PENINSULA OF LICHADA

I observe on the map the elongated, slender trunk of Euboea, lying lazily between the Euboean and the Aegean. Its shores are privileged, receiving shrouds of two seas, so different in character from each other. Enclosed and introverted, the Euboeikos is usually serene and unruffled, with rare outbursts. Full of momentum and vitality in the Aegean, unpredictable and unruly, always ready to lose its calm with the first breaths of Levante and Graeco.

After so many visits to Evia, in cold, in heat, in snow or in rain, I feel at home in its territory. Yet it is so vast and complex that I feel as if I hardly know it, it always retains the charm of the unknown. Just as absolutely unknown was until now the Hersonissos of Lichada, the westernmost extension of the northern part of Euboea. Don’t ask me why. Like so many hundreds of places in Greece, Likhada has the misfortune – or perhaps the luck – of being located a few kilometres off a main road.

–This place is not a pass, that’s why it is not widely known, Kyriakos tells me. But it is a favourite destination for those seeking a peaceful holiday by mountain and sea, on beaches both vast and small, secluded, sandy or pebbled, with easy or difficult access. It is a place for true travellers who are fascinated by the quest. In short, it is a place for the magazine and its readers.

I didn’t need any more introductions. After all, for years, I have had complete confidence in my friend’s criteria.

THE FIRST MEETING

At the beginning of April, Kyriakos and I leave the Thessaloniki-Athens highway and, at the height of Pelasgia, we turn right and immediately left. 14 km later, in the nice little port of Glyfa, we catch up with the F/B as it prepares to sail for Agiokampos. Few cars yet, the tourist season is slow in Evia. The sea is – as usual – calm and the trip is short. In 25 minutes we are on the so familiar pier of Agiokampos. 8.5 km later, just before we enter the Baths of Edipsos, the familiar route comes to an end. A sign shows us on the right the direction to Agios Nikolaos, Yaltra, Ag. We are already moving on the coastal road of the bay of Edipsos, a flat area with a shallow sea, houses, fish taverns and several complexes with rooms to let.

Our coastal tour continues along the coast of Agios Nikolaos. It is an extensive beach that exceeds 2 km, sandy, with shallow crystal clear waters and easy access for the whole family. Its tourist infrastructure is remarkable, with some bars and tavernas and several units with apartments for rent. Built mostly in gardens with trees and flowers, they are particularly suitable for peaceful holidays. The place is overgrown with olive groves reaching down to the sea, while the ground is covered with abundant spring wild flowers. The traffic on the road is of course minimal and the lodgings are closed, but it is certain that the days of Easter will mark the beginning of their summer opening.

We are already heading towards the cove of the bay of Yalta, a sea sheltered from most winds and only slightly exposed to the breezes of lavender and salmon. The landscape briefly changes, olive groves and pine trees retreat inland. Along the coastline, bushy vegetation dominates, with many flowers and small wetlands with bogs. The composition of the coastline is also changing. Sand is becoming increasingly scarce. The water is still very shallow, of course, but is now covered by flat slabs and pebbles, making any attempt to enter the beach for swimming problematic. Olive groves again with a few age-old olive trees, boats and small yachts moored in the still waters, the churches of Metamorphosis of the Saviour and Agia Paraskevi, a bypass on the road to the interior, leading to fish farms.

–This is where the trunk of the Lichada Peninsula begins, Kyriakos tells me. It is at this point that we will end our perimeter tour so that we can get a full view of the entire coastline.

We abandon the sea level and climb slightly uphill. At each bend in the road the bay looms low and more panoramic. On some small slopes the first vineyards appear, of the many that once existed throughout the area.

About 13 kilometres after our initial detour from the main road network, we enter the first houses of the settlement of Yaltra.

–Before we reach the centre of the settlement, let’s go downhill for a while to the natural harbour of Yaltra, Kyriakos suggests.

On a narrow road through lush vegetation we reach the sea after one and a half kilometres. It is a sweet sandy embrace with fishing boats, boats and pleasure boats, a real gift of nature to holidaymakers and those who deal with the sea, professionally or recreationally.

Breakwaters and any other artificial protection structures are absent. The creek is an excellent shelter in itself, with an opening of no more than 300 metres. Its orientation and position in the bay of Yaltra make its waters calm and safe, exposed only to the north winds, which, of course, the short distance from the opposite shore does not allow them to become dangerous.

A fisherman casts his net offshore. The rhythmic noise of the slow motion of his oil tanker is the only one in the area at the moment. It doesn’t bother us – it’s perfectly in keeping with the coastal landscape. Several boats are out for maintenance. Some cottages a few caravans, an oasis is deserted. We leave the car and walk across the soft sandy beach to the edge of the creek. Here a small promontory forms, a rudimentary promontory. A few meters from the shore a mill rises up. It is the mill of the late actress Elsa Vergis, used by her as a residence and now by her relatives. From this point the view is stunning towards the Baths of Edipsos.

The sun is getting low. The sweet time of dusk becomes even sweeter in this serene place. We have lost all desire to continue the tour. So we sit and ruminate, just letting the time pass. Then we slowly make our way back. The sun disappearing behind the peninsula and a fisherman with his boat are the last images of the day.

The fall of the night finds us at the stunning guesthouse “VATERI”, on the high ground of the road to Chalkida, three kilometers above the lake. Here our good friend Yannis Blukidis awaits us with his so many hospitable family members. It is a great pleasure to meet after two years with these wonderful people. In the beautiful living room the fireplace is burning loudly. We, however, brave the night dew and take our seats on the lovely balcony, that magnificent balcony overlooking the North Evian Sea and the opposite coast of Sterea. With the unique quality products from Yiannis’ farm – tsipouro, wine, olive oil, olives and a host of other goodies – the hours pass peacefully and pleasantly, while the cold breaths of the north wind are offset by the warm presence of our friends.

THE TOUR CONTINUES

A cool breeze, majestic nature all around, birds, an exquisite breakfast at BATERI and off we go. But the atmosphere has lost yesterday’s clarity, a light haze covers the horizon.

Without stopping we reach Yaltra. In the rudimentary little square of the village there is a lot of traffic. On a Saturday morning, the elderly bask in the sun with a coffee in the cafes. Housewives and some passers-by make a stop at the fisherman’s open-air stall, on which the products of the local sea, cod, crayfish, squid and cuttlefish, are displayed. We take the narrow road to the main church of Agios Nikolaos. In the courtyard of the church is a modest Memorial to the Fallen. Behind the sanctuary, from an altitude of 150 meters, nice view to Edipsos and part of the coast of North Evia. At the SE end of the village is the smaller church of Prophet Elias, built in 1898. Around it are several houses of the early and mid-20th century, as well as a half-ruined and uninhabited one with a stone embossing and dated 1898. I am struck by an old stone tool at the base of the outside staircase of one house. It is a huge granite stone with a cylindrical shape, weightless weight and elaborate carving. The owner of the house tells me that it was used by the old people to crush olive oil.

A short stop for a Greek coffee. Wood stove inside, round iron tables, small wicker chairs. Austerity. There are only the essentials. The little café of Mrs. Angeliki is old, more than half a century old. Two old people sit next to us. The conversation turns to the wine of the Yaltras.

-The village was always famous for its wine, quantity and quality. They came and traded it from many places, says one of them. At the port of Yaltra I have caught up with ships loading wine for Andrianoupolis. Today the tradition is preserved, and the Cooperative even continues to operate. But the quantities have been dramatically reduced, the old wine has lost its reputation.

We buy some white and red from the tavern opposite. They are nice, but nothing can do justice to the glamour of the past.

Maybe it’s the batch or the year.

We’re heading down towards the Baths of Yalta. Along the route of about 3 kilometres, you will constantly see lesser vineyards on slopes or in olive groves. Some of them barely exceed 50 square metres in area. It is obvious that their product only covers the needs of the family.

The Loutra di Yaltra is a holiday resort, known for its thermal baths. A small harbour, fish taverns, a waterfront. Few people. Accommodation, cafes and taverns closed.

In a short time they will come to life.

The road continues to faithfully follow the coastline, whose main characteristics are for about two kilometres the absence of bays and sandy beaches. The route then leaves the coast and slopes slightly inland. Already in the north the landscape changes, gradually shedding the mild character of the continuous olive groves and the sea, becoming severe. This change is due to the solid mountain range, which, with a general direction from east to west, crosses the central part of the peninsula.

The highest peak is the steep ‘Xerosuvala’ with an altitude of 738 metres. The slopes are covered with pine trees, but several areas are covered with low vegetation and young pine trees, a picture that suggests that the forest was destroyed by earlier fires. During our route, many vertical rural roads cross the olive groves in the direction of the sea.

–Almost all of them end in secluded beaches, small or larger, with sand or pebbles and water of amazing quality, Kyriakos tells me. Swimming on these shores is a real pleasure and, even in the heart of the summer paradise, they are rarely crowded.

We start taking the dirt roads one by one, approaching ten in total. Most of them are passable by conventional cars and the average distance from the tarmac to the sea is no more than 200-300 metres. Some end up next to small cottages or caravans.

The quality of the coastline is truly stunning and access is easy. Some beaches even provide natural shade, with pine trees reaching down to the sea.

–This is the unseen side of the peninsula’s coastline, says Kyriakos. Fortunately, few people bother with such a quest. Most opt for the immediately visible and vast beaches, which we will meet below.

About two kilometers later on a pine-clad beach of high natural beauty, the facilities of the large hotel complex CLUB MED. begin, which is closed during this period. Crossing a pine forest we reach in 5 minutes the settlement of Agios Georgios. It is a holiday settlement that has developed on a large part of the coastline of the homonymous bay. The traffic here is brisk, the settlement has all the characteristics of a tourist destination with accommodation units, cafes, bars, tavernas and ouzo bars, many shops and a spacious waterfront. The fact that the port of Aghios Georgios is approached by F/B from and to the nearby opposite coast of Aghios Konstantinos contributes to this traffic.

From Ag. George there are two road options. The first one crosses the settlement and continues along the coast. After 5.5 km it ends at “Kavos”, the cape “Lithada”, which was known to the ancients as “Keinaion”. The second route crosses a pine forest inland and, after 4 km, leads to the community of Lichada.

The cape, which is the northwesternmost point of Euboea, is a sandy tongue of land that ends in a pointed tip, just opposite Lichadonisia. The sandy shoreline and calm waters around the tip of the cape initially give the impression that the conditions for swimming are ideal. But a glance at the sign placed by the Lichada Community reveals that “Swimming is prohibited due to dangerous sea currents”.

–Is the sign true or is it an exaggeration? We ask two amateur fishermen, with their rods stuck in a row on the sandy beach, patiently waiting for the thrill of a big fish on their line.

–Of course it’s true, they declare earnestly. Many people were in danger here, some even drifted away and drowned. The sea looks innocent, but it’s not. Around the nose, treacherous currents build up, pulling you out into the open before you know it.

Observing the surface of the sea, we try to detect its danger. It seems friendly and keeps its secrets well hidden.

However, some subtle wanderings in the open might indicate the existence of the sea currents, unseen to our eyes.

A BRIEF REPORT: HISTORY AND MYTHOLOGY

In the “ARCHIVE OF EVBICAN MELETS” (volume LA / 1994-95) the archaeologist Efi Sapouna-Sakellaraki gives an extensive description of the excavation at Kastri Lichada in 1994. In fact, part of the cape was submerged by the great earthquake of 427/26 BC, which is also mentioned by Thucydides. This submergence gave rise to the well-known Lichadonisia, just opposite the tip of the cape. Another explanation of the creation of the islands is, of course, the myth. When Hercules was in Keaion, D…… sent him and his companion Lichas a tunic dipped in the blood of Nestos, because she believed that with this potion he would regain his love. But the blood of the tunic began to burn Hercules. Then the hero, believing that Lichas had created the deadly tunic, hurled it from above into the sea, and the parts of his body were transformed into the islets bearing his name. Papadanis’ excavations in the area brought to light several marbles and various other findings, confirming the existence of a sanctuary of Cinnaeus Zeus. This sanctuary is mentioned by myth, by several ancient writers (Sophocles, Aeschylus, Scyllax, Stephan Byzantius) but also in a treaty between Eretrians and Istrians of 400 BC: “Annotate the treaties in a column, Eretrians with Amarinths, and Istrians on Cenaeus in the sanctuaries”. This is certainly not the origin of the name Keeneion. According to Hesychius, ‘κήνεον’ means ‘catharsis’. According to Sophocles’ commentator, it comes from Cinnaeus, the son of Elephorus or Euphorion. In another version, κήναιος means rocky. (not, of course, in the present, sandy form of the cape).

We observe opposite us the Strogyli and the Lichadonisia, overgrown and wrapped in mist. It is certain that a passage there will be of great interest.

From the cape we continue in a northerly direction along the asphalt route along the coastline. It is a stunning beach in almost a straight line with coarse sand and superb waters that deepen progressively and, unlike the waters of the cape, are perfectly friendly and reliable. With a length of 2.5 kilometres, many shady eucalyptus trees a few metres from the sea and scattered cottages, this vast coast of Lichada can be considered an ideal place for countless swimmers and amateur fishermen, who have dozens of rods nailed to the sandy beach.

THE REST OF THE NORTHERN COASTLINE

After 2.5 asphalted kilometres the coastal route continues on a dirt road. (On the right the asphalt road climbs slightly through an olive grove and after 5 km leads to the community of Lichada).

The dirt road is passable but with many annoying potholes. Coincidentally, the configuration of the coast changes. It ceases to be sandy and friendly, it acquires pebbles and pebbles. Four kilometres later we reach Cape Vassilina with its homonymous lighthouse. The structure is stone-built with excellent masonry. Around it the ground is flat, with plenty of flowers. To the west of the lighthouse, a cove with a gentle beach forms, like a pleasant little parenthesis among the overall inhospitable coastline. The only living presence in this wilderness is a dead amateur fisherman. Sitting on a chair with his rods pinned in front of him, he gazes out to sea, enjoying his waiting and solitude.

Immediately after the lighthouse, to the east, the coast becomes rocky and inhospitable again and the sea surface is disturbed by the grass. The route becomes exciting and tense. The narrow dirt road winds continuously between the rugged coast and the northern slopes of the Prophet’s Hill, which, steep and pine-covered, ends up in the sea. In some places the directness of the road to the coast is astonishing, separated by only 3-4 metres from the wave. And while there is no indication that the coastline will shed its rugged character, about two kilometres after the lighthouse, a wonderful creek suddenly reveals itself, filling us with peace. The dirt road curves and after a few meters it ends up on the coast. A large pine tree casts its shadow beside the sea. It is the ideal spot for relaxation.

We are located in the eastern part of the bay “Agapitos”, just opposite the beach of Pelasgia.

The waters are light blue, crystal clear and progressively deepening, while the coarse sand creates easy access. The site is idyllic, flat, with small olive groves, a cottage and a few caravans. A passable dirt road leads after 500 metres to the end of the bay. Here is the last point of the peaceful sea and gentle coastline. Immediately afterwards the stones start again, the coast becomes inhospitable. Even the weather changes, with a strong and chilly gravitational wind that we didn’t suspect from the interior of the bay.

We reset the odometer reading and continue on. At 600 metres a fork in the road leads uphill towards the interior of the peninsula.

We continue along the coastal path, now carved at a considerable height above the coast. Steep slopes, dense pine forest obscuring the view, we just suspect the existence of the sea. Only by boat can one have a view of the shoreline’s configuration.

At 2,4 km a fork on the left leads to a wide bay with the facilities of the fish farm “Evvoikos”. At 3,3 km a new fork leads to the same facilities. Already the quality of the road surface has improved dramatically.

At 7.0 km a new picture is revealed to our eyes. It is the stunning view of the Gulf of Yaltra with the natural harbour of Milos and further back Edipsos. Our tour around the peninsula of Lichada is coming to an end. A new fork leads uphill to the left towards the fish farms of “Nirea” in the bay “Marathia”. The road is already asphalted. We go downhill to the right and after a few hundred meters we meet the main road at the chapel of Metamorphosis Sotiros, a few kilometers before Yaltra. We thus complete a fascinating route, which, starting and returning from the Baths of Edipsos, covers a total length of about 60 kilometres.

Two minutes after the Baths of Edipsos we stop. At the edge of the road and on the edge of a cliff 40 meters above the sea is the “AGERI”, a café-restaurant, which at this point of B. Euboikos is probably the top balcony. Coffee at the open-air tables, reminiscing on the vastness of the Evian and the mountains of Sterea. Towards the west, the mountains of the Lichada Peninsula, wrapped in the mist. A yellow sun, dull and yellow, lowers behind the mountains and then disappears.

IN THE MOUNTAINOUS HINTERLAND OF LICHADA

Today’s tour is dedicated to the interior of the peninsula. The still prevailing apnea creates conditions hardly favourable for photographing distant shots. However, we retake the so delightful coastal route to Yaltra and Aghios Georgios admiring the colours and stillness of the sea. At the community of Lichada we stop for a coffee. A small and nice settlement, built amphitheatrically at the SW foot of the Prophet’s foot, with trees, flowers and several stone houses. The scattered large mulberry trees suggest the existence of sericulture, which flourished until the 1950s.

From the church of Panagia we climb uphill towards the mountain. First we head left towards Aghios Athanasios. At 400 metres the chapel stands out, in an idyllic location under century-old plane trees. Immediately afterwards, a passable dirt road climbs uphill to the right, crossing pine-clad slopes, with vineyards forming clearings in between.

900 metres after the church of Panagia we stop at a small plateau with giant holly trees. Just 40 metres from the road, on the edge of the slope, stands a ruined building. It is what remains of the Venetian Tower of Lichada, a section of wall on the W-NW side of the hill, 7 metres long and nearly 6 metres high. It is constructed with strong clay masonry more than a metre thick and consists of large stones and intermediate tiles with binding mortar. On the NE side of the tower only the base survives, which is no more than one metre high. All the other sides have collapsed and lie in stone piles.

From the altitude of 300 metres the view is panoramic, down low towards Agios Georgios and Lichada, Euboikos and Lichadonisia, Maliaco and Sterea and high up to the north to the steep and densely wooded peak of Profetilia. According to Th. I. Skouras, the strategic position of the tower allowed it to have a visual correspondence with another on the Boeotian coast, but also with the Kastria of the Lake and the Tower at Rovies.

We continue along the passable dirt road, which after 2 km branches off to the right towards the ruins of Paleochori and the chapels of Agios Ioannis and Panagia. We climb uphill to the left, always through dense and healthy pine forest.

5.7 km after leaving Lichada the road ends at the top of Profitilia. The chapel is small, whitewashed and dated on the lintel 1899. A few years ago it was all alone, gazing at everything around it. Today it is choked in a forest of antennas. However, between the gaunt iron behemoths and despite the haze the view is commanding to every point on the horizon. Seas, landmasses, small islands and capes, towns and villages, plains and snow-covered peaks, the whole panorama of Eastern Central Greece is all around us. We could stay up here for hours just gazing. But those antennas above our heads are not the healthiest environment. We’re going down. 500 meters down, at a left turn, Kyriakos asks me to stop.

–Come with me to see another picture, he says, and leads the way.

We walk 30 to 40 meters between pine trees and stumaris. In the rough terrain we find a rudimentary plateau that barely fits us. And then, to my astonished eyes, the magnificent image of the Aurora Canal is revealed low below. It is a strip of sea, vast in length, formed between the north-western coast of Evia and the opposite shores of Tragovounio, Glyfa, Pelasgia and Achladio. This blue vastness, which takes its colour baton from the deep green of the pine trees, occupies the entire field of view from east to west with a stretch of almost 180 degrees. Rarely does one have the chance to see such a spectacle from an altitude of 600 metres. But the atmosphere gives us away. Its clarity is not worthy of the grandeur of nature.

–Maybe some other time, Kyriakos mutters in frustration.

We continue our descent by car and at a distance of 1.7 km from the Prophet’s House we turn sharply left (with a deep waterfall) onto a forest road, next to a green meadow. Always passable, the forest road takes an easterly course with a permanent almost top view of the Oreon Fairway.

The natural environment is wonderful with pine trees, coumaris, holly trees, holly trees, and plenty of wild olive trees whose tender little tops, properly prepared with vinegar, are the famous “tsichiravla”, this well-known meze, which is so much appreciated in the Pelion and Volos region, as an accompaniment to tsipouro. With a bag in hand we are constantly collecting. Within a few minutes our fingers smell the peppery scent of the tender shoots.

At 3.8 km from the Prophetilia, a peaceful and beautiful landscape reveals itself. It is a wide plateau formed under the steep and densely forested western slopes of the Xerosuvala peak.

The shape of the plateau is roughly circular with a diameter of more than 200 metres. On its eastern edge there are the premises of a stable, while its most beautiful ornament is a huge and flowering wild juniper tree.

From the triangle formed on the plateau, take the northwest direction to the left. The road is flat and lovely, but its soft soil must get very muddy during the rainy season. As throughout the massif, the trunks of most of the pine trees are notched and the hanging bags are filled with resin.

We keep going downhill. We come across a watering hole with cool spring water and a nice gully with plane trees, some of them century-old. Further down reveals a new beautiful plateau, this time under the steep forested slopes of the Prophet’s Hill.

4.4 km after the tristrata we meet a fork. We turn left and after 500 meters we are on our familiar dirt network of the NW coastline, above the exquisite Agapitos Bay and opposite the Vasilina Lighthouse.

–We have two more transverse forest tracks left, crossing the peninsula from W to E and ending at Yaltra, Kyriakos tells me. But let’s enjoy them next time.

Alas, none of us could have imagined at that moment what images we would see next time.

THE DAYS OF EASTER

Fascinated by the descriptions of the landscapes of the Lichada Peninsula, Anna suggests that we celebrate the days of Easter in the region. Our friend Yannis Blukidis from Vateri manages to secure a room for us at the last minute at the Hotel “ALEXANDRIDI”, which his sister Anna and her husband Alekos own in Rovies.

The hotel has a long tradition in the area, since it has been operating continuously since 1974! Its quality is excellent and is immediately visible in the rooms, services and hospitality, as well as in the amazing courtyard with the plane trees, the bamboo fences, the grass and the flowers. A children’s playground, of course parking space and direct access to the sea contribute even more to the overall pleasure of the guests, which is reflected in their enthusiastic comments in the book of impressions, already since January 1974. Some information, however, refers to a fire in the area of St. George.

Great Saturday, a joyful day. After the lamentation of the Epitaph everyone is looking forward to the Resurrection. The traffic on the streets is brisk, the lodgings are all open. In just twenty days the area has been transformed. Agios Nikolaos beach, Yaltra and Loutra, vineyards and olive groves, land and sea with the same everlasting beauty. We are getting close to CLUB MED. No sign of destruction yet.

–There was a small fire near the garbage dump, I tell Anna.

Shortly after the CLUB premises our eyes turn to the mountain. Next to and above the dump there are other colors in the forest besides green. It’s the brown and black of the burnt pine trees, which climb uphill to the north and disappear into a gully in the ground behind hills of lush green. I feel relieved, the fire has not advanced. We pass the hills and, as we approach St. George, the field of vision opens wide before us. The sight is incredible. Except for a few islands of green, all the southern slopes of the massif, up to the top of the Prophet’s Hill, are pitch black. I try to convince myself that what my eyes see is not real. Just a few days ago Kyriakos and I were enjoying the solid green surface, full of life and beauty. Now, man’s criminal irresponsibility has wiped out in a few hours what nature has created after so many years.

Lichada, Venetian Tower, here the forest endured. We are ascending the once magnificent route to the Prophet’s Hill. Images of disaster. Only the chapel and the antennas have remained unscathed by the fiery conflagration. We return. I look around and can’t utter a word.

–That extravaganza you were telling me about, where is it? Anna dares to say.

I stop at the bend and we start. Our feet sink into the ashes. The pines around are all black, the pine trees brown, the wildflowers gone. There is, however, still some sign of life. It’s the melodious calls of the birds. I wonder how they still linger in this still life all around them. As we reach the rough balcony and I look down, it is the first time I feel myself coming back to life. The entire north side of the Prophet’s Hill and the Lichada massif, those densely forested steep slopes that run down to the sea, remain exactly as I remember them, untouched by fire. Immediately after the green line, the long, narrow strip of the Orean Channel looms across the horizon, bluish and clear, without fog. It is the only image that, if only for a moment, distracts our thoughts from the gloomy reality.

We are heading for the highlands from Paliochori. The fire has also struck here, up to the rocky peak of Xerosuvala, but with less intensity. A few green islands remain scattered. We stop for a while on a small grass-covered plateau. Suddenly a thin column of smoke seems to rise from behind the bushes. We approach. It’s not ashes blown up by the wind.

ROMAN BATHS AND NEW ICONS OF THE HINTERLAND

I thought we had seen most of the Lichada Peninsula and that what remained was to get to know the Lichadonese. The place, however, had not said its last word.

In mid-May we returned. We first descend, once again, to the natural harbour of Yaltra. A sign beside the sea shows the direction to “BANIA”, the local name of the Baths. It is a 3.5 km route of good trafficability on the E coastal part of the peninsula, passing through cottages, olive groves and countless vineyards. It ends at the ‘Baths of Yalta’. In the centre of the beach, just below the tavern of Angeliki, warm thermal water flows into the sea with a rich flow. It comes from a natural spring in a well, a few meters above the road. 30 m after the tavern, a smaller quantity of hot water flows into the sea, passing through the baths above the road.

The local residents, Efstathios C. Papageorgiou and Angeliki Xangoni – Cortesi show us around the site, which, apart from the 7 cabins with bathtubs that operate during the summer season, is also of archaeological interest. Here, just above the cabins, were the Roman Baths, with remains of a clay masonry wall and mortar binder. Also, a few metres further up, there is a second natural spring, almost disappearing into the gullies.

We continue towards Lichada, which retained its status of Community for historical reasons, since, according to Ang. Stefos (“IΣTIAIAIA tom. A), “Lichas during the Revolution of 1821 was the focus of national interest, because it was the headquarters of a camp of the High Command of Eastern Chersonissos Greece under the name “AREIOS PAGOS” from 1821 to 1823″.

In the building of the Community with the beautiful view we are welcomed by the President Athanasia Stamos, who provides us with a wealth of important information about the area. Without delay we begin our additional tour with the community employee Stathis Arvanitis as our guide. We begin a hitherto unknown route starting from the church of St. Athanasius of Lichada.

We move in a N direction. Initially the road is passable, but at 2.4 km. it climbs steeply and – for about 100 meters – becomes so rough that unfortunately it is impassable by conventional cars. (The only remedy at this point is to pave the road with concrete). Immediately afterwards it continues smoothly again. We are already under the steep W and NW slopes of the Prophet’s Hill, which the fire has respected, except for a few scattered clumps that stand out like brownish accents among the overall deep green of the pines.

At 2.9 km, and about 100 meters to the right of the road – we are in front of an unexpected gift of nature. It is a spring with scarce but very cold and tasty water. Up the road we spot another lonely, over-aged holly tree. About 200 metres further on, a characteristic clearing with low vegetation appears on the left of the road. From its edge, the view is spectacular over the entire length of the Oreos Channel and the entire compact forest complex to the east, which has been left untouched by the fire.

At 3.9 km, a small opening between the pine trees reveals the picturesque cape of the Bay of Agapitos, a triangle of sandy land entering the sea.

At 4.2 km we meet the road that climbs up towards Profitilia and, 200 m further down, we turn sharp left towards the already familiar plateau with Stani and the local name “Pykanaria”. The deserted, last time, sty is now crowded with dozens of pigs in which, after crossing with wild ones, the characteristics of wild boar already dominate.

At first they are frightened and move away, but very quickly they come close to us, especially the young ones.

We leave them in peace and head A, on our second unknown route, towards “Fryaki”. At 1.7 km we leave the green slopes for a while and turn uphill to the S (right). After 2.6 km of rough road we reach the main forest network above Paliochori and the images of destruction. We return again in the direction of Fryaki. It is a wide plateau at a distance of 3.2 km from the plateau of Pykanaria. It is also known by the name “Five Wells” from the existing equal number of wells.

We take the right fork of the road, always in direction A. After about 500 meters, what our eyes are facing requires us to stop. An incredible “aerial” view is projected below. It is the Gulf of Yalta and the surrounding area in a unique plan view, the like of which we have never seen before.

For about half a kilometer we enjoy the experience of the most spectacular route of the Lichada Peninsula and – why not? – one of the most exciting in all of Greece.

Immediately afterwards, another spectacle awaits us. From the height of the antenna of the Ktis telephony system, the natural harbour of Yaltra, the upper part of the settlement and in the background Edipsos is revealed. We are at an altitude of about 300 metres. All around, the slopes are covered with young pine trees and kumarias, which have grown in place of the 15,000-acre pine forest that was burned by the terrible fire of 1990. We pass in front of the chapel of Agios Taxiarchis, built in 1922, and descend to the settlement of Yaltra, at a total distance of 6.2 km from the plateau of Pykanaria.

We head towards Edipsos and, 200m after the seaside chapel of Ag. Fanourios, we meet a signpost directing us N towards Mylokopi and the fish farms “NIKOFARM”. We are already at the narrowest point of the peninsula, where the third unknown route begins. A passable road begins, crossing a pine forest. At some point we have the unpleasant experience of moving for several hundred meters between an unacceptable garbage dump, next to and – sometimes – on the road. This demonstrates once again our contempt for the natural environment and the corresponding sad first place we hold in Europe. Fortunately, the monument we see 4 km later compensates us. It is the Byzantine chapel of Theotokos, one of the most lilipotent churches we have encountered so far. Its shape is circular, with an internal diameter of just 2.5 metres. Its masonry consists of elaborate clay masonry with intermediate tiles and binding mortar, sunbursts and arches, on which a round dome rests. Despite the great wear and tear from the passage of so many centuries, some remains of frescoes are still preserved. However, instead of having carried out some – at least elementary – restoration work, moderns have seen to it that, in direct contact with this historical monument, a whitewashed and indifferent chapel of the Virgin Mary has been erected, which – in our eyes at least – is an architectural incongruity. Perhaps they could have built it a few metres further away.

ROUND ISLAND AND LICHADONISIA

So many times we have seen Lichadonisia opposite us, sometimes within sight of the tip of the cape and sometimes panoramic from the height of the peak of Prophetia. Now comes the time to get to know them.

Yannis Lyberis is perhaps the most competent person to show us around them. Born in the largest Lichadon island, Monolia, at the time when three families lived there, he spent his early childhood in this microcosm with so many peculiarities.

Our first destination was the most remote island, Stoggyli. John’s small speedboat takes less than 5 minutes to cover the distance, which is just over 2 km from the cape. As we approach, the islet reveals its details, a round and graceful green mass, its height approaching 40 meters above sea level. At the top, the lighthouse stands out among the olive trees. Immediately afterwards, the surprises begin. First of all, the composition of the coastline. Stony, inhospitable, but most importantly, pitch black. All the rocks are composed of lava. We suddenly have the feeling that we are in Nisyros, Thera or some coast of the Methana Peninsula. At one point on the east coast the rocks become very spectacular, taking on a dark reddish colour with many shades in between.

After the geological work of nature, the second major surprise comes from the actions of humans. A little further up the NE coast, a sturdy stone wall stands out, among olive trees and slate trees. It is the old fortified enclosure of the now ruined Monastery of St. Gregory. The monastery is located directly behind the relatively modern chapel of St. Nicholas, built in 1934. The exquisite masonry consists of dark stone, with tile and mortar binder, a type common to all the old religious monuments in the region. The fortified enclosure consists of strong clay masonry with a carved façade and a thickness of up to 1,5 m. All around, the site is very rough due to the dense grates and the stones scattered and hidden in the grass.

From the chapel of Agios Nikolaos, a path leads slightly uphill in a south-westerly direction towards the lighthouse, initially hidden in gold among the rocks but later clearly visible. In less than 5 minutes we are in front of the magnificent structure. Here the third surprise awaits us, which comes from the quality of its masonry. It consists entirely of large chipped spines that are the colour of limestone. Their dimensions are such that, mutatis mutandis, they bring to mind cyclopean walls. We cannot understand why boulders of such weight and size were used. And it is also puzzling how they were transported and unloaded to the inhospitable shore and then to the top. These are questions that remain unanswered. We listen for a moment to the constant hum coming from the opposite highway, the only sound that reaches the island. Then we set sail for the mythical Lichadonisia. Some dangerous shoals stick out in the open. In 1943, a ship crashed into them and sank. Although the water is murky, with a little care we can make out the dark mass on the bottom.

There are 6 islands, but there are also a few rocky islets. On their surface grow grills and wild olive trees, and their height barely protrudes 2-3 meters above the sea. On some of them, small areas of sand are formed among the bushy vegetation. Many seagulls are perched on the dark stones of the shores and squawk incessantly. Some are even particularly aggressive because there are newborns in their nests. Around the islets the water is greenish and clear, creating picturesque channels. As we sail slowly through the narrow passages, we get the feeling that we are in an environment of exotic Indian islands, in a Polynesia in decline.

The largest Lichadon island is Monolia, with a coastline of 10 km and a surface area of about 3.5 square kilometres. Its distance from the cape does not exceed 700 metres, while its highest point is around 10 metres. The shoals around it are marked by Giannis with 6 large buoys. We slow down for a while with the engine off, letting the famous fairway current carry us away, which turns out to be far from true.

-This place has been a popular seal habitat for many years, says John. In recent years a couple has lived here permanently, and they have even had pups.

-Let me get my telephoto lens ready, says Anna, laughing.

-You might get lucky, John replies seriously.

We are getting ready to set off for the NE coast, to the landing point. Suddenly there’s a gust of wind, a sound like a loud exhalation. We all turn towards it and 50 meters away we face the seal. Before Anna can react, she sinks with a majestic dive.

-He’ll come back out, John says with certainty.

For the next five minutes no movement, no sound. Suddenly a dark mark appears, at least 200 meters offshore. We head towards it. For the next 20 minutes we watch its graceful movements from a distance of a few dozen meters. Then she disappears for good. It was our only encounter so far with this magnificent mammal in its natural habitat.

We disembark at the small wooden platform that John has built. On a well-formed path we head towards the open-air bar with umbrellas and sunbeds, which he has created on the island since 1994. But first we climb uphill just above the platform a few dozen meters. Here, under old olive trees, we see a low domed building with fine masonry, whose walls disappear into the ground. Around the building begins a rectangular wall with large dimensions, 14 metres wide and 25 metres long. The thickness reaches 60 centimetres, while the height above the ground does not exceed 1 metre. The stone construction is very elaborate. All around the ground is strewn with innumerable shells of various sizes and thicknesses.

In 2 minutes we reach the premises of Yiannis, where the only sandy beach of the island is located. It is a lilliputian creek of exotic beauty, whose width does not exceed 70 meters. Its existence is due to a rare favor of luck, since it consists of a blond sandy beach, surrounded by lavas, black and inhospitable. This combination is, for us at least, unique on the Greek coastline. The waters are light green and transparent. It is impossible to resist the allure of this beauty. In mid-May the water is cool, but in a matter of minutes it could not be more beautiful. Besides, the access is perfectly friendly, the hard sandy bottom progressively deepens and reaches a person’s boot after 70-80 meters.

–In the summer, of course, you are not guaranteed this solitude, John tells me, the place is very popular. In the bar we offer everything, even junk food, souvlaki, sausage, octopus and small fish, cooked of course in the thraca.

A path takes us to the south-western part of the island in a minute. Here we get a faint glimpse of the micro-society of the recent past, when three families still lived on the island, the Lymperis, the Vassilas and, earlier, the Stergios. Three – four houses all in ruins, the wonderful two-storey stone-built but uninhabited house of John’s family, remnants of a wood-fired oven and the tavern that John’s grandfather had until 1964. Many celebrities of the time dined here, arriving by boat from the cosmopolitan Kamena Vourla. Among them was Konstantinos Karamanlis. Today it is all in ruins. The only building that still enjoys human affection is the chapel of St. George of Lichadonisia, renovated by John. It is located in a nice place, under the protective shade of a large pine tree, one of the three in total that exist on the island.

We wander for a while among the ruins, in the old makeshift harbours with a capacity of one boat. Yannis can hardly hide his emotion from the memories of his first childhood on the island. I congratulate him for still being in direct contact with his past. In most people’s lives, that past is perhaps the most beautiful.