Kythera is not small. With a surface area of 278 square kilometers, they rank 17th among the Greek islands. The length of the coastline, however, is not proportional to the size of the island. The outline is rounded; long capes, deep bays and bays are absent.
The perimeter is therefore limited to only 52 km, while Astypalaea or Salamina, with about 1/3 of the area of Kythera, have twice as long a coastline.

–How did the Diakofti spread like this? Anna wonders in surprise. I find it hard to recognize it after all these years.
It took 20 years for Anna to find herself in Kythera again. I, however, had not been able to set foot on the island until now. Even though I had been so many times to the opposite Peloponnesian coast, Malea and Tainaro. It is therefore a great thrill for me that, even so late, I am preparing to get to know a place that has been legendary since antiquity. And how could it not be, when from the foams of the sea of Kythera emerged the goddess Aphrodite, the personification of absolute beauty.
In his book “Synoptic History of Kythera“, Emmanuel Kalligeros mentions that Homer calls Aphrodite “Kytheria” in his epics. According to the famous traveler Pausanias, moreover, there was an ancient sanctuary of the goddess in Kythera, which even had a xeoanos. Identified with the birth of Aphrodite, Kythera was surrounded by the glamour of the mythical place, where love and eternal peace prevail. This romantic view gained ground in the 18th century, mainly in France, through the works of famous representatives of the intellectual and artistic world. And Calligeros adds very eloquently, “in the ancient worship of the goddess we must also seek the name of the delicious local fruit, produced in the village of Mitata and constituting a local variety of peaches, which the locals call “Aphrodite’s Masks“.
HEADING WEST
Kythera is not small. With a surface area of 278 square kilometers, they occupy the 17thth place among the Greek islands. The length of the coastline, however, is not proportional to the size of the island. The outline is rounded, long capes, deep bays and bays are absent.
The perimeter is therefore limited to 52 kilometres only, while Astypalaea or Salamina, with about 1/3 of the area of Kythera, have twice the length of the coastline.
The journey to Kythera from the opposite Neapolis does not exceed 1 hour and 20 minutes. Beginning of July, hot afternoon. We arrive in Diakofti. Waters clear and shallow, turquoise in colour. We, however, cross this challenging paradise unaffected and take the long road that slopes inland. Hillsides dry, dried by the sun. Non-existent shadows. What shadows to cast on the earth by the toadstools, stones, thymes and bushes!
–It looks like a dry land, Anna catches up with me. You’re not wrong, Kythera is not Samothrace. But they are not Cyclades either. Where we are going you will see landscapes that you will find it hard to believe belong to the island.
Heading west, after 16km we meet the settlement of Aroniadiki, a nodal point on the arterial road that connects the northern and southern part of the island. From Aroniadika we take a minor road to the settlement of Pitsinades. 450 meters later we meet our accommodation, with the original name “LIGHT AND SPACE”
We are very kindly greeted by a Dutch couple, Anita and Albert.
The view from the altitude of 360 meters is excellent. The land horizon is wide, with varied terrain, olive and cypress trees, several villages in between. The sea horizon ends at the two famous capes of the Peloponnese, Tainaro in the northwest and Kavos Malia in the northeast.
A cool maestro, removes the heat of the afternoon and any thought of using an air conditioner.
Amazing balcony, coffee and reminiscing. Inside the two-room accommodation the ergonomics, furniture and utensils are impeccable. With smart solutions, simple choices and high aesthetics, the Dutch make excellent use of “space and light” in the land of light.
IN THE SETTLEMENT OF MILOPOTAMOS
Anna’s choice of accommodation was no accident. Its location is adjacent to the area of Mylopotamos, which will be the focus of our interest on this visit to the island.
We start for Mylopotamos in a southerly direction. 3.5km later we turn right (west). The road is piney and narrow and leads us in 3′ to the small settlement of Araion. Several houses are old, with a lot of wear and tear, but also shop fronts, for some merchants or romantics.
According to Emm. Calligeros, judging by the type and architecture of the houses, the village must be very old, which is supported by the existence of two churches of the 13th century, proving early settlement in the area. One of these two temples, Agios Petros, we set out to discover.
From the main road of the village we turn south (left) following the relevant sign. A narrow concrete road ends after 600 meters in front of the Byzantine church of Agios Petros. It is built at an altitude of 340 metres. Opposite to the southwest dominates the bare peak of the Mermigaris mountain, which at 506 metres is the highest of Kythera.
The monument exudes all the glory of its Byzantine past. The architectural type is Cruciform inscribed with a dome. The octagonal dome and the successive tiled roofs give the church plasticity and grace. The original covering of the roofs was, of course, with slabs, which, after restoration by the Archaeological Service, have been replaced with modern tiles. The masonry consists of semi-worked stones with bricks in the horizontal joints. Larger chipped stones have been used as cornerstones. The monument is of course locked. But we can appreciate the quality of the frescoes from the excellent photographs included in the very important book of the Academy of Athens on the Byzantine frescoes of Kythera.
Near Araios and specifically in the place Spastitiras there is another temple, also built in the 13thth century. It is the church of Agios Theodoros, one-roomed, arched, with masonry of elaborate angular stones. Crossing a nice pine forest, we reach after one kilometer the settlement of Mylopotamos. Here large plane trees, eucalyptus and poplars dominate. It is obvious that water has a dominant presence in the place.
According to information that the writer-journalist Emm. Calligeros, the history of Mylopotamos seems to go back in time. This village, with the same name, and some of its settlements, are mentioned in official documents from the beginning of the 14thth century. Its foundation, therefore, must be placed much earlier, probably in the 12th century, when we have the beginnings of the establishment of many organized settlements on the island. Also, according to a few findings recently found in the church of St. Peter, the area must have been inhabited in antiquity as well. The present settlement of Milopotamos was named after the watermills of the verdant gully, which is full of small waterfalls. More than 20 watermills are mentioned, which significantly strengthened the economy of the village from the 18thth century until the middle of the 20thth century.
The settlements of Mylopotamos mentioned from the 14thth century are Mylopotamos itself, Kalyvia and Mesochorio. Also the old and still inhabited settlements of Kato Chora and Piso Piso Pigadi. Two other settlements of Mylopotamos, Araioi and Riza, although old, are not mentioned in documents before the 16th century. What is interesting is that one of the oldest mentioned families of Mylopotamos, the Stratigos family, has been living in the area from the early 14th century until today! (The surname Stratagio is known from Byzantine times and comes from the baptismal Stratigios and Stratigis, which are Cretan surnames professionally and declaratively. (Emm. Kalligeros, “Kythiraika Eponyms).
In the middle of the 18thth century the migration from Mylopotamos to Smyrna began. There we later find hundreds of families of Mylopotamites, who excelled in many professions. In Smyrna, at the end of the 19thth century and until the disaster of 1922, the Mylopotamians completely control its shipping and emerge as skilled seafarers.
The abandonment of the beautiful and densely populated village begins in the interwar period and ends a few years after the Occupation. Then whole districts are deserted, as they are abandoned by their inhabitants who leave for America, Australia and Athens. In recent years, however, there has been a slight trend towards a return and many of the abandoned houses are being repaired and are home to descendants of the families who built them or new friends of the village.
Such an imposing neoclassical house of the 19thth century can be found in the centre of the village. Today it houses the café-restaurant “PLATANOS”, a popular hangout for locals and foreigners from the morning hours until the night. The summer tables in the shade of the plane trees offer us moments of relaxation and coolness. The interior is also interesting, with the colored wooden ceiling and the old photographs on the walls.
Several locals, mostly retired people, enjoy morning coffee and a chat. They joke, laugh. It’s nice to start the day in an idyllic and peaceful environment. An event so simple but so rare for the inhabitants of the urban centres of Greece.
MYLOPOTAMOS STREAM
PARADISE IS HERE
It is very pleasant to stop at PLATANOS, it could have been extended for a long time. The cool shade, however, as well as the sound of the water flowing in the gully, increase our desire to get to know the Mylopotamos Stream.
A few hundred meters from the northern exit of the village, and just before the cemeteries, we find a wooden sign to Milopotamos. A few metres further on, a lane ends in front of a farmhouse. Next to it the path starts, from an altitude of 275 metres. It is downhill and narrow, with occasional steps and appearances of an old cobbled street. Jungle conditions prevail on the opposite slope. The vegetation is so varied and dense that some of the facilities of the Neromillos Filippi are barely visible, which after its exemplary restoration is one of the most important sights of Milopotamos.
In the meantime, our path develops between roses and cypresses, holly and maple trees. Now and then the dense branches form natural arches, which offer us very pleasant shade and coolness.
–Our first few kilometres on the island yesterday were barren and dry, I tell Anna. It was impossible to imagine the existence of a landscape like this.
The sound of the water gets louder. Very quickly we reach the stream. The altitude here is 220 metres. Between reeds and plane trees the stream flows with a rich flow. On July 7 it is amazing how so much water still flows. The phenomenon is almost inexplicable when one takes into account that the Mermigari above the Mylopotamos is just over 500 metres in height.
A little further up is one of the 22 old watermills that once flourished in the area. It is built with heavy masonry and its entrance bears carved stone pillars. Above the arch of the entrance, the date 1899 can be seen. The house is small in size, has a vaulted ceiling and a rough cobbled floor. From here we can also see the path leading uphill to the Mill of Philippi.
We continue our route on a narrow, smooth path, with a stone parapet and a retaining wall on the steep slope. Maple and myrtle trees are interspersed in the dense vegetation. Many are in bloom with their characteristic all-white flowers. The atmosphere is fragrant with their ethereal scent.
A branch of the path descends steeply towards the riverbed. We decide to follow it. 20 metres down we congratulate ourselves on our decision. Between dense grills and myrtle, sycamore and maple trees, a pond of greenish-blue water is revealed. It is narrow, with a length of at least 8 meters and a depth that must be more than 2 meters. Small, successive waterfalls create a unique composition of sounds.
We watch fascinated by the perpetual movement of the water, which creates one of the most unexpected images in this stream of Kythera, in the middle of summer.
As we get back on the path, a mill in advanced state of disrepair appears. We descend down a winding cobbled path. A little further down reveals another mill, also in ruins. Many fig trees with dense foliage hide the mill bed from our view. We enter their shade too, and soon afterwards into a more solid shadow. We are in the depths of the galleries of a mill, crossed by the cobbled road. It is the mill of Peter General, one of the descendants of the long-standing family of Kythera. Fireplace, vaulted roofs, cavities in the stone walls for various objects, small windows reminiscent of battlements. We have the feeling that we are living for a while in another era.
Sunlight brings us back to reality. We cross the riverbed, find the path again on the opposite bank. A white-fronted goose swims with stately calm in the water, unaffected by our presence.
We pass a small uphill with holly and cedar trees. Immediately afterwards the path forks. The signpost leads us downhill to the right. In half a minute we come across a stone bridge and a two-storey mill, an imposing building. Under a large laurel tree the first oleander appears, a bright splash of colour in the hitherto green dominance of the gorge.
The trail continues to give us surprises: two opposite water mills, a pond with a small waterfall and then a larger pond with an even bigger waterfall. With its perpetual presence over the centuries, the water has carved and smoothed the solid rock and left a permanent imprint of the hollow trace of its flow. We treat ourselves to a satisfying respite, right next to the highest point of the waterfall. We have already completed 2 hours in the canyon, with a clear walking time of just under 20 minutes. We feel an integral part of this paradise. With great reluctance we start the trail again. But which has not yet revealed its last secrets. We step out into the sun and the heat. We feel the difference in an instant, but only for a short time. A branch of the trail descends to the right and passes over a second bridge. A few dozen yards further on our eyes behold the perfect picture: the familiar pond with the great waterfall, which, as we now see it in elevation, turns out to be double. The access to it is not difficult; we reach it in a minute. This time it is impossible to resist the irresistible charm of the crystal clear water.
–This is the unpredictable Kythera, says Anna.
We come out of the pond only when our skin starts to react to the low temperature of the water. We don’t know what else the place has in store for us. We’re learning very quickly. After the trail climbs uphill for a while, it finds its way back to the bed. Two ruined water mills, oleanders and fig trees, a circular pond with a small waterfall and greenish water. This is where the biggest surprise awaits us. The water is stagnant. Instead of continuing brisk and clear, quite suddenly the flow is interrupted. The canyon bed continues, of course, but it’s narrow. Clearly, the visible flow of water continues underground, in an unseen path under the lake. Later we learn that the water of Mylopotamos makes its appearance, in a much smaller quantity, a few kilometers to the north-northwest, in the gorge of Panagia Orfanis.
We sit for a while under the cavity of a rock with plant fossils. Here the elevation is 150 meters, 125 lower than the trailhead. At a leisurely pace we don’t need more than 25‘, but the midday heat is stifling; we often long for the moments we lived in the pond just a few hours ago.
IN THE WATERFALL OF THE KILLER AND IN THE PHILIPPINE’S SPINE
Those who cannot or do not want to follow the path of the water mills have the alternative possibility to enjoy the presence of water and even in moments of supreme charm. This is guaranteed by the Fonissa Waterfall, which Kalligeros considers “one of the most impressive landscapes of Kythera“. This is not an exaggeration at all. Its water falls from a height of at least 15 metres, with a flow so ethereal that it looks like a gossamer veil. At the foot of the waterfall a pond of equal beauty is formed. Foreigners of various nationalities photograph this amazing creation of Kythera’s nature, some even do not hesitate to dive into the crystal clear waters. All around, the landscape is of high natural beauty with a watermill, plane trees and incredibly tall coves and a path that connects to the gorge of the water mills. Access to the waterfall is very easy and relaxing from various parts of the village.
Signs from the center of Mylopotamos direct us to the water mill of “Filippi”. A dirt road of a few hundred meters, steps and a paved alley and… somewhere there begins the coalescence of the paradise of nature with the work of man.
Philippas Zervos took over the water mill of the Karydis family about 12 years ago. In that time, armed with the magic wand of patience, skill and taste, he transformed the rhumans into what we admire today.
-Good morning, how many species of trees, plants and flowers does this paradise contain?
–You surprise me, replies Philip, I can’t answer so suddenly. But if you are patient, I can list them one by one.
-Let’s hear some.
– So there you have it. There are 300-year-old walnut trees here, I didn’t plant them. Muscovy, june and plum trees, peach and five kinds of mulberry trees, lemon, orange and tangerine trees, banana, hazelnut, carob and pear trees, five kinds of fig and pomegranate trees, almond trees and vines with the white variety “eagle’s nest”, which climbs high up in the plane trees. There are more than 10 banana trees; one of them, brought from Asia Minor, has been in the same place since 1930 and produces bananas every year. In addition to the fruit trees, there are many wild trees, shrubs and 17 species of aromatic plants. The flowers are many, I can’t remember all the names anymore. But come and have a cup of coffee.
We go to the small living room of the mill with the fireplace and the seasonal utensils, ice bucket, lantern, saucer, coffee roaster. Next to it is the storage room with the old barrels, sieves and the balance. Next to it the water mill with the “bush“, the water tank, which gives power to the wing and millstone. Here the millstones are small, up to 80 cm in diameter. Their pieces came by boat, mainly from Milos. They were then carved and assembled in Mylopotamos. The thickness of the stone was originally around 20 cm, but with years of use it became thicker and thicker.
Philip opens a bag with the miller’s iron tools and among them those for “cutting” the stone.
–What was the cutting of the stone?Anna asks.
-It was the scratching, the scratching of the surface of the stone, which after a few days became smooth and did not grind well.
-And, when was the cut?
-Once a week, usually on Monday. When the surface of the stone was grinded, of course, the stone gave off “burrs”, i.e. grains, which were mixed with the flour during the first grinding (after cutting). This flour was unsuitable for use by humans, was used for chickens, and constituted ‘gruel’, i.e. damage to the miller. He usually took care to make up for it by stealing some of the dough from the customers.
-Was the water of Mylopotamos sufficient for the Mills?
-Yes, the water is continuous, except in cases of prolonged drought, such as the summer of 2000. Then the riverbed dried up completely.
We try to think of waterless ponds and waterfalls. It would be a completely nightmarish scenario.
On the floor we are drawn to a solid piece of stone, roughly rectangular in shape but with a slightly curved surface.
–This was the stone for the “xinochondro“, explains Philippas. It was used to break the wheat into coarse pieces, not to grind it. I’d say it was a primitive form of mill, replaced by churning mills and these in turn by watermills.
Before we say goodbye to Philippa, we take an overall look at what he has done: the old buildings with their brilliant renovation, the landscaping of the open spaces with trees, bushes, the vegetable garden, the countless flowers. A visit to the ‘Filippi’s Mill’ would be very beneficial and instructive for individuals and institutions alike.
“DOWN UNDER”
AUTHENTIC MEDIEVAL EAR
Less than a kilometer separates Mylopotamos from the medieval settlement of Kato Chora, which is surrounded by a Venetian castle. It was built in the early 16thth century, probably the castle, both to protect the village and to guard the western coast of Kythera. There is even mention of the settlement of 80 families of refugees from Crete and Cyprus, who were assigned to guard it.
We leave the car in the outdoor parking area and continue on foot. The narrow road crosses the part of the settlement outside the castle, which has remarkable architectural features: traditional houses with stone arches, stone pilasters on windows and doors, wood-burning ovens, small iron-barred windows, absence of balconies.
In the centre of Kato Chora is the small square, almost always with parked cars. One of the schools built during the English rule is preserved here. Next to it is the entrance to the castle. At the top of the gate stands a relief of the Lion of St. Mark, a symbol of Venetian rule.
As we enter the interior we immediately feel our “time transfer”, many centuries ago. Strong clay masonry walls, arches and external staircases, ground floor spaces of limited dimensions, very cool, dilapidated walls, absence of habitation and absolute silence. We are impressed by the dense construction of the houses, the excellent use of the smallest available surface.
The area of the castle is almost flat, at an altitude of 240-250 meters. Our movements are made on a labyrinthine yet admirable network of dirt roads. Apart from the main arteries, which are also earthen, with a width of almost 3 metres, all the other alleys are between 1.30 and 1.80 metres wide. Some of the secondary alleys are barely more than 50 cm wide. The road surface is spotless, with no stones, grass or rubbish. All are also bordered by manicured dry stone walls, with heights starting at one metre.
With these paths we are taken to every point of the castle, up to the boundaries of the outer fortifications. Mostly, however, we pass in front of all the churches, Byzantine and post-Byzantine, which are numerous and important. They are the Panagia Mesosporitissa, the Prophitis Elias, the Agios Athanasios, the Agios Ioannis the Theologian, the Agios. Anargyrios, Agios Nikolaos, Agios Pantes, Honorable John the Baptist (of 1518), Agios Demetrios (late 15th century).
The fortification of the castle, in some parts, is preserved at a considerable height and has a length of several tens of meters. In other places the fortification has been taken over by nature, with inaccessible, vertical cliffs. Some parts of the wall consist of massive outer walls of churches and houses, a familiar form of fortification in the Kastropolitia of Anavatos in Chios.
Vassilis Lourantos, guardian of Byzantine monuments of Kythera, opens to us the church of Agios Athanasios. The church is one-roomed, with a vaulted roof and superbly preserved frescoes. It is unpretentious and the iconostasis is wooden and simple, but with a unique peculiarity: Christ is depicted on a column rather than on the Cross.
AT THE BEACH OF LIMNION AND THE CAVE OF AGIAS-SOFIA
After Kato Chora the road continues and ends at Limniona beach, one of the westernmost points of the Kythera coastline. We first move to the northwestern slopes of Mermigari, with lush vegetation and views of Kato Chora. Later, the terrain becomes barren and dry, with burnt slopes, from which the blackened trunks of cypress trees protrude sadly. Low cliffs are revealed.
At 2.9 km from the square of Mylopotamos a fork leads right to the Cave of Agia Sophia. We continue left towards Limniona, passing over the beach of Agios Pelagia with the homonymous old chapel. The Xivouni, barren and rocky, rises steeply high. We are already descending towards Limnionas, the road narrowing further.
A beautiful valley with olive groves, the bay and the few houses of Limniona are revealed. Reaching the small beach we are 7.4 km. from Milopotamos.
A small café, a few large tamarisks, five or six fishing boats and an equal number of houses, caravans and cars with foreigners reading or swimming. Above the shore is the chapel of Agios Nikolaos. On the sandy beach the waves of the mainland break. It is the only weather to find the narrow bay of Limniona. As the sun sets, Greek coffee is served on small handmade tables, boards attached to pieces of thick tamarisk logs. The familiar voice of Stelios Kazantzidis is added to the sound of the waves. From inside the cafe, notes of old, authentic folk songs that we haven’t heard in years escape.
–You must really love Stelios, I say to the shopkeeper.
A former aircraft engineer, Nikolas General, with a father from Smyrna, has found a hangar in this remote place of Kythera. Here there is no light and no cell phone. The required energy is provided by the oil generator. The well is again by the sea, its water is fresh.
–It’s not even good for washing dishes, says Nicholas.
The interior of the small café is picturesque. Among the various objects, a few wooden boats stand out, genuine shit, made by a captain.
–He is a devotee of the sea, Nicholas says, his name is Antonis Veronis.
Nicholas opens this shop every winter and every winter. Not for reasons of livelihood, of course. What customer would come in winter in this desert! I watch him, as he gazes at the sea, motionless, with a steady gaze. I don’t ask, but I guess what it is that draws him to the Limnion.
-Can I buy you a couple of chips?
-Buy Nicola. And good riddance to your den in winter.
The largest and most impressive cave of Kythera is the Cave of Aghios Sophia. Many decades ago it was explored and mapped by the legendary pair of caveologists, Ioannis and Anna Petrochilou. According to our information, these days the cave is closed. After marathon searches and miles we manage to obtain the key. Delighted with our success we head towards Kato Chora and the cave. From the small parking area, with a paved path we descend in 3 minutes to the entrance of the cave. The cave is not closed but wide open, much to our surprise. We remain with the key unused in our hand. Two couples of Italians, who have already visited the cave, are sitting in the gazebo and looking out over the sea.
–Yes, we are told, we found the door open.
With the 4 flashlights, with which a kind resident of Mylopotamos took care to equip us, we take our turn to enter. The surprises start early. 10 meters after entering the cave we meet the western wall with the gate of the temple of Agios Sophia. We initially think it is the chancel, but it is actually the west wall of the temple, on which fixing and crack repair work was carried out by the Archaeological Service in 1966. The fresco decoration on the wall is in good condition, with minor damage in places due to humidity. Conservation work was carried out in 1966 and 1981. Looking closely at the details of the frescoes, we cannot hide our admiration for the painter Theodore. His name is preserved in a miniature inscription and it is one of the few instances in Kythera where the painter is mentioned. A few metres further in, in a natural cavity of the cave, is the whitewashed sanctuary with numerous engravings, one of which dates back to 1875.
Continuing our penetration of the cave, we come across a pond to the right of the temple, created by the drops still dripping from the roof. A corridor of about 30 meters, with a smooth and reliable floor, leads us to a room of quite large dimensions, decorated with columns, stalagmites of many shapes, stalactites with great wear and tear, but also rare stalagmite formations, strongly reminiscent of fried eggs. The drip continues uninterrupted, which shows the ‘health’ of the cave. At several points on the walls of the chamber, tunnels with orifices of various dimensions are formed. Some of them are two or three metres deep, while others penetrate into the depths of the limestone mass and are dark, with unseen and probably very interesting routes.
DISCOVERING THE “ROOTS”
The Rizes or Riza (according to the locals) is a small settlement on the slopes of Mermigari, which has been almost abandoned. We exit south of Mylopotamos and very quickly come across a dirt road heading towards the mountain. At that moment a LADA NIVA is coming down.
-Morning. Is this the way to the Roots?
-Sure. And if you like, I can show you around my place.
With Giannis Zervos we arrive after a kilometer of rough dirt road in Rizes. From an altitude of 380 meters the village overlooks the sea and a large part of Kythera. On the hilltops we find the church of Agios Georgios, built by the Zervon family in the year APSNE (1755). According to Emm. Calligeros (KYTHIRAIC NAMES), the surname Zervos has had a continuous presence in Kythera since the 16th century. Etymologically derived from the epithet “Zervos“, meaning the left-handed or the one on the left, it was in use as early as Byzantine times. In contracts of 1565 the connection of this family with Mylopotamos is documented, and in the 18th century the Zervos were all recorded in Mylopotamos. With the dispersal of the Kytherians, the Zervoi were found in the USA, Australia and Athens.
–The three Zervon families were the last inhabitants to leave Riza, says John, at the end of the 1960s. I had left by 1963 for Athens.
Above the church there is a complex with many ruined houses of the Zerves. Heavy masonry with arches, built cylindrical columns, five water wells and olive trees on the family estate. John remembers one detail very vividly.
-Oil used to be of great value. In the 1950s, when the octaves still existed, an ounce of oil was equivalent in value to an ounce of honey. Today honey is worth 20 euros and oil has dropped to 2.
The only permanent residents of Riza are a couple, a Greek and a Dutch woman. Their house at the beginning of the village is large and neat, with a photovoltaic unit and two small wind turbines that spin in the wind like crazy. Their perpetual motion symbolizes in our eyes the continuation of life in the village abandoned by its old inhabitants.
IN THE WILD CHARM OF THE “REED”
The old man in Mylopotamos weighs Anna and 7-year-old Athena with his eyes and then decides, “It’s hard to get there. The last bit is a cliff.”. Our detailed map, by the way, uses the “Climbing Field” symbol on the beach “Kalami“.
-Is it that hard?
–I say so, the man concludes, shrugging his shoulders.
Afternoon time. After the cemeteries there is a dirt road and a very narrow, downhill cement road. The road later becomes tarmac with bends, overlooking the sea and mountain slopes. It could be an idyllic route, but it is, however, utterly depressing. Extensive old fires and a recent one, just 10 days ago, on the slope of the mountain “Krotteria“, have transformed the luscious landscape of Kythera into “Ollo Black Ridge“.
We cross a small, green gorge and reach Panagia Orfani, 4 km from the settlement of Mylopotamos.
15:00‘. A dirt road begins, which in 5 minutes continues as a trail. We are literally crossing scorched earth. The dirt is black and the atmosphere is stifling.
15:15′. Finish the trail, begin relatively gentle rappel, with the last 5-6 meters supported by a rope. Next is the pebbly beach of Kalamios, which is actually the narrow exit to the sea of the wild gorge of Panagia Orfanis. Two young couples are the only visitors to Kalamios, with a few more arriving later. The vertical rocks next to the beach offer us a shady place. A cool gust of wind blows incessantly, creating spectacular waves that crash against the shore. At just 3-4 meters the water deepens sharply. They are clear turquoise in colour and the temperature is wonderfully cool. Swimming in this magnificent swell is a unique experience.
In the evening on the veranda Athena shows me her notebook, where, among other things, she says: “Kalami beach is a very beautiful beach. Its waters are very deep. It is turquoise in colour. Kalami beach had very, very big waves. To get there you have to do a rappelling. Climbing is very tiring“.
EPILOGUE
No matter how many extra days we had at our disposal, it would still be too few for Kythera. The island is full of Byzantine monuments and historical sites, traditional settlements, special landscapes and exotic beaches. Excellent cuisine, picturesque corners, hospitality and culture at a high level. We felt a pleasant familiarity in Kythera. As if we had known the place and the people for years. Ultimately this is perhaps the most important thing.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
-Emm. P. Kalligeros, “SYNOPTICAL HISTORY OF THE CYTHERS”, 4thedition, Kytheraika Publications, ATHENS 2008.
-Emm. P. Kalligeros, “Kytheraika Eponyms”, 2nd edition, Kythiraika Society of Kytheraikoon Meleton, ATHENS 2006.
-Emm. P. Kalligeros, “KYTHIRA, Historical and Tourist Guide, published by “KYTHIRAIKA”.
-M. Hatzidakis – I. Bitha, “INDEX of Byzantine wall paintings of Kythira”, ed. ACADEMY OF ATHENS 1997.
-HELLENIC TRADITIONAL ARCHITECTURE, published by “Melissa”.
-Frank van Weerde, “Walking in Kythera”, 2005
THANKS
We thank those residents of Kythera who have helped us in our work in various ways and in particular Giannis Zervos, Vassilis Louranto, Filippas Zervos, Nicolas Strategos.
We are especially grateful to the author and journalist, director of “Kythiraikaiko”, Emmanuel Kalligeros, for his willingness to contribute with his text and his books to our article about Kythera.
OBSERVATIONS
- MAP. We consider the map of the company TERRAIN by Stefanos Psimenos as an indispensable aid for the visitor. With a scale of 1:35,000 and resistant to abuse, it is the most detailed and complete map available for Kythera.
- BIBLIOGRAPHY. For those who wish a more thorough knowledge of the island, we warmly recommend the three books by Emmanouil Kalligeros, mentioned in the bibliography. (tel. Author: 210-9827436 και 27360-31109).
His book especially on the Kytherian names is a voluminous work of 800 pages, completed after many years of long-lasting research on the historical, geographical and linguistic approach of Kythera. The search for the origins and the long route of the Byzantine and Medieval Kytheraic surnames is at the same time an unexpected reservoir of information on a multitude of unknown and fascinating facts about Kythera.