Athena makes a valiant effort to hold it in the palm of her hand. However, the little creature keeps slipping away. At no more than 7 inches long and with a delicate and lithe body, the cute amphibian stubbornly refuses to be immobilized. Its four agile little legs constantly push it to the edges of Athena’s small palm. It struggles to escape from the inhospitable environment of the human hand, to return to familiar territory: the wet grass, the cold water. Where his hundreds of fellow Alpine Tritons swim with the manoeuvres and speed of swift fish.

We are, for a few minutes now, at the Drakolimni of Tymfi or Gamilas, at an altitude of 2,050 meters. Our long-standing desire has finally been fulfilled. It was not, however, a simple and relaxing hiking route.

The Magic of the “Stone Towers”

Papingu turns. Steep, successive, endless. The most spacious hairpin bends in Greece. In one of the most iconic landscapes of the world’s admiration. A landscape where the concept of saturation, emotional or visual, is unknown.

But what is the reason for this rare privilege of the place? But, of course, to the Petrinoi Towers, the imposing rocks of solid limestone. They start from the heights of Astrakhan, at 2,436 metres. They gradually lower and rise like protective bastions above the Small and Great Papigo. They are the famous Towers of Papigo, one of the most photographed landscapes of mountainous Greece.

After Papigo, the Stone Towers head eastwards. There, with their immense volume and immense height, they form the formidable crags of Guvostitsa. Just below them, the springs of the legendary Voidomatis gush forth. The coldest, crystal clear and unpolluted river in Greece and probably in Europe.

Hairpins, however, come to an end. The road becomes sunny, passengers and drivers relax, the stress of the bends and the awe of the cliffs are gone. A new picture, idyllic and friendly, is revealed on the opposite, gentle slopes: beautiful, traditional houses, all built with the grey slate stone of the place. These are the houses of Megalo and Mikro Papigo, among the most desirable mountain destinations.

“Little Papigo 1700”

We cross the square of Megalo Papigou, with the church of Agios Vlasios and its hexagonal bell tower. A few minutes later we arrive at the square of Little Papigo, in front of the church of the Pammegistoi Taxiarches. Here, the practical value of the cars ends. In the traditional cobbled streets, the protagonists are the feet, as in earlier times. Only one small vehicle fits in the narrow streets: the characteristic four-wheeled “sow”, which descends from our accommodation to pick up the luggage. It is a very useful service since our hotel, the “Little Papigo 1700“, is perched on the highest point, at the eastern end of the village. Built as it is in successive levels on the sloping hillside, it offers an unobstructed view of all areas of the complex: the reception and living room, the breakfast and dining rooms, the rooms, the terraces and the suites. An almost constant wind moderates the midday heat of July.

– Here was the location “Alonia”, explains our host, Dimitris Exarchou. Its choice was not accidental for the old Papigiotes to install their threshing floors.

Among the old families of Papigo, the Exarchos family welcomes us with great cordiality, making us feel like old friends. The exquisitely restored house at the lower part of the hotel dates back to the 1700s. It is to this old house that the unit owes its name. It is a complex built with a lot of knowledge and care, which perfectly preserves the character of the traditional Zagorian architecture with the local stone and wood, the ironwork on the small windows, the dark slates on the roof.

If, however, the exterior is strongly reminiscent of the past, the interior of the rooms and suites is equipped with all modern comforts and top quality materials, bearing the COCO-MAT stamp. Equally advanced is the technology that has been used in the construction of the SPA, with SAUNA that contributes to energy savings of up to 50% and exclusively organic care products. It is a place of total relaxation in a truly unique environment.

Evening hours on the dining terrace of “1700” are magical. High up is the starry sky and all around is the dark horizon, with small scattered clusters of bright lights. They are the lights of Little and Big Papigo, Viko and Aristis and some distant undefined villages. It is blowing non-stop a lovely northerly wind. Here, at an altitude of almost 1000 metres, the hot summer of the plain is unknown.

We enjoy until late these exquisite conditions, which are further enhanced by the delicious creations of Mrs. Anthis.

Towards the Diaspora of Astrakhan

Our spirit, at night, was perfectly willing to get up at dawn and get out on the hills before the sun rose. Our flesh, however, proved weak (1). So, and in rare violation of our hiking habits, we didn’t manage to start before 9:30′. The sun is already high, but the heat is still bearable.

The starting point of the path with the relevant information sign, at a central fork of the village. Meet the path just 20 metres to the right of the entrance. The altitude of the departure is 980 metres.

– You won’t feel lonely at all during your walk, says Dimitris Exarchos’ son, Charis. Every now and then you will be passed by the runners of the ZAGORI MOUNTAIN RUNNING, the 50 km mountain race, which has started this morning from the bridge of Captain Bear and will end at the square of Kapesovo.

The route starts on a dirt forest road with imperceptible slopes.  A bushy oak forest dominates the slopes. In between, there are holly, maple and cedar trees. There are also hazel, linden and rowan trees. Almost 10 minutes later, chants can be heard from the chapel of St. Panteleimon, which has its feast day today.

The chapel is housed above the arched spring Abragonio, with two chipped troughs, from which wonderful water flows. I. Papaioannou says in his book about Papigo (2): ‘The fountain is famous for its excellent water, hence the song:

In Papigo, in Mahala
It’s a cold fountain,
who has a dart in his heart,
to go drink to extinguish
This good fountain,
is called Auragonia,
That’s where the birds sing,
that’s where the nightingales sing”

And adds I. Papaioannou: “The room above the vaulted shed of the fountain had been destroyed many years ago. In 1982, at the expense of Christos Kontogiorgos, it was made much nicer again.”

Many people attend the service in the chapel or in the shade of the century-old plane tree. For the first time a few runners pass us. Some hurriedly make their cross and continue on.

– When did you start? we ask them.

– At 7:30 in the morning, we get an answer. I look at Anna in surprise.

– It is not possible that they crossed the Viko’s Charadra and then climbed up to Mikro Papigo in just two hours (3).

9:50′. The forest road ends, the uphill part of the trail begins. A sign informs us that there are 2 hours and 50 minutes left to the shelter. The trail develops winding, with ground covered with small gravel, which does not cause us any problems, at least on the ascent (4).

But here’s where the problem comes from where we didn’t expect it: from the runners of the race, who every now and then appear behind us and want to overtake us. Narrow as the trail is, it forces us to get out of it and create space for runners to pass. This process is repeated with such frequency that it is impossible to walk for more than two or three minutes without stopping for an athlete to pass. The side effects of this reality are immediately visible. In addition to slowing our pace (which brings us closer to the hot noon), our steady pace is constantly interrupted.

At first we get nervous. We were expecting a quiet, solitary walk to the shelter and not such an annoying crowd. Very quickly, however, we adapt to the conditions. We even begin to look with great sympathy at the superhuman effort of the runners and to facilitate their course as much as possible by giving them space on the trail in time. Many times we do not hesitate to applaud and encourage them as much as we can. We receive smiles and thanks. There are some who pause for a moment and praise our efforts.

– You are more praiseworthy than we are, you carry backpacks with great weight.

The route is uphill, but under wonderful shade. It comes from many large trees and among them two species of gavros, with frequent occurrence of the rare “black gavros”.

10:25′. Outside the forest the beautiful stone fountain “Antalki” appears, at an altitude of 1200 meters. It was built by the Forestry Service “Mountainous Voskai” in 1964, half a century ago. Its flow on 27 July is satisfactory and the water is excellent and very cool.

– Can we make a stop? asks Athena.

– “It is necessary,” I reply. There’s still a lot of uphill ahead of us.

Runners have the same thought. No one refuses a micro-stop at Antalki, for a few sips of cold water or to replenish their ice reserves. Ours, of course, is a longer lasting attitude. Our priority is not performance but the enjoyment of the route, the capture of the characteristics of the landscape that evolves with fascinating diversity all around us. Already, at an altitude of about 1300 metres, the first “Bunokyrissa” or “Mourginia” in the local name appear sporadically. It is the famous Mountain Juniper (Juniperus foetidissima), which covers the opposite slopes of Lapatos, with extensive forests of very old trees, a phenomenon unique in Greece (5).

But here is another picture, completely different, high up in the east of the route. It is where the solid rocky mass of Astraka with the famous Towers rises. Between their crevasses shimmer those snowflakes left over from this winter’s heavy snowfalls, and probably won’t have time to melt.

For a few minutes we pass by the remains of burnt logs of mountain pines and cedars. Fortunately, the fire did not spread to the ravine and the opposite slope. It would have been an incalculable ecological disaster.

We hear footsteps hurrying behind us. Automatically, without turning our heads, we step out to the right of the path and stop. A young athlete thanks us for our movement, but the moment he passes us, he shorts himself out.

– From the HELLENIC PANORAMA, isn’t it?

– Yeah, how did you figure that out?

– But I’ve seen you so many times in the magazine. I have been reading you continuously since 1996, since the 4th issue of Samothrace.

– And haven’t you had enough of us yet?

– You must be joking, of course. Always stay strong and keep going.

Athena grabs my hand.

– It was a pleasant meeting, wasn’t it, Dad?

11:55′. We reach “Trafo“, the third spring of the route, at an altitude of 1500 meters. Here the water is just dripping. Even the athletes’ little water bottles require a lot of patience to fill up. The slopes of Astraka are now stripped of trees. But beautiful grasslands with a variety of earthy shades dominate.

The climb continues under a hot sun, the shadow of the forest has stayed low. As time passes, the groups of runners behind us thicken. The first women appear sporadically, seated, fatigue imprinted on their faces. They have already covered more than 23 kilometers of mountain trails. We applaud and cheer them on. They deserve it. Here’s a stubborn and tough friend. She recognizes us and waves to us.

There is another remarkable feature of the route in these bare highlands. These are the wildflowers, varied and beautiful, changing species, colours and form as the altitude changes.

12:45′. The ultimate happiness! At an altitude of 1750 meters we find ourselves in front of the most desirable sight of the route so far: the stone spring Kruna! With its divine, icy water. The presence of the spring, in such a bare landscape and at this altitude, is a true blessing.

We treat ourselves to an enjoyable 15-minute stop, admiring next to us the awesome crags of Astraka and gazing, to the W-NW, at the faint bulk of Nemertsika, the mountainous border between Greece and Albania.

13:00′. We start for the last uphill part of the route, facing the shelter for the first time at the neck. Half an hour later, at 13:30′, we have the satisfaction of being on the shady terrace of the shelter of Astraka, at 1930 m. The time required with all the delays and stops is exactly 4 hours.

In the shelter of Astraka

We are warmly welcomed by George Rokas, climbing instructor and mountain guide, who has been managing the refuge with his wife, Alexandra, since 2004. With them at the refuge is their four-year-old son, Konstantinos. Who had the experience of his first visit here at just 3 months old! His initiation into the secrets and charm of the mountains has begun very early.

A large table on the terrace is filled with refreshments, water, halvahs, cakes and various other goodies to support the athletes. Who, unlike us who are preparing to rest, will continue in the second half, the 25 kilometers still remaining to the finish line. Already we can see to the NE the trail of the steep path parallel to the rocky crags of Ploskos. At one and a half o’clock in the afternoon is not the best time to go uphill to the Drakolimni of Tymfi.

We take a look at the interiors. The cleanliness is impressive everywhere, with a focus on the most demanding areas, the sinks and toilets. The huge advantage of this particular shelter is the constant presence of excellent drinking water, which reaches us by pump from a spring.

The capacity reaches 51 beds distributed in 5 dormitories (6). A group of three of us, we settle in the four-bed room, the “suite” of the shelter. Athena can’t hide her excitement. Certainly not a few minutes later, when she sits down in front of a large, steaming pasta with minced meat. Our omelettes are just as good. A few hours later, our afternoon nap closes our eyes effortlessly and sweetly.

Our fears that we would sleep through the night were not realized. Thank goodness! Because it is a real loss in such a place to have one’s eyes closed for many hours. Afternoon coffee on the shady, stone terrace of the terrace. Immediately afterwards we slowly climb uphill to the adjacent bare, rocky “Alogovouni“. It’s a steep slope, dotted with slates and wildflowers of many kinds. At some point we recognize a familiar bush in the dry ground. It’s a mountain tea plant. We bend down and reverently pick the yellow-green flowering twigs. We bring them to our noses and get drunk with their fragrance. One of the most delicate, gentle aromas we can find in the herbs of Greek mountains (7).

About half an hour later we reach a smooth ridge. The large flat slates provide us with the most authentic seats in nature. From our box we gaze out over everything. Near us to the north the dark, from the dense vegetation, volume of Trapezitsa. Back on the straight, the horizon ends in the long mountain range of Gramos with its towering peaks. Further east, the volume of Smolika begins, with the peak of “Kleftis” – tragic since the years of the Civil War – visible. Further east, the pyramid of the Smolika peak rises, which at 2,637 metres is the second highest in Greece after Mount Olympus. Very close to us in the east, the peaks Ploskos and Gamila II beckon us. In the cool evening breeze we let time flow effortlessly. We gaze and enjoy. The diversity and the fascinating relief of the mountains, the universal silence, the setting sun. We could, thus, stay for hours.

With a cup of tea in hand we head downhill to the shelter. The further the dusk progresses, the sweeter the colours of the sun on the rocks of Astraka become. 10 minutes before 9 o’clock the purple disc disappears behind the faint outline of Nemerchika, into the Albanian lands. The temperature has already dropped to 20 degrees.

– Is it time for a hot mountain tea?Anna asks, pointing to the matzo.

– But we just cut it off. To dry it out, it needs days in the shade.

– Never mind, let’s try it pale.

For a few minutes put three flowering tea sprigs in hot water. Then add honey and a few drops of lemon. Immediately the place around us becomes fragrant. Each sip gives us incredible pleasure on the night terrace of the Astraka shelter…

The Charm of Drakolimni

At exactly 22:30′, when the night is at its peak, the generator stops working, the shelter is plunged into darkness. At this hour, none of us are sleepy. It is out of our habits to go to bed so early.

– However, we have to try, I tell Athena. Tomorrow morning we have to be up at six.

I can’t say, listening to the wake-up time, our daughter is flying with joy. After all, what child is happy when asked to wake up at the crack of dawn? So, it was a huge surprise when, a few minutes before the alarm clock went off-at 6am, I saw Athena’s raised head on the second floor of the bunk bed. It’s half-dark even, and the whole shelter is submerged in silence. Impossible to count – at this hour – on any service or provision, such as coffee or breakfast. So we limit ourselves to our own modest supplies and immediately prepare our backpacks and photographic equipment.

– Where are you going at this hour?asks George Rokas, who is projecting in the reception area.

– Catch up with Drakolimni by morning light.

– Well, have a cup of coffee and get started.

– We are already ready, we will drink it on the way back.

We start at 06:45′ sharp. I must say the discipline of the team is admirable. All the more so, since one of its members is a 10-year-old child. We descend from the shelter in a northeast direction. The trail is obvious but with a significant slope. Overgrown as it is with small and large stones, it becomes loose and very slippery. Our mountaineering poles take active action, proving – especially in these conditions – their usefulness.

Our descent, however, apart from being slippery, has another, much more pleasant feature. Almost the whole of the steep slope above and below the path is strewn with yellowish tufts of tea bushes. We decide to deal with his collection on the way back.

It takes us no more than 20 minutes to reach the edge of “Xeroloutsa“, the lowest point of the flat valley. The altitude is 1,780 meters, 150 meters lower than the shelter. The valley is elongated, crossed to the north by the bed of a stream. Alongside the stream runs the path, which leads after a few hours to the famous – and so beloved from the past – Stomio Monastery in the highlands of Konitsa above the abyssal gorge of Aoos (8).

The meadow we are crossing, with a path that is now relaxed, is covered with thick, green grass, an unusual phenomenon for the end of July. This is due, of course, to the many snowfalls this winter, which prolonged the moisture of the soil and the dullness of the grass. This grass was destined during the day to reveal an unexpected and very desirable find.

For the plateau where we are, Charitakis Papaioannou mentions in his book (9) that “between Lapatos, Astraka, Plosco and the ridge of Drakolimni, a large natural depression is formed, whose lowest point is at an altitude of 1750 meters. There, at the end of spring, when the snow melts, countless small and large lakes are formed. This is why this area is called by the Papigians ‘Plateau of Lakes‘. All these lakes dry up in summer, except one, ‘Rizina‘, at an altitude of 1 806 metres (10).

In fact, Rizina is not a lake but a swamp with rich aquatic vegetation, which is extremely rare for an area located at such a high altitude. Scientific research carried out in the mud of this swamp, including the study of pollen grains deposited over time, found that the area was one of the few natural refuges where temperate tree species survived during the last great ice age. In particular, at the end of the last glacial period, the area was covered by dense forests with a great diversity of forest species.

From 2,000 BC onwards, the systematic deforestation of the tree vegetation by man led to the final formation of the present, bare of tree vegetation landscape on the Plateau of Lakes in about 1,000 AD. With its lakes and marshland, it is unique in Greece.”

Continuing on our way, we notice between the grasses, sixteen meters to the left of the path, a hose, from which flows the amazing frozen water of a spring. Near here is the spring that ensures the continuous, precious water supply of the Astraka shelter. We fill up the thermos, take a few breaths and start the trail.

In this uphill course, Ploskos is a valuable ally, which with an altitude of 2,377 meters, is interposed between the highlands of Drakolimni and the – still visible – peak of Gamila. With its heavy volume -just as we had predicted- it still keeps us in the shade. But those who started after us for Drakolimni will not have the same luck. 10 minutes before 8 o’clock, at the end of the route, we are greeted by the first rays of the sun from the ridge of Ploskos. At exactly 8 o’clock, 1 hour and 15 minutes after our departure, we arrive at the much desired alpine meadow of Tymfi, at 2,050 metres. Revealing to our eyes the unique, unparalleled charm of Drakolimni.

– Wow…, Athena makes a spontaneous exclamation of admiration. The pond is beautiful.

What more can we say? Are the wonders of nature described in words? Completely still and without the slightest wrinkles, the water reflects on its surface all the surrounding mountains of Ploskos, Astraka, the legendary Gamila. Which finally emerges from obscurity and reveals itself further east, lonely, inaccessible, mysterious. A vertical geological hollow in the formidable solid rock, which, with an altitude of 2,499 meters, forms the highest peak of Tymfi and the sixth highest in Greece.

We get to slowly pace along the beautiful path around the lake. Three young people cheerfully greet us. They are the climbers, who early last night were inspired to set out from the shelter and pitch their tent to watch the sunrise from the shores of Drakolimni.

– “I wish we could have had such an experience,” says Anna. Some amazing images would have emerged.

– Which, of course, alternate in a magical way, I add, depending on the hours of day and night, the seasons of the year. Thousands are the faces of the lake, all beautiful, different and unique.

At the eastern end of the lake, interspersed on the grassy slope, is an image, a reminder of the days of winter. It is a grey and white snowdrift, hard as stone and over a metre thick. It is doubtful if it will have time to melt before the new snows begin on the highlands of Tympha.

– A tattoo, suddenly the happy voice of Athena is heard. We go to her. Among the grasses of the grassy outcrop swim with speed and agility some of the many Alpine Tritons of the lake. We easily catch one of them and – with some reservations – hold it out towards Athena’s hand. Without the slightest hesitation-to our surprise-the child opens his hand and tries to hold the cute amphibian in his palm. But this one, with its agile little feet, is constantly fighting to get away from the warm, unfamiliar environment of the hand and to find itself again in the cold and so familiar environment of the water.

Time passes, the Drakolimni of Tymfi continues to hold us captive to its seductive beauty. Just as it seduced Ali Pasha of Ioannina 200 years ago. Who, as tradition has it, was the first man who sought to climb up to Drakolimni to explore it, believing that immense riches were hidden at its bottom. Which, of course, as we know today, is no more than 5 metres deep.

We take a last look at the dreamy surface of the lake, admire the countless “spring” wildflowers. Then we start the path back. Downhill and relaxing as it is, it is a pleasure. But that’s not how the large group that crosses us midway uphill feels. Most of them are puffing away in sweat under the sun, which, although still in the morning, is still very hot.

– Is there still a long way to go? asks a middle-aged man.

– Hey, no quarter.

– You were proactive, you started early, says someone else. We wanted coffee and breakfasts.

A little further down I can see something whitening between the thick grasses of the slope. I swerve off the path in the secret hope that what is whitening might be more valuable than stone.

– Where are you taking us from there, Dad? Here’s the path, Athena shouts at me.

– I know, I’m just going to see if my prediction has any chance of being correct.

– What are you looking for?

– Come on, maybe we’ll get lucky.

A few seconds later we are indeed lucky. Sheltered among the tall, wet grasses of the slope, nestle two magnificent mushrooms of the large Agaric family. Anna, who was leading the way, rushes over to us.

– It is identical to that amazing, huge agaric that we had found in Krania in Grevena.

– Yes, George Konstantinidis had highly appreciated it and had mentioned his name to us (11). Unfortunately I have forgotten it, but it is impossible to forget its wonderful taste.

For the next 20 minutes we are scattered on the slopes above the Lakes Plateau, looking for mushrooms, at an average altitude of about 1900 meters. Our search yields almost two kilos of some of the finest wild mushrooms to be found in the wild in Greece (12).

The only side effect of our quest is the rising of the sun in the sky and the temperature on earth. The climb up to the shelter is like a calvary. There, however, is another attraction: the mountain tea, which invites – and challenges – us to pick it up on the rugged slope. Collecting it on the loose and extremely sloping ground is neither easy nor entirely harmless. But when we arrive at the shelter at 12 noon, we have with us a quantity for many fragrant infusions during the winter.

Coffee, farewell to the Roka family and start back. Which, while it looks like a walk in theory, in reality costs us an intense strain on our leg muscles. This is mainly due to the gravel, which forces us to brake constantly.

Two and a half hours later, we dive into the hot tub pool of the “1700“. There we completely forget the misadventures of the trail, only the memory of so many wonderful moments remains.

Epilogue

– How do you want me to cook the mushrooms for you? asks Mrs. Anthi.

– As you wish, I leave it to your experience, Anna replies.

He was fully vindicated. Chopped, juicy and quenched with wine, the agaric of Tymphi is amazing. As were our last few evenings on the unique terrace of the “Little Papigo 1700”.

Notes

1. Matthew’s well-known saying: “The spirit is willing, but the flesh is weak.“
2. “PAPIGKO, ONE OF THE OLDEST PLACES OF ZAGORIUS”, Volume Two, p. 27-28
3. I was, of course, unaware at the time that there were a few runners who had posted times more staggering than the two-hour time to get here.
4. But the descent, as expected, was to be very different.
5. Charitakis I. Papaioannou, “Papigo and its mountains”, p. 37
6. 1 room x 4 bunk beds, 2X8, 1X12 and 1X19 bunk beds.
7. A fascinating article about “Sideritis”, the tea of the Greek mountains, was published in Ell. Pan., issue 94.
8. An extensive and fascinating article on the Stomio Monastery has been published in Elλ. Panorama, issue 56.
9. “THE PAPIGO AND HIS MOUNTAINS”,Σελ. 74-76.
10. According to Nikos Nezis (“THE GREEK BOOTS”, VOLUME 1, p. 34, Rizina Tymphi or Loutsa Raidovoli, is located at an altitude of 1,740 meters.
11. Giorgos Konstantinidis is a teacher in Grevena, a graduate of Panteion University and Journalism, author of fascinating books on mushrooms and lecturer in dozens of seminars in Greece and abroad. He has been awarded by many institutions and in 2001 by the Academy of Athens for his contribution to science and research.
12. Consulting George Konstantinidis and his books, we conclude that they belong to the species Agaricus augustus (Agaricus the majestic or imperial) and Agaricus arvensis (Agaricus of the fields or sheep’s milkweed by its popular name).

Bibliography

– Haritakis I. Papaioannou, “Papigo and its mountains”, ed. B’, Papigo, 2007

– John C. Papaioannou, “TO PAPIGKO”, FIRST VOLUME (Ed. C’), Papigo, 1994 and “TO PAPIGKO”, SECOND VOLUME, Thessaloniki, 1987

– Nikos Nezis, “THE GREEK BOOTS”, VOLUME 1 and VOLUME 3, Athens, 2010

– George Konstantinidis, “Mushrooms, a photographic guide for mushroom pickers”, 2009.

Thanks to

We especially thank the Exarchos family for their warm hospitality in the wonderful traditional hotel “MICRO PAPIGKO 1700“. We also thank George Rokas and Alexandra for their services at the Astraka Shelter.

Useful Phone Numbers – Accommodation

Diaselo Astraka: 6973 223100 and 26510 83906.

Necessary Map

Zagori 1:50.000 / Anavasi