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A tour at the Monemvasia trails

Το πρώτο μονοπάτι είναι άμεσα ορατό, επίπεδο σχεδόν και παραθαλάσσιο. Κινείται περιμετρικά της Χερσονήσου της Μονεμβασιάς, μας χαρίζει μερικές εντυπωσιακές εικόνες του μεγαλόπρεπου βράχινου όγκου και μας αποκαλύπτει κάποιες αθέατες λεπτομέρειες από το ιστορικό παρελθόν του τόπου. Το δεύτερο μονοπάτι απευθύνεται μόνον στους ενημερωμένους και μυημένους. Διασχίζει την όμορφη ενδοχώρα, συναντάει την περίφημη βυζαντινή Μονή της Παναγίας του 11ου αιώνα και κάποια στιγμή, αγναντεύει από ένα απίστευτο σημείο, που θυμίζει αεροφωτογραφία, τον Βράχο της Μονεμβασιάς. Είναι μια εμπειρία πραγματικά μοναδική.

Text: Θεόφιλος Μπασγιουράκης
Photos: Άννα Καλαϊτζή
A tour at the Monemvasia trails
Categories: Activities
Destinations: Laconia, PELOPONNESE

Winter in the Southern Peloponnese. Snow and oranges, white, frozen Taygetos and temperate plains. Images contrasting, unexpectedly exciting. Nowhere else in Greece – except perhaps the unpredictable Pelion and Crete, which is capable of anything – does one encounter with such emphasis, with such realism, the harmonious coexistence of such contrasting weather conditions. In this blessed place, so desirable for us northern travellers, we decide to welcome the new year.

The last images we leave behind us are the snow-covered highlands of the mountain ranges of Sterea, Parnassus, Vardousia and Giona. The further south we drive, the more winter is getting colder, the snow is delayed in reaching the mountains. Only the unruly Taygetos is an exception to the rule. As we approach Sparta, it welcomes us all-white, along the entire length of its successive peaks, to the legendary pyramid of AiLia. It is the undisputed leader, the most wintry, the most imposing mountain of the Peloponnese.

-And the most beautiful in Greece, our Laconian friends in Sparta add with absolute certainty. We do not do them justice. They have gazed upon its own peaks with such overwhelming immediacy throughout their lives, from their earliest years to their latest. How could they not love him? But he too returns their love, observing them from up there, sometimes laughing and sunny, sometimes dark and cloudy, but always alive and expressive.

FROM SPARTA TO MONEMVASIA

After so many trips to Laconia, we have a long-standing intimacy with the city of Sparta. A calm city, with an excellent layout, spacious and relaxing. The wide streets and squares, the low building heights let the sunlight and the movement of the air freely. Here there are few cramped and dark corners, the horizons are open to all.

The city of Sparta is also very visitor-friendly, as it is very easy to access. Equally easy is the exit and the direction to the famous tourist and historical destinations of the wider region: Mistra, the mountain villages of Parnonas and Taygetos, Elafonissos and Kythera, Gythio and Mani, Monemvasia. It is on the latter that the interest of this trip is mainly focused. Not to wander again – as so many times in the past – the cobbled narrow streets of the historic Kastropolitia. But to discover an aspect of it that is unusual, ignored by the vast majority of its visitors and many locals. There are some trails that can reveal to lucky hikers unexpectedly charming perspectives not only of the famous rock with its imposing bulk, but also surprisingly unseen landscapes of the wider region.

Our destination in Sparta is – once again – a hotel that has inextricably linked its name with the city’s recent history. It is the charming in appearance and extremely hospitable in service, Menelion.  It has been built since 1935 in the most central and most functional part of the city: the stately avenue Konstantinos Paleologos. Its long straight road leads to the southern exit of the city towards Gythio, Monemvasia and the other destinations of southern Laconia.

If we wanted to describe the route briefly, we would say that it is a vast and continuous orange grove. To the eyes of northerners – like us – it is a spectacle of unusual, irresistible beauty. The branches of the trees are bent overloaded with innumerable oranges, many of them touching the earth. There are, of course, tangerines and olive groves, with many interspersed with centuries-old olives. A blessed place, it absolutely pleases the eye and the soul.

Our destination in the area of Monemvasia is equally beautiful. It is the traditional settlement “Velies“, 77 km from the city of Sparta. The large village is amphitheatrically built on the gentle slopes of a hill, surrounded by olive and orange trees. Nestled among these beautiful trees is the “Liotrivi“, which will accommodate us during our stay in the Monemvasia area.

IN THE ROCKS OF THE DIVINE ROCK

At noon we reach the seaside settlement of “Gefyra“, opposite the Rock and the Kastropolitia of Monemvasia (1) Here we meet the man who has willingly undertaken to introduce us to the hiking peculiarities of the place. He is Christos Panagiotopoulos, cave explorer, mountaineer, and above all, a pure nature lover. Who is not from Monemvasia, as one might expect, but from the mainland of the Peloponnese from the mountainous Voutsi of Gortynia. However, having lived in Monemvasia for over 30 years and having done a lot of important work opening paths and caring for the natural environment of the place, Christos is considered more Monemvasian than many locals. So three days after our experience with the idealistic nature lover Vangelis Zografou in Pavliani, we are lucky to meet Christos in Monemvasia, who is characterized by similar principles of nature lover and philanthropy. After meeting such people, we feel that we have every right to see a crack of optimism in the future of this place.

In two minutes we cross the bridge that separates us from the peninsula of Monemvasia and we arrive in front of the tourist complex “Lazaretto“. A red marker on the stones indicates to the west the -in any case- obvious path around the rock. A rock of a God, which, no matter how many times we see it, always arouses awe and admiration.

Our route starts with a narrow and passable path over the wild rocks of the coast. Very quickly the awesome limestone crags rise above our heads. After so many visits to Monemvasia it is the first time we have such a direct, such a realistic view of this majestic geological creation of nature. A nature that gives us wonderful images of the opposite, northern shores of the bay. It is the stunning undulating relief of the Zaraka mountains, which are the furthest reaches of the great Parnon mountain range to the south.

We are now passing low down, under a section of the northern wall of the city. The path is always sweet, in stark contrast to the wildness of the place. We are accompanied by bushes of broad-leaved sage, with a very strong scent. Equally fragrant are the oregano boughs. The only small disadvantage of our route is that it is always on the dark side of the castle, the “ascetic” side. Only later in the afternoon will it be illuminated – to a certain extent – at this time of year. Very high up, a part of Agia Sophia, the iconic 12thου century church built on the edge of the cliff, appears. A few minutes later, in the dizzying heights of the limestone cliff, a twin cave looms, a nest once the nest not of eagles but of ascetics. These are the ascetics, in inaccessible parts of the rocky islet, belonging to the category of cave temples, without architectural peculiarities. (2)

A surprise is in store for us after a while on the path. It passes by a large dome-shaped reservoir of excellent construction. The walls, up to a height of about 3 metres, are covered with hydraulic mortar. On the floor there is a lot of water. We estimate the length of the tank at 11 metres and the width at almost 4 metres. Gradually the path loses its civilized character, becoming rough on solid rocks just a few meters above the water surface.

Off the coast of the Myrtoo Sea, a small island stands out. It is the lonely and remote Parapola, with its legendary ultra-central lighthouse. (3) We have already reached the eastern edge of the cliff and are turning south. The shadow has given way to the abundant sunlight. The temperature has risen considerably, and so has the intensity of the wind. Seven metres below, the water foams. The path is now pure stone, rough and sharp, requiring care in walking.

Exactly one hour after our departure we are in front of the lighthouse facilities. Built in 1896, with large chipped stones, the lighthouse of Monemvasia preserves – despite its advanced state of disrepair – the glory of its excellent architecture. According to the data from the book by Yannis Skoulas (4), the height of the tower is 7 metres and the focal height is 17 metres. Since the lighthouse’s ‘retirement’ from active service, the task of providing light has been taken over by the adjacent electric ‘spark’.

A 5-minute walk after the lighthouse the path ends, we reach the eastern gate of the castle and penetrate the city. Nature loses its primacy, dominant in our field of vision now emerges the legendary Castle City. With its exquisite architecture of lodgings, houses and churches, with its warm earthy colours, strong ramparts, narrow streets and cobbled streets. It is all this amazing scenery that has endowed Monemvasia with that special character, which is unique in Greece.

SAINT-FRIDAY-MONEMVASIA

ATHEATRICAL PATH WITH A LONELY GODDESS

Before the day is even well lit, the images in the direction of the east become magical. Through the mist of the valley emerge wisteria cypresses, olive trees and vines, undulating mountains. Washed away by last night’s rain, nature participates in the coming of day with millions of dewdrops, shimmering on the grass and branches. We remain on the balcony of our room at “Liotrivi”, humble admirers of the new winter day dawning.

-Today we will leave the coast, we will move inland, Christos says.

We start from the bridge to the south and, about three kilometres later, we reach the seaside settlement of Agia Paraskevi. In front of the tavern of “Pippinelis” we find the sign of the path and go uphill to the right towards the interior of the settlement. Narrow road, stone houses with well-kept yards and, immediately outside the village, we leave the car at the beginning of the path.

11:55′ We depart from an altitude of 40 meters in a N direction. Cross a shallow gully and ascend on a rocky but passable path. A little lower down, a large stone cistern, which served the needs of the old village, looms. Between our footsteps, delicate, colourful brushstrokes project between our footsteps. They are blooming cyclamen, purple anemones and other wildflowers, which on the 3rd of January welcome us to the mountain path. In our wake, thyme and sage are fragrant, Overgrown is the wild limestone soil of schist, thorns and sea urchins, and there is no shortage of foliage, holly, wild olive and carob trees.

The same diversity as the earth is displayed high up in the sky. Its background is deep blue, but countless clouds, some silvery and some leaden, do not stop running for a minute. It is true happiness to walk in such conditions at the beginning of the new year.

There are goat darts. We discern them watching us from the safety of a rocky hilltop.

-“Some of them have been born on the mountain, Christos says, they are no longer different from wild ones.

12:35′ 40′ after our departure the continuous and quite steep climb ends. We are at an altitude of 240 metres and we move slightly north-north-west at the foot of the Samaraki hill (alt. 375 metres).

Already in front of us, as an extension of the ground, a set of stone ruins looms.

-This is the famous Byzantine Monastery of Panagia, says Christos. It must have been founded in the 11thο century and was reconstructed in 1546 by the Monemvasian Gregory Graikos. This is how it came to be known as the “Monastery of Gregory“.

We arrive at the idyllic plateau of the monument, at an altitude of 260 meters, after a total route of about 50 minutes. We are welcomed by a large twin carob tree. Although heavily dilapidated by the hardships of time, the monastery is still very imposing, with its fortified masonry, the one-room and roofless catholic, the marble slab with the impressive venerable inscription. The auxiliary buildings are also in ruins, while a cistern is fairly well preserved.

We stroll between the half-stone walls and the stone walls, admiring the absolute solitude, the serenity and the austere austerity of the landscape. A true retreat of spirit and soul. Outside the ruins, Christos paces back and forth across the grass, bends down, observes, and walks alongside

-Do you spot grass? -I ask him.

-Yeah, I’ll come back and pick it up. It’s “Bitters”, “Gurgulians” and “Bresses”. And here’s a Roca. Here on the high ground, with the humidity of the atmosphere and the sun, they are incomparably delicious.

13:00 We find the red signs outside the monastery and cross the small meadow in a NW direction.

About 80 metres later we meet a second, larger cistern, with a domed roof. We continue beside it on a prominent path, covered with a lot of tile-coloured mud, which sticks excruciatingly to the soles of our shoes.

In two minutes we reach a fork in the route.

To the left (W-NW) the path leads to the settlement of Agios Nikolaos. We continue N-NE towards Monemvasia.

The path starts slightly downhill, among bushes and plenty of thyme. We try to balance on the stones, avoiding the mud. A mud that seems to be everywhere.

-Be patient, it won’t always be like this, Christos reassures us.

It’s not long before it comes true. Little by little the stones are becoming redundant and the mud is diminishing. The slope of the ground becomes steeper. We march over the wild canyon of Agia Anna, with bushes, gullies and limestone slopes. A sparse but fascinating landscape. Which is just a prelude to what’s to come.

13:30 Words cease to have any value. The image we see is beyond description. The rock of Monemvasia is revealed from below in the most impressive way that any of us could imagine. And if it were not for the narrow strip of land connecting it to the coast, it would look like a volcanic cone that had just risen from the depths of the seas.

All our movement has – of course – stopped. Christos enjoys – and rightly so – our enthusiastic reactions : the exclamations and comments of admiration, the countless photographs taken by Anna, my own agonizing attempts to convey with my humble words on paper, all that impresses my aesthetics and my vision. I am trying to recall some other spectacular shots that have impressed me in my travels in Greece: the view of the triangular peninsula from the pinnacles of the castle of Halki, the extravaganza of the beaches of Balos and Gramvousa in western Crete, the aerial view from the heights of Kochyla to the bays and deserts of Skyros, the incredible view, from above, of Voidokilia, some images of Kastoria and Kavala from the heights of the mountains. This image of Monemvasia deservedly occupies a special place among them.

We start to descend the steep slope with meandering. The path is supported by a built-up wall, now and then interspersed with a thickly built cobbled path. Mount Samaraki reveals spectacular limestone slopes with rock caves in its northern part. In between, traces of masonry from old tents are clearly visible, with remains of Byzantine frescoes.

-Our ambition is to open a safe path on this wild slope, says Christos. This way this very special monument of Orthodoxy will be accessible to more visitors.

In the last few hundred metres the slope of the ground becomes steeper. Furthermore, in some places the path is – after the rains – slippery and needs attention. However, no difficulty can diminish the immense pleasure of the unique spectacle of the rock, which is always in front of us.

14:10 Two hours and a quarter (with all the stops in between) after our departure, the miracles are over. We are back at sea level, content to admire the rock up close. As, moreover, any visitor who has not had the privilege of gazing at it from above.

IN AGIOS NIKOLAOS WITH 4X4

-Can you bear to continue? Christos asks

-Could we refuse?

-We will not move on foot but with 4×4. It is a nice route, with interesting religious monuments, to Agios Nikolaos. There, Yannis Maroulakos will be waiting for us, with the wonderful local flavours of his tavern.

So we start again south of the bridge, and after Agia Paraskevi we go uphill to the right towards Nomia and Kalyves. From the towers of the small settlement of Kalyves, founded by shepherds in more recent times, the view of the sea is stunning. A short dirt road, which requires four-wheel drive in winter, leads us quickly to Tairia. It is a small settlement next to a wooded ravine, with traditional houses that are only occasionally inhabited. Apart from the beautiful natural environment, the most important attraction of the place are the two Byzantine churches of Panagia and Agia Anna. οAccording to the archaeologist Nektarios Stagos (5), ‘the two churches belong to an old monastic complex which, according to written evidence, was in operation from the 10th century. In their interior, frescoes of the 13thου century are preserved. The natural spring of water that gushes out of the rock where the church of the Virgin Mary is founded is impressive. This spring used to supply the water mill located in the Tairiotiko stream.

We admire the austere Byzantine frescoes, the water source with its powerful flow and we are sad that such a beautiful traditional settlement has not been developed and exploited as a very desirable tourist destination.

We continue on the dirt road to Agios Nikolaos, a nice route with lush slopes. 2.5km later, a fork heads east, initially on a narrow dirt road and then on a path, which near the Gregory Monastery, meets the path of our morning route to Monemvasia.

At a distance of 3.8 km from Tairia we reach the square of Agios Nikolaos, at an altitude of 210 meters. The highlight of the square is the impressive Byzantine church of the 11thου century, with frescoes dating back to the second half of the 13thου century.

In the afternoon, after the constant activity of the day, we all feel hungry. It is the best time for a delicious break at the tavern “Traditional“, behind the church. Beautiful interior, with a lit fireplace and excellent sanitary facilities, a sign of quality and culture. Yannis Maroulakos welcomes us warmly and settles us at our table in front of the fireplace. His daughter, Irini, brings in advance a wonderful local tsipouro with the family’s elitses picroutsikes, produced this year. Yiannis’ fresh agoura oil is also excellent.

-Everything you taste is made by us, with raw materials and local products, says Yannis. As proof of his words, he first brings a platter of “tsaitia”, those special pies with various wild greens or cheese.

-These particular ones contain “Magunids”, “Muggletails”, or “Kaucalithres” and “Galataki”. They have also tame greens, a few lettuce and spinach.

Next up are the “Goges“, the delicious homemade fresh pasta, popular in many areas of the Peloponnese. The fried potatoes are produced by Giannis, fried -of course- with fresh olive oil. Here is the rustic rooster with wine, a very exciting tasting experience. The wonderful meal is completed with fresh myzithra of Yiannis accompanied by local honey.

OPTIONS

Evening hours across from the Rock, with two very special people: our new friend Christos Panagiotopoulos and our old friend and collaborator Yannis Kofinas. He travelled tonight from Molai to meet us. A true happiness to share time with two idealistic nature lovers. And to discuss with them, sometimes with youthful enthusiasm and optimism and sometimes with reflection and scepticism about rare flowers and endangered birds, about caves, springs, paths and peaks, about irresponsible people and indifferent politics, about a country, after all, that despite everything that happens to it, has the potential to transcend, to transform itself into one of the most special places in the world, the most desirable.

 

THANKS

-Kyriakos Klapsis and his cousin, also Kyriakos Klapsis, for their hospitality at the agrotourism guesthouse “LIOTRIVI” in Velies and at the hotel “FLOWER OF MONEMVASIA“, with the very nice view of the rock of Monemvasia.

-Jannis Maroulakos, for the cordiality and the excellent flavors at the restaurant “PARADOSIAKO”

Finally, we especially thank the mountaineer and nature lover Christos Panagiotopoulos, who brought us in contact with the wonderful world of Monemvasia’s paths and Bampi Lyra, President of the Municipality of Monemvasia’s tourism development committee.

 

USEFUL INFORMATION

Accommodation : Agritourism guesthouse “LIOTRIVI” Velies tel.2732053060 www.liotrivi.info/hotel-monemvasia.html

“FLOWER OF MONEMBASIA” tel.27320 61395 www.flawer-hotel.gr

RESTAURANT : Restaurant “PARADOSIAKO” Agios NIKOLAOS tel. 27320 53430, 6977022260

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Issue 97
Ιανουάριος 2014
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