I had a lot to be nostalgic about and remember from our first trip to Skyros: landscapes, monuments, hospitality and people. It was certain that a second trip would reveal a much more unknown and hidden face, unseen from the start.

So the second trip, a year after the first, started with great expectations. They were all exceeded. Skyros proved to be inexhaustible in exciting images and experiences. A place for true travelers.

A very charming cruise

On its route from Kymi to Skyros the ship passes off Skyropoula. However, the distance is such that it is difficult to make out details of the uninhabited small island. Thus, Skyropoula remains mysterious, a massive cone that keeps its secrets well hidden. With the glamour of the undiscovered, then, it is high on our touring priorities.

– On your next visit your wish will be granted.

This was stated in June 2012 by Maria Athanasiadou, on our first trip to Skyros. And, as it turned out for the umpteenth time, Maria always kept her promises and promises.

The departure from Pefkos

The last day of April dawns sunny, with a lively breeze. Which bodes well for ideal sailing conditions. Because our visit to Skyropa will be the old, traditional way of travel, with sails.

We meet our captain, Eftihis Katsarelia, at the bay of Pefkos, one of the most idyllic western beaches of the island. Here, apart from the natural environment, we are impressed by the works of the people. There is the small pier in the cove, which instead of being made of cement, is made of the most authentic material of nature, the stone. And even the colourful marble stone or the stone with the green shades of Skyros. All the stones are exquisitely chipped and with dimensions that refer to masonry walls of cyclopean, ancient times.

Here is the sailing boat “ALWAYS SUMMER” of Eftichis moored. With a length of 50 feet, the boat has the capacity to sleep 12 and carry 25 passengers. The order and cleanliness everywhere is exemplary.

11:00′. We sail from Pefkos, initially with the help of the engine. A breeze is blowing from the west with an intensity of about 3 Beaufort. A little later, as we go offshore, it reaches and exceeds 4 Beaufort. Eftichis turns off the engine, turns on “genoa” and “max” and the boat gains an average speed of 7-8 knots.

We pass Agios Fokas and continue west towards Renia (1). As we approach the small island, we sometimes notice a sudden increase in wind intensity. The phenomenon lasts only a few seconds, but it is enough to bring the left side of the boat very close to the water surface, almost to the railing.

– They are caves (2), Eutyches explains, created by the Rhine, despite its small volume.

11:35′. We sail along the north-northwestern edge of the island. It’s sheer rock, overgrown with long vegetation, schist and cedar trees.

12:00′. The SE coast of Skyropoula is 300-400 meters away. In front of them are treacherous, particularly dangerous shoals.

– These shoals have eaten many boats, Eutyches comments and picks up the sails. We bypass the shoals and in a few minutes we reach the southern part of the island.

Cyrogyria: Unexpected, unparalleled beauty

We enter the cove of Skyropoula. We greet the fisherman in a kayak with a pineapple on board. Above the rocky shores the verdant slopes begin.

The density of the vegetation is such that it seems impenetrable. To the east of the cove is the half-ruined silhouette of a stone building and a wooden hut.

One could perhaps assume that this is where the attractions end. In reality, however, they haven’t really started yet. As we approach the center of the cove, the bottom becomes shallow and completely sandy. White as it is, it gives the placid waters such a bright turquoise color that is very rarely seen.

And while we should dive in and indulge in the magic of this wet paradise, we, instead, choose the difficult path of exploring the island. We take the small inflatable boat to the shore.

Heading north, we follow a subtle path, which is quickly closed by dense bushes in the bed of a gully. We ascend in search of a passage through a hedge. Further up, the picturesque chapel of Panagia is preserved, stone-built, tiled but with much damage.

We are following a rough and uphill course. Suddenly we come to a clearing at the north end of the island. The ground is almost bare, with innumerable stones and sparse bushes of ash and thyme. A narrow hedge, a ‘juggernaut‘ (3) is faintly outlined. We follow it parallel to the edge of the steep coast. It is a formidable crag, which from a height of about 140 meters ends at the north end of the island. The scenery is spectacular, with the appearance at the base of the cliff of a spectacular sea cave.

13:30′. One hour after our departure we are at the concrete bollard of the G.Y.S., at the highest point of the island (4). To the W-SW is a deteriorated concrete hut, used as a shepherd’s hut. Next to it is a cistern for collecting rainwater. We gaze for a while at the pelagic horizon, the massifs of Evia and the surrounding islands. We are very satisfied that, despite the rough terrain, we have found ourselves at the highest point of this unknown island.

On the way back we decide to follow an imaginary straight line – shorter as we believe – in an E-SE direction. Very quickly we regret it. There are no passages, the solid mass of the jungle can only be opened with a chainsaw. 15 minutes later, the battle with the jungle is unequal.

14:30′. With a hot sun and zero water reserves, we finally reach the shore. Skyropyla has no more to give us.

Uninhabited islands and an attractive coastline

14:45′. We reluctantly leave the turquoise paradise of the cove. With the weather being a bit choppy, we set sail for the south of Skyros. It’s a quiet, swift, enjoyable sail.

We bypass Rineia and continue to Valaxa. Second in size after Skyropoula, Valaksa or Balaksa (1), is a massive, elongated dry island, with rudimentary vegetation and completely rocky shores. The southern part in particular is completely bare.

15:45′. Between Valaxa and Skyros are the rocky islets “Diavates” (2) and between them the smaller islet “Plaka“. Two pairs of ‘Mavropetrites‘ appear for the first time. They are the famous Falco eleonorae, which fly with manoeuvres and speeds of awesome speed.

16:00′. We sail along the end of the SW coastline with the “Vales“, two neighbouring coves. Although the land is generally barren, there are several olive trees in the gullies and low vegetation. After the Bales we pass the massive peninsula “Marble“. The sharp tip of the cape is succeeded on the N horizon by a curved coastline. It is the spectacular bay of “Three Boukes“, a wide spit of land, protected by two natural breakwaters: first the low-lying islet “Platia” (3) and then the larger Sarakinos (4). Between these two islands and on the sides surrounding the bay are the three successive channels, which have given the bay the name ‘Three Boukes’.

16:40′. On the southern coast of Saracenos the terrain is steep, with reddish, rocky formations.

– “In these inaccessible cliffs nest Blackfeet,” says Eutyches.

As confirmation, several appear in the blue background of the sky. As the cliff complex ends, the coast forms a deep recess. It is the narrow cove of Glyfada, which, apart from the southerly winds, is completely sheltered from all weathers.

We drop the anchor in the cove. The seabed is revealed white and sandy. And here, as in Skyropyla, the waters are endowed with exotic transparency and turquoise colour. We can’t resist. On April 30, we dive from the boat and experience the thrilling experience of the cold but magical waters of Sarakinos.

Meanwhile on deck there are interesting developments. Tsipouro, Skyrian gruyere, and Maria’s dolmades, some of the most delicious we’ve ever tasted.

The good times go by quickly. At 18:00′ we raise the anchor from the bottom of Glyfada. We complete the southern part of Sarakinos to Cape Kailes, a reddish limestone at least 100 meters high. We come across sea caves, while on the dizzying heights of the cliffs we admire the flights of many Mavropetrites.

We sail along the eastern coastline of Saracenos. As we ride along the cape, the unseen -until now- third channel, the third “bocce” of the homonymous bay, is revealed. Opposite, the southern coast of Skyros with the bay “Renes“, a narrow parenthesis with gentle slopes, between the steep coasts.

– From Renes starts a rough path, which ends at the cape “Lithari”, says Eftihis. It’s worth finding a local to guide you there. You will see one of the most impressive lighthouses of the Aegean. Today we will see it from the boat.

We pass under a vertical rock, which looks like it has been cut with vertical axes. Two silhouettes of goats stand out clinging to the sheer cliff. These incredible acrobats-climbers of the Greek cliffs deserve every admiration for their daring and daring, these incredible acrobats-climbers of the Greek cliffs.

We reach a sea cave with two entrances, called “Tripiti“. Caves and coves alternate constantly with cliffs, caves and flights of Blackfeet. Wonderful pictures, impossible to get bored.

18:40′. We are approaching Cape “Lithari“, with the lighthouse. Built with chipped stone in 1894 it still stands proudly in this most remote cape of the island. We can already see the carved path from the pier to the lighthouse. Higher still, on the rugged cliffs, the winding path from the Renes also stands out.

– Those suffering from acrophobia have no chance there, Eftichis comments.

Immediately after Cape Lithari the protection of the land ceases. A strong wind finds us from the N-NE, with a speed exceeding 16 knots. From one moment to the next the sailing of the boat acquires new characteristics, much more dynamic. The eastern coastline is becoming equally inhospitable. After the bay of Chochlakas we meet the cape of Mytis Grias and Cape Limnonari. On the completely steep slope we remember from the previous year the successive hairpin bends of the road, which descended with terrible gradients over the coast.

The next one hour reveals small and large bays and coves, sea and land caves, successive gorges and canyons, which sometimes gently and sometimes steeply, end up on the coast. We recognize several points of last year’s hiking routes, the beautiful little church of Agios Artemis and the gully of the Gaiduropotamos in the bay of Nyfaki.

20:00′. Exactly 9 hours after our morning departure we enter the spacious marina of the large natural bay of Achilli.

– Today you have experienced more than half of the wildest Skyria coastline, says Eutyches. The rest of the northern part, with its tame sandy beaches, you will get to know next time.

The ascent to Kochilas

From a distance, Kochilas looks heavy and friendly. Slopes tolerable, blunt top, without the wild tips of other peaks. The ascent, then, to 792 metres of the summit seems a simple affair.

– I think we don’t need a guide, I say to Maria. We‘ll manage on our own.

– I’ve heard it’s a tough mountain. That’s why I secured the best guide. He is George Koukis, the pioneer of all the trail markings that have been done on the island.

George Koukis, from Avlonari, Evia, has a long international mountaineering and climbing experience and a great love for the mountains. With the voluntary participation of some local nature lovers, he tries to highlight the unseen peculiarities of the island.

We set the departure time as 7am.

From Agios Modestos to “Marouliko”

I wake up at 5 in the morning, long before the alarm clock goes off. It seems that in my sleep, I was dreaming of long lines instead of chickadees.

Once it gets to light up, the time of departure is approaching. We head towards the southern part of the island. At a distance of 13.7 km from the hotel NEFELI we meet a rough dirt road on the left. 300 meters later it ends in front of the chapel of Agios Modestos, built next to a paddock. A few huge holly trees cast a thick shadow. I move to put the car underneath.

– Don’t try it, George tells me. The goats will climb on it to reach the branches.

07:45′. We start from Agios Modestos, at an altitude of 205 meters, heading NE. The markings, on stone and maple trunk, are blue rhombus on a white frame. There is an additional wooden sign with the number 3. It is overgrown with plenty of stones but the path is passable and gently sloping. The ground is overgrown with thyme and dwarf holly, which failed to grow tall because of the goats.

08:00. We cross the narrow and shallow ravine bed vertically. A strong grass finds us face to face. It will quickly become an important ally against the heat. A few minutes later we start climbing continuously, without the usual comforting manoeuvres. We adjust our pace and arm ourselves with patience. I observe the landscape around us. All the folds of the terrain, all the ruts and gullies, project lush green among the barren slopes. This magnificent sight is due to the healthy clusters of the famous maples of Skyros. These are the Acer sempervirens maples, unique in the Aegean. Their shady clumps are an important habitat for both the wild birds that nest there and some rare plants that grow in the shade.

Half an hour after its start, the steep climb ends. We are already at an altitude of 490 meters. We are greeted by fierce gusts of grass. We find temporary shelter in a sweet ravine with a beautiful maple forest.

For the first time, Kochilas is revealed to the north, with the concrete pillar of the top visible. For a while we climb up a rough path between thorny astivias, called “astves” in the Dogrian dialect. To the east, opposite Kochyla, the curved ridge of Vuvas, which, at 723 metres, is the second highest of the “Mountain“, can be seen. In front of us lies a long plateau. It is the “Marouliko“, which is inserted between Kochilas and Vuva.

On the rough top

After the climbs, the course on the smooth plateau is faster and more pleasant. Besides, the constant visual contact with the summit has a positive effect on everyone’s psychology. A small flock of sheep suddenly pops out of the skies. At our sight they are walking away, with a speed that would make goats envious. A large wooden sign indicates the times to Vuvas (0:50′), Kohila (0:50′), Ag. Sotera (4:00′) and Kalamitsa (4:30′).

In N direction we cross the Maroulikos. Very quickly a rough uphill begins. The signposting disappears completely, but there is no path visible either. We look for our way through the goat tracks, strewn with badgers and sharp stones.

09:45′. Two hours after our departure we arrive at a small neck, at the SW foot of “Panoftis“. The altimeter reads 730 m. The spot is an unexpected oasis of green and shade in a dense cluster of maple trees.

We relax in the coolness. The minutes tick by, the departure for the summit is constantly postponed. George is the first to get up and gives the signal for the final stage of the climb. It’s a head-on route from the NE side of the summit, with a steep slope and rocky, loose and slippery terrain.

A ten minutes later we reach the “Panofti” of Kochilas, next to the bollard of the G.Y.S. The altimeter shows 790 meters. And the time taken from Agios Modestos is exactly 2 hours and 20 minutes (with 20 minute stops in between). Full of joy we shake hands. We have every reason to be satisfied. George because he brought up another group, safely to Kochyla. The two Skyrian ladies, Maria and Anna, because they conquered the top of their island. And Anna and I, because we are fulfilling a goal that was very desirable from our first visit to Skyros.

The whole island is at our feet and the horizon of the sea is all around us. Up here, however, we are not alone. A mighty gale, colder than ever, compels us to seek refuge on the southwestern slope of the peak. But what bliss of vision is this! The bay of “Three Boukes“, the most emblematic of Skyros, is revealed in a plan of unparalleled beauty. From no other part of the island can one perceive with greater vividness the wondrous geography of the bay with its three channels, the ‘three bouquets’.

10:40′. The dream ends. The return to the rough mountain terrain begins. That plague us with sharp rocks, whitewash and a complete absence of signs or trail. Without George leading the way, our suffering would have been much greater.

11:30′. From the opposite ridge a unique view to the west is revealed, with Skyropoula in the distance, the massive Balaxa and other small islands. In front of us the plateau of “Askalas” and to the NE the narrow path that leads to “Pai“, the characteristic rock that dominates over the -familiar to us from last year and so dear to us- Agios Artemis.

– From that chapel another route to the top begins, says George. But it’s very demanding, in some places you almost have to climb.

11:45‘. We reach a ravine, where the “Konatsy” (small house) of Mavrogiorgis is located, with a dry stone hut. A short stop in the shade of one of the largest and most beautiful maple forests.

– Get ready for a new extravaganza, says George.

We get back on the path and, a few minutes later, we open our eyes wide. Just below us, the wide embrace of the bay of Kalamitsa and then all the western islets, Diavates, Balaksa, Rineia and Skyropyla, spread out with incredible splendour.

– And to think that in the area of Kochyla, with such a special natural beauty, which is also classified as “NATURA 2000”, it was proposed to install a wind farm with more than 100 wind turbines, says George. Nobody, of course, is against renewable energy sources. It’s just that the barren ridges of Balaxa and other uninhabited islands were proposed for installation.

We descend a winding path with a protective wall, very rough but perfectly visible and sunken in the shade of large maple trees.

– You see that low, that white marker? That’s “Panagia Dihounia“, says George. That’s where we’ll drink the nicest water.

12:40′. Two hours after our departure from Kochyla we arrive at Dichounia, named after the two “hunes”, the two gullies that furrow the slope. Built in the shade of a century-old gorchia tree, the beautiful little village overlooks the vastness of the sea from an altitude of 275 metres. But what makes it so beloved and desirable is the stunning water that gushes up next to it from the depths of the rugged mountain.

We relax in the shade. Only a little effort and time separate us from the finish point of the route, in the bay of Kalamitsa.

– On this western slope of Kohilas there are many springs, more than any other place on the island, says George. But the water of Dichounia, I believe, is the best in Skyros.

We all drink with unquenchable longing the last gift of Kochilas to the travellers of the rough slopes and paths.

13:00′. We leave our blessedness in Dihounia. In 5 minutes we cross a stunning “houni”, a gully with a dense and extensive forest of beautiful oleander trees, just days before they bloom.

13:45′. We are on the asphalt road, at the northwest starting point of the path, in front of the sign with the informative map of Skyros. With total stops of 1 hour we have completed the circular route from Agios Modestos in exactly 5 hours. If I were to say that we feel happy, it would not be an exaggeration at all.

We would like to thank George Koukis, without whose presence we could hardly have accomplished this difficult task. We renew our meeting for the next challenging trail to Fanari, at Cape Lithari.

The path of the Lighthouse

– If we don’t start in a few hours, the night will take us, says George Koukis. The lighthouse is not next to us.

Afternoon. We take the road south again. Our destination this time is the famous Lighthouse at Cape Lithari. 500 meters after the fork for the Brooke monument we meet a dirt road that descends towards the “Renes“. Two kilometres later we continue on foot, first on the dirt road and then on a rough path.

17:25′. We arrive at the pebbled beach of Renes and climb in an easterly direction. The trail is narrow and rocky, but more friendly than Kohila’s.

– I don’t see any particular difficulties, I say to George.

– Don’t be in a hurry, we’re still at the beginning.

For 15 minutes we keep climbing uphill. Sage and thyme, fragrant everywhere.

17:50′. We go out at an altitude of 140 meters, on gentle slopes. Three horses appear, free, independent and beautiful. To the east, we see the outcrops of Fanoftis and Plaka. We’re already crossing the plateau “Araagades“.

– “We’ll detour for a while,” says George and turns south. I think the views we’re going to see are worth the detour.

We follow in his footsteps. The already rudimentary path disappears completely. The path evolves into a constant search for our way through the solid mass of asters.

18:20′. We go out to the extreme points of steep slopes. The awesome rock of Cape Kastelli gives us a spectacular sight. Equally impressive are the vertical flights of the legendary Blackfeet. Among them stands out a different raptor. It’s a vulture! Anna captures its flight with her powerful telephoto lens (1).

Before we return, we gaze at the familiar outline of the lighthouse at Cape Lithari. We ascend a rugged slope, with jagged rocks. Every step needs attention.

18:50′. The uphill ends, we reach a neck. From an altitude of 220 meters we look down at the lighthouse. Its floor plan is impressive. However, between us there is a narrow path, carved into the terrible slopes of the cliff.

– If one suffers from acrophobia, it is better not to follow. But whoever decides to do so, says George, I will always be by his side for any help.

The situation is not so dramatic. The most difficult part is a passage of about sixteen meters, very narrow, on the abysmal slope.

19:05′. 1:40′ after our departure from Renes we are at the Lighthouse Lithari, at an altitude of 85 meters above the surface of the Aegean Sea.

According to graduate student Stavros Papazoglou: ‘the lighthouse was erected at the end of the 19th century (1894) at the time of the reconstruction of the Greek lighthouse network. In the lighthouse, lighthouse keepers worked for almost a century. During this century, the history of the lighthouse was inextricably linked to the history of Skyros and its inhabitants.

Today it bears significant damage and deterioration due to lack of maintenance and seismic activity. Its restoration and putting it to a new use could significantly increase its visitor numbers and make it a tourist attraction for the island“.

Regarding the accessibility of the lighthouse, the researcher mentions that at the end of the 19th century the path started from Chora and crossed Kochilas to Renes beach. The journey then lasted from sunrise to sunset, when the weather conditions did not allow the sea crossing.

We admire the huge rectangular lighthouse, with dimensions of 6.90 x 10.80 meters and a height of 7.30 meters. It is the only two-storey lighthouse from its construction.

In the area there is also the small building that was used as a stable, as well as the two cisterns, which collected rainwater from the roof of the building.

19:15′. A few minutes before the last rays of the sun disappear, George gives the signal to return.

– We have to speed up, we’ll just barely make it to the light.

I don’t disagree with him, but how do you speed up the calvary?

The march of return becomes a relentless chase of time, to catch the last light that is getting thinner and thinner.

20:40′. In 1 hour and 25 minutes we pass like a whirlwind through the Renes and ascend the rough path that leads to the dirt road.

20:55′. In 1 hour and 40 minutes we are in front of the car in deep darkness. The only source of light is some faint reflections over the mountains.

South Skyros: the exploration continues

As we head south from Skyros Town, we come across a cluster of tamarisk trees along the road. Which, of course, would be nothing special if under the sparse shade some of the strangest stones of the Skyrian land did not adorn the ground. They are stones of dark-coloured limestone, of striking dimensions. Much more impressive are their shapes with multiple holes, which with patience and abundant imagination nature has carved over the centuries.

– Last June there were none, says Anna. Who put them here?

– Who else?Maria exclaims. George Makris, of course, that Skyros lover, who erected the now famous stone horse at the foot of Kochyla, which adorns your cover (1). And which, since the magazine was published, has become something of an emblem of Skyros, as many visitors seek it out and take pictures with it.

We wander for a while on the beach of Aspous. It is a large sandy bay before Achilli. Well-kept accommodation, crystal clear sea with a friendly bottom, and minimal traffic, make it an ideal environment for a family holiday.

We go out to the long beach of Kalamitsa. Fine pebbles, sandy beach and crystal clear waters, one of the most popular swimming destinations on the island.

We continue along the coastal road and after the Nifi spring, we meet a dirt detour to the right. We bypass the “sikano“, the protective gate of the fence and we reach the bay of Kolymbada. Colorful pebbles, clear turquoise waters. A lonely house and absolute solitude. The massive outline of Balaxa rises openly in the west.

Continuing on the main road network we meet a second dirt road. It leads us to the beautiful, flat area “Voukolina. Stannis with giant sheep, small souvala with brownish-yellow water, a very idyllic place.

At the Rupert Brooke Memorial

We get back on the asphalt and 4 km later we meet the fork to the Skyros Naval Station and the tomb of the English poet RUPERT BROOKE.

We find the monument one and a half kilometres down the road, on the left of the road. It is marble and simple, in the cool shade of a centuries-old olive grove. Next to it, a gully with a stony bed, completely dry at this time of year, descends from the mountain.

But who was Rupert Brooke? And why is he resting on this remote spot on Skyros?

The philhellenic poet was born in 1887 in Rugby, England and died on 23 April 1915 in Skyros, at the age of 28.

Brooke, at the outbreak of World War I, volunteered. In fact, his acquaintance with Winston Churchill prompted him to choose the Royal Navy. He initially took part in the Battle of Antwerp. Later, the military squadron to which he belonged arrived at the ‘Three Boukes‘ bay of Skyros, preparing to take part in the Dardanelles campaign against the Turks.

On the evening of April 20, 1915, Brooke fell ill from an infection caused by a mosquito bite. He was then transferred to a French hospital ship sailing in the Three Buccas. Despite the efforts of the doctors, however, Brooke breathed his last on the afternoon of 23 April 1915.

The poet’s most famous poem, “The Soldier“, written in the last months of 1914, is inscribed on his grave. After the Second World War! After World War II, the tomb was erected by the poet’s mother. Rupert Brooke was a special figure for the Scyrians, who created Brooke Square in the Chora, near the chapel of the Holy Trinity. There, in a prominent place, a statue dedicated to the poet’s eternal poetry and memory has been erected. The statue is the work of Tobrou, who had the dancer Alexandros Iola as his model. The unveiling of the statue, which took place on 5 April 1931, was attended by the then Prime Minister of Greece, Eleftherios Venizelos.

Today there is in England the “RUPERT BROOKE SOCIETY”, which organises literary evenings in his memory.

Roman Marble Quarry

After the Brooke monument we continue towards the Skyros Naval Station. Here we are greeted with great courtesy by the Commander of the Shipyard, Michael Alexandreskos, who leads us to the adjacent area of the ancient Roman quarry. It is an extensive area, with funnels and steep slopes, ranging in altitude from 50 to 80 meters above sea level. Scattered among the sage scented everywhere, there are scores of half-worked architectural elements, columns and rectangular boulders. The raw material used is marble, colourful or white. The colour variety of the marbles is astonishing. In a single column, we can observe simultaneously colour tones of grey and white, yellow, brown and brick red, in harmonious combinations of a kind that only nature can create. Elsewhere, veins in shades of green and crimson are interspersed.

We take the dimensions of many architectural members. The largest we find is a column broken in half, 6 meters long and 1.10 meters in diameter. This last column, if we accept an average value of 2.5 for the specific gravity of marble, must weigh 14 tons! Even by today’s standards, quarrying, carving, transporting to the coast and loading onto a ship is not the easiest task. In this case, the stonemasons of the time were unsuccessful. Perhaps through some misguided attempt, the column failed and was cut in half. Some of these most representative remnants of the island’s Roman past, there is a thought of moving them to a prominent position, so that they may be exposed to the view and admiration of Scyrians and visitors alike.

Skyros from the top of Ai-Lia

A hill with a perfect conical shape rises in the centre of the island. At the top of the hill dominates the white-white chapel of St. Lia of “Psle“, the tall one, as the Skyrians call him – to distinguish him from the others. Built at an altitude of 294 m, the chapel oversees everything. We also wanted to see what Ai-Lias is gazing at. Our good friend and timid hiker Anna Andreou, known by her nickname Adriadakou, is willing to accompany us.

From the main road -after the beach of Aspous- turn left towards Achilli and Kalamitsa. 770 meters later we meet a concrete road on the right. After this we climb steeply in a south-west direction. The path continues winding, between sea urchin and lobster trees. Later on, you will see firs and, even higher up, dwarf holly, because of the goats. The trail is obvious and the marking is satisfactory, with white oil paint. Now and then we open “sikana”, the familiar wire gates in the fences.

40 minutes after our departure we find ourselves in front of the white silhouette of Ai-Lia. All around the view is stunning: to the Castle of Skyros, north to the forested Olympus and south to the bare Kochila, low to Kalamitsa and Achilli. On the western pelagic horizon the low ridge of Rineia and in the distance Skyropyla stand out.

As the sun sets, a cool breeze begins to blow. Our friend Anna, with the usual devotion of the islanders, lights the Santa Claus candle and burns incense around it.

The return takes no more than 25 minutes. But be careful: don’t get carried away by the white signs at the end of the route, because they will lead us to the rough fence of the house there.

Short tours in the north of the island: a vineyard in the middle of nowhere

– Do you want to see a vineyard? asks George Koukis. We have a partnership with my friend, Stamatis Nikolaou.

We start from NEFELI, heading west. We cross the gully of Ferecampos and reach the area “Paraspisi“, at the foot of Mount Olympus. Endless pine forests of pale pine cover the slopes. We wonder where the vineyard is.

Suddenly, a clearing is revealed at an altitude of about 250 meters. The ground is slightly sloping, windward, sheltered from the north wind. It’s an idyllic place. The 13 hectares are planted with geometrical precision with vineyards of asyrtiko and some noble French red and white wine varieties. The soil surface, completely free of grass and stones, reveals the care and passion of the two friends.

– There is a lot of work here, says George. We hope the results will do us justice.

We observe our friend’s shoes, strange, original and – beyond any doubt – handmade.

– These are the “trochadia” of Skyros which, as far as I know, do not exist elsewhere. The sole is made of car rubber and the rest of the sole is made of calfskin.

– And why are they called wheels?

– Because, as they are curved at the bottom, they force you to walk with your toes, as if you were running. The first few days I had some difficulty adjusting, but then I didn’t want to take them off.

– Who manufactures them on the island?

– The art is mastered by most shepherds. But the top craftsman is Dimitris Varsamos, better known by the nickname “Kapsokardis“. He is worth getting to know.

On forest roads we reach the bay of Agios Petros, one of the northernmost bays of Skyros. Here, after the pine forest, extensive sand dunes with cedar trees begin, ending in a sandy beach with fine pebbles and clear waters. The scenery is completed by sharp rocks with strange shapes and, in the distance, the rocky island of ‘Podies‘.

The wheels of Kapsokardis

– The man’s main occupation is earthmoving, not wheeling, says Maria. However, we will ask him to show us around the stages of the construction of the wheel.

In the plain of the airport, in North Skyros, we find the “konatsis”, the rural residence of Dimitris Varsamos. Which for his friends is “Kapsokardis“. He welcomes us in his shady courtyard, which thanks to a little borealis is kept cool. We drink Greek coffee. Scattered everywhere are car tires, whole or in pieces.

– Are the tyres PIRELLI?I ask with a mood of space.

– How did you know? asks Dimitris, surprised. Yes, it’s all PIRELLI.

– And why is it PIRELLI?I ask, even more surprised myself.

– Because they are the only ones left with inner linen. All the others have wire, which doesn’t work for the wheels. As you can see, the tread is worn to be thin, otherwise it’s too heavy. Unfortunately they are hard to find nowadays. So I feel like placing a special order with PIRELLI.

We thus know one of the two materials necessary for the construction of the wheels. The other material is calfskin. That’s also unpalatable.

– Most of the factories have closed, says Dimitris. Here, I found this leather in Chania. And it’s not cheap.

Our friend takes his place at the table, brings a piece of rubber and rests it firmly on it. With a cutter he begins to round the corners, giving the rubber a sole shape. His movements are quick and sure, with wondrous precision. I wonder how many times he’s made these same movements.

– Thousands, countless times, considering that I’ve been rolling since I was 15. Ever since I was a kid, I’ve loved watching my grandparents. That’s how I quickly learned the art. But even now, after all these years, I can’t stop thinking about improvements.

We follow the stages of the construction of the wheel. First is the correct cutting of the tire. One cut for the work wheels and another for the good, “scoliana” wheels. Then comes the drilling of the holes, along the sides: six on the inside and five on the outside. To these holes is applied the “anastole“, the small strip of leather with the two holes. From there the long leather strips are passed through, which, as sewn, form the frame of the wheel. To gain elasticity, the strips must be soaked in water at least half an hour before.

– The length of the lane varies from lane to lane, says Dimitris. Empirically, we calculate it by the rage of the person ordering the lane.

Speaking, he does not stop “sewing” the wheel, gradually giving it its final form. At each stage of the work he uses a special tool: pliers, a cutter, a hammer or a screwdriver. Very original and functional is the anvil, a patent of his own with an iron holder on the back of the chair.

– Does the client have to be present during the construction of the wheel? asks Anna.

– Not necessarily. But when he is present, the application is more successful, since he can occasionally test it, so the tightening of the heel or the straps can be adjusted accordingly.

– How long can a trolley wheel last?

– It depends on the use. Here, I’ve been wearing these for a year and they’re as good as new. But if any part of them, reflector, strip or anything else, gets worn or cut, they can be replaced. Wheels are the only shoes with replacement parts.

One by one the successive sections are finished: ready the “haline“, the whole knitting, ready the “cross“, the front binding, and the heel binding, the “flap“. The piece of leather that covers the front of the foot, the ‘scab‘, is also carefully fitted.

– The first one is ready, says Dimitris. Unfortunately, the couple has two. Well, until I start again, I think we should have a cigarette.

– We’d better not drink, we have to walk, says Maria. I just glance at her.

– Well, let’s have a little drink, he adds.

Wonderful tsipouro, wholemeal bread, gruyere and feta cheese from Skyros with a unique taste. A revelation is the goat, roasted with oil and wine in a huge pot, covered with dough, completely airtight.

– “I’m going to give you a present,” Dimitris says to Anna.

It bears a small stick, from one end of which four thin twigs, resembling mixer blades, protrude irregularly.

– Yes, you got it right, says our friend. It’s a hand mixer made of wild cork. Here we call it a “softener“. We use it to beat the fava beans to make ointment.

It is one of the most authentic gifts we have ever been given.

Laughter, clapping and cheers. The “konachi” of Kapsokardi is a true place of joy. And it would have been that way for many more hours, if George Koukis hadn’t suddenly called us on the phone. To remind us of our rendezvous with the Little and Big Agalipa, at the northwesternmost tip of the island.

Little and Big Agalipa: exotic, unseen beauty

The coves of Little and Big Agalipa are so small that they are only visible on a detailed map of the island. Departing from the small town of Dimitris to the west, we quickly come across the northern road, which leads to the well-known beach of Agios Petros. A little earlier we find on the left a very rough forest road, which ends after a while.

We take a gentle path through the pine trees. A few minutes later an unexpected sight is revealed. It’s a cove, perfectly sheltered, with transparent water the colour of emeralds. There is, however, something else that makes the picture unique. It is a wooden boat, eaten away by age and salt, leaning sideways against the edge of the shore.

– Turkish slave trade, explains George. He’s been here for over 10 years now, with about 80 Pakistanis. Since then, it’s been eaten up little by little by the salt and the waves of the mainland. One day they’ll cut it off. But let’s go for a walk in the Great Agalipa.

We return to the car and find to the north a second path that descends so steeply that some actions have been taken to assist the visitors: earthen steps and two ropes, tied securely to the trunks.

At the end of the downhill we are amazed by the creativity of nature. It has managed to combine in an amazing way the exotic, shallow and transparent sandy beach with impressive reddish rocks and healthy pine trees that balance over the water. It’s hard to imagine a coastal setting more beautiful than this.

Epilogue

– Would it be an exaggeration to say that you need a third, multi-day trip to Skyros?

– No, Maria. Skyros is a place for a lifetime. Our nostalgia has already begun, even before we leave the island.

Nefeli

Early in the morning, before everyone starts to wake up, I leave the terrace of the “Skyrian House”. A few meters further down I come across the “Rhodes Passage”. Which is nothing but a narrow passage with steps, created between the most beautiful, colourful and impressive rose trees. This passage is the most idyllic and romantic way to reach the courtyard of the NEFELI Hotel. Here, since June 2012, no change is visible. Always the same large, spotless swimming pool, the huge solid wooden tables, the many well-tended flowers and plants. However, some things in the flora of the facility seem to have changed.

– Yes, this year we started an effort to collect and plant the most representative species of the Skyrian flora, says the owner of NEFELIS, Yannis Eugenikos. Among other things, we planted anemones and wild orchids, lilies of the sand, black-eyed peas and chalapeños, as well as aromatic herbs such as oregano, sage, thyme, lavender, turmeric and many others.

– The rose bushes, have they grown too?

– Oh, of course, we added another 100, we have reached 44 different kinds of roses, John adds and continues with his pruning shears, caressing the most noble, the most noble flower. Then he takes the hose and pours precious water on their roots, now that it is morning and the sun has not yet risen (1).

It’s breakfast time by the pool, with the reflections of colourful flowers in the calm waters. These are beautiful moments, made even more exciting by the excellent, sumptuous buffet that Nefeli offers its guests every morning.

Nice tasty moments

As in June last year, we had exciting tasting experiences in Skyros this year. At the port of Linaria we met the restaurant-au-feu “Ivilai“, owned by George Filippaiou, who died last year. Here, George Tsakos prepared Cod Meatballs, an amazing culinary creation of his own inspiration. The crayfish with rice and the marinated cod were delicious. We particularly appreciated the local fava beans, from the very little that is produced in Skyros anymore. Excellent service and picturesque harbour atmosphere establish Ivilai as one of the most desirable dining destinations. Phone.

After the turn to the Airport we meet at the intersection of Chorafa – Molos the “Manolia“, the restaurant of George Varsamos. In a hospitable hall in winter and in a green garden in summer, the restaurant has been included in the “Agrotourism” programme since 1997, with its own cheese and meat products. It is a privilege to taste authentic local products in an environment with happy, smiling people. Among the many delicacies we picked out the lemon goat, the rooster and the goat stew. A surprise among the meats was the wonderful lobster pasta of the shop. Phone numbers.

On the way to the beach of Agios Petros, in the northernmost part of the island, we rested at the tavern of the same name. In the coolness of the forest, in the beauty of the countless flowers and far from any residential area we tasted delicious flavours of the local cuisine and excellent cheese and meat products produced by the family. An important detail is that the fresh, organic zarzavats one enjoys come from the stunning orchard that stretches in front of the shop.

Like last year, we appreciated the traditional cuisine and the friendly service at the Hassapotaverna “Passage” and the Fish Taverna “Asimenos“.

In Passage, very close to the Airport area, we rediscovered Marigoula‘s cuisine: the lemon goat with handmade spaghetti, the family’s meat and gruyere, fava, tarama and delicious oats, okra and beans.

In Asimeno again, on the main network of Chora-Linaria, we enjoyed our tsipouroki with Stratoula‘s snacks: marinated anchovies and octopus, fried zucchini and vine leaves and, of course, fresh fish caught from the family’s kayak in the morning.

THANKS

Thank you very much:

– Eftihis Katsarelia, for the unique experience of cruising with the wonderful boat “ALWAYS SUMMER“.

– Chrysanthi Zygogianni, from the Feel In Greece Tourist Services Office.

– Stavros Papazoglou, for his important information about the Lighthouse.

– Roula Trigou, from the Ornithological Society.

– George Koukis, for his decisive contribution to the hikes and guided tours in the most special and demanding parts of the island.

– The Commander of Skyros Naval Station, Michalis Alexandresco, Commander of the Naval Station of Skyros, Commodore PN.

– George Makris, who with his passion and his inspirations highlights the stone creations of nature on the island.

– My good friend Anna Andreou, my companion on all the rough paths.

– Dimitris Varsamos, the well-known “Kapsokardis”, a leading manufacturer of the famous wheels.

– Olga Lambrou – Fergadis for the loan of the photograph of the Virgin Mary in Skyropoula.

– The amazing hotel unit “NEFELI” and especially Yannis Efgenikos and Anna Koutsoupi, who together with their excellent partners, provided us once again with multiple services and excellent hospitality.

– Finally, we would like to thank Maria Athanasiadou and her daughter Catherine. Without their countless help and their touching interest, it would have been impossible to have such a pleasant stay, as well as the detection and recording of so many important peculiarities of the island.

Featured maps

α. SKYROS, 1:35.000, published by TERRAIN

β. SKYROS, 1:60.000, Anavasi, LIFE Skyros Project

NOTES

Cruise Module

Α. Cyropyla

1. The uninhabited islet of Renia or Erinia has an area of 0.530 sq. km. or 530 acres (N. Nezis, “ΓEΩΓΓΓΓΓΡΑΦIKHIKΓYΠYΛOPADEIA”, VOLUME 1, p. 215). Its length is about 1.700, its width is about 500 and its maximum height 22 meters (M. Stamatelatos – F.V. Stamatelatos, “GEOGRAPHICAL VOCABULARY OF GREECE”, VOL. 228).
2. Spiliada or Spiliada is a sudden, strong and transient gust of wind that blows from the land towards the sea.
3. It is the genistrata in the Skyrian dialect, from “σφαχto”, the animal. This is what Maria’s Skyrian friend, Anna Andreou, who accompanied us to Skyropyla, called the path.
4. According to M. Stamatelatos (C’ VOLUME, p. 153) the altitude of Skyropoula is 163 meters, its shape is circular with a diameter of about 2.5 km. and its area amounts to 3,775 square kilometers (3.775 acres). According to N. Nezis (VOLUME 1, p. 213), the altitude of Skyropoula is 184 metres and its total area is 3,851 square kilometres (3 851 acres).

Β. Uninhabited Islands

Shoreline

1. Valaxa or Balaxa according to M. Stamatelatos (VOLUME A’, p. 120) has an area of 5 square kilometers, a length of 5 and a maximum width of 1.5 km. The height is 219 m. According to N. Nezis (VOLUME 1, p. 212) it has an area of 4,350 square kilometers (4,350 acres) and a maximum altitude of 216 meters.
2. The two Diavates are the “Exo Diavatis“, with an altitude of 24 m. and the “Mesa Diavatis“, with an altitude of 26 m. (Stamatelatos, VOLUME A’, p. 223 and VOLUME B’, p. 215).
3. The islet Platia or Platy has a length of 1.300, a width of 450 and a maximum height of 38 meters (Stamatelatos, VOLUME C’, p. 81). The area of the island is 0.6 square kilometers (600 acres). (N. Nezis, VOLUME 1, p. 214).
4. The island of Sarakino or Sarakiniko or Despotis has an area of 3.5 square kilometres, a length of about 2,700, a maximum width of 1,600 and a maximum height of 131 metres (Stamatelatos, VOLUME C’, p. 130). According to Nezis (VOLUME 1, p. 213), the island has an area of 3.383 square kilometres (3,383 acres) and a maximum height of 133 metres.

1. South Skyros

1. It is the theme of the cover of issue 88, with the first feature on Skyros.
2. For patient explorers, of course, who have time to spare, the ideal approach is on foot.
3. Volume of this cylinder: 3.14 X (1.10 : 2)² X 6 = 5.6991 cubic meters X 2.5 = 14.24 tons.

1. The Lighthouse Trail
2. In fact, enlarging the image revealed a very fascinating detail: a tracking ring, which at one point in its life, a scientist placed on Ornio.
3. Diploma thesis presented in December 2011 at the National Technical University of Athens, entitled “PROPOSAL FOR THE RESTORATION AND REINSTATEMENT OF THE FARO IN THE LITHARI OF SKYROS”.