“In Tempi, nature has lavishly scattered all its gifts: mountains, slopes, cliffs, cool, gurgling springs that bubble up from the rock crevices, a diverse flora with countless shades of green, towering trees, and in the middle, a mythical river that flows calmly, silently, and incessantly with its murky waters.” These are the observations of Abraham Ortelius about this place. He was a Flemish cartographer and geographer of the 16th century and creator of the first modern atlas. Thus, nature here remains majestic and imposing. By constantly taking so many human lives, it seems to be calling on us to pay more attention to this place. It calls on us to take care of this steep and sunless valley by giving it light, so that it can take on a new form, less ominous and threatening.

The valley is an impressive geological structure. The result of seismic activity in the wider area of Olympus and Ossa, it creates a sudden outlet for the waters of the Thessalian plain to the sea. In the depths of the valley, the Peneios River collects the runoff from the southernmost ends of the Pindos mountain range, the foothills of Olympus and Ossa. Finally, after a turbulent journey of about 10 kilometers, it releases them into the embrace of the Aegean Sea, forming the fertile Peneus Delta.

It could be the central artery of Greece, connecting Macedonia with Thessaly with its towering, verdant karst slopes. Chemical and mechanical erosion caused by wind and precipitation gives the rocky limestone walls of the gorge imaginative appearances and imposing shapes. Frightening, at times, we must admit. It carves the stone, creating caves and rock shelters. Sculptures with steep slopes and overhangs that enchant passersby.

These vertical walls are dominated, proudly and against the weather and frequent landslides, by evergreen shrubs and aromatic plants. The dominant species are holm oak, juniper, holm oak, esparto grass, thyme, and savory, while lower down, along the hydrographic network, on the smoother banks of the river, we find more “tender” riparian vegetation. It consists of less thorny species and deciduous trees such as plane trees, poplars, willows, oaks, and alders.

The Valley of Tempi, this impassable place, enjoys the grandeur of nature but also the contempt of people. A dystopian aversion that stems from the very roughness of the landscape, causing incurable wounds to unfortunate passersby and their families. The rugged terrain with its extensive slopes, deep rock shelters, and crevices discouraged settlement and agricultural activity, making the area attractive only to daring adventure seekers.

Since ancient times, invaders and their armies have tried hard to take advantage of the valley’s strategic location and countless natural hiding places. Most of the time, of course, they couldn’t get into the area. In the 4th century BC, the Persian king Xerxes avoided passing through the valley due to its narrowness and crossed into Thessaly, preferring the slopes of the significantly smoother Lower Olympus. The king of Sparta, Brasidas, also avoided the Tempi during the Peloponnesian War in 424 BC, choosing instead to cross the narrows of Petra. In 394 BC, the Spartan king Agisilaos, returning from the Persian Wars, also bypassed the wild valley. Later, the Romans defeated the Macedonians in 168 BC at Pydna, also passing through Lower Olympus in Pieria rather than through the valley.

In 1423, the same area contributed to the Ottoman conquest of eastern Thessaly, while the valley played a more significant role during World War II. The German occupiers, following the route carved out by Xerxes, attacked Greece and captured Thessaloniki in 1941. They found refuge in the castle of Platamonas and, when more German troops arrived in the area, they defeated the British occupiers and made their way to Athens.

Greek guerrilla groups then organized themselves and, skilled in climbing rocks and navigating dense vegetation, made better use of the hidden caves and passages of the valley. They defeated the Germans in fierce battles that took place on the banks of the Peneus River, leaving hundreds dead.

It was then, in 1944, that a German train was blown up, costing the lives of at least 400 Germans. Fifty-five years later, the narrow valley took the lives of six young people after a vehicle collision, while in 2003 a tragic accident “stained” the area with the blood of 21 students when their school bus collided with a truck. The climax, of course, came in the spring of 2022, when 57 young people lost their lives in a violent train collision. The impressive, verdant valley has become forever associated with human suffering and the dark face of mourning.

But nature does not participate in the suffering and tragedies of humans. It transforms and moves at its own pace, constantly captivating us with its charm and allure. Perched on the eastern slope of the valley is the path known today as “kleftiko” . Following it, we can explore the valley. We can feel the echoes of history, contemplate the grandeur of nature and its superiority over human size.

The passage of so many armies, rebels, and fugitives has left us with a well-marked route, which is maintained and marked by the Larissa Mountaineering Club. This is a difficult task, made even more challenging by the technical difficulties that arise each year due to the hardy and thorny vegetation, which is favored by high rainfall and humidity levels.

We start our route from the village of Tempi and after 4.5 km the road ends next to a gallery. This is the start of the trail, where we will leave our vehicle. Upon entering the settlement of Tempi, we can visit the Hasan Baba Tekke, which is currently under restoration. This was the gathering place of the dervishes during the Ottoman Empire, an area that corresponds to the settlement of Lykostomio during Byzantine times. What has been preserved to this day is the turbe, a square structure with a mud dome and a drum covered with lead sheets. Next to the main building, one can also see the ruins of the mosque.

When you get to the end of the asphalt and before you hit the trail, it’s worth heading down to the railroad tracks, just a few minutes’ walk, to check out the memorial plaque honoring World War II veterans.

We return from the same place and locate the trail that begins to climb the rocky slope. We proceed parallel to the old railway line and higher than it, guided by sparse signs and ribbons. We initially walk through sparse shrubbery, with some difficulty finding the path due to the uphill slope and sparse markings.

After about 400 meters, we make a turn and come across a dense forest of holm oaks. We walk in the shade until we reach an abandoned building and an olive grove. There we find an easily passable dirt road that leads us to the forest road connecting Tempi with the village of Rapsani. We follow it uphill for a bend in the road and locate the path that follows the direction of the Pinios riverbed. The slope is now gentler and offers a magnificent view of the opposite slopes. After walking about 2.5 kilometers from the starting point and just before we start climbing again, we can rest on one of the many rocky “balconies” along the trail.

Then we will see the well-hidden Castle of Oria or Ombria on the peaks of the ravine on the opposite slope. It is a tower-fortress, an observatory of Frankish or Catalan origin, built in a strategic position for the control and defense of the guard, with good visibility of the entire Tempi Valley upstream and downstream of the Pinios River. The only access to it is from Ambelakia, via a long path. The castle was named after the daughter of the ruler who led the fight against the Ottomans in the 15th century. After more than 10 years of fighting and siege, the castle “fell” into their hands when an Ottoman warrior managed to enter the castle disguised as a monk.

We continue our journey, following the direction of the riverbed, which offers us uninterrupted views of the valley. We reach the highest point of the route, having covered 3.5 km, and now begin a descent through sparse vegetation and even rockier terrain. We enter a short section of forest again to reach a small road that ends in a dirt road. This forest road leads us to the chapel of Ag. Konstantinos, where we complete our journey.

The route is 6 km long and the total elevation gain is 590 m. Make sure you have a vehicle waiting at the end point, as the round trip is particularly demanding and time-consuming. Recommended months for hiking in the area: May-June and September-November. Avoid visiting the valley after heavy rainfall.

In addition to lush trails with impressive views, when you visit the Tempi Valley you can also enjoy other activities offered by outdoor activity companies: canoeing/kayaking, rafting, via ferrata, and simple road trips to picturesque villages.

The old railway line is also ideal for introducing a new and increasingly popular activity, mainly abroad but also in some areas of southern Greece: rail biking. By cycling on the old abandoned tracks of the line, using special hand-powered rail bikes, commonly known as rail bikes, one can experience the grandeur of the valley while also having the opportunity to pass by the most important historical sites in the area. In this way, this historic railway will be brought back to life and take on a new, enjoyable aspect, entertaining and informing visitors. For more information about this activity, send a message at railbiking@gmail.com

Between the villages of Rapsani and Tempi lies another well-hidden gem of the region. One of the largest arched bridges in the Balkans, the “bridge of Omolio,” parts of which still survive today, along with a few arches, is unfortunately almost invisible and difficult to access due to the lush vegetation.

Places like these, where the elements of nature come together so seamlessly and offer such excitement, creating images straight out of a fairy tale, cannot fail to fill the human mind with inspiration and strength. They effortlessly manage to equip us with courage and passion despite the dark shadow that has covered them. All that remains is to give them a chance and approach them anew. Then we are lucky. We find meaning, we encounter a simple and meaningful life.