 969 years.

(15) The artistic signs, scattered in strategic places in Chora, are due to the initiative of the ‘Cultural Association of Chora Kythnos’.

(16) According to A. Mazarakis-Ainian, the Castle seems to have been inhabited since the Mycenaean period.

(17) ‘Decauville’ rails are a type of railway with portable, reassembled elements, used mainly in mines and industries.