As our first destination we choose a circular route of about 90 km, which combines at the same time some very special and – probably – unique in Greece characteristics.

It was our wish and that of many readers. To start presenting routes for “leisure” cars, the well-known 4×4.
We do not intend to show you extreme off-road routes, which can be dangerous for passengers and cars. But to encourage you to make the most of your car’s capabilities and to discover places of unimaginable beauty.
So follow us, dear friends, first mentally and then on the ground, on this great journey. You will experience special moments with us in lonely and beautiful places, discover hospitable accommodations, local delicacies and quality products of various regions.
So let’s get started! Our first destination is the route Chaliki – Syrrako – Kalarrites, through the mountain roads in the highlands of Mount Lakmos or Peristeri. It is the extensive mountain range that interposes between Epirus and Thessaly, in the prefectures of Ioannina and Trikala.
As our first destination we choose a circular route of about 90 km, which combines at the same time some very special and – probably – unique in Greece characteristics.
These features will be revealed to us on each page, as the article progresses. But for those who cannot tame their curiosity, they are briefly summarized at the end of the travelogue.
The starting point of the route is the historic settlement of Haliki Aspropotamos in Trikala, Thessaly. Intermediate stops are two other historic and beautiful villages. Syrrako and Kalarrites of Ioannina. The mountainous dirt route runs through the dreamy highlands of the Lakmos or Peristeri mountain range, which is sandwiched between Epirus and Thessaly, in the prefectures of Ioannina and Trikala. So let’s get started!
HOW DO WE GET TO THE GRAVEL?
If we come from South Greece, we leave the National Road at the height of Lamia, head towards Domokos, Karditsa and then up the mountainous axis Pyli – Elati – Pertouli to Chaliki. As a variation of this route we can continue from Karditsa to Trikala, Kalambaka – Meteora, the mountain settlement of Kastania and then the villages of Aspropotamos and Haliki.
For those coming from Northern Greece, there are three options. The first one goes through Larissa, Trikala, Kalambaka, Kastania etc.
The second one follows the Egnatia Odos from the junction of Veria to the city of Grevena and continues on the provincial road of Grevena – Mourgani Bridge – Kastania etc.
The third – and recent choice – leads us via Egnatia to the junction of Anili (opposite Metsovo) and then (with a very narrow mountainous asphalt road of 20 km) leads us to Chaliki. It is obviously the shortest route, but in winter with heavy rainfall, landslides are created which can be dangerous.
We start our journey with a first stop in Kastania of Kalambaka. There, in the verdant slopes of Pindos, the hotel “MANAKOS” operates at an altitude of 900 meters. It is a true retreat. Eight years after our first acquaintance, (EL. PANORAMA, issue 22) we always enjoy warm hospitality from Kyr-Yiannis Manakos and his son Michalis and amazing pies from Litsa Manakos. Grass pie with wild mountain greens, classic Vlach cheese pie and the speciality: pie with “nana”, that rare high altitude grass. The handmade dough is truly exceptional.
The next morning, in a good mood and well rested, we cross the spectacular route of Aspropotamos and arrive at Haliki. (HELL. PANORAMA issue 30, 2002).
A stop at the tavern “VERLIGKA” of Christos Zacharis is a must.
– So you’re going to Syracuse from the mountain! Well done, nice choice! As far as I know, no one so far has presented this route. After all, it was only last year that the road over Verlinga was opened and joined the road from Syrrako.
FROM GRAVEL TO WIRE.
A gentle, uphill cobbled road leads us quickly out of the village. The good dirt road follows a course parallel to the beautiful Remma Guvatummani. Its crystal-clear waters, which come from the springs of the highlands west of Haliki, join a little further down with the streams from the beech forests of Rona and create the initial stages of the water course of Aspropotamos, the legendary Acheloos.
Along the road we encounter many century-old willows. Above, skulls laden with helmets. It is a lovely day with a warm sun, but already the first clouds are slowly moving across the deep blue sky. We enter a dense forest of fir trees. At the edge of the road we are greeted by an old fir tree of impressive dimensions.
At 5.8 km. and at an altitude of 1500 meters we meet a main fork and go uphill to the right.
For information, if we continue left, we will finish after 4.5 km at the “Stournaras Mandri”. There there is a water source and an impressive gorge that ends in Haliki.
As we continue on our way, the stony roadway begins to become hostile. It’s time for the conventional cars to return.
The SUBAROU FORESTER, of course, of the 2008 generation, has not the slightest problem. Its great height from the ground (21.5 cm.) and excellent suspension absorb most road bumps. At 7.2 km. we climb steeply to the left, the road surface gets a little rough, but without any particular problems. At some point we cross a flock of sheep, which occupy the full width of the road deck. We find ourselves suddenly blocked in their midst and of course we stop.
– Little patience until we get through, says a sympathetic shepherd.
He is Giannis from Chaliki, cousin of Christos Zacharis. In a pasture, at the “Paliomantra” location, we come across a stable. Further up, off the road, at an altitude of 1750 meters, there is a nice stone-built spring with successive watering troughs for the sheep. Above our heads, the bare peaks of the Lakkos dominate catalytically. Wherever the eye turns, it meets stone and grass. Nature has left her ornaments lower down, in the gorges and forests. This landscape, however, seemingly so humble, exudes an overwhelming austerity. Anything else on it would seem out of place and alien. Except, of course, for the tender, beautiful Agaricus campestris mushrooms, which are scattered everywhere. We are located at 11.5 km. from Chaliki, on the Verlinga plateau, at an altitude of 1930 meters. Hillsides with gentle slopes, flat plateaus with thick green grass cover the amazing meadowland. Here is the most mountainous stable in the place, but already deserted by cattle and shepherds who have rushed down to the plain. A few dozen yards upstream we can make out the trace of the waterfall, which we once photographed in full flow. Today it is almost dry.
The road used to reach here from the side of Thessaly. Then a path followed a steep slope leading to Tsoukarela, the highest peak of Lakkos with an altitude of 2,294 metres. Those who didn’t want to be at the top could detour a bit and in a few minutes climb to the rim of a huge natural funnel that resembles a crater, but with an elongated rather than circular shape. It is the legendary “Verlinga”, a landscape that has no equal in Greece. The peculiarity lies not in the velvety surface of the lush green valley – which is coloured in spring and white in winter – but in the incredible meanderings of the stream that flows along the longitudinal axis of Verlinga. It is to these meanderings, moreover, that the valley’s catchy name, which in Vlach means “stream of water that circles“, is due.
The stream of Verligas is created by the various wells on the slopes, but mainly by the spring “Karvelos“, which gushes from the rocky foothills of Lakkos at an altitude of about 2,050 metres. The water of the spring is cold and of divine purity and so digestible according to the locals that once a Vlach once ate a whole loaf of bread by drinking from this water. Thus the fountain was named Karvelou, and it is one of the countless springs that create the Acheloos.
We start for the first time on the new section of the road, uphill and rough. In mid-June last year we found ourselves at the exact same spot, as part of our two-day excursion to the region of Aspropotamos with members of the “Greek Tourists” Club. There was so much accumulated snow in some parts of the road that it was impossible at the time for the 4x4s to continue on this new part of the mountain route. This means, that most months of the year – probably around eight – Verlinga is nature’s forbidding limit for the further route.
Today, of course, in mid-September, the road has no problems at all, it arcs over Verlinga and ends in a neck. We are already 13.5 km away from Haliki and we are at the highest road point in the region at an altitude of 2,110 metres! It is definitely the route with the highest altitude we have reached so far in Greece by car.
Reaching the neck we let our eyes wander to the W-NW, across the entire depth and breadth of the continental horizon. It is a landscape with a fascinating relief, created by the many mountain ranges, trenches and folds. Interspersed between them are plateaus and slopes with rich pastures. On the lush green surfaces of the land stand out, countless white dots, the so characteristic backs of the sheep.
Unlike the Chalikiote farmers, who have brought their herds down to the plain, their Syracuse colleagues continue to graze them on the high slopes and plateaus of Peristeri. We are impressed by the numbers of sheep. There are some thousands of them. Sweet-sounding bells, barking of big dogs fill the atmosphere with bucolic sounds. It’s very beautiful. The dirt road, meanwhile, is still good. At 15 km from Chaliki we continue diagonally left, and at 15.8, at a bend in the road, we meet the first sign for Syrrakos (17 km). It is a pleasant surprise. A few years ago, signs on this mountainous route were non-existent, as were, of course, such detailed maps. A non-local, unfamiliar with the area, only with a good map or a strong instinct could orient themselves. (ELL. PAN, issue 36).
The afternoon weather continues to be nice and warm. Numerous clouds in various shapes and shades of gray and pencil, giving exciting variations in the blue sky. At 17.4 km. we reach a decisive junction. Here a sign informs us that on the left the road leads to Kalarrytes, while on the right, after 15 km, to Syrrakos. At last, we have before us a clear sign of concern of a local body – in this case the Community of Syrrakos – towards the traveller, on a route that is mountainous, remote and totally unknown to mass tourism.
At 19.6 and at 22 km. we are accompanied by new signs to Sirrakos. Here are the first cows, truly “happy” with so much grass exclusively their own.
At 24.6 km, we arrive at a very peaceful point of the route, with the low slab-roofed chapel of Agios Apostolos. A sign informs us that Syrrako is only 8 km away. A track lower down leads to a stable, and from the height of a rachula a shepherd waves his hand and greets us.
There are successive signs at 27, at 27.8 and at 28.2 km. on the right. This last one takes us to a downhill and rough road. Here are two horses and a newborn foal. With great difficulty Anna manages to photograph it. Its mother tries, as much as she can, to keep it out of our sight. Sheep, goats, horses, cows. All the tame fauna of the land has passed before us.
At 31.7 km we reach the asphalt road, above the first houses of Syrrakos.About 400 meters later we meet the big sign, where all the tourist infrastructure of the settlement is indicated. We take the dirt road on the left towards the guesthouse “KASA KALDA”, of Panagiotis and Popi. At 32,4 km. from Chaliki we are at the parking area, under the big walnut tree. The progress, since last time, is obvious. The inhospitable dirt road has been paved with flagstones, has gained light fixtures and two benches. We descend the modern cobbled street and in half a minute we pass the courtyard door of the stone-built mansion of 1864.
HAPPY HOURS IN SYRACUSE
Panagiotis and Popi open their arms, they have been waiting for us in the yard for a long time. This stunning paved courtyard with trees and flowers, iron tables, the small stone terrace with a divine view of Kakarditsa and Tzoumerka. This is where Poppy always brought us our coffee, and this is where we want to drink it today.
– But don’t be long, our friend says. The pies will get cold.
After coffee we move a few meters next door, to an elevated seating area, set up under the shade of a walnut tree. Here we once again taste Popi’s famous pies, chicken pie with cheese and peppers, cheese pies with excellent crispy pastry.
– We’ve picked some mushrooms, I tell her.
– I’ll fry them up for the tsipouro.
Panagiotis brings the wonderful tsipouro, pure, made by him. He sits with us. What can we say about the pies and Popi’s handmade pita bread! An amazing tinkerer and she is the equivalent of Litsa Manakou. Afternoon now. The sun is hiding early behind the nearby ridge, rising massive to the NW of Syrrakos. The shadow of the mountain falls heavily and with it the temperature in the courtyard drops. Not to forget, the altitude here exceeds 1100 meters.
– I’m going to throw a cardigan over my shoulders and turn on the light, Poppy says.
– And we think we should go down to Vasilis’ café. We’ve missed a bit of socializing.
Our footsteps echo on the winding cobbled streets, modern and old. Three minutes later we reach the wide, flat cobbled street, which is the traditional and picturesque access to the northwestern part of the village.
A few dozen meters next door is the shop of Vassilis, son of Panagiotis and Popi. Who would have told us six years ago that, in addition to his taverns, he would also acquire such a hangout in Syrrako.
With a lovely little living room, wonderful furnishings, very well worked stone and wood. With a heavy cast-iron fireplace of high efficiency, handmade textiles, traditional objects and a good selection of groceries, not lacking in cigarettes, an item unfortunately essential for smokers.
Vassilis’ little shop, “Sarika”, is beautiful. You love it from the first moment. But what is unsurpassed is its balcony, both the outdoor and the covered one. With its armchairs and small tables oriented towards the impressive peaks and gorges of the Tzoumerka mountains. The first drops of rain come and force us to take shelter on the balcony with the shed. It’s lovely here too. The drops are cracking with a thunderclap on the roof slabs, the pitch-black sky is constantly furrowed by incredible lightning bolts, the atmosphere vibrates with the powerful thunder.
Cappuccino for Anna, double espresso for me. Yes, in Syrrakos, where once the only coffee was Greek, and in the summers, frappe.
It is getting dark for good, the rain continues to fall. Three locals arrive. They greet us cordially, shake their umbrellas and lean them against the wall. Then they affectionately grab their gluts and sit around a large barrel, which Vasilis has turned into a table. Such a table, of course, chronically soaked in alcohol, is no place for coffee. Only tsipouro. At this time we don’t want anything else either.
So Vassilis starts coming and going, bringing various hot and cold snacks. We clink our glasses with the friends next door. Among them is Nikos Gizas, community councillor of Syrrakos.
– If you have time tomorrow morning, we can do the path that starts outside Syrrakos and ends at the stone bridge, under the Kalarrites, Nikos suggests. A suggestion that is immediately accepted. The heavens have opened above our heads. I take one of Vasilis’ gluts, hold it under my chin and lean on it. I suddenly feel myself sitting more relaxed. Something the Syracusans know, they never part with the glue.
Slowly now, the rain stops. And the tsipouros stop. It’s dessert time. It’s the excellent yoghurt brought to us by Santa Claus, accompanied by helmet paste. A true revelation! Its delicate taste combines all those sweet and sour elements so characteristic of the taste of cranberry.
The cobblestone pavement is slippery after the rain. And the constant climb, though short, has become tedious. The gluts that Basil has given us are proving to be very practical.
In the stone living room our friends are waiting for our return. As we enter, we are greeted by a sweet warmth. With night-time temperatures in the single digits, the fireplace emits an incomparable charm.
ON THE SUPERB PATH OF THE “PULIANA”
The day dawns bright in Syrrako.
The beginning of the trail is on the asphalt, at “Pouliana”, two km before Syrrakos. Here is a stone building with a sketch of the path that used to connect Kalarrites with Syrrakos and Ioannina.
According to the sketch, the length of the trail is 2,850 meters. We start at 9:20 from an altitude of 1205 meters. Excellent trail, wide, grassy.
Every 100 meters wooden signs inform us about the distance travelled. At 300 meters we meet a stone-built kiosk. An amazing density and variety of vegetation accompanies our steps. The dominant tree, however, is the skullcap. Nowhere in Greece have I seen more vines.
At 400 meters we find a second kiosk, wooden and with benches. At 800 m. a huge plane tree. We are impressed by the stone landmarks, which marked the territory of two neighbouring but – once – competing communities, Kalarryton and Syrrakos.
At 1,000 meters we meet the third and last kiosk. Suddenly, on the trail, we find fresh bear droppings.
– He had eaten cranberries overnight, says Nikos.
A downhill cobbled road begins, built on the steep slopes. Here are some huge wild lime trees. For the first time we face the tarmac. Across the road loom the Kalarryites and a waterfall with little water but a height of over 100 metres.
10:45. We arrive at the towering stone bridge of Quiasa, over the stream. The altitude is 750 metres. We have covered an elevation difference of 455 meters.
In 3 minutes we reach the asphalt, where Panagiotis is already waiting for us. The net time of the route does not exceed one hour. The path is beautiful. We highly recommend it.
Before leaving Syrrakos, we visit with Nikos the Conference Centre “Kostas Krystallis“. A beautiful hall, with state-of-the-art equipment and excellent photos of the village and the surrounding area.
We say goodbye to our friends and head uphill to the historic Kalarrites.
IN THE REEDS AND IN THE ALLEY OF NAPOLEON
Following exactly the opposite course, we arrive after 14,9 km. to the fork, which leads us right towards Kalarrites. After yesterday’s heavy rain, we encounter many mud and ponds, which we pass without difficulty. Many clouds move with impressive speed in the canopy of the sky. Most impressive, however, is the flight of a magnificent eagle, which is making stately flights high above.
We are already at an altitude of 1,780 metres. At 17.3 km. we pass by a large barn. Its guardians are a dozen or so very large dogs. At the sight of the car they rush in and circle it barking deafeningly. With great difficulty I manage to make my way between them.
At 18,5 km. a downhill pedestrian road begins,,, hardly friendly. At 21,3 km. we meet a fork. There are no signs here. We consult the map of the “Ascent”, find out that we are at the location Tsuma and decide to continue left .We do not regret it. Although bumpy, the road is at least reliable. At 27.3 km. it leads us to the asphalt road network, which on the right descends towards Kalarrites, while on the left it takes the uphill towards the neck of Baros and the city of Trikala. Here the altitude reaches 1555 metres.
After such a jolt it seems strange to be driving on asphalt again. It even seems very pleasant. At 33.2 km we reach the parking lot at the highest entrance to the village. We descend the cobbled streets, pass in front of Napoleon’s lodge and in a few minutes we are in the nice village square. Here we meet again our good friend, Napoleon Zagli. For almost 15 years now, he has unbreakably linked his name with his place. He brought people, locals and foreigners alike, back to Kalarryti. Not just in the summers but all year round. Thanks to his personality, his excellent catering services and the picturesqueness of his old family-run shop. So crowded on winter days but always so charming and attractive.
– You’re late, our friend says. You are certainly tired and hungry. We nod our heads in affirmation.
Napoleon brings a quick bite first, just to fool the hunger. Then pork with prasosselino, salad and cheese. Every now and then he brings something.
– Tonight you will stay here to rest and relax. Okay?
– We still have work to do, Napoleon. We need to chart the route to Anthusa and Chaliki, through the neck of Barus.
– Ah, that’s easy. Leave it for tomorrow morning. After all, the sun is about to set.
We are completely relaxed at this prospect. It’s nice to gossip without stress at Napoleon’s, to watch the square from the rooftop terrace and retire to the peace of the guesthouse in the evening. Where the sounds that plague us in the big cities don’t reach.
EPILOGUE
The next morning, in dark weather, we ascend to Baros. 11 km. Then we reach an altitude of 1900 meters or so on this neck of the woods, which in winter is awesome. We descend to the left, first on asphalt and then on a gravel road (on the right the road leads to Matsouki and Arta). 12.7 km later we reach the road to Trikala and Chaliki. The circular route of 90 km. is almost complete.
The special features of the route that make it unique.
– Continuous circular route of almost 90 km, except for about 20 km of regression.
– Apart from a few km of asphalt road, the rest of the roads are dirt roads, without any particular difficulties for 4x4s.
– The route can be completed in the course of a day.
– Thanks to the signs and the detailed map, there is no risk of getting lost.
– The route crosses landscapes of great natural beauty.
– It has three historical villages, Chaliki, Kalarrites and Syrrakos, as well as the mountainous Kastania, as its starting point and stops.
– Warm hospitality is guaranteed in all three villages.
– The route is entirely mountainous, developing at an average altitude of 1500-1600 meters. Its highest point passes through a neck with an altitude of 2,110 metres, which is probably the highest road point in Greece.
– Almost 2/3 of the year it is impossible to cross the river completely due to snow.
– In June one can experience three seasons at the same time: heat, wild flowers and snow.
ACCOMMODATION – RESTAURANT PROPOSALS
MANAKOS – Hotel with recent renovation. Comfortable spaces, wonderful natural environment next to the forest. Warm hospitality from the Manakos family. Excellent homemade cuisine and amazing pies.
SARIKA – The first authentic coffee shop in Syrrakos. With a fireplace and a lovely interior for the winter, cool balconies with wonderful views in the summer. Always with a smile, Vassilis serves fine tsipouro, a variety of appetizers, pan and spoon sweets.
KASA KALNTA – Wonderful guesthouse in a mansion of 1864. Magnificent view, warm hospitality, amazing handmade pies from Poppy. The stay at KASA KALNTA is, every season of the year, an unforgettable experience.
NAPOLEON – For the Kalarrites a reference point. An old atmospheric little shop, a variety of snacks, a guesthouse for hours of relaxation and peace.