The village of Aidipsos

The village of Aidipsos, seat of the Municipality of Aidipsos until 1912, is located 2.5 km north of Loutra. It is a beautiful village that lives in the shadow of the development of the coastal Baths, where the seat of the municipality was transferred. In the heart of the settlement, in the cool square, we visited the church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, built in 1860. This is the Panagia of Aidipsos, which dominates with its imposing bell tower. Until 1900, the inhabitants lived in the village. Since then, things have changed and the action has moved to the coastal spas.

The thermal waters

People have always sought explanations to understand the world around them. The more complex the world, the more incomprehensible the phenomena, the more they turn to myth to find answers. Mythology says that the goddess Athena, protector of Hercules, asked her brother Hephaestus for a place where the demigod hero could enjoy the baths and rest from his labors. And so, Hephaestus struck the bowels of the earth with his divine hammer and brought hot and healing waters to the surface. Strabon, in his “Geography,” calls them Therma of Heracles, while Herodotus and Aristophanes refer to them as Loutra of Heracles.

At the same time, the myth of Deucalion and Pyrrha highlights the cosmogenic significance of Aidipsos. When Zeus flooded the Earth as punishment for the human race that had received the gift of fire from Prometheus, Deucalion and Pyrrha fled to Aidipsos. There, they begged the gods to forgive them and grant them offspring. Hera advised them to bathe together in the warm waters that flowed from the springs if they wanted to have strong and healthy children. The couple followed her advice and, after a short time, Pyrrha gave birth to Hellen, the father of the Greek races.

How else can one explain the healing water that gushes from the bowels of the earth? Science, of course, attributes this energetic action of the place elsewhere, as Aidipsos is built next to the now extinct volcano Thori, to which it owes, to a large extent, its mineral wealth and thermal springs. The beneficial subsoil of Aidipsos and its hot springs have been known since ancient times. Aristotle gives his own interpretation in his “Meteorologika”:

For it seems that the sea penetrates beneath the earth;
and that is why the hot springs around Aidipsos came into being.

Hippocrates introduced hydrotherapy as a method of healing many diseases in his work On Airs, Waters, and Places, and thus healing through water ceased to be the preserve of priests. Asclepieia were transformed into medical clinics, run by doctors, and balneotherapy was practiced systematically and methodically for all kinds of diseases. Aidipsos now specialized in gout, musculoskeletal and gynecological problems.

Plutarch, in his “Symposiacs,” in the fourth problem (Eἰ ἡ θάλασσα τῆς γῆς εὐοψοτέρα), writes that in the 2nd century BC, Aidipsos was a magnet for the intellectuals and bon vivants of the time. He describes not only the natural beauty and rich flora and fauna of the area, but also the famous banquets that accompanied the spa treatments. This is because, in addition to the variety of dishes, bathers had the opportunity to enjoy the intellectual nourishment offered by all-night discussions. The house of the Aidipsian sophist Callistratus was transformed into a prytaneion for the scholars who came there, and Aidipsos became a bustling and extremely popular place.

The cave of Sylla

In Plutarch’s Parallel Lives, the Spartan general Lysander, victor of the Peloponnesian War, is compared to Lucius Cornelius Sylla, the Roman general notorious for persecuting his opponents. In this work, Plutarch mentions that Sylla, returning in 83 BC from the war against Mithridates, suffered from gout and was forced to go to Aidipsos for treatment.

Sylla, while staying in Athens,
he suffered from a painful swelling in his feet,
which Strabon calls gout.
He then traveled to Aidipsos, where he used the hot springs to relieve his pain…

Today, behind the EOT hydrotherapy center, near the church of Agioi Anargyroi, there is Sylla’s bath, known as Sylla’s cave. The entire building has been covered by deposits from the sulphurous waters that gush out, giving the impression that it is the entrance to a cave. At the entrance are two massive pedestals for statues in honor of the Roman emperors Hadrian and Septimius Severus, offerings from the municipality of Istiaia, as revealed by the inscription “Eistiaion e polis” (The City of Istiaia). You enter the cave and perceive the spaces as rooms of a hydrotherapy center. A void above you makes you imagine a fallen dome, while you bend down and see an almost natural bathtub. It is the bath of the Roman general. Since then, the name of Sylla, one of the greatest slaughterers of the Greeks, especially the Athenians, has been used honorably in Aidipsos, due to the glamour that the spa town experienced from his visit. The ultra-modern Thermae Sylla hotel and spa center is proof of this. Also, the old hydrotherapy center of Agioi Anargyroi was formerly called the Municipal Baths of Thermae Sylla.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the area was deserted. There are many reasons for this desertion. With the spread of balneotherapy during the decline of the Roman Empire, some baths were turned into places of corruption. It is no coincidence, then, that Christianity became a relentless enemy of balneotherapy centers at a time when religious fanaticism led to excesses. Theodosius, viewing every pagan center as an adversary, destroyed Aidipsos twice. The beautiful city was reduced to ruins, statues were broken, and temples were burned. With the passing of time and the calming of passions, Christianity recognized the therapeutic value of hydrotherapy. Many monasteries were founded near spa towns, and the view prevailed that water washed away sins. The chapel of Agia Paraskevi, near the village of Aidipsos, offers incredible views. The wooden tables and benches under the shade of tall trees invite you to relax. There you can see the ruins of two important monuments. The Venetian Tower of Aidipsos and the church of Agia Paraskevi. The monastery of Agios Georgios of Ilion, hidden in the vegetation, is a women’s monastery, well-kept, with vegetables planted in large pots. Some 19th-century travellers identify the location of the monastery with that of the oracle of Selinuntius Apollo. The entire ancient site of Aidipsos lies buried beneath the newly built spa town, and whatever comes to light as finds, mainly from the Roman and Byzantine periods, is discovered by chance during various construction projects and new building works. There is a very interesting archaeological collection in Aidipsos, housed in the interior and exterior spaces of the EOT Hydrotherapy Center. Most of the exhibits are related to balneotherapy and local cults in antiquity.

The past of the spa town

Of course, the spa town in its organized form was not built in a day. Initially, there were rudimentary private hospitality businesses, mainly in the homes of Aidipsos residents who had troughs in their courtyards. From 1842, the municipality of Aidipsos collected bathing fees from bathers and gradually began to build wooden huts. At that time, Othonas and Amalia visited Aidipsos. Enchanted by its natural beauty, German professor Ludwig Ross, who accompanied the royal couple on their trip, described the area in the most glowing terms. As early as 1884, when the first plan for the town of Aidipsos was approved, reconstruction of the new spa town began, and in 1887 its development started again. The Baths of Aidipsos began to be permanently inhabited from 1900 onwards. Until 1907, no residents were registered, because the Baths were only used during the summer months, while spa therapy lasted, while during the winter months, life was mainly confined to the village of Aidipsos, leaving the coastal settlement in hibernation. The Baths expanded towards the beach after 1910, with the sole purpose of serving tourists, as the buildings that were constructed were mainly hotels, restaurants, pastry shops, and entertainment centers. Boats came and went regularly, mainly during the summer months, carrying more and more visitors. In 1922, Aidipsos received a large wave of refugees from Asia Minor, who were distributed between Loutra and the village of Aidipsos. At first, they settled provisionally in the town of Loutra, but later houses were built outside the town, forming the so-called Soinikismos (Settlement). Thermopotamos was the natural border separating the Settlement from the town.

Since the pier at the port of Aidipsos was small and the waters shallow, steamships did not approach the port, but relied on boats to transport passengers to and from them. The large hotels had their own boats, which brought their customers to their docks. The profession of boatman gradually disappeared. Regular ferry services in the Gulf of Evia were operated from 1947 by the passenger ship Kyknos, which departed from Chalkida and, with intermediate stops at Limni and Aidipsos, ended up in Volos. In 1959, with the development of the Athens-Lamia national highway, the Aidipsos-Arkitza ferry line began operating.

The elite

A number of luxury hotels and hydrotherapy centers are being built by pioneering entrepreneurs, and around these large investments, other smaller ones are developing, boosting tourism and economic growth in the region. “Heraklion,” “Stadion,” “Ai Pigae,” “Ethnikon,” “Kastalia,” “Anesis,” “Artemision,” “Kentrikon,” “Istiaia,” “Panellinion,” “Crete,” “Palladion,” “Elpis,” “Parnassos.” Greek names, in contrast to the xenomania of recent decades. From the early 1900s, passengers on the Evian steamships could see the magnificent seaside hotels that housed mainly members of the urban middle class. The influx of people led to a need for communication. A post office has been operating since 1900 and the first postcards were printed. It is impressive that by 1960, approximately 500 cards of Aidipsos had been printed. Cards that preserve the old grandeur. Almost all of them feature the port, the casino, the high school, and the iconic Stadio and Heraklion hotels, built from Aidipsos stone, and of course the Thermae Sylla, due to its dominant position and size. The existence of a casino before the war is impressive. The building has not survived to this day, except in the collective memory of the older generation. International personalities from the worlds of politics, art, and wealth, such as Eleftherios Venizelos, Atticus, Churchill, Greta Garbo, Maria Callas, and Omar Sharif, enjoyed their stay and had a good time.

Saranta Platania (The Forty Plane Trees)

I admit we didn’t count them, but we trust in the power and value of names. Of course, the magic number forty is probably just an approximation. However, the exact count is of little value, as the plane trees—however many there are—offer wonderful shade and coolness and create an idyllic space for all kinds of recreation. The taverns will make your mouth water. You will either give in or hide deep in the woods so as not to be tempted by the smells. There, in Saranta Platania, there were springs. In the past, there was a fountain for drinking therapy. For this reason, in the past, those who wanted to use the baths set up makeshift camps made of tree branches and became spa campers. This explains why the first accommodations and hotels—with the exception of Thermai Sylla—were built in the Platania neighborhood, as that was where the heart of the spa town beat. The Aidipsos Baths are fed by the Thermopotamos, a stream of hot thermal waters, which was covered about 50 years ago to serve the functional needs of the city. We saw the Thermopotamos in old postcards. And we can guess that it is covered under the street of the same name that crosses the city.

Balneotherapy today

I remember my grandmother and her elderly fellow travelers going to Aidipsos for twenty-one days of balneotherapy, with their prescriptions and social tourism vouchers. Twenty-one consecutive days, exactly as recommended in ancient times. A paradise for the elderly. It is evident everywhere. There are many bakeries, large-size clothing items, robes and dressing gowns on hangers, and a calm pace of life. But now something is about to change, as Aidipsos tries to preserve its former glory and redefine itself. While until a few years ago, thermal baths marked the beginning of old age, today younger people seek physical and mental balance in their rejuvenating properties, as well as a more positive approach to life. After all, you don’t have to be ill to seek out thermal medicine. On the contrary, you can enjoy balneotherapy as an investment in your future health and well-being. For those who find twenty-one days of balneotherapy too long—and too expensive—there are wellness and relaxation programs available. And this is the new trend that is being followed.

George Skourtaniotis from the 9 Queens hydrotherapy hotel, as he calls his nine royal rooms, guided us through the secrets of Aidipsos. We followed the path behind the iconic Heraklion Hotel and began to descend the narrow street until we reached the nudist beach. We were greeted by a German woman in a bikini who complained about our clothes. We collected colorful pebbles on Monopetra beach and began to philosophize about life. George’s family had bathtubs. That’s how it used to be. A hot spring gushed in his grandfather’s yard. People came to the troughs in his yard, so it became a trough. It’s the fourth generation. The troughs and bathtubs gave rise to hydrotherapy centers and accompanying hotels. Only the Papaioannou hydrotherapy center does not have a hotel and is solely a hydrotherapy center. It has been operating continuously since 1880 in Platania, using exclusively thermal water from the hot spring of the same name, i.e. the saline spring. The high-ceilinged rooms, the impressive colored ceiling, and the restored individual baths combine old aesthetics with modern needs. Today, three hydrotherapy centers have their own source.

The Aidipsos Thermal Spa belongs to the Public Real Estate Company. The water is so hot that it needs to remain in a tank until its temperature drops and it can be piped into the bathtubs. We went straight to the spring and were impressed. Water gushes out hot and heats the surrounding area, spreading scents similar to its components. We imagined the scene on a winter night, when the temperature difference creates a magical setting. We were told that the thermal water gushes from a depth of up to 3,000 meters at temperatures of 75-85 degrees Celsius. We were shocked to hear this… These are hyperthermal springs, third in Europe in terms of temperature. The springs are rich in hydrocarbons, chlorides, sulfates, calcium, sodium, and carbon dioxide. We asked if the spa treatments are effective. Our winters are less painful, the locals tell us. We have seen people arrive in wheelchairs and leave with walking sticks, the staff tells us. The place has energy. Next to the springs, you can see archaeological finds. And you hear Romanian and Russian spoken, as Balkan believers flock to the surrounding monasteries. Above the city, Mount Telethrion—famous in ancient times for its medicinal plants—adds to the healing waters and holy springs.

Gournes (Throughs) and the yellow-red rock

There are over sixty hot springs scattered in various locations. The water gushes out with force, abundant and clear, like a jet, diffusing water vapor into the air and gas bubbles. For an exceptional and completely free experience, we recommend a dip in the coastal pools. They are located on Thermae Sylla beach and are free and easily accessible to all. The water is very hot, almost unbearable. That’s why you enter hesitantly, testing it with your fingertips. Then, slowly put your whole foot in until you get used to the temperature. It’s kind of like going into the freezing sea. The best time to enter the pool is early in the morning or late at night, to avoid crowds and waiting. We recommend the middle of the night. The water steams, the salts, minerals, and all kinds of elements give off their distinctive scent—not unpleasant at all—and you sink in and relax. Then you feel divine, as you are covered by warm water, for as long as you can stand it, while outside the trough is the sea. And the illuminated Aidipsos in the background, like a magical backdrop. You take the energy of the water and continue energetically.

For those who cannot tolerate such hot water, we recommend embracing the spectacular rock, also located on Thermae Sylla beach, stand at its feet, like the legs of a yellow-red elephant, and let yourself be enveloped by the warmth of the hot water that flows and laps against the rock. This rock, a landmark and trademark of the spa town, was created from the sediments of the thermal springs. A spring called Queen Olga’s Spring gushes from it. In 1910, Alexandros Moraitidis described the rock so eloquently that no other words are needed.

The water of this waterfall, boiling hot and bubbling,
with its mud and fossilised sediments,
has transformed the rock into a gently rounded giant cheek,
through which it flows, thick and hot, warming even the sea, as those who have swum there say.

Architecture

The traditional Aidipsos stone, unique in the world, is a fossil of thermal waters, i.e. a product of solid deposits left by water over the centuries. It played a dominant role, therefore, in the architecture of the buildings, as it was widely used as a natural decorative element. Both from near and far, the architecture of the Aidipsos Baths is clearly related to the city’s function as a center for thermal tourism. The stone hydrotherapy centers and hotels exude elegance and nobility. By 1940, a beautiful, spacious, cosmopolitan city had already been created. At the end of the 19th century, the independent Greek state began its reconstruction. As was the case in many Greek cities, the urban plan was entrusted to Bavarian scientists. Tourism reconstruction began in earnest in 1896 when the large landowner Errikos Tombazis built the first modern hotel complex, Thermae Sylla. Since then, it has been a trademark of the city.

The old hydrotherapy center, designed by Ziller, with its horseshoe shape, makes you nostalgic for the past. And critical of the present. Why so much neglect? From the windows, you can see bathtubs, mattresses, and washbasins in terrible condition. The walls are worn and covered with graffiti from every era. This elegant building deserves to be preserved, restored, and brought back to life. It should cease to be an architectural ghost.

The Old Post Office is another building of outstanding architecture with a dome, representative of the buildings of Aidipsos Baths during the interwar period. The hotels of the aristocracy, haunted hotels, are begging to be brought back to life. Heraklion by Heracles. The striking red building at the end of the beach, with rusty padlocks and overgrown walls. The springs. On the verge of abandonment. It operates on a war veterans’ program. With torn awnings flapping in the wind, closed windows and faded surfaces, crumbling balconies and loose marble. And yet, if you close your eyes, its glamorous past is faintly visible. We searched for the city’s famous stone aqueduct. We saw it from below, tried to approach it, but there was no longer any access. The weeds had done their job, blocking every passage. The residents tell us that many projects have been carried out in recent years, such as the square, the redevelopment of the park, the reshaping of the rock, and the promotion of the Aidipsos stone. We would also suggest the restoration and promotion of the aqueduct.

The park with the speakers’ podium, the small parliament, and the sayings

You must be the change you wish to see.
The problem is that you think you have time.
Nature is beautiful because you judge it and it never judges you.

These are handwritten signs on trees, most of them signed by Χ.Σ., probably a folk philosopher. In imitation of London’s Hyde Park, or rather in a fruitful transfer of an ancient institution, there is a speaker’s platform in the municipal park of Aidipsos, between the elementary school and the Thermai Sylla hotel. A modern municipal church can be convened at any time to discuss current political and other issues. Contemporary churchgoers, sometimes in formal attire and sometimes in swimsuits, sometimes serious and sometimes joking, approach the podium and make use of their freedom of speech and candor. If only this institution could be revived more systematically elsewhere. However, we have seen something similar in churches, even in the small church of Agios Fanourios, something that leads to participation. These are the green benches in the churchyard. Rows of benches like students sitting in class.

It is not only the magical waters that offer tranquility and relaxation, but the entire atmosphere of the city. Perhaps because the spa town was originally created to serve the needs of elderly people, perhaps because the infrastructure has been designed to be accessible to all, or perhaps because the landscape itself demands it, one thing is certain: in Aidipsos, you will find a peaceful pace of life, tailored to human needs. As for the prices of goods, products, and services, what should apply everywhere applies here. Prices that are affordable for everyone. A form of democratization in the enjoyment of goods. Something that is unfortunately lacking in many tourist areas of our country. Beyond the thermal waters, however, there are also the sea waters that work their magic. Beautiful beaches with sand and fine pebbles, and the gentle, warm waters of the Gulf of Evia.

Over time, the old troughs became bathtubs and the bathtubs became hydrotherapy centers. The hydrotherapy centers became hotels offering hydrotherapy services, and these in turn are now being converted into thermal spa suites and wellness hotels in an effort to survive by attracting a wider audience, both in terms of age and income. However, beyond the material and business dimensions, there is also a metaphysical one. You immerse yourself in the warm waters, carriers of primal energy, and feel as if you are being reborn, as if you are being rejuvenated.

And this inner rebirth can mark a change of course: a conscious pursuit of well-being. Well-being means being at peace with myself, with others, with my body that houses my soul. For this reason, the ancients built theaters next to the Asclepieia. They created centers of culture for healing the soul next to centers for healing the body. For the sake of certainty, the theater of Epidaurus is clear proof of this.

We owe our thanks to Mr. Anargyros Fagridas, a tireless historian, who opened his home and library to us, enlightened us with information about the area, and led us into fruitful discussions. And, of course, to George Skourtaniotis for opening his doors to us, revealing his secrets, and sharing the delicious jams from his accommodation.

Bibliography

Nikolaos Patsalis, The Postcards of Aidipsos