We discovered Limnos in the spring of 1999. Its tourist glamour was – even then – very subdued. Gradually the big island started to escape from obscurity and to claim its place on the map of tourist destinations. Today, 18 years after our first meeting, we have come to realize that Limnos still retains its charm unchanged, mixed with a lot of the innocence of that time.

Limnos 18 years later
We discovered Limnos in the spring of 1999. Its tourist glamour was – even then – very subdued. Gradually, the big island started to escape from obscurity and claim its place on the map of tourist destinations. Today, 18 years after our first meeting, we have come to realize that Limnos still retains its charm unchanged, mixed with a lot of the innocence of that time.
We rediscover Limnos
We wonder why we made the decision to return to Limnos. (1) We concluded that it was mainly nostalgia and a strong desire to revisit some of the special places we loved so much on the island. So, here we are again, sailing for Limnos from the port of Kavala.
Four and a half hours later we enter the port of Myrina, under the familiar bulk of its impressive castle. We leave the crowded harbour area and head SE, towards Platy. The journey takes no more than a few minutes. As the last light dims in the cloudless sky, we arrive in front of the spacious garden of “Villa Aphrodite”.
The outdoor environment is stunning : we are greeted by the delicate scents of holy chapels and jasmine trees. A special section houses the well-tended vegetable garden, which feeds the kitchen of the establishment every day. Elsewhere there are the fruit trees, dominated by pear and cassia trees. On the manicured lawn grow dozens of tufted shrubs, all trimmed in fanciful geometric shapes : spheres, parallelepipeds, cubes and pyramids. Interspersed among them are many large jars and, amidst the overall greenery, the transparent blue of a swimming pool is interspersed.
This is where the dining area of the unit is housed. Several people, mainly foreigners, enjoy their dinner in this environment of absolute tranquility. We taste the excellent cuisine of Mrs. Aphrodite with the charming company of the white Limni wine, famous for its delicate aroma. Later, in the pleasant space of our room, the first night – after so many years – in Limnos, gives us rest and peace.
On the peninsula of Fakos
One of the most special areas of Limnos is the peninsula of Fakos. From our very first visit, the narrow strip of land, which like an umbilical cord connected the massive peninsula with the central-southern part of the island, has attracted our attention.
With an inaccessible road network and complex hilly terrain, the Fakos Peninsula had revealed to us then a lonely place, where the only living creatures were flocks of sheep, graceful partridges and an all-white horse in the green background of a meadow. Despite our wanderings, however, the Peninsula had kept many of its secrets hidden.
After Platy we continue along the coastal road network to the E. We cross the traditional settlements of Thanos and Kontia (2) and reach the coast. Here, the protagonist of the landscape is the ‘Diapori’, the narrow sandy isthmus that connects the southern part of Limnos with the peninsula of Fakos.
The altitude of the isthmus is low and it is assumed that part of it has been formed by the silting up of torrents. There is also the view that at one time there was no isthmus and the Fakos peninsula was an island. (3)
Between two bays, Diapori is interposed : the bay “Vourlidia” on the E (which is the westernmost end of the great Gulf of Mudros) and the bay “Kontia” on the W. Here, the cove’s point ends in a liliputian sandy beach with molas and fishing boats moored in absolute bunach. In a privileged spot, in front of the sea, is the “Ouzeri tou Menelaos” which, for this time of the morning, is ideal for a coffee.
A good dirt road penetrates from two directions to the Fakos Peninsula. We first choose the shorter route, at A. A deserted beach with dark sand and three straw umbrellas. No human presence. Two boats, tied to a small, wooden ladder, rocking briskly in the foamy waves of the gray sea. A dirt road continues parallel to the shore. A large house with trees and reeds, a rural hut near the sea and the chapel of St. Theodoros. On the dry ground, a vineyard is interspersed. Further on, a private area begins and the road is blocked with a lock.
Returning inland, we find stalls with oleander and tufted fig trees. Many sheep are stabled (sheltered from the sun) in the shade. A rough dirt road, a stable and a water well. Continue on a better road network towards the interior of the peninsula, heading south. It is a route not shown on the map.
Sheep and goat paddocks, dry stone walls and wells, gullies and hills bare or cultivated with grain, pastures and landscapes of austere, deserted, unadorned beauty pass through our field of vision. The hilly terrain is revealed by successive folds of ground, the lower parts of which are decorated with colourful oleander. The images are so varied and unexpected that it is impossible to bore our eyesight.
The road goes uphill, the highest peaks of Fakos are visible to the east, Skopos with 319 and Vigla with 264 meters. To the right of the road appears the Chapel of the Cross, while higher up on the left, a barn with human presence. Goats flee to the right and left. On the west-southwest pelagic horizon, we can make out the outline of Agios Stratis.
Coming out on a neck with an old stone house, we are hit by fierce gusts of wind. We descend down a very steep and rough stone road. All around are deep ditches and bare slopes.
The landscape could be authentically lunar if it weren’t for the countless oleanders growing in the depths of the gullies. The roofs of a complex of stables stand out in the wilderness. About 100 metres later, in a storm of oleander, the road ends at the edge of a steep slope, at an altitude of about 80 metres above the deep blue surface of the Aegean.
We could ruminate for hours in this magnificent wilderness, but there are other secrets hidden in the Phakos. Passing – on the way back – by the area “Kriara”, we meet the breeder Christos Strongylos from Kontia. In the vast space of his pen, 400 sheep are stabled, at this time of the day, crammed next to each other.
We arrive at the original fork, at the entrance of the Lens. We have travelled 8 kilometres from the end of the route to here. We are already starting on the dirt road, marked on the map, parallel to the western coastline to the distant chapel of Agia Efimia. We leave the fork to our right towards the famous “Kokkina” beach, with the prospect of visiting it on the way back.
With an uphill and very difficult detour to the right, we reach the abandoned Military Outpost of Fakos. Returning to the main network, we again cross the site of a large stable and shortly afterwards reach the end of the route. We are already at the south-western end of the peninsula, at Cape Stavros, about 6 km from the entrance of Fakos.
A narrow strip of land connects Cape Stavros with the end of the coast. Two twin coves are formed respectively in the north and south part of the strip of land. The B cove is smooth and sandy, while the N cove is steeper and pebbly. Just above the rocks of the N bay, the historic chapel of Agia Euphemia, which the locals call Agiathymia, dominates. (4)
With a rudimentary path we ascend in a few minutes to the hill of Stavros. There is a strong dry stone fence on the hilltop. We look down at the chapel and the plan of the twin cove. The tranquility is unique.
We take the way back. We find again the detour to Kokkinas Beach and reach the mantra of Antonis Landouris, a native of Kontia. His establishment has everything: an old house, storehouses, a barn and threshing floor, sheep, goats and cows. The corral is built on the front side of a hill that cuts the north wind. Nice place, a real agnadi on the horizon of the sea. And we can’t help but remember Nikos Sifounakis’ great reference to the paddocks:
“There are infinite paddocks, scattered all over the island. They are buildings that, in terms of construction and materials, have not changed over the centuries. Their orientation was such that they were protected from the north wind. Also, the originally one-room building gradually evolved and became organised. In other words, from a place of simple shelter it became a place of sleep, stay and work for the farmer and the farmer’s keeper.
The simplicity and simplicity of the whole construction is impressive. The main materials used are stone, wood and reeds. Stone, which is abundant in Limnos, finds here real craftsmen, who build excellent buildings without the use of mortar. These humble buildings, the mantras, are still preserved in excellent condition in Limnos.
But the farmer of Limnos, when he built his sheepfold, aspired that this simple structure would remain for centuries, because the needs for the sheep and domestic animals would continue to exist after him. The anonymous farmer was thus transformed into a popular craftsman who tried to combine functionality, beauty and durability in his work.
Barb’ Anthony’s family and assistants come and go in and out of the various facilities of the paddock, each dedicated to his work. The 76-year-old farmer is willing to accompany us a little further down to the beginning of the trail to “Kokkina”. We return excited by the wonderful sandy beach, the impressive reddish rocks, the overall uniqueness of this beach on the western coastline of Fakos.
Afternoon now. After the long hours of wandering around the mainland and the coast of Fakos, we go out again to Diapori. It’s time for a relaxing stop at Menelaus’ ouzo. In front of us, in the cove of the bay, the boats rest in calm waters. Out in the open, the weather is raging. In the ouzeri, mulberry and acacia trees, tables and wicker chairs, earthen floors. A little chippo, a salad and a few day-old barbel, caught in the local seas. Soft music and reverb. The Greek summer in its most authentic form.
- Elliniko Panorama has devoted two multi-page articles to Limnos: in issue 12, Spring 1999, with 48 pages and in issue 13, Summer 1999, with 54 pages.
- “Thanos” and “Kontias” are ancient settlements, first mentioned in the early 14th century.
- In the 2nd century AD the Rhodian sophist Nicostratus mentions Phacos as an island. A 15th century map also refers to Phakos as an island, under the name of Agios Antonios. The earliest reference to the place name as ‘Phakos’ is on a map of 1588.
- According to tradition, the relic of Saint Euphemia arrived here from Constantinople in a urn during the Iconoclastic period (770-775). In 790, the Empress Irene had the relic of the saint’s tabernacle brought back from Limnos to Constantinople. Our church commemorates the memory of Saint Euphemia on 16 September.
- “The Mantras in Limnos”, ed. Kastaniotis
Surf Club Keros
From our initial visits to Limnos, the memory of Keros beach was vivid. It is the vast cove with its fine and white sand and shallow turquoise waters. It is a unique combination of a welcoming beach and natural beauty.
After so many years we rediscover the white lilies of the sand, the beautiful native cacti, the strange volcanic rocks. This time, however, we see in Keros a very important development. The alien wildernesses have given way to a gentle exploitation of the geophysical and climatological peculiarities of the place.
It is the surf club “Keros”, a surf center with a vision and ambition to offer its visitors unique thrills.
Excellent facilities, beautiful outdoor spaces with planted bushes and flowers. It is a wonderful feeling to drink coffee or have lunch while gazing at the windsurf and kite surf moving swiftly in the undulating waters of the bay. We walk around the resort’s facilities, the teaching schools, the luxury accommodation tents, the dining and café areas. We chat with instructors and trainees, the operation managers. We ask them how the idea of creating a surf center in Limnos came about. They begin to bring up their memories in an attempt to bridge the present with the past.
“A past that began 10 years ago when we spent endless hours sailing the coast of Western Australia, searching for waves and wind. That’s when we first started to look at our favourite hobby, surfing, from a different perspective. And in such a way that our work “dress code” included flip flops and swimwear! How would that work? Well, by creating a Windsurf School. A school, but a different one, that would incorporate all the experiences we had gathered from all the trips to the surfing centres of the world. So we put down our knowledge from the Greek islands. We rejected Dodecanese and Cyclades because they were saturated with schools. We also rejected the Sporades because of the low winds. And then the idea of Limnos, which was for many years the “secretspot” of some, northern – mainly – Greek surfers, was put on the table.
We had heard various stories about the surfing paradise of Keros with its endless, safe and beautiful beach. We came to Limnos, set up a weather station, made measurements and statistics of the winds. It was all ideal. That’s how “Surf club Keros” was born, initially as a windsurf and kite surf school.
For 3 years we managed rooms in the surrounding area, to meet the accommodation needs of visitors. And then we chose an alternative and ecological solution, based on “clamping”, i.e. Glamorous Camping, which was becoming a global alternative trend. It combines the freedom of camping without sacrificing the slightest comfort and luxury, since inside the luxury safari tents there is coco mat furniture, plasma TV, nespresso coffee machine, spacious bathroom, terrace with hammocks, A/C and so much more…
-What are the characteristics of Keros Beach?
-It is, first of all, a huge beach, almost 4 km long. No matter how crowded it is, it is never crowded. It has shallow, sandy waters, turquoise in colour, it is the safest, the ideal place to learn and develop windsurfing and kite surfing. As for its winds, Keros works with the Melemi (N-NE wind) but its advantage over other surfing destinations is that it also works amazingly with southerly winds, especially in the months of April, May, September and October. The wind we have in the summer months is on average, 4-6 bf, but there are days with stronger winds. The difference with other islands is that the wind is morning and is at its “strongest” from 10am to 3am. Later it turns side – off and drops in intensity, making Keros a great place for beginner lessons, with its vast flat and 3-4 bf winds.
The beach has 3 different tracks, the ultimate flat in the northern part of the bay, a bump and jump track in the central part and a mini wave spot in the south of the bay, with a small but layered wave, perfect for beginners in wave.
We must also emphasize, that we attach great importance to safety rules and the comfort space that must exist between windsurfers and kitesurfers. An amazing climate has developed between them and there are many occasions when they help each other on the water. We have a special fondness for our little friends. We help them to acquire the “surfing bug” from an early age, with all the positives that this hobby can have in the rest of their lives. For this purpose we have created 4 separate weeks of children’s activities called “Keros surfing birds”. It is a very special experience”.
The honeybee in Keros is getting stronger, directly affecting the speeds of the windsurfers and kitesurfers on the water. A transparent, turquoise water, giving the vast bay an unparalleled beauty.
Keros beach, Kalliopi, Limnos
Tel. 6981 484112, Tel. 6980 776064
http://surfclubkeros.com
“Therma” The thermal baths of Limnos
We leave Myrina in a northeastern direction, towards the Airport and Moudros. At 6 km turn right towards Therma. We find ourselves in a natural environment, which completely contradicts those ignorant people who insisted – or still insist – that Limnos lacks vegetation.
Plane trees and towering eucalyptus, wild blueberries and acacia trees, oleanders and reeds cover the wider area of a gully with a stream of water. An unusual image is visible on the left of the road: some people have placed bottles and cans in front of a water source and are waiting for their turn to fill them. This is the famous Thermae water, recommended for both bathing and drinking.
It is clear, palatable and light water. We find it in the open-air dining area and café of the “Therma Spa” Wellness and Rejuvenation Centre. The facilities of the complex are located in a beautiful valley at an altitude of 100 meters, next to the lush ravine. Around the valley, hills rise up either covered with oaks, pines and cypresses, or with bare, rocky slopes. Very close to the south-east, on the top of a steep hill, the chapel of Prophet Elias stands at an altitude of 356 metres, which is ideal for a nice hiking route. The present chapel dates back to 1872 but underwent a radical renovation in 2001.
The use of thermal springs in Therma is known since antiquity, the Roman and Byzantine period. According to legend, Hephaestus was brought to Therma by the Siddians, the inhabitants of Limnos, to heal his wounds after falling from Mount Olympus. We have a lot of information about Therma from foreign travellers who visited Limnos.
The baths were already operating in 1548. In 1780 Hassan Pasha built a guesthouse and new bath buildings. In the modern times the baths were in operation until the early post-war years. In 1928-30 Athanasios Vafeas and his sons tried to develop them, planting trees on the site and building a hotel and a refreshment room. Their effort, however, was not completed.
Today the complex is functioning after the excellent restoration by Vangelis Giarmadouros. He takes us on a tour of the facilities, with the individual and double baths, the vaulted rooms and high-ceilinged rooms, the ceiling openings that allow natural light to penetrate through crystals. The combination of the hardest local stone, perfectly chipped and used in the lintels, stairs and pilasters is outstanding.
The use of the Therma Spa facilities is indicated for various diseases such as arthritis, osteoporosis, spondylitis, rheumatism, arthrosis. The baths also function as a rejuvenation centre and spa, while promoting special cosmetic products, with raw materials from the island of Limnos.
Telephone number: 22540 62062
The Ammothines of Limnos
One of the most spectacular and unexpected images of Limnos, 18 years ago, were the famous Ammothines. We had discovered them at the north-western end of Limnos, after a 40 minute walk from the stunning beach of Gomati. It is impossible to forget our unsteady footsteps sinking into the thick sandy beaches under the hot May midday. With a little imagination we had the feeling that we were living authentic desert conditions.
Today we retraced our route northwards, passing successively through Corno, Sardes, Daphne and Katalakko. Here the asphalt ends, the dirt road begins to descend. Signs informing us of the distance to Gomati beach and the sand dunes ! Such a development was, simply, unthinkable in those times, when sand dunes were almost unknown to the general public. Now they have become famous and it is not necessary to hike to the … desert, since there is a well-paved dirt road leading to them !
Another recent development is the tavern “Flomari”, next to the chapel of Panagia, at the S end of the beach of Gomati. We leave it for now and continue towards the sand dunes. With a good dirt road we reach in a few minutes the view pavilion, which has been created for visitors. From an altitude of 100 meters we look out to the E – NE at the wonderful bay of Gomatiou and to the W at the strange, exotic landscape of the sand dunes. Their area is estimated at 70 hectares and their creation is due to the erosion and deposition of sand in the coastal areas.
We relive the experience of the … desert in the hot sun, with our footsteps leaving deep footprints in the brownish-blond sand that covers flat areas, gentle hillsides and steep slopes. Blossoming oleanders, wild olive trees and wisteria. The adaptability of these plants to the harsh soil conditions of the sand dunes is admirable. To the west, with a steep descent, the dunes end in a lush ravine. There is one of the most isolated paddocks of Limnos. It used to belong to uncle Vassilis and Nitsa. Who in the distant 1999, apart from cool water in the shade, had kissed us with yeast bread and their own sheep’s cheese. And, above all, abundant human kindness. Sadly, those nice people are no longer here.
We return to Gomati, that stunning beach on the north coast of the island of Bali. Limnos. Canvas and umbrellas, caravans on the seafront, beach bar “Escape”, preparations for the reception of visitors. We head to the northernmost part of the beach. Here the sand dunes reach the shore. Impressive volcanic rocks start from the land and penetrate the sandy beach.
On the rocks of the coast is built the chapel of Agios Nikolaos. In front of the Lilliputian bay, just 20 metres from the coast, a small island rises from the surface of the water. One can reach it on foot, as long as one is prepared to accept the idea of getting knee-deep in water and avoiding sea urchins. The overall scenery is magical.
We return to the southern part of Gomati. This is where the chapel of Panagia is built. Next to it, at the top of the hill, just above the water, is the tavern “Flomari”. We are greeted by Malama Banavou and Nestoras, very nice and kind children. As a welcome, they offer us, after the heat, ice water and chippuraki. What to describe and praise first! The spot with the incomprehensible view of the sandy hug of Gomati. The sweet little taverna with the cool meltemi and the little tables in the shade. The excellent service and the friendliness of the children. Or, finally, the variety and deliciousness of the tavern’s dishes!
The tsipouro of Málamas’ father, Mr. Kostas, was wonderful and the bread made by Mrs. Fotini was excellent. Malama brings us Limnos fava beans, dacos with zucchini and amazing parsley salad. Delicious is the homemade “Flomari”. (1) We couldn’t miss an excellent tomato salad, with krytama from the rocks of the coast.
We are enjoying the Greek summer, here in the northern outskirts of Limnos, in this wonderful little tavern. Which started its operation just a few days ago, on June 20, 2016. We wish it longevity and we are sure that it will always have its customers as happy as we are.
Flomari is a handmade pasta of Limnos. It is made with pure local ingredients such as Limnos flour, milk and eggs. It is superbly combined with braised rooster but it is also served plain with scratched Limnos cheese.
Nea Koutali – Museum of Maritime Tradition
Two large bays, “Pournias” in the north and “Mudros” in the south, are responsible for the characteristic shape of Limnos. Around these two main bays, a coastline with an extremely complex dissection develops, which is responsible for the disproportionately long – in relation to its size – length of the coast of Limnos. (1)
In the western cove of the bay of Mudros, in a bay as long as a fjord, we find Nea Koutali. The settlement is built amphitheatrically on the midday (southern) slope of the hill “Strobolithos”. Refugees from Asia Minor settled here in 1926. (2) With an excellent layout, the village extends from the pine-covered hill of Agia Triada and ends in a stone-built harbour, with excellent protection from all weather conditions. Many boats and small fishing boats, just rocking in the gentle breezes of the gravel. There’s an old sponge shop, the last one left. Pulled ashore, it waits patiently on its pegs for the lift it has been promised.
The refugees in Nea Koutali continued the maritime tradition of their island in Propontis, as captains, sailors, fishermen and sponge-makers. Few were the farmers. Thus, in 1938, there were 15 sponge boats with about 50 divers in Nea Koutali, which produced more than a ton of sponges a year.
This tradition of the maritime life of the Koutalians is presented in the small but very nice “Museum of Maritime Tradition and Spongalia”.
Our guide is the young and nice Rania Fragaki, who is mainly responsible to show us around, since she is the granddaughter of a sponge maker, the current pastor of Koutali, Aggelidakis Evangelidakis. The extremely interesting exhibits are divided into three sections. The first one depicts the maritime life of the Koutalians through relics and archival photographs of the old homeland.
The second section is dedicated to spongery, the components of sponge boats, the types and tools used to process sponges. The original, traditional costume worn by sponge divers when they dived into the depths is impressive. So vivid is Rania’s description of the dangers of diving and the – at times – serious disabilities or even casualties of the sponge divers, that we feel suffocated inside the heavy, metallic diving boat.
In the third section the tension is released. Here the archaeological collection of N. Koutalis is exhibited, with objects recovered by sponge divers from the seabeds, such as a large collection of amphorae and ceramic utensils, parts of ancient anchors and other objects from ancient shipwrecks. The collection began to be built up in the 1950s-1960s on the initiative of the then headmaster of the Koutali Primary School. (tel. 22540 92383)
In N. Koutali, however, apart from the Museum of Maritime Tradition, there is also a very special private collection. It is of Uncle – Kostas Psarras, the well-known Dantinis. He is the last sponge maker of Koutali, now 87 years old. We meet him in the courtyard of his house with his wife, Mrs. Panagiota, born in Thessaloniki of Koutalians parents. Uncle Kostas’ collection is inexhaustible, containing countless sponges and souvenirs of the sea, collected over a lifetime. There is a huge variety of sea-themed souvenirs and some very impressive sponges. Among them are some taken from the depths of Benghazi in 1961. There is also a “Kampadiko” (3) taken 70 years ago from the depths of Chios. (Museum tel. 22540 92473)
The hot afternoon finds us in a particularly cool part of Koutali. Not on the seashore, as one might expect, but in a shady alley on the village’s high ground.
There, among a very beneficial bouillabaisse, are the tables of “Glaropoula”, the fish tavern of Bambi and Froso. The family business (tel. 22540 92325) has been operating for 35 years, since 1982, specializing in fresh fish that Bampi and other fishermen catch from the local seas.
There is nothing here that is not exceptional : the huge grilled squid, the marinated anchovy (which rivals mine in deliciousness), the vibrant barbel. The fried zucchini and potatoes, produced by Bambi, are wonderful. But our friend saves the surprise for last. It’s two huge pine cones, probably the biggest we’ve ever seen. Their length is up to 70 centimetres!
-The biggest I have taken out, says Babis, was 80 cm !
He serves us one of them raw, with its authentic taste and the unchanged spiciness of the sea, while the other is cooked with a sauce in red wine. Any description is poor to do justice to this delicacy.
Although Limnos is 9th in size among the Greek islands, it is 4th in coastline length, just below Lesvos which is, in area, almost four times the size of Limnos (Lesvos: area 635 sq. km. Limnos: area 476 sq. m. in area, coastline 259 km.)
Nea Koutali is the second village of Limnos, after Agios Dimitrios, where refugees from Asia Minor settled. The most famous child of Koutali was Panagis Koutalianos, who became world famous for his muscular strength and his exploits. He was born in 1847 in Koutali of Propontis and died in 1916. His descendant Dimitris Koutaliannos (1915 – 1999) continued the family tradition.
The “Kambadiko” is an almost spherical sponge species, dark brown in colour, caught at depths of 9 to 80 metres in Crete, Evia, Dodecanese and Cyclades.
Ancient Hephaestia
The northeast coastline of Limnos is dominated by the wide bay of Pournias. The curvilinear bay of Tigani is formed in the eastern part of the bay, which in its southern part ends in the enclosed cove of Achivadolis. The place has a very special beauty. I wrote in 1999: ‘… we suddenly find ourselves in front of one of the sweetest landscapes we have ever seen on the island… a small embrace of shallow waters, whose calm surface is undisturbed by any wrinkle’.
In the northern part of the cove, on the low hillside of the Paleopolis peninsula, the Ancient Hephaestia extends on a sloping surface of 10 acres. The first excavations were carried out by the archaeologist Alessandro Della Seta, head of the Italian School of Archaeology, from 1926 to 1936. Thus, the largest and oldest – during historical times – city of Limnos (1000 BC – 1200 AD) was discovered.Among the many monuments that have come to light, the most important is the Theatre, built on the NE side of the peninsula of Paleopolis. The original theatre must have been rectangular, with wooden seats for the spectators.
The later stone theatre, which ranks among the oldest in the Greek world, dates to the end of the 5th or the beginning of the 4th century BC. The earliest phase of the stone theatre includes the orchestra, in a perfect and complete circle 12.40 m in diameter, and the lower part of the cave, with ten rows of seats.
On the hillside, on the remains of the oldest wooden theatre, the “epitheatre” was built. Officials and citizens were seated in the first rows of the theatre’s seats. Large rectangular slabs of limestone from the Hephaestia quarries were used for these rows. On the other hand, the seats of the theatre, where the women and slaves sat, were built of cheaper materials, which were small and large slabs of local slate and limestone.
When, in 1999, we visited Ancient Hephaestia, the theatre was quite damaged. After its very good restoration, however, it was opened to the public in 2010 for theatrical performances and concerts as part of the – already well-established – “Festival of Ancient Hephaestia”.
We walk for a long time around the archaeological site, admire the theatre, the tranquility of the bay, the opposite cape “Kalogeros”, with the amazing Sanctuary of Kabeira. Then, we set out to find out where the dirt road that crosses the peninsula of Paleopolis in a northeastern direction ends. The narrow road descends steeply on very rough terrain. About a kilometre later, a lonely and secluded coast of unexpected charm is revealed. Combining a stunning sandy cove and a rocky coastline, with inaccessible shoals, rocky caves and geological formations very special.
We could not leave the place without having a coffee with our good friend, the ceramist Dina Despoteri. We find her in Kontopouli in the workshop she has been running since 1992. With her works, inspired mainly by the ancient Limnos culture, she builds bridges between the past and the present. An innovation of her workshop is the reproduction of the seals of the “Lemnian Earth”, that special earth, so famous for its healing properties in the centuries of the past. For this special activity, Dina Despoteri has been awarded an honorary diploma with a medal. (Tel. 22540 41538 and 6932 982236).
Hours of Peace in Kotsinas
Two opposing capes, Cape Sotira and Cape Falakro, delimit the wide opening of Pournias Bay to the north. It narrows in the southern part, creating a perfectly sheltered cove. Here is the fishing village of Kotsina, with its sandy beach and picturesque little harbour. When we first visited Kotsina in the spring of 1999, it was deserted. So we limited ourselves to the sights of the place, the ruined castle, the bronze statue of Maroula, the sanctuary of Zoodochos Pigi. (1)
Then we had penetrated into the dark bowels of the earth, carefully descending the 65 steps to the sanctuary by the dim light of torch and candles. Today, some of the mysticism of the underworld descent has been lost. The narrow steep staircase, from the surface of the earth to the sanctuary, has been electrified. But even the steps, which in 1999 I counted 65, today I count 64.
Another change in Cochina is the image of the waterfront. Back then it was deserted. Today, three little taverns, one next to the other, are dotted over the placid waters. It is the most attractive call for a tasty stop in this place of absolute beauty. We stand indecisively in front of the shops. Which one to choose? All are well-appointed and quaint. Suddenly, a catchy as well as strange name catches our attention: “SeaRokkos”! We like it, it brings to mind sea winds. It is, moreover, the most secluded, the last in the series. We take a chance and sit down. We don’t regret it. We are greeted by kind people, who bring us freshly cooked gavro, chicken “pouches” (a very special specialty) and very tasty fried zucchini, so many that despite our best efforts, it is impossible to eat them.
A gentle breeze lightly ruffles the shallow waters, the heat of the afternoon sun setting. We relax in our chairs in front of the seafront. It’s a good time for reflection and reminiscence.
- There is a detailed report in issue 13 of 1999. There the epic of Maroula during the “Battle of Kotsinou” (today’s Kotsina) in the Venetian times is told. In 1475, the Turks, under Suleiman Pasha, attacked the fortress of Koczino with large forces and powerful artillery. Despite the fierce resistance of the defenders, the time of the fall was approaching. Then Maroula saw her father, Isidoros Komnenos, provost of Limnos, fall dead. She did not hesitate for a moment, grabbed his sword and with the cry “Freedom or death” she attacked the Turks unstintingly. This desperate action acted as a catalyst for the morale of her compatriots, who fell upon the enemies and drove them into disorderly flight. This wonderful feat was praised in a poem in the 17th century by the Italian poet Guglielmo Dondini, while Kostis Palamas also dedicated one of his most beautiful poems to ‘Maroula of Limnos’.
The Xanadu of Ethalia
After “Villa Aphrodite” and Platy, in the area of Myrina, we move east to the second – after Myrina – town of Limnos, Moudros. Built on the eastern cove of the homonymous bay, Moudros is mentioned for the first time in 1355, in a document of the Monastery of Megisti Lavra. South of Moudros, and at a distance of less than 3 km, we can see a small complex of stone buildings perched on a hillside. It is our accommodation, the “Aethaleia”.
We ascend from the asphalt road the 900 meters of the good dirt road and reach the xanadu of Aithaleia. On the terrace with the top view we are welcomed by Apostolos and Fenia. The bay of Mudros stretches low with a majesty of stately splendor. The size of the bay and its deep, winding entrance to the mainland make it one of the largest and safest natural harbours in Greece.
As dusk progresses, the clouds begin to thicken. Already in the west, in the area of Myrina, the storm is breaking out. We stay in our “box” for a long time, facing the fiery tongues of fire that spectacularly furrow the darkened sky.
After nature’s nightly outbreak, the morning dawns bright and shiny. The clarity of the atmosphere in the NE takes us to Samothrace and Imbros, while in the NW it ends at the vertiginous, sharp-edged peak of Athos. Clinging with intense amphitheatricality to the NW slope of a hill, Aithaleia is more reminiscent of self-contained private villages than a tourist accommodation. The exceptional masonry is composed of local stone in earthy tones of beige, ochre, brown and brick with interspersed subtle use of wood. On the paved floors, the grouting consists of small pebbles, forming a variety of decorative themes. There are many spots indoors or outdoors that visitors can choose to enjoy a coffee, a drink or the unit’s homemade cuisine. A unit that started its operation in 2010 with the prospect of offering its services also in winter. The spaciousness of the rooms is stately, while the level of furniture and bathroom amenities is high. Staying in Aithaleia is, in every respect, an excellent experience.
On the beach of “Parthenomytos”
We were introduced to Parthenomytos as a deserted beach at the mouth of the bay of Mudros. We set out to get to know it. From Moudros we head to the SE end of Limnos and at the height of Agia Sofia we turn right (D) : A passable dirt road crosses an extensive bushy area, almost flat. About 4 km later the road takes us to the beach of Parthenomytos. The only human presence is an elderly local couple, who have arrived here in a farm truck. They greet us politely but soon leave. We are left all alone on the extensive coastline.
It’s nice to spend time on the lovely sandy beach with its warm, clear waters. Across to our W beckons the familiar, massive peninsula of Fakos, with its rocky coastline the cape “Knots” and the islet “Kastri”. The sun is getting low, at its ends the day is getting more and more beautiful. The tranquility of the place is unique. Except for the imperceptible fluttering on the sandy beach, no other sound interferes with the peace of the evening.
With enough light still in the sky we slowly take the route back. And then, suddenly, a wild rabbit pops up on the road. Immediately afterwards another one appears, and then another. As the light fades, they become more numerous. Their cute little figures fill us with joy. Of course, the farmers and peasants of Limnos do not have the same feelings towards them. They are paying dearly for the geometric increase in the number of wild rabbits, with the loss of a large proportion of agricultural and vegetable products.
Ammos suites
A gentle hillside dominates the east of the sandy beach “Platys Gialos”. On its slope, built in a slightly amphitheatrical manner, is the “Ammos Suites” complex. There are 12 apartments of excellent construction, with spacious rooms, fully equipped and care in every detail. Each apartment has its own unique identity, and all have access to the magnificent garden with swimming pool and unobstructed sea and land horizon.
Equally pleasant and functional are the common areas with breakfast and living rooms. There is an almost constant breeze that is very beneficial.
Operating only since 2014, Ammos Suites is an excellent complex, which raises the level of Limnos tourism.
Some special Lemnian products
One of the most charming tours in Limnos is the tasty wanderings through the very special products of the island. We were lucky enough to get to know and appreciate several of them during our stay. And first of all the Thyme Honey of Limnos. We tasted it at the premises of Dimitris Palaeologos, a third generation honey producer. A total of about 65 people are employed in beekeeping in Limnos, with a number of hives reaching 6500. However, there are only 5 professional beekeepers. (1)
As regards the composition of Limnos honey, Dimitris states that it consists on average of 50-60% of thyme pollen, whereas – according to the legislation – in order for a honey to be considered thyme honey, it must have at least 18% of thyme pollen. The percentage depends on the year and can go up or down. The maximum percentage of thyme pollen can reach 95%.
Our next stop, after honey, is something completely different: the Limnios Kafourmas. We discover it on the premises of the Palestra family, on the main road, very close to Kornos. In their newest shop, which started operating at the beginning of June, we are welcomed by Nikolaos Palaistras and his father, Lefteris. He remembers with nostalgia his childhood, when his grandfather Lefteris used to prepare, with boiled pork from the family’s pigs, the handmade crabmeat of the house. Following the same traditional recipe, today’s Palaistra family continues to produce the excellent crabmeat. Not only for the needs of the family, but also for the many local and foreigners who enjoy spicy delicacies.
We observe the shelves and displays of the shop. Everywhere, Limnos products: familiar and unknown wine labels, honey, tahini, pasta, the well-known Limnos cheeses, the “afkos” of Limnos (the local fava beans) and everything else that Limnos produces.
Organic Vineyard, of Savvoglou – Tsivola. “Limnos Organic Wines” was founded in 2002 by the Chemical Engineer – Oenologist Yannis Savvoglou and Pantelis Tsivolas, an executive with extensive experience in the wine market. The unit is ultramodern with privately owned and cooperating vineyards in Agios Dimitrios, Sardes, Kontopouli and Daphne.
We try the “Journey to Limnos” with the familiar, special taste of the “Muscat of Alexandria” (2) variety, the rose semi-dry “Rodon”, from ‘Muscat of Alexandria’ and ‘Limnio’, the red semi-sweet ‘Thoa’ from ‘Cabernet Shauvignon’ and ‘Limnio’ and finally ‘La Terra’, a dessert wine made from overripe grapes, 15 degrees.
Our new wine tasting destination is Karpasi, next to Atsiki. Here, in the location “Lagopati”, is the dry vineyard of the “Hatzigeorgiou Estate”. We are welcomed by the oenologist Paulina Hadjigeorgiou. New adventures of smell and taste await us in the amazing tasting room of the unit. We first taste the white “Lagopati”, from the “Muscat of Alexandria” variety. The next is the dry white “Limnia Earth” and “Hephaestus Gnosis” a sweet white wine, 14 degrees, from overripe Muscat. Our excellent taste impressions at the Hatzigeorgiou Estate are completed with “Limnia Earth”, a dry red wine from the old variety “Kalambaki or Limnio”. (3)
We would love to continue our exciting tasting journey to the other wineries of Limnos. We are not lacking the mood (how could we be), we are lacking the time. We look forward to continuing next time.
Epilogue
As I write my last lines I hold in my hands the map of Limnos. Once again I notice the incredible details of the coastline, the complex network of dirt roads that spreads like a cobweb across the island, the countless chapels and dozens of settlements, the archaeological and soil characteristics of the island. And somewhere in there I start to fear that with all the long hours of wandering, there is much more, important and interesting, that I didn’t have time to get to know from Limnos.
I hope to be able to return soon. Not only for new discoveries. But also to recall the pleasant moments we had with so many nice people we met in Limnos.
The production of thyme honey amounts to about 10% of the total honey production in Greece. The best thyme honey comes from the islands and Crete.
Muscat of Alexandria’ or ‘Muscat Chondro’ (because there is also ‘Muscat Mikrorago’) belongs to the P.O.P. Limnos area. This variety (also called ‘English’) occupies the largest area of the Limnos vineyard and was brought to Limnos at the beginning of the 20th century by Egyptian Lemnians.
‘Kalambaki’ is the red grape of Limnos, an old variety, known in the rest of Greece as ‘Limnio’.
The first organized winery that operated in Limnos, in 1958, was the Union of Agricultural Cooperatives (U.A.S.) The first private wineries appeared in the mid-1990s. Savasvoglio, S. Gharali, Em. Garali, N. Koukoulithra, I. Kremmida, A. Tzannerou, D. Maya and P. Vastardou – Chona.